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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. https://www.esslinger.com/isa-watch-movement-isa2330-103-quartz-movements/ New movement $15.95....quartz is not the easiest to work on esp if you don’t know what you are doing tools used on quartz movements are also very specific. So i suggest just a quick and easy movement swap. It’s the most basic thing you can learn if you are new to the hobby. Learn to remove stem, dial, and hands. Then re-assemble. You will need watchmaker non-magnetic screwdrivers/tweezers, hand puller, and hand setter.
  2. Lol i actually meant to say 5 seconds. Yea def. not 5 min in IPA. Hardware store grade naphtha leaves a residue, even the higher grade naphtha cleaners and rinses such as L&R leave a residue but much less. Just know this residue is not going to cause any issues with your service. But to help it needs to be dried very fast with heated air. As far as pro rinses L&R products only cost about $50-$60 per gallon. Which is not much compared to the $20 for lesser grade stuff. I have to say I never had any issues with sticking hairsprings with either form of naphtha, if you don’t wanna pay for one dip then i will suggest electrical contact cleaner, its dries fast and leaves no residue
  3. Well then remove crystal and get a domed crystal for replacement. GS Lo-Dome or Hi-Dome. Measure case with digital caliper and add .2mm to it. You can install crystal with brass Jaw type crystal remover.
  4. Just like the 3818B, type I, type II, and Hamilton GG-W-113 there is no way to remove movement without separating the split stem. So its a judgment call on your end. Is it worth the risk of damage? You haven’t worked with it before and you did say it ran so maybe leaving it as is would be your best choice. I have one in my collection its runs for about 7 hours and that’s good enough for me. These were made to be worn and thrown away but doesn’t mean they cant be serviced the movement is the same as type I only difference would be that its a 7 jewel movement.
  5. FYI W&D or Wilsdorf & Davis are the creators of rolex and all the other micro brands sold. W&D did not manufacture watches they just sold to retailers. The rolex brand was created by Wilsdorf & Davis in 1915 and was only used with Aegler Rebberg lever escapement movements both in 7 and 15 jewel. All others used cylinder escapement. You will aslo never see a signed dial since until 1926 watches in UK were not allowed to show the name of foreign retailers or manufacturers. But yes non of these micro brands should be considered a true rolex. It must have a Rebberg movement with rolex on ratchet wheel not dial. RWC Co. doesnt count. also you can by a cap jewel from ofrei.com with correct diameter you can always by a jewel setting tool and spread out the metal on balance cock to keep jewel in place i have other posts on this method.
  6. not sure but looks like there are grooves on left side for you to fit the "pry type" case back openers.
  7. i would not recommend using heat with that product, however i have done it before at a very low temp. You can clean everything in this manner except i would install the balance assembly to the main plate first. I could leave them in 5-10min per cycle.
  8. This feature is Unique to elgin movements, no other american pocket watch movements have this particular system.
  9. ok thanks for your replies, i will try and reach out. i found a few places 1 in UK 1 in US but they dont have a phone you can only contact through email and havent gotten a response.
  10. Hello i have a very rare 0s Waltham pocketwatch dial. It’s the bold Arabic red 12 dials which sells for upwards of $500 on eBay by itself, i have 2 in my collection but one i have has 2 cracks and needs a new sub second single sunk soldered on. I looking for suggestions if any qualified porcelain dial repairers based in the US. Preferably. I found a place in the UK does unbelievably amazing work and waiting on a response. I got this dial for only $35 so I don’t mind spending 2-300 usd for the repair. Anyone have suggestions I am open to people in UK as well but trying find someone US based.
  11. The amount have hassle it will be to make a new pinion will be far less stressful then getting a donor movement or part. I think anything can be repaired there really is no limits if you have the skill, but this is my opinion. I don’t know how readily available the parts are but i know this movement is the first and only bumper automatic for ladies watch according to ranfft. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Eterna_1034H so you may have to wait until you can find a cheaper donor because I don’t believe any other calibers will have the same wheel since this is the thinnest ever made by Eterna. i have few sitting in my bench waiting for the same situation.
  12. You can buy the entire movement from Esslinger.com for $15 which is pretty much why you wont find parts. Not worth the cost to sell or to replace when you can get an entirely new movement for such a low price.
  13. The American movements used flat pivots Swiss used concave pivots during the time. 559 guessing its somewhere in the mid-late 40s. The outer coil looks a little off to me did you check end/side shakes? From the pics the pivots seem fine but cant be too sure, they are not clear enough and would really need a higher magnification. When its running put finger pressure on the balance cock, with light pressure it should not stop the balance. If it does then end shakes is too small, if you press hard it should stop the balance if it doesn’t then you have too much side/end shakes.. This will tell you if any of the 2 balance staff pivots have issues, bent worn down too much etc. or even cracked balance jewels. You may be able to remedy with jewel pushing, adding spacers to balance cock, if you don’t have to know how to replace the staff. But a time trace would really be nice too.
  14. OK your watches are due for a service, your post was extremely stressful to read don’t take it the wrong way but your doing it all wrong. Shaking your hands, automatic watch winders and karate chops is not how you test how well your watch is winding and its power reserve. you can manually hand wind these movements, Starting with a full wind will give you more accurate results. both eta 2824 or sw200 is 28800 bph with a 38 hour power reserve. Any COSC needs to be within +— 3 sec per day. =- 5-7 sec per day for non cosc is acceptable in dial up and dial down positions. You will need a timegrapher to confirm this there are other ways but this is your best and most accurate option. The amplitude should be around 270 in DD/DU positions and a little less in 4 other positions. Then you have beat error. These are things you need to check before and after your service. If you never serviced a watch before please consider practice on a much cheaper movement, like a Vostok or something. I promise you will lose or screw something up and these aren’t cheap movements.
  15. I know they have a nice one on eBay for about $120. It’s works best if bolted to a bench. I bought one a while ago was unsure about the quality but its actually an amazing tool. I have a Bergeron now, and honestly i feel like I didn’t need to spend the $400 but i always like to have the best money can buy.
  16. I bought vintage one off eBay for $15
  17. Not in most Seikos i have worked on. Which is mostly their divers and chronos using Hardlex crystal or tension ringed plastic crystals. With out bezels and inner bezels or chapter rings. Not sure what model OP has but from what i have seen. The gasket sits around the crystal not under. Typically it goes gasket, crystal, then bezel. When the crystal is pressed it forces the gasket outwards between the outside of the crystal and the case. I have seen some with another gasket that sits where the bezel goes which i think is what the OP has but i would love to see a picture as well. If this is the case then extreme caution is needed and a hand held press is not gunna do the job. But what i do to help any kinks or pinching i put a light coat of silicone grease on the gasket.
  18. Rattling in the barrel? I mean i wish i could hear it for myself but i would associate that with either a broken or slipping mainspring, worn down arbor pivot? None the less i think it needs attention, but that’s not to say their may be another underlying issue somewhere in the train.
  19. Did you put the hairspring under high enough magnification to see if any of the coils are sticking as its vibrating? Is hairspring also centered over the pivot, one side of the coils should not expand/contract any wider/narrow than the opposite side. Maybe dull or misshapen balance pivot causing high friction, did you get a look at the balance staff under a microscope. Get the amplitude again, if its low then these could be your issues since everything else checks out according to your post.
  20. The one VW sent is it their other kinds besides seitz. hard to find complete without missing jewels, they also make a gauge that is the slide in type kinda like a mainspring gauge. It’s a metal plate with a slit in it and you take the pivot and slide it down till it stops and that will take you the pivot size and can gauge the jewel size needed. I have one but I don’t have it right now to send a picture.
  21. So guessing the seitz set didn’t come with the jeweled pivot sizer. These are hard to come by. I would say trying anything you can to get the correct measurement will work if you don’t have the right measuring device. But i would say you could also measure the pivot with a digital caliper and If you had the matching wheel to each jewel on parts movements you could compare the pivot sizes but you already removed them all. And I would check end and side shakes after your selected jewel is installed. A little more play is allowed on the train then the balance or escapement.
  22. Never been a fan of replicas because I don’t need to be a poser. Ill pay the 10k for the Rolex. But replicas are sold all the time and sold as replicas, there are sites dedicated to selling replica Rolex gmts and submariners, some of them are decent watches with good Swiss eta automatic movements. One can actually build himself a submariner for less than $200 with parts on eBay using aftermarket Rolex dial and hands and a Chinese eta “replica” or as we say clone.....as with anything aftermarket parts are always available. And we cant say a seagull is a counterfeit any less than we can say an NH35 is a counterfeit Seiko movement. The problem lies in the misrepresentation, not the replica itself.
  23. PayPal always trumps eBay decisions but it takes longer to get a refund - i think its 10 days, eBay is a bit quicker i would do eBay first you wont have any issues, but if so paypal will also work, i had a guy open an item not received case on eBay simply because he was all bent out of shape i sent a day late but he lost the case because it act arrived within expected delivery time frame. He then opened same case with paypal he lost again, THEN, get this, he opens another paypal case saying is ent him an empty package, He sent no proof and he won the paypal case, it makes no sense since if he had an empty box why wouldn’t that be his issue with the first 2 cases, so non the less he got a $500 watch for free, i tried to appeal it and i got the whole 48 hour response and never heard back from paypal i even called 3 times and i just gave up. I couldn’t open a dispute with my bank because i keep money in my paypal and it came straight from my balance. It’s literally legal robbery. And paypal allows it. So anyone who sells on eBay never keep money in there always transfer it to the bank.
  24. The issue the OP is having is not breaking the seal of the caseback but getting it off completely. I think the issue is the first thread has a bent ridge which is locking the caseback up.
  25. Possible that some stripped threads while putting case back back on. It tends to be the first thread that gets screwed up since it could be hard to catch. I call it the lazy screw and press/death of a caseback method. They get first thread on wrong then press it down to get past it. by doing this it gets the back past the first initial thread and onto the next thread where the back will then screw on with ease. But from there the damage is already done to the first thread thus why you cant get it off all the way.
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