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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. i have a vintage trench watch movements, i cleaned an oiled the movement reassembled it. the hair spring and balance are perfect with good shakes when installed. but for some reason i can only get it to tick for a few seconds then it stops, then if i try to get it to spin with an air puffer it banks to the left then stops. i played with the banking pins a bit and did not get any good results. the lock on the pallet jewels look fine too. mainspring is new and the fork banks left to right perfect when balance is not installed. its not over banking since the roller jewel is not slipping from the fork, its under banking. the left banking pin was already bent to the outside. pushing the pins in did not allow escapement lock. so Iam thinking the right banking pin needs to be spread out. because when balance started to move it looks as if the pallet is not banking off the right pin, then it just rests on the right every time it stops. only other thing i can think off is adjust the roller. any ideas or suggestions?
  2. sorry i meant setting lever pin, not clutch lever.
  3. hello WRT, I have a vintage ww1 trench watch. It is a doctor/nurse watch with center seconds. These types were very rare during this period and i believe only two manufacturers produced the movements. I believe the one i have is a Gallet have no clue the caliber since i cant find any info on these movements. the watch did not come with a stem and crown. I have 4 different stems that fit into the watch perfectly both in size and length. but none of the slots for the setting lever pin line up therefore stem can always be pulled out and wont set the time. not sure what the square part of the stem is actuall called but it seems like its too long and the end closest to the crown which has the lip that seats against the winding pinion is too far out. These stems came from other trench watches of the same ligne size but not the same movement. I have tons of bestfit swiss stem assortments and they are all the same with the square winding part being too long for the setting lever pin. The chances of me finding a parts movement are slim to none so does anyone have suggestions on how to fit a new one. i tried machines some of them but it just doesnt work. i dont have a lathe.
  4. yes that is usually what i do i disassemble clean, inspect, oil, then reassemble and it works fine, just wondered why that happens but now it makes sense. thanks
  5. i studied this quite extensively since i use to have cancer and received radiation treatments, and i work on vintage military watches which always contain radium. Radium can not be absorbed through the skin so touching is not much of a risk as long as you are not licking your fingers or picking your nose after handling a radium dial. but there are two ways to absorb radiation from lume. 1: Ingestion- through this process 80% flushes out from digestion. 20% gets absorbed into the blood and is distributed to organs and eventually will metabolize in the bones like calcium. It will then break down over a period of months in the form of both alpha and beta. 2: Inhalation- 100% absorbed through the lungs then 20% broken down through liver. 80% will metabolize in bone. it will still break down the same way but will take longer because more has been absorbed. so contrary to popular belief radium will not stay in the body forever, therefor limiting how much and how often you are exposed to it will determine if you are at risk. the story of the radium girls. these women who would sharpen their paint brushes laced with radium with their lips to keep the tips sharp for luming watch dials ingest a whole lot of hot radium per day. at least 100-200 dials per day, then they started realizing that it would glow so they thought it would be cool to use it as make up. and not all of these women ended up with cancer. so short answer is a definite NO! do not worry. just use gloves and a mask if you feel like you want to be careful. and DONT lick the dial LOL
  6. OK i have encountered this problem a lot esp in older movements. Sometime it seems like the mainspring is wound tight and/or the mainspring wont turn anymore and the watch does not run. but when i turn the the crown and hold pressure so the ratchet wheel doesnt rest back into the click the watch runs, but when i let go and the click seats back into ratchet wheel the watch stops. its almost as if there is reverse pressure on the train making it stop when the ratchet is rested and by turning it it releases the pressure and allows the train to run. normally i just unwind the spring and then rewind it and watch starts to tick and from there i will just disassemble the movement service the mainspring and barrel, but i would like to know why this happens it is my understanding that mainsprings are designed to slip.
  7. i know some timex watches can be serviced. i know this because i have serviced them.
  8. Hello i watches the video on here about how to replace jewels. I guess i need to get a set of jewel opener and closers but i have a K&D staking set which has the reamer holder and the pushers. but it does not have the jeweling attachment. I have 2 questions 1. do i need to get the jeweling attachment or can i just push them in by hand, i noticed they do have handheld jewel pushers. or can i get a seitz jeweling base but will it work with the K&D reamers? 2. Where can i buy jewels? i usually work on very old watches from 1910-150 i was going to get a vintage assortment but i learned that those assortments never have what i need since most of them are for 10L size or less. I work on trench watches which are usually 11.5L-13L. 3. what is the difference between reamers and pushers? and how do i tell the difference between them?
  9. i like the 62mas reissue also the marine master reissue as well
  10. seiko fan i take it. i just need a 6138 panda and a 62mas to complete it
  11. i have a working movement for this watch
  12. resetting the stone requires you to use a bluing pan. a small metal pan which is put under a flame ( a candle or alcohol lamp) and heat just enough to soften the shellac then you must remove it quickly from the flame. reset the stones in the pan and once stones are reset you have to let it cool off slowly. this can be a pain esp knowing when shellac is soft so usually i take a tiny piece of shellac and place it in the pan as a reference to know when it is ready.
  13. just make sure date ring is rated for whatever position you are using for example (date at 3) or you have to get a new date jumper
  14. no sign of pig years. i bent the balance cock a bit and i got it running but may have done it a wee bit too much for now it stops occasionally. i may have to adjust it a bit higher with a shim. at least now i dont have to remove the balance wheel again, because main that is the one thing i hate doing
  15. https://www.esslinger.com/watch-repair-trays-with-locking-cover/ storage trays with locking covers are excellent for storing a disassembled movement
  16. i use an ultrasonic not the best but does the job. i know a lot of watchmakers who dont even use ultrasonic, they use pthwood, pegwood, watch paper brushes etc. but i use both methods if you dont have the greatest ultrasonic then you should not use it as your only source of cleaning....What i do is this. i have 2 jars one for first clean and one for second clean. these are small glass jars big enough just to fit a movement. I put lighter fluid in each jar and i also fill the ultrasonic with enough water to be slightly higher then the lighter fluid level in the jar. this will not let the glass break. i take apart movement and place them in jar #1 clean then repeat for jar #2. when they are out i dry them with a puffer or dust off can. lighter fluid evaporates very quickly so no need for hair dryer. i ream all pivot holes with pegwood then follow through with a round pivot broach (do not use this method for jewels since it could case them to crack) i rub all parts with watch paper and i brush all the wheels and spindles. I also push and twist all pivots in pithwood. i oil the movement then reassemble, then i add a bit more oil on top of the pivot/jewel holes with pivot seated. and as far as balance assembly i do not use the ultrasonic - i use one dip. then i polish the pivots using a burnisher, i also polish the pivots of the escape wheel too. i use to use L&R but i dont like the fumes plus the cost. lighter fluid is basically naphtha and has been used for years to clean watches, plus its cheap and readily available at pretty much any store. it evaporates with no residue and does not require an alcohol rinse although its not bad if you do. i use it in small jars so there is no waste i get about 2-3 cleaning before i change the fluid. if you use it too much then you could get some residue on the movement.
  17. in my experience low amplitude is due to too much end shake and sometimes the cause of this is a flattened pivot. over the years grime mixes with old oil and turns into like a grinding paste which flattens out the pivot end. a healthy pivot end should have a domed or cone shaped tip not flat. the flat pivot causes more friction and yields a higher amplitude. this can be easily overlooked because a powerful microscope is needed to really see the shape of the pivot traditional eyeloops will not do the job. the pivot can be reshaped with a pivot polisher, jacot tool, and burnisher. setting jewel height may not fix the issue alone. BTW the pivot looks pretty flat in your video
  18. great just my luck. well iam gunna see if i can straighten the pivots and give them a polish if it doesnt work then luckily i have a spare wheel with a good staff. but the cock does need to be bent because the end shake was too much even when it was running
  19. ok so in my case i had the watch working a minute ago after adjust the endstones, but trying to push the crown back i dropped it like an idiot and now it no longer runs in the dial up position, it runs perfect dial down, slows a bit on the sides, then stops as soon as dial goes up. the wheel looks to have a little too much vertical wobble but doesnt seem to hit anything. so i dep think i have too much end shake but could i be looking at a bent pivot now too.
  20. hello all i have 2 questions about balance assemblies 1. How do you true a balance wheel, i have a caliper and i have seen videos on how to use them but none of them explain how to make the balance wheel true if you find that it is not. Iam guessing you use the caliper to do this but iam not sure.2. If you find that a balance wheel has too much end shake, or even too little how do you fix this. I read that for too little you can burnish the pivots but for too much what do you do? can you bend the cock a little bit to make a tighter fit? change the jewels? in DeCarle's book its explaines how to check end shakes but not how to compensate for them.
  21. Hello WRT! Happy to join this community. I joined so i can learn a bit more about horology and watchmaking. I will also lend a hand to anyone who i think i can help. I was a member on of another forum that was not very kind or helpful to the fellow hobbyist/enthusiast. I hope this environment is better gauged to helping people rather than putting them down for lack of knowledge or simply disregard your advice simply because you are not a professional although you actually know what you are talking about. I have been working on watches for 3 years now and although i dont claim to be a pro i do have an extensive understand on how watches work, how to diagnose problems, and how to fix them. My work has consisted of Overhauls, balance work, posing, regulating, movement swaps, mods, case refinishing and polishing, crystal and bezel changing, etc. MY main body of work revolves around seiko and ETA movements, military watches from WWII, and WWI trench watches. I am a big collector of PilMIl watches and seikos, esp trench watches. I vow to only give advice on situations that I have only experienced myself as a hobbyist, I do not speak of things I dont know about, and I will be courteous to my fellow WRT members. IF there are any concerns please let me know for i do not want to join the forum on the wrong foot.
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