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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. It literally doesn’t matter if he doesn’t want to except a return you can escalate the case to eBay. I’m telling you I sell Watches on ebay and you be surprised what these people can get away with when they buy a watch. I had a guy buy a watch drop it and then told me it didn’t work and ebay still made me accept the return. Just select “item doesnt meet description or photos” or “its counterfeit or fake” for reason for the return
  2. Def a fake there are many on eBay, ou will def get your money back just open a case against the seller
  3. Small size like that makes it a nurses watch and def. could have been recased since fahys was an American based watch case company, and I am not sure if they ever had any relation to rebberg, there is no documentation on that. But the montauk cases are nice since they have a wider more thicker bezel then most cases for the same size movement, def send pics, I am a huge collector of trench watches, mostly American but i have a few Swiss and I am pretty well versed with the early Swiss Ébauches movements.
  4. I’m sorry but I have never attacked anyone. In fact I can care less what you say I’m not the one going around quoting every single one of your posts. I guess I must have struck a nerve somewhere down the line no one else on here seems to have any issue with my posts. I don’t see any pictures of your work either and I’m sorry I don’t tend to take pictures while I’m working on a movement un less it’s one that I have never disassembled before. Self-professed Highground you Gotta be kidding me you are the most smug person I ever met and i dont even know you lol. I wish this forum had a way to block people. I caught your post that you just so happen to not quote me in where you’re attacking me for not spelling out the word replica. I think you have too much time on your hands and maybe just bored with life and need to troll forums for your own excitement, Good luck with that but this is the last time I’m going to respond i will not enable It any longer.
  5. Hard to tell i just know the balance cock is different from an eta, Then again it could’ve been a repair somewhere down the line but if the watch is fake then I’m pretty sure the movement is a clone. Makes a lot more sense to put a $50 move-in rather than a $300 movement in a replica.
  6. I have never seen an example of one of these earlier versions you speak of but if true then it should say ETA 2824 somewhere on the movement. Also the screws Are not in the same position and the etchings look suspect
  7. I think JDM meant to say practice not purchase and think he failed to realize that I did use the full euphemism “replica” in the post. I am sure you are smart enough to understand by reading my first post that you understand that i was telling you your watch is a rep oh sorry.....replica
  8. A great watchmaker on another forum said “ your tools, oils, and cleaning methods will reflect in your work regardless of skill.” So the affordable approach is not the best advice given, or if going to give it at least say it’s not your best option. Your last statement is ironic since you the one trolling all my posts with nonsensical responses with underlying hints of sarcasm.
  9. Naphtha is used all the time in ultrasonics with respect to watch servicing its found in many ultrasonic cleaning fluids esp L&R. The difference being that naphtha in L&R is a much higher grade than Naptha found at your local hardware store. It has a much higher vapor pressure making it safe to use in ultrasonic. You will not get this info from a Cosh sheet. This why it pays to get the stuff designed for actual watch cleaning rather than looking up cosh sheets and trying to play chemist with chemicals you don’t fully understand. I think if $50 or 36 euros is too big of and expense then i cant imagine what kind of tools you use for your repairs and servicing.
  10. Umm wow 2 liters is wayyyy too much, you would be going through cleaning fluid like water on a hot day. I use small mason or glass jars with lids, maybe 4-8oz tops. I have different sizes. Bigger jars for main plates bridges, and smaller for wheels arbors, and i use separate jar for the barrel since there tends to be lots of grease and old oils in those I don’t want it contaminating the fluids for the more important parts jars. I have 4 of each size so i can do a 3/1 or 2/2 clean/rinse ratio. I stop cleaning when fluid remains clear. So use smaller amounts with more cleanings, you get a quite a few cleanings from each jar. As the first jar gets dirty I dump or filter if i can then i make the final cleaning jar my new first cleaning jar. I also put little mesh parts basket inside the jars. Now when you do this you need to fill the ultrasonic up with water at a bite higher level than the fluid in the jars but not too high where they will float or bobble. Frequency is important but doesn’t have much to do with size it all depends on the quality of the ultrasonic. There are larger ones out there with high frequency but they are really not needed and are extremely expensive. Get smaller ultrasonic with high frequency at an affordable price. Jewelry ultrasonics are good for this. I use them to clean tattoo equipment as well which will easily remove old bunked up ink in the crevices of the tubes.
  11. I think the use of IPA is a bit frowned upon a bit too much but as said it is perfectly fine to use on certain movements according to manufacturers recommendation but i believe it should only be used in this instance. Not sure why that is maybe something to do with shellac shelf life for example i would never use ipa on vintage movements. if it doesn’t dissolve the shellac it softens it enough to mess up the pallet jewels positioning, thus messing up my lock and exit. Found this out the hard way years ago when started out with watch repair as a hobby, i used it on some older movements mostly pre-1960 and I couldn’t figure out why nothing worked after i cleaned and reassembled. Those days i was using the old ronsonol/ipa method. And came to find out that even after a quick rinse (5 minutes tops in ultrasonic) my pallet and roller jewels were coming loose. So in that case i would not use it on pallet or balance for any amount of time unless specified by manufacturer. Kinda sucks because it such a great product to use esp for hairsprings. Sometimes I am temped to just remove the HS just to dunk it in IPA.
  12. It’s rep. Screws on caseback are off and hammy’s didn’t advertise eta since the original is an eta base with their own twist on the balance and it has higher power reserve of 80hrs. So they would not advertise a movement that has a 38hr power reserve on their caseback. If it is a rep then you could guess the movement is also a clone even though the cock does not match the same as a clone or even an original 2824-2. I highly doubt they would use a $279 movement in a replica watch.
  13. Ok the montauk case is pretty rare due to its slightly larger size normally used with American movements. The original lume would have looked greenish but if was still there will def have a considerable amount of patina, so i would leave it as is. It’s not good to add new lume to a vintage dial. Could just be a rebberg trench which is still very rare and will Carry almost as much value as a signed Rolex rebberg.
  14. That looks like the timegrapher app. It’s garbage! Get a real timegrapher. But your beat error is way off I cant go off these results because of the app, but if this were a reading on an actual timegrapher i would say you need a service and a beat adjustment. There is no way your beat error would be .2MS with that reading.
  15. L&R Ultrasonic rinse. While you are at it get the cleaning fluid too. They are $50 for a gallon, they can be filtered and last you a long time, its not like your servicing 10-20 watches a day. One dip on the pallet and balance assembly if you don’t want to change your chemicals. Problem solved. Remember Solvents like naphtha will leave an oily residue, so getting a better cleanser will make your rinses more effective.
  16. the movement you have is very rare, i believe i see a W&D on there as well which if there is then this makes this a very early WW1 period ROLEX. Rolex purchased Aegler Rebberg movements during the war and the the dial will not have Rolex on it since Great Britain did not allow the names on dials from foreign manufacturers. You would see Rolex or W&D marked on the movement and/or caseback. This is a very rare sweep seconds model which were used in “doctors/Nurses” watches during the war hence the Red Cross on the dial. I would say if its 13 ligne/29.5mm its most likely for a doctor anything smaller than 11 Ligne its a nurses watch. There must have been lume on the dial at one point also a feature in the watches since there was poor lighting at night in the hospitals. Hard to date but it will have to be between 1910-1926. You can read more below. Normally you see UNICORN, RWC, ROLEX, or HANS WILSDORF & CO on the movement, but I know W&D was used a lot on the case backs. Either way Rolex or not you have a nice rare piece of early wristwatch history and if you don’t know what you are doing take it to a professional you will not find replacement parts if you loose or ruin anything crucial. https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/myrolexpage.php Also I don’t think mainspring is “OK” if you winded it fully and you need to add force to the crown which then transfers through the train making it run is a sure sign the mainspring is way too weak or is rubbing or getting stuck on the barrel lid, and a new one is needed. But a new MS is always needed with a service and esp one that is 100+ years old, god only knows the last time it was serviced.
  17. To measure the opening may take some skills since a caliper will not work. Maybe a round broach and then measuring the diameter of the spot on the broach. Then order a jewel that is bigger like the 1.40 because its always better to go bigger then broach as needed or use a jewel setting opener. Too small there is nothing you can do. You could get the 1.30 and use a jewel closer to spread the metal out a bit To set it in, but option 1 is better. in order to do this you will need a vintage jewel setter kit with openers and closers. If you don’t have one then only option is using a broach get a cutting and smoothing.
  18. Mark has a great video on this procedure. It’s easier to do if Hairspring was not attached but in this case if the balance came complete and is correct i would think the stud should be in the correct position, so you will have to make sure the roller jewel sits between the banking pins as perfectly in the middle as possible. You can adjust the position with the stud on top of the balance if needed.
  19. You need a pair of beading pliers like these they wont break the spring
  20. Jewelers files are a must have in watch repair but i really don’t think its needed in this case since the problem lies in the MS and not the arbor itself. The catch looks fine and I have never came across a slipping arbor in which the arbor was the culprit.
  21. Def a repair. Have seen this many times esp on old 7 jewel movements where someone added a jewel for the escape pivots or even the sub second wheel pivots. In this case the jewel was set In using a vintage tool set pictured below, this tool is used to remove and install jewels. Essentially they are openers and closers. The one half of the set (openers) spreads the metal out away from the jewel to allow for removal. The other half (closers) push the metal back over the jewel keeping it in place. This tool is especially used when adding a jewel that was not there in the first place and needing to use the metal of the bridge or plate to retain the jewel, rather than screws or setting. so in order to remove the cap jewel you will need to get one of these. You can lubricate this jewel by going from the bottom and using an auto oiler to insert the oil into the pivot hole deep enough to reach the cap, but if you don’t have one then you will have to use something thin enough to get in there and not make a mess which rodico alone wont be able to clean up, thus requiring you to re-clean and oil. I find that have a very small set of round smoothing broaches, like ,005-.015 work pretty well for this. You can essentially use them as an oiler, they hold oil pretty well. Not the best way to oil but when there is no other way you have to do the next best thing, its better than no oil esp on the escape wheel.
  22. Honestly best $80 bucks ever spent, all you need is one, the full set is unnecessary
  23. If you are using synthetic oils, oil the pivot jewel assembled, then oil the cap jewel unassembled then assemble it make sure you get it right the first time because then oil will smudge and smear, and then you have to redo the entire movement if you are stickler like me. Or while keeping cap jewel assembled but train unassembled you can go from the bottom end only with a Bergeon automatic oiler. That’s pretty much the purpose of auto oilers, inserting correct amount of oil into jewel holes. Takes a little practice to know the correct amount to dispense.
  24. That’s actually how i do it now, because i have seen marks videos and he oils the cap jewels then the pivots before assembly and if you don’t get the cap jewel in perfect the first time it smears and gets oils around the cock hole. I use the Bergeon automatic oilers for this and I don’t need a pin, i can see the bead form on the cap jewel with the microscope.
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