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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. patience is attention to detail is key. it took an hour and a half to clean that dial. rubber is good but does not work well on metal dials that have a brushed or grainy surface like the one i pictured, its good for smooth dials in my opinion. Other than rubber erasure i have used a GUM erasure which can be bought from any art supply store. it does not get shredded up and leave erasure dust and it does not absorb any cleaning products you will be using on the dial. like i siad i have been researching this for a year and i have tried every solution on almost every dial. and advice must be taken lightly because agin every dial is different and one method which will work for one type of dial will destroy another.
  2. looks like stem needs to be pushed in to set the time, i would check out the stem sleeve and stem. pull the movement and see if you can click the stem in and out with the crown, if there is no movement then disassemble the crown, stem and sleeve and give them a good cleaning. when screwing in the stem sleeve start at the point where it screws in the farthest. i know a guy who works solely on old waltham/egin pocket/wrist watches and he said the hardest thing is matching stem and sleeve to a case and making it work properluy, and boy he is right since i have the same issues as well.
  3. attach a pic of the dial side, that would be the most helpful to the OP and iam curious myself so maybe someone else can point something out. thanks
  4. and just to put it out there that dial had a layer of grime and corrosion on it, i should have taken a pic of the dial out of the case. the crystal was just yellow, i have another of the same dial which i will be doing soon so i will take pics this time.
  5. yea i mean every dial is different, but i chose CLR because its safe on metal and i chose wd40 because i read a post about using baby oil, but i didnt like baby oil because its very hard to dry up. wd40 will actually dry up fairly easily, and it still has penetrating qualities when it comes to loosening rust, dirt, grime. and again both CLR and WD are safe on metals and inks. there was no varnish on this dial. I have used the same method on porcelain dials with success. MY initial thought was that the CLR will definitely loosen and remove the old lume but to my surprise it didnt! and i even took a rag and wiped pretty hard on a scrap dial, but obviously i didnt wipe hard on this dial, but i try to test the extremes so i know how far i can take it when iam working on a good dial. Q-tips i never use for rubbing on metal dials because if their is a layer of varnish it will scratch! It is safe to use on porcelain though. pegwood will scratch varnish as well. Varnish can be very difficult to clean since some manufacturers print over the varnish layer, so removal will remove the ink. If its under the varnish then extra care must be taken, the boiling method works but it can remove the ink too in some cases, but WD40, olive oil, and detergent can penetrate the varnish without removing ink. I now keep a piece of pegwood soaked with WD, i use it to clean watch cases and movement parts before sending them to the ultrasonic. The solution i use will remove all the WD residue so it doesnt matter, and the shine is unreal.
  6. what is watchweasol? OP: i have been reslly researching on how to restore vintage dials and the people who do them professionally never want to give up their secrets, which kills me because Iam like, well, how did you learn??? anyway i tried all kinds of things, ultrasonic is a big NONO. i tried the boiling method and that only works on all metal dials with varnish and no ink on them. But my issue is i work on vintage copper, aluminum dials with original lume that are usually corroded with lime and grime, and every method i tried removes the lume. So i bought a lot of old metal lumed dials for $15 to experiment on and this is what i did and used. This did not remove any lume or ink from the dial and did not scratch or damage it in any way: I first used CLR. I took a piece of pegwood and sharpened like a pencil, i then took q-tips and soaked them with the CLR then dabbed the dial with it to wet it. i then scratched at with the pointed pegwood like i was sketching with a pencil. little by little grime came off. i will gently wipe/dab the excess CLR off with a microfiber rag as i was cleaning before i applied a new dab of CLR i repeated this until it looks satisfactory. Then i soaked the pegwood and q-tip with WD40, and repeated the same process of scratching. the wd-40 protects shines and protects the dials metal finish. I didnt leave any excess on the dial just a thin coat wiped with a rag. and the before after result is attached.
  7. complicated like the movements when it comes to sourcing parts
  8. well do this take out pallet and cock and see where roller rests. what i do is remove hairspring from BW and cock. instal BW and cock in movement. line up roller jewel. place spring on top off cock and line up stud with the hole. then while holding the BW from the side with your finger tip in the exact center position. mark the location of the HS stud on the balance wheel, wax pencil or thin marker, then reinstall the HS on the BW and cock, then reinstall complete balance. i never liked using a collet wrench, pivots and springs can get damaged since there is alot more trial and error, my way is a little more involved but if done right its a one time deal, and the HS and pivots are safe from destruction. edit: make HS when placed on top of the cock is in the correct position, the collet side with the beveled edge should face down to the balance, this is the way it should be installed on the BW.
  9. ok cool! what about setting watch in beat? its not way off but you should get a 0 beat error if its perfectly in beat. it may help.
  10. just a thought i am not familiar with this movement but dont swiss movements have rounded pivots? or is that only for the older movements. i think swiss adopted the flat pivots from the american movements at some point but not sure when. i work on vintage swiss trench watches and i know over time the pivots get flattened due to dirty oil grinding the pivot head down creating a lot of friction and i usually have to round it off on a pivot polisher with diamantine powder. OP: -if you polished the balance pivots how did you do so? -also did you set the watch in beat? did you get any beat error on the timegrapher? i did not see that you did that on your list, especially since this balance came from a different movement the hairspring or roller jewel may not be positioned properly causing issues on the drop/lock in vertical. when balance comes to a rest the roller jewel shout sit right in the middle of the banking pins. -new hairspring maybe in order there is always extra stress on the BW in vertical. what kind of oil did you use on the escape and and Balance.
  11. i thought the same thing, it has to be a lever set. although stem sleeve depth can be the issue as well. if you cant figure it out take the dials and hands off to get a betetr look at wahts going on
  12. try pushing crown in then, sometimes the stem is not installed correctly
  13. open the front face, on the upper right side of the dial there should be this little lever sticking out from behind the dial, you cant miss it because it will be steel not gilt(gold) colored. it will be flush with the edge of the movement. you have to slide that back in order to set the time with the crown, then slide it back in when done to re-engage winding function.
  14. demagnetizing is a good idea but not sure its the answer to your problem since a magnetized movement will run fast in any position as well as a sticking hairspring, i am very familiar with the 7s26 movement but first thing that jumped out at me is you got an aftermarket balance. Not to mention it acts the same in a different movement so i believe your issue is the balance pivot or cock jewel. these aftermarket parts are not well made and if you were to look at the pivots from the OEM to the AF you will notice differences in the pivots. not to mention the quality control from chinese knock offs, i wouldnt be surprised if you had a cracked cock jewel or one clogged with oil and debris, i have seen flakes of skin in NEW chinese movements if you can believe it. i would check the cock jewel under 50x or more magnification. also remove end stone and spring and clean the balance cock and jewels, re-oil it and see if that makes a difference.
  15. you can get yourself a jar of one dip for pallet and balance, 2oz bottle will cost you $9. and a bottle of ronsonol lighter fluid for the rest. or use the lighter fluid for everything. you can manually clean after a soak with pegwood, rodico, and fiber brushes. some guys make their own water based concoctions but was never really a fan of water based cleaners, i prefer solvents. they work better at removing old oil if you are not using an ultrasonic.
  16. you can buy a a parts case and pull the stem and sleeve from that one. just make sure the size and manufacturer are the same. if you plan on making a stem you will have to machine so its works with a sleeve if not the stem will just fall out. there are plenty of parts watches and cases on ebay. finding a stem and sleeve on their own is dam near impossible
  17. looks like an A. Schild. Need a pic of dial side. there will be a logo stamped somewhere. but thats half the battle. as far as finding caliber you first need to get the ligne size and general idea of date range, and number of jewels. then go on Dr. Ranfft's advanced search type in those specs and go through each pic of the results. some will look very similar but the keyless works is where you will tell the difference. edit: its an 8.75 Ligne size movement
  18. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_922 Check ranfft link above, usually he will list all other calibers in the family but doesnt seem like there is any for this movement. Normally you want to swap a balance wheel from the same caliber movement but in this case you may have to look at another AS. I would be sticking within the pre 1945 date range and look for AS that is 10.5 ligne, most likely balances could be the same. There is a link to all AS calibers below and there are others like the cal 912 for example that may work. You can search ebay for a schild movements and find one. or search 10.5 ligne movements. I work on old swiss trench watches so sometimes Iam in the same boat as you. Thats why now i prefer american movements, 100 year old parts can still be sourced. Swiss had wayyy too much going on during the ASAUG Ebauches days, and finding parts are extremely difficult. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk
  19. yes good idea!!! I could just remove everything and leave balance and pallet in order to see better but iam too lazy to reassemble the movement again LOL. But i like going through the motions and finding the faults instead of rushing to replace parts, its a better learning experience, and it makes you a better watch repairer. i dont think its the safety pin because did same thing using a different pallet, but it would be nice to know whats hitting what, i was thinking maybe watercolor paint instead it will come off easier.
  20. glad you got it man update us when you get it fixed
  21. you know what you are right it should not make a difference, all i know is when the wheel stops, i take my finger and operate the wheel back and forth in tiny increments and i feel something rubbing on that spot, and i cant see what it is. i will have to test with another wheel or cock, i cant use the other one because that one is running perfect i have other movements that i can pull parts from. I buy as many waltham 1907s as i can.
  22. stops at 45 degree for sure, but it stops when i handle the movement. laying down not touching it it runs perfect, but BW still wobbles. and when i pick it up it stops, put it down it starts. sometimes i can get it to run holding it but def. stops at 45 degree tilt on the 9 oclock position. i think since its wobbling any kind of movement that allows the BW to tilt too much the roller jewel gets stuck on the safety pin. you see the safety pin on these movements dont sit under the fork. it sticks straight up at a 90 degree angle parallel to the safety jewel
  23. i replaced the inner banking pin, and i went off of the position of the last one, but i adjusted the screw while looking at the lock of the escape tooth on the pallet jewel. i made sure the pallet fork was resting on the banking pin as i turned it. the balance wheel stops at like a certain angle and sometimes just me holding. for example iam holding it it stops as soon as i put it down it starts to tick, pick it up again it stops. it does seem to lock but the escapement does not lock, i know its not an issue with pallet or escape wheel because like i said it ran overnight now problem sitting on my bench. the BW does wobble so iam thinking a bent upper pivot, bottom looks fine but cant see the upper till i take the HS off
  24. OK the one movement that both balances were tight in, i replaced the balance staff and used a different cock from another parts movement, i set the watch in beat and now its running like a champ, the other one i got to work but not 100% i replaced one of the banking pins but balance stops cold at one position, if i leave the movement laying on the table both dial up and down it runs perfect, as soon as i pick it up it stops. i noticed the balance is wobbling so i think roller jewel is getting stuck on pallet safety do too excessive wobble. i def feel something rubbing at the stopping point. i think this may be due to a bent staff.
  25. it is seiko part# 251805.....below is a link to parts list and manual for the 4006 https://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Seiko/4006A.pdf I found one on ebay NOS $21 with shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEIKO-Escape-Wheel-Pinion-Mechanical-Watch-251-Part-Japan-Made-NOS/303066393666?hash=item46902a2c42:m:m0LlX7sqVJ04bDwEXo-OtUw&frcectupt=true
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