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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. Only Ronsonol lighter fluid no longer has chemicals like benzene and lactane in it, only difference between it and VM&P Naphtha is boiling point and vapor pressure. You can also use mineral spirits they are the same class of chemical. They are solvents that work well attacking grease and oil. Might I add having a can of compressed air is great for drying the parts quickly after a solvent cleaning, you dont want to let the parts air dry.
  2. Ok this movement is highly complex and it is not recommended for the novice, but then again when i started my first movement was a Seiko 6139 chrono and the watch is still running in my box but i had a couple donor parts movements. So if your going to undergo this endeavor you should try and get a parts movement which may be hard to find and also check out the link below. As far as cleaning goes an ultrasonic is not generally needed to do a good cleaning. Some distilled water with detergent nylon brushes and peg wood will suffice, you can rinse in 99% alcohol but make sure you DO NOT use alcohol on the pallet and balance wheel. You can get a decent ultrasonic for under $100 harbor freight has a nice one for $60 if you are in the USA. In that case you can use naphtha or Ronsonol lighter fluid. You can also do a naphtha soak prior to hand cleaning as well in order to attack dried up old oils. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pierce-Cal-134-Chronograph-How-to-PDF-Book/372688650391?hash=item56c5f98097:g:R2YAAOSwRSddASsX
  3. I would be glad to help but its best if you submit your photos on here so anyone in the community can share their thoughts on your issue.
  4. Watch stopping dial up could mean a broken/bent staff, or cracked balance jewel, so you most likely have that issue on top of the hairspring. Suffices to say your entire balance assemble is shot. As far the rotor, it has to do with the ball bearings, nothing to do with the screw. I appreciate your willingness to try and fix this movement, as you know these 3 o’clock 6309s are very cheap a running complete watch just like the one you have can be purchased for $25. I understand you want the learning experience so i suggest you disassemble, check every part, replace parts as needed from running donor Incl. balance ass. And rotor bearings, oil properly, then reassemble. When learning its good to have donors laying around, sourcing parts from a donor that’s running is a big plus because at least you know the parts your replacing will actually work.
  5. Those hairspring vibrators are extremely hard to come by, i have been trying to get one for the last 2 years, i saw one once listed for $400 on eBay and it was sold in minutes I didn’t even have time to click buy it now. Video slow motion is really the easiest way to do this.
  6. The balance has a decent about of clearance from the plate and if it is making contact then the bend has to be right at the edge of the movement. Which still blows my mind how it can occur, not to mention if there was something forceful enough to do that then i cant imagine how nothing else is damaged. I would really love to see a pic of this movement. It should be in some kind of medical journal for watches.
  7. Are you sure the balance wheel or staff is not bent? I just cant see any circumstance which would bend a main plate, not saying it cant happen but i would think it would have to be deliberate. Maybe previous owner tried to repair and had fit of rage and slam dunked it on the floor.
  8. never had A pallet stone come loose in that manner. Could have had a bad cleaning previously. You def. cleaned it correctly by not using the IPA on the pallet and the balance. You should not have power in the spring until you have everything installed up to the pallet fork, in my case i dont wind it until the balance is installed. But either way none of this would have caused stone to come loose, so its anyone’s guess why it did. And Yes The 7s26 pallet is different.
  9. First and foremost lets figure out why did the stone come loose, how did you clean the movement and what solutions did you use? gunna be almost impossible to find a NOS one if one is found it will cost about as much as a complete movement or even a complete watch will cost. So you have to make a choice on which route you wanna go. Keep in mind Seiko pallet forks are mostly interchangeable. off the top of my head a pallet fork from a 6106, 6119, 7002, 7009, will work as well and there are others.
  10. Hmm that’s weird never seen that before but after looking at a stock Elgin 712 it doesn’t have any other jewels which are held in by a spring except for the balance cap. If these springs have been used to keep jewels together then i would suspect other than the balance it would only be on the escape wheel since normally you dont see cap jewels on anything else, and cant see a spring being needed to hold pivot jewels in place. The Elgin 712 did come with a model that had cap jewels on the escape.
  11. You can press an acrylic crystal with a tension ring. For example GS Diver Tite. I would go with a 38mm or 38.1mm. Because if you dont you will never be able to press it in since it expands when pressed and in some case tension ring slips out. GS Lo/Hi dome can be compressed in using a brass jaw type crystal remover. In this case you will need to go 38.4mm because the jaws grip the crystal and it compresses it then when set into the bezel or case the jaws are released expanding the crystal to set in the case. flat crystals will need to be glued and any acrylic crystal can be glued except tension ring crystals.
  12. Sorry if i find the post a bit confusing but we are talking about the balance cap jewels, picture 1-2 is one movement and picture 3 is a different movement but same caliber Elgin 712? If all 3 pictures is of a balance end stone/cap jewel then the only one that looks correct is picture 3. Elgin 712 movement does indeed have a shockspring on the balance. I have seen friction fit pivot jewels for the train which seems to be what this has after looking on ranfft but it would never be on the balance. One thing I can say for sure is there will never be any kind of glue on any balance jewels with a shock spring, because that would defeat the whole “shock resistant” purpose. I would also say the same for non shock resistant movements.
  13. Just like you Iam an artist as well, went to college for it and its my main profession. totally get you on the straight lines problem, i also did tattoos since i was 15 which helped since making a straight line with a machine that weighs 2 lbs and is vibrating makes a pencil or paintbrush a walk in the park. BUT I have to say since i started watch repair i could almost be a brain surgeon.
  14. It takes time, when i first started my hands would shake, part of that is because when your are new at it you are concentrating too hard on not loosing a screw or screwing up hairspring etc you dont even realize your not breathing right or even at all, depriving yourself of carbon dioxide which makes you feel nervous. Next thing you know your gripping screws to hard and pinging them across the room, Over time you will gain confidence, learn to relax, and not worry too much and then your hands and fingers will be steady as a rock. Breathing properly helps as well as feeling relaxed, watchmaking should not be practiced under duress. But in time you will actually be able to use it to manage your stress and it will actually start to help you relax even when you are already stressed because you will get into that mind set before starting to work. Kinda like some people make model airplanes to relief stress. Iam a very impatient person with a hot temper, but Iam a totally different person with a pair of tweezers in my hand. That’s why my wife doesn’t complain i spend so much time on the hobby lol.
  15. When you say pallet fork and balance spring back together, do you mean the roller jewel seated correctly in the pallet fork? If so i actually just replied to a post on this exact process.
  16. Setting pallet stones is not an easy task even with shellac, heating it to the correct softness and setting jewels will be enough to make you quit the hobby, having a pallet warmer will def help a lot in this endeavor, using a small extra piece of shellac on the pallet warmer or bluing plate separate from the pallet will be used as a guide to know when the shellac used on the jewel has the correct consistency. I agree with clock boy about not using glue. But for the sake of learning i think its okay, esp if you dont want to invest in the proper tools and the movement is not valuable. I cant say the results will be satisfactory since I have never tried it. Just know that even if by some miracle you are successful i will not recommend using glue for future projects. I think if you serious about the craft you have to be willing to try and do this right and not cut corners regardless if skill is not on the level. Practice does make perfect, but i always say it must be “good practice”. I will also suggest trying to get the caliber of the movement its def Swiss and its most likely an A. Schild so if you can submit photos of movement we can try and pinpoint the manufacturer and caliber, you can then proceed on finding a donor movement which will be much cheaper and much less of a headache.
  17. If there is any kind of loctite or adhesive on the threads of the stem, just heat it up with a lighter or oil lamp, it will come right off. Just be careful not to put the flame too close and cause any unwanted damage.
  18. NOT recommended but, You can cheat by using a super glue or epoxy since this is just a cheap movement for practice so there is no concern on having issues with future repairs. I would say use sone sort of slow drying or repositioning epoxy. I say this because one of the reasons why shellac has been used for 200 years is because it can be heated and cooled allowing for adjustments, esp on pallet stones where position is extremely important for getting the correct lock/draw on the escape. So you will need to use a glue that wont set right away. As far as your last question I don’t understand it. When you say locating pin do you mean “pivot”? Or are you talking about the safety pin located in between the fork, if so it looks to be there. If its a pivot which goes into the pivot jewel on the movement and bridge then i cant say for sure with the pictures provided.
  19. Having power in the mainspring is up to you, but letting it down with the click spring makes it easier because when it has power you can make it bank to the other side when trying to seat the impulse/roller jewel. Although the way to hold the balance assembly is highly subjective, letting balance dangle for the only purpose of installing you will not have any issues with Seiko. i can guarantee you will be more likely to damage the pivot or the hairspring trying to hold the assembly together with tweezers, this method requires a level of skill. I just would not let the balance dangle on a tack unless necessary and for only short period. Seikos are the very first watches i started working on and this is the way i did it for years never had any issues.
  20. I think you are using “stud” in the wrong sense. Either way you must make sure both balance pivots are evenly seated in their respective jewels before screwing anything down. The balance should be moving and ticking while screwing down the cock. Other wise you will surely not get a good seating and possible damage the pivots. Assuming it has power reserve still left If its not running when balance is seated then its not seated correctly, impulse jewel not seated in the pallet and/or Pivot/cock not seated correctly. Therefore you should not be screwing down anything. you should let the balance dangle. Much easier. You first seat the balance wheel. When you do this the cock should be slightly angled out of the movement. This allows impulse jewel to seat in the pallet fork and bottom pivot in the jewel first. then you rotate the movement until the balance cock is lined up to where it needs to seat. Do not rotate the balance assembly in any way. You want to keep the balance steady in one position in your tweezers and maneuver the movement with your free hand to finagle cock into place, this method is much easier than Mark Lovicks way not to say his way is wrong either. i find that letting down mainspring helps with seating the impulse jewel, but if there is power and action in the pallet set it so it points to the outside of the movement. Making it easier to go in from angle with the balance assembly
  21. What you said is plausible, and now that you clarified that it runs normal then slow makes suspect a jewel even more so. A watch can def run with a cracked jewel, but as you said depending on where the crack is and how bad the crack is can slow the watch even at stand still because the pivot does have a bit of play and depending on when and where the pivot Is rubbing along side that crack, you will see a loss of time, higher beat error, and change of amplitude. Jewels tend to crack on one side which could confirm why there is such a loss in PD position. Again remove balance and observe jewels.
  22. Hello I was wondering if anyone can send me a link to where i can buy stem tubes or case tubes for pocket watches. I have seen them for sale on ofrei and caskerco but not sure what Iam buying. Some are made for where the bow is and a lot of what i see is for waterproof crowns. I need the tube that attaches to the case where the crown sits. I have a pocket watch I want to convert to a wrist watch it is a size 12 Elgin i already soldered the Lugs but i need the crown to not have such a long neck, i have seen these conversions before esp during Great War period and I have seen the crown is seated against the case like a trench watch. I figured i would have to cut the neck or tube a solder a new tube into the case. I will then have to thread it and install the correct case sleeve and stem. I just need to know what needs to be purchased in order to do this. Does anyone have experience with this.
  23. Assuming this watch is not antique and has a shock proof system on the balance i would say that would need to be checked first. It could mean a cracked balance pivot jewel even more so than a broken or bent staff. I would say this because of the changes in behavior in different positions, a watch should run slower at when standing vertical in all 4 positions but -60 is way out of the realm of acceptability. That fact that it speeds up and slows down by just sitting and not being touched could suggest a broken jewel as well, but it could also mean something else in the train, but i would say unlikely. In my experience shock proof or not any kind of drop usually results in damage somewhere in the balance. Either way its needs to be fully disassembled. You must put the balance jewels under a microscope as well at the balance staff. Check shakes but side shakes in particular. Make sure balance wheel is true and not weaving up and down. Remove caseback and observe the balance in 6 positions with movement out of the case.
  24. Looks good to me does the tweezer set come with a brass pair or are they anti magnetic?
  25. ahhh weasol I almost forgot case back opener duhhh, and def eye loop. Only thing i would say different is tweezer number 3 or even number 2 something with wider and tapered shanks. #5 is way too thin and mostly reserved for very fine detailed work. Someone experienced prob could use it for mostly anything but to a beginner it could mean many screws and parts flying across the room. OP just make sure they are non magnetic, because anything that becomes magnetized could potentially do harm to a quartz movement even more so than a mechanical.
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