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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. ok cool! what about setting watch in beat? its not way off but you should get a 0 beat error if its perfectly in beat. it may help.
  2. just a thought i am not familiar with this movement but dont swiss movements have rounded pivots? or is that only for the older movements. i think swiss adopted the flat pivots from the american movements at some point but not sure when. i work on vintage swiss trench watches and i know over time the pivots get flattened due to dirty oil grinding the pivot head down creating a lot of friction and i usually have to round it off on a pivot polisher with diamantine powder. OP: -if you polished the balance pivots how did you do so? -also did you set the watch in beat? did you get any beat error on the timegrapher? i did not see that you did that on your list, especially since this balance came from a different movement the hairspring or roller jewel may not be positioned properly causing issues on the drop/lock in vertical. when balance comes to a rest the roller jewel shout sit right in the middle of the banking pins. -new hairspring maybe in order there is always extra stress on the BW in vertical. what kind of oil did you use on the escape and and Balance.
  3. i thought the same thing, it has to be a lever set. although stem sleeve depth can be the issue as well. if you cant figure it out take the dials and hands off to get a betetr look at wahts going on
  4. try pushing crown in then, sometimes the stem is not installed correctly
  5. open the front face, on the upper right side of the dial there should be this little lever sticking out from behind the dial, you cant miss it because it will be steel not gilt(gold) colored. it will be flush with the edge of the movement. you have to slide that back in order to set the time with the crown, then slide it back in when done to re-engage winding function.
  6. demagnetizing is a good idea but not sure its the answer to your problem since a magnetized movement will run fast in any position as well as a sticking hairspring, i am very familiar with the 7s26 movement but first thing that jumped out at me is you got an aftermarket balance. Not to mention it acts the same in a different movement so i believe your issue is the balance pivot or cock jewel. these aftermarket parts are not well made and if you were to look at the pivots from the OEM to the AF you will notice differences in the pivots. not to mention the quality control from chinese knock offs, i wouldnt be surprised if you had a cracked cock jewel or one clogged with oil and debris, i have seen flakes of skin in NEW chinese movements if you can believe it. i would check the cock jewel under 50x or more magnification. also remove end stone and spring and clean the balance cock and jewels, re-oil it and see if that makes a difference.
  7. you can get yourself a jar of one dip for pallet and balance, 2oz bottle will cost you $9. and a bottle of ronsonol lighter fluid for the rest. or use the lighter fluid for everything. you can manually clean after a soak with pegwood, rodico, and fiber brushes. some guys make their own water based concoctions but was never really a fan of water based cleaners, i prefer solvents. they work better at removing old oil if you are not using an ultrasonic.
  8. you can buy a a parts case and pull the stem and sleeve from that one. just make sure the size and manufacturer are the same. if you plan on making a stem you will have to machine so its works with a sleeve if not the stem will just fall out. there are plenty of parts watches and cases on ebay. finding a stem and sleeve on their own is dam near impossible
  9. looks like an A. Schild. Need a pic of dial side. there will be a logo stamped somewhere. but thats half the battle. as far as finding caliber you first need to get the ligne size and general idea of date range, and number of jewels. then go on Dr. Ranfft's advanced search type in those specs and go through each pic of the results. some will look very similar but the keyless works is where you will tell the difference. edit: its an 8.75 Ligne size movement
  10. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_922 Check ranfft link above, usually he will list all other calibers in the family but doesnt seem like there is any for this movement. Normally you want to swap a balance wheel from the same caliber movement but in this case you may have to look at another AS. I would be sticking within the pre 1945 date range and look for AS that is 10.5 ligne, most likely balances could be the same. There is a link to all AS calibers below and there are others like the cal 912 for example that may work. You can search ebay for a schild movements and find one. or search 10.5 ligne movements. I work on old swiss trench watches so sometimes Iam in the same boat as you. Thats why now i prefer american movements, 100 year old parts can still be sourced. Swiss had wayyy too much going on during the ASAUG Ebauches days, and finding parts are extremely difficult. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk
  11. yes good idea!!! I could just remove everything and leave balance and pallet in order to see better but iam too lazy to reassemble the movement again LOL. But i like going through the motions and finding the faults instead of rushing to replace parts, its a better learning experience, and it makes you a better watch repairer. i dont think its the safety pin because did same thing using a different pallet, but it would be nice to know whats hitting what, i was thinking maybe watercolor paint instead it will come off easier.
  12. glad you got it man update us when you get it fixed
  13. you know what you are right it should not make a difference, all i know is when the wheel stops, i take my finger and operate the wheel back and forth in tiny increments and i feel something rubbing on that spot, and i cant see what it is. i will have to test with another wheel or cock, i cant use the other one because that one is running perfect i have other movements that i can pull parts from. I buy as many waltham 1907s as i can.
  14. stops at 45 degree for sure, but it stops when i handle the movement. laying down not touching it it runs perfect, but BW still wobbles. and when i pick it up it stops, put it down it starts. sometimes i can get it to run holding it but def. stops at 45 degree tilt on the 9 oclock position. i think since its wobbling any kind of movement that allows the BW to tilt too much the roller jewel gets stuck on the safety pin. you see the safety pin on these movements dont sit under the fork. it sticks straight up at a 90 degree angle parallel to the safety jewel
  15. i replaced the inner banking pin, and i went off of the position of the last one, but i adjusted the screw while looking at the lock of the escape tooth on the pallet jewel. i made sure the pallet fork was resting on the banking pin as i turned it. the balance wheel stops at like a certain angle and sometimes just me holding. for example iam holding it it stops as soon as i put it down it starts to tick, pick it up again it stops. it does seem to lock but the escapement does not lock, i know its not an issue with pallet or escape wheel because like i said it ran overnight now problem sitting on my bench. the BW does wobble so iam thinking a bent upper pivot, bottom looks fine but cant see the upper till i take the HS off
  16. OK the one movement that both balances were tight in, i replaced the balance staff and used a different cock from another parts movement, i set the watch in beat and now its running like a champ, the other one i got to work but not 100% i replaced one of the banking pins but balance stops cold at one position, if i leave the movement laying on the table both dial up and down it runs perfect, as soon as i pick it up it stops. i noticed the balance is wobbling so i think roller jewel is getting stuck on pallet safety do too excessive wobble. i def feel something rubbing at the stopping point. i think this may be due to a bent staff.
  17. it is seiko part# 251805.....below is a link to parts list and manual for the 4006 https://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Seiko/4006A.pdf I found one on ebay NOS $21 with shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEIKO-Escape-Wheel-Pinion-Mechanical-Watch-251-Part-Japan-Made-NOS/303066393666?hash=item46902a2c42:m:m0LlX7sqVJ04bDwEXo-OtUw&frcectupt=true
  18. i was going to say a spring sounds like the culprit here, glad you figured it out
  19. usually i use a balance tack but i only have one so if i have an extra balance iam working on i place it with bottom pivot down on a piece of rodico. i dont like flipping balance over because i always grab it by the cock, unlike mark how he grabs the cock and balance together. i guess its a matter of preference. placing it briefly on the desk like mark did will not cause any damage to the lower pivot though.
  20. OK i want to get a GOOD cleaning solution, iam tired of using naptha. Was looking at LR but i think i may want to go with zenith. I want the movement to really shine so the zenith 777 is what i may go with but iam assuming it has fumes, all my equipment is indoors so was thinking to go with zenith 67 instead, but how well is the shine compared to the 777 does anyone know? also since both of these cleaners are solvent based iam sure i will also have to get the rinsing solution as well. Also when i clean parts in my ultrasonic i put them in glass jars will any of these solutions have problem being in a closed off glass jar while cleaning, i figured this may also help with any fumes while cleaning. and one last question: i hate cleaning balances in the ultrasonic i had a few hairsprings get screwed up cleaning them in an ultrasonic, sometime if i pull the balance out by the cock the wheel gets stuck in the solution. so i was gunna go with one dip but i read that it leaves a sticky residue and that doesnt sound acceptable esp for a cleaner designed specifically for hairsprings.
  21. looks like you can fit a sharp blade in there pretty easy, some of these old pocket watches had a groove shaved under the lid in order to fit a case knife under it, if you get it off you can do it yourself making it easier to remove next time
  22. hey nuce where did you see that video that mark made, is it a part of the dial up dial down series videos
  23. ah ok watch paper i also heard you can use a dial washer.
  24. i believe this was the issue at first and i fixed it. but now balance stops on dial side up. come to think of it jrichard i noticed a coning at the bottom of the upper balance pivot, i know this is normal but this looked different and this was from the balance that was original to the movement the other balance looks better but still stops. Nuce joe as far as other movement goes that is very tight i lifted the cock a bit but did it wayyyy too much now the balance is all over the place, and laxy me tried to do it with balance installed and i think i bent the pivot, so thats one is finished it was one of those moments when you realize that you knew that was going happen before you did it but did it anyway and cant figure out why. also how do you shim a balance, never really tried it. what do you use? also i would never gouge the plate.
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