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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. ah ok watch paper i also heard you can use a dial washer.
  2. i believe this was the issue at first and i fixed it. but now balance stops on dial side up. come to think of it jrichard i noticed a coning at the bottom of the upper balance pivot, i know this is normal but this looked different and this was from the balance that was original to the movement the other balance looks better but still stops. Nuce joe as far as other movement goes that is very tight i lifted the cock a bit but did it wayyyy too much now the balance is all over the place, and laxy me tried to do it with balance installed and i think i bent the pivot, so thats one is finished it was one of those moments when you realize that you knew that was going happen before you did it but did it anyway and cant figure out why. also how do you shim a balance, never really tried it. what do you use? also i would never gouge the plate.
  3. "couple of hundreds of a millimeter" thats what drives me nuts how can you tell just by moving the balance with tweezers that it is the measurement of shakes you are getting? Pallet and roller jewels are good, and pivots look straight i even polished them on levin pivot polisher, bottom jewel looks good but iam thinking its the jewel on the balance cock it looks like it has a crack in it, as far as the other movement goes i didnt get to that one yet. i really need to invest in one of those lcd microscopes this 15x eye loop does no justice. well at this point i need a new balance for the other movement because i dont have a seitz kit and in order to replace these jewels i also need a jewel setting kit which they are go for 100+ on ebay and they are hard to come by complete since they are usually pre 1940. You have to spread the metal out to remove the jewel then close it back up. Jewel changing is something i have not gotten into yet, the equipment is expensive and normally i will just get another movement and swap and replace parts until i get one to work. another weird aspect of these old waltham/elgin movements is that on some grades even though same model the pallet fork will have the safety pin on the top sticking straight up, and i noticed on one movement it was bent down a bit probably from last guy trying to install it, and the roller jewel kept rubbing against it, but sadly not the case here
  4. yes i checked all this i finally got the pallet to snap back and forth and finally got it running but it stops immediately on dial up. i think there something with the jewels. as i said i have two of the same movements and on the one both balances are too tight and the other it just stops on dial up with both balances. i really hate escapement work, its so tedious and seems impossible to figure out the exact problem and a solid solution
  5. all correct but remember it the force of the mainspring which travels through the train up to the escape wheel then to the pallet which powers the balance although the balance keeps the watch running. i always like to think of the mainspring as the transmission and the balance as the motor. anyway i cranked the mainspring up even more and i finally got it to spin but it dies out quickly in certain positions i dont believe there is and end skake problem the blance spins very nice and straight when installed by itself. thinking maybe mainspring is too weak and needs to be changed anyone agree
  6. yes thats the one! yes you should hold reset button on all chronos
  7. ok here we go: i have two of the same exact movement, caliber and make, waltham 1907 6/0 size. iam having the same issue with both of them. i took them apart cleaned and oiled them. mainspring is good in both. when i put the pallet fork in and wind the watch, iam not getting the snapping back and forth action from the pallet. if i operate it manually it spins the escape wheel just fine. when i take it out the train unwinds and its very smooth and i even get the little wind back at the end so i knowwww its not a mainspring problem, and i swapped pallets and pallet cocks in every combo possible and iam getting the same result in both movements. The pallet jewels are fine no chips or loose jewels. I really dont get it, i have never had this issue. as i said if i operate the pallet lever with tweezers and move them back and forth the escape wheel turns, but the pallet will not snap by itself. what in the world could the issue be. The fact that its happening in both movements using different but same parts makes it even more of a mystery. any ideas????
  8. You cant do any harm really, but when you hold the button down while setting the chrono hand there is no need to press down too hard that may cause damage to the recording wheel hearts. Just hold it firmly but dont over do it. there is a hand setting press on ebay that is only $13 this helps keep the chrono hand steady while holding down the reset button. trying to hold down the reset button with one hand and then using other hand to grab tweezers, place the hand on the pinion, and then press it with a hand held press without making it move off zero can be tricky. the hand press helps with that, and is an overall good tool because even when putting hands on in a normal situation it will allow you to press hands down so they lay parallel with the dial.
  9. iam always holding my breath when working on watches, i feel like american sniper. lol
  10. boosting value can also be subjective because it all depends on who is buying. a completely refinished watch may bring in big money because there is someone out there who will pay the big bucks to get it. But most collectors like original. Original meaning the same parts on the watch from the day it was manufactured. I have seen some original watches that were not restored but remained in excellent condition, in some cases vintage watches being sold NOS, those watches bring in the big bucks. i guess all original in the best possible condition is what collectors look for.
  11. me personally i dont refinish vintage dials, esp those that served as military watches or purpose watches, like pre-moon speedmaster for example, some spend $2000+ to get theirs refinished from omega and i think thats a sin. Same as rolex, how many 1675 Gmts have sold for 5 figures with faded bezels no one would dare replace them even if it was NOS. I collect vintage war watches, ww1, ww2, vietnam. when i buy i want them too look like they survived a war. I have a friend who collects them as well and he refinished them with all original parts and sells them for $700 plus, they look like they are brand new. Some people like that i dont, it takes away from the watches history and it loses its character and uniqueness. I have ww1 waltham that belonged to a Captain who was a doctor in the 331st machine gune battalion. His name, rank, and unit is engraved on the back, its beat up and doesnt run, i dont care i left it the way it is, and i still paid $480 for it at an auction. however cleaning a dial i feel is a nice middle ground, clean it up wipe the dirt off, cool. but then again it is preference, ask yourself are you a collector or an admirer. If you are a collector leave it as is, if you are an admirer refinish it.
  12. Dumont #8 tweezers are advertised for pivot straightening. Can anyone attest to how well they work, and also how do you actually use them. I read you can also use these to straighten a bent hand. Just want to get some info since they cost about $80 new and been looking for a decent used pair.
  13. I found a complete seitz kit for less than $200 once on ebay was only missing one reamer, just no there are other things you may need esp for replacing jewels. 1: jewel setting tool set for opening and closing the surrounding metal hold a non pressure fitted jewel in place, and a jewel guage which are dam near impossible to find complete, or buy a new one from seitz which big $$$ Nuce i do the same thing and dont think its bad advice, i have seen other watchmakers do it as well, sometimes its even better than using a caliper, do you poise the wheels too? i usually only poise older watch BS's with the weights attached.
  14. you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750. also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers. as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.
  15. ok this may be a stupid question but, did you clean the movement before reassembling? if so how? the amplitude is on the lower end but still acceptable, i think you need to make adjustments to the etachron system since its your rates that are all over the place which means problem most likely lies in the high speed low torque area aka escapement and or balance assembly. The tools can be purchased from ofrei.com or esslinger.com. these tools are made specifically for the etachron studs and pins. there is many info on how to do this on this forum and youtube. i do nbot recommend chinese replacement they are not made with anykind of quality, yhou can actually see debris within the jewels from the factory! i would get a new eta if you can figure it out etachron tools http://www.tztoolshop.com/page212.html here is a good video
  16. if you are talking about the roller jewel then NO, this will not help if the safety roller is rubbing against the pallet safety pin and /or main plate.
  17. i remove the BW and spring complete, the stud doesnt hit anything except the cock but at this point your just checking end shakes so it does not matter much, you can always just slip the stud back intop the cock and just dont tighten the screw. i hate removing hairpsrings because you will have to reset the spring in beat, and if you loosen the collet too much your screwed unless you have that $200 bergeon collet tightener. congrats on removing spring did you make sure you mark the location of the stud? if not gunna have to reset watch in beat, WRT actually has a video on how to do this the easy way. it involves installing wheel and cock, but then laying the spring on top of the cock.
  18. i have seen this marking before since i work on old ww1 trench watches the cross is the "swiss federal cross" and indicates a patent its not a logo. the number under the cross would be the swiss patent number, sometimes you see "brevet" or "brev" next to the number. it looks like it can be gallet electa but usually those had patent dates on the opposite side of the movement. check out these links http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/whomademywatch.php http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movements.php
  19. i have to say its good advice but i wish i could see a video of what you are talking about
  20. no the pivots are fine. i threw it on a jacot and its was straight and nicely rounded at the top/
  21. ok update! after all this it was end shakes after all, i slightly lifted the balance cock and now it runs like a champ. i swear end shakes can be a funny thing to observe even with magnification esp when your talking about such tiny measurements, sometimes it looks fine but its not. usually i check this by added pressure on top of the balance jewel to see if it stops with slight pressure or doesnt with heavy pressure. in this case it did not stop right away with pressure so i assumed end shakes were good.
  22. ok update! i took out pallet and the escape wheel, the balance is acting the same, it does not swing free and it looks as if it banks to the left just like when pallet is installed, it seems like the safety roller is rubbing against the main plate, because if i turn it with finger it get to a point where the balance just vibrates and doesnt swing. pivots are straight and shakes are perfect so i dont know hoe to go about this, new staff is not an option here...cant push up jewel because then shakes will be too little, any ideas
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