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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. the lume wont come if your using soaked peg wood or brush on the teeth, a dip and soak is a different story.
  2. there is no problem using grease if the case is sealed with new gaskets, grease and oil is applied all throughout a movement so if we were to be worried about attracting dirt then we probably wouldnt be oiling movements. And would you mind explaining why you dont recommend cleaning a case in an ultrasonic cleaner.
  3. i use silicone grease on my 6139 inner bezels, use pegwood or scratch brush to get off any dirt inside the case where the rings rests , then clean in an ultrasonic if you have one. Then i actually polish the ridge where the bezel sits. then add a thin layer of grease. over the years the crown gaskets break and or shrink letting dirt and debris into the case. it accumulates in the stem and keys, and the stem gear then transfers it to the bezel thus spreading it and caking it along the inside of the case. same way an outer bezel on an old watch will seize, once you remove the bezel you can see the dirt that was caked underneath it. I would suggest getting new crown gaskets as well for the watch to ensure this wont occur again. EDIT: if there is nothing physically wrong with the old bezel it can be cleaned using soap water, and fiber or plastic brush.
  4. i have to say moving fast in vertical is not something you hear everyday. Sticking hairspring sound like obvious cause but i would suspect that if it was sticking you would have the same reading in the 12 down vertical position as well, assuming the hairspring is not out of shape. if it runs normal 12 down then closely inspect balance pivots, make sure they are not bent and the ends are domed and not faceted in any way. another good idea is to open case back place watch in the trouble position and use extreme magnification or slow motion feature with zoom on your phone if you have one, and check the coils of the spring, observe how they expand and contract, are the spaces between the coils even, or does one coil have a wider gap on one side than it does on the opposite side, if so then you hairspring may be out of shape. I also have to agree with Nuce that BW can be out of shape too.
  5. personally not a fan of eye loops i dont like using only one eye, i do use them for inspection and more tedious work, like staking a new staff, fitting jewels, escapement inspection, etc. Normal work i use a headband magnifier, up to 5x, because anything higher you have to get too close and head gear is banging into the table and blocking out my light. for extreme inspections like jewel holes, pivots, pivot polishing, i have a 4" led microscope from 50x up to 1000x. I can actually see surface texture of a pivot, i can even connect to computer monitor and take snap shots directly from the scope on an SD card. Purchased on ebay for $60 the best money i ever spent.
  6. mark has some great videos on hairspring manipulation, unfortunately this is one of those things that will be very difficult to explain to someone with words. Best thing to do is watch videos, even videos really dont do much justice. I practice on scrap hairsprings, because one thing is tweezer pressure. Knowing the right amount of pressure is key, too much pressure can cause your hairspring to go in a completely different direction than you initially intended. Me personally I have no patience ( yes i know, why do i repair watches then? well somehow it calms me down kinda like building model airplanes, but the frustration still comes out here and there) so i always just replace the hairspring if its available.
  7. yes of course contamination, i was referring to an unopened bottle in my post, and i agree if its expired get a new bottle esp if it has been used and bottle was opened many times. but i can be cheap so i let them go for a year after expiartion, if i see any debris or discoloration i get a new bottle asap
  8. update the forum on your progress
  9. i know people who still use elgin M56B the M56B is a synthetic oil, synthetics dont gum up and the break down takes an extremely long time and its very little so they dont exactly expire, 8000 is made up of natural oils that will degrade over time. however a couple months maybe a year for the 8000, anything older than that may still be ok but i wouldnt take any chances. a new bottle cost $10 so just be safe and get a new bottle.
  10. I have to respectfully disagree, not all wrist watches designed specifically for trench warfare were advertised as such with dust proof cases. And these cases are very rare and seldom seen. Waltham had a dust/water proof depollier case which if one is found can fetch upwards of 10K. cases like dennison and borgel featured screw on backs and fronts which were also advertised as dustproof as well. BUT but there were many other cases which were not dust proof advertised for the same purpose, for example the Fahys case with the shrapnel guard that snaps onto the case over the crystal. these were not dust proof, they had snap on casebacks, But advertised for military. Same goes for the Khaki, they were very popular for US soldiers, also not dust proof. The hunter case which was designed with a hinged back like a pocket watch was the first case designed specifically for the high demand of wrist watches during the great war, and it was advertised to the military. In some cases you will even see pocket watches with soldered wire lugs specifically for military because during that time wristwatches were a Lady's fashion, Men used pocket watches, most men would not even wear their wristwatches when home on leave. below you will see a waltham advertisements featuring a watch with a hunter cases, 2 of the ads were specifically for military . there where other characteristics that made a watch a trench watch such as band, dial, crystal, and hands. None of these cases in these ads were dust proof.
  11. its an A. Michel caliber 220 size 13 Ligne. Patented in 1916. In 1925 A Michel SA joined Ébauches SA, an association of 26 ébauche makers, including Fontainemelon, A. Schild, ETA (at the time the movement division of Eterna), and a number of other Swiss ebauche makers. During the time Rolex among other brands such as Omega used movements from ebauche makers, they did not manufacture their own. I have a few i may be able to spare some parts from. You can find them whole sometimes on ebay if you look up trench watch movements or 13 ligne movements. they can also be found in a number of other trench watches, its a very common movement for swiss trench watches, just like the AS 137 and 168. the replacement movement will fit the case and keys dont matter but the stem will. and i have to say this movement was never supplied to rolex. Rolex(Wilsdorf & Davis) used Aegler Rebberg 15 jewel movements like the one you attached. Aegler supplied movements and complete cases to Wilsdorf & Davis and the cases should have a W&D hallmark inside and on the movement, after 1918 movements would say rolex on them not W&D. Also prior to 1926 Rolex was never written on the dial because British retailers at that time did not allow the names of foreign watch manufacturers to appear on the faces of the watches they sold. so i really hate to break it to you but this is a fake rolex trench, they are very easy to make. i see them all the time on ebay. read this: http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/myrolexpage.php
  12. OK what jumps out at me here is two things: someone else was in the watch, and barrel cover was barely on so maybe the last person put the wrong size mainspring in the watch which is why the lid opened. if the mainspring is too wide then it will be rubbing up against the barrel lid which will cause a huge loss in power. you dont need an OEM spring you can find an aftermarket if you dont know size and type you can get a mainspring gauge and look at the chart on ofrei for end style.
  13. if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
  14. does anyone have the bestfit encyclopedia 111?
  15. wow this has me stumped. i work on swiss trench watches too and AS is very common. I always see Calibers 168 and 137 occasionally a 158 but i have never seen this one. its reminds me of a cyma or tavannes cyma (TACY) movement, but it is clearly AS due to obvious logo and keyless works
  16. agreed. didnt think the rolex was real but if it was and he didnt have the rolex movement and the ETA is always better than a clone. AP yes mark does have a video on the 7750, and there are a ton of other videos as well. update when you fix that spring
  17. considering this is not a hacking movement i would agree with JD, if it is hacking then the crown is not seated correctly and the watch is hacking......but i will put my money on it that it has a dirty stuck mainspring vert common on these older watches i see all the time, and the seller means putting pressure on the crown as if your trying to wind the watch, that pressure basically forces energy on to the train forcing it to tick, once crown is let go the tension comes off and the watch stops. in this case the mainspring will need to be changed or cleaned, oiled, and re installed.
  18. the screws support the pinions when pressing hands on. the hand being off could have just been you not pressing on perfectly. as far as clone 7750 goes they really arent top notch when compared to the eta, the chinese have no quality control and the chrono arms always have more play in them compared to the eta because of the way they are riveted together, make sure there is no play in the rivets. but the spring is 100% your issue it may be popping out when hit the start button look at the pic i attached the spring should but up against the pinion arm. that spring pushes the arm and allows the pinion to make contact with the center wheel which makes the chrono run when you hit the start button, then pull back when stopping chrono. also i have to ask is the rolex real? if so go spend $400 and get an official valjoux 7750. you will thank me later
  19. great addition andy, also i read and used toothpaste with a tooth brush to remove tarnish from silver watch cases, it removes the black and then you can polish from there with jewelers rouge.
  20. patience is attention to detail is key. it took an hour and a half to clean that dial. rubber is good but does not work well on metal dials that have a brushed or grainy surface like the one i pictured, its good for smooth dials in my opinion. Other than rubber erasure i have used a GUM erasure which can be bought from any art supply store. it does not get shredded up and leave erasure dust and it does not absorb any cleaning products you will be using on the dial. like i siad i have been researching this for a year and i have tried every solution on almost every dial. and advice must be taken lightly because agin every dial is different and one method which will work for one type of dial will destroy another.
  21. looks like stem needs to be pushed in to set the time, i would check out the stem sleeve and stem. pull the movement and see if you can click the stem in and out with the crown, if there is no movement then disassemble the crown, stem and sleeve and give them a good cleaning. when screwing in the stem sleeve start at the point where it screws in the farthest. i know a guy who works solely on old waltham/egin pocket/wrist watches and he said the hardest thing is matching stem and sleeve to a case and making it work properluy, and boy he is right since i have the same issues as well.
  22. attach a pic of the dial side, that would be the most helpful to the OP and iam curious myself so maybe someone else can point something out. thanks
  23. and just to put it out there that dial had a layer of grime and corrosion on it, i should have taken a pic of the dial out of the case. the crystal was just yellow, i have another of the same dial which i will be doing soon so i will take pics this time.
  24. yea i mean every dial is different, but i chose CLR because its safe on metal and i chose wd40 because i read a post about using baby oil, but i didnt like baby oil because its very hard to dry up. wd40 will actually dry up fairly easily, and it still has penetrating qualities when it comes to loosening rust, dirt, grime. and again both CLR and WD are safe on metals and inks. there was no varnish on this dial. I have used the same method on porcelain dials with success. MY initial thought was that the CLR will definitely loosen and remove the old lume but to my surprise it didnt! and i even took a rag and wiped pretty hard on a scrap dial, but obviously i didnt wipe hard on this dial, but i try to test the extremes so i know how far i can take it when iam working on a good dial. Q-tips i never use for rubbing on metal dials because if their is a layer of varnish it will scratch! It is safe to use on porcelain though. pegwood will scratch varnish as well. Varnish can be very difficult to clean since some manufacturers print over the varnish layer, so removal will remove the ink. If its under the varnish then extra care must be taken, the boiling method works but it can remove the ink too in some cases, but WD40, olive oil, and detergent can penetrate the varnish without removing ink. I now keep a piece of pegwood soaked with WD, i use it to clean watch cases and movement parts before sending them to the ultrasonic. The solution i use will remove all the WD residue so it doesnt matter, and the shine is unreal.
  25. what is watchweasol? OP: i have been reslly researching on how to restore vintage dials and the people who do them professionally never want to give up their secrets, which kills me because Iam like, well, how did you learn??? anyway i tried all kinds of things, ultrasonic is a big NONO. i tried the boiling method and that only works on all metal dials with varnish and no ink on them. But my issue is i work on vintage copper, aluminum dials with original lume that are usually corroded with lime and grime, and every method i tried removes the lume. So i bought a lot of old metal lumed dials for $15 to experiment on and this is what i did and used. This did not remove any lume or ink from the dial and did not scratch or damage it in any way: I first used CLR. I took a piece of pegwood and sharpened like a pencil, i then took q-tips and soaked them with the CLR then dabbed the dial with it to wet it. i then scratched at with the pointed pegwood like i was sketching with a pencil. little by little grime came off. i will gently wipe/dab the excess CLR off with a microfiber rag as i was cleaning before i applied a new dab of CLR i repeated this until it looks satisfactory. Then i soaked the pegwood and q-tip with WD40, and repeated the same process of scratching. the wd-40 protects shines and protects the dials metal finish. I didnt leave any excess on the dial just a thin coat wiped with a rag. and the before after result is attached.
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