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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. was thinking about curvature blades or maybe a driver with a torque cylinder
  2. hello WRT. my inquiry is about removing cap jewel screws. I work on old watch movements, usually waltham and elgin 0size and smaller. and i swear i can never get cap jewels screws out, no matter what size screwdriver i use. Iam using top of the line bergeon tempered steel drivers. these csrews are so tiny and the slot is thin and shallow my blade just slips right out. you know when you think your turning the screw but your not. its so annoying and if i do manage to get them out its even worse trying to put them back in. This makes it very difficult for me to do a proper service so Iam wondering if anyone knows a specific driver or blade i should use. the bergeon .6 and .8 i cant use because i need to apply pressure and with bergeon the blade shanks are the same with as the blade, so any pressure bends and/or breaks the shank. I was looking into getting a set that has wider shanks than the blade, like the old time drivers. i dont know why bergeon doesnt do it, iam guessing so you cant use their blades with other drivers. i have a cheap set that has wide shanks but the blades are garbage, i even tempered them and they still suck. any suggestions
  3. You could take all those unnecessary jewels and make a nice ring or necklace for your wife, i actually did that one for my wife. and I said to her, this ring was made from all the senseless watch parts i buy. Now she doesnt complain anymore when packages come to the door everyday lol
  4. I made this pivot polisher lathe using a Levin pivot polisher, old cigar box , 12V 500rpm DC motor, 1.5-12V speed controller, 9V battery, 6mm pulley, and 4" rubber oil filter gasket. I added the speed controller for better results. Let me know what you guys think
  5. i love the old school copper gold dials
  6. i agree with the general consensus that the keys are probably dirty and gunked up, but i think that would stop the watch right away, not 20 min later. I had a few watches that did that. iam guessing you checked that it runs fine when crown is not screwed in?
  7. the lume wont come if your using soaked peg wood or brush on the teeth, a dip and soak is a different story.
  8. there is no problem using grease if the case is sealed with new gaskets, grease and oil is applied all throughout a movement so if we were to be worried about attracting dirt then we probably wouldnt be oiling movements. And would you mind explaining why you dont recommend cleaning a case in an ultrasonic cleaner.
  9. i use silicone grease on my 6139 inner bezels, use pegwood or scratch brush to get off any dirt inside the case where the rings rests , then clean in an ultrasonic if you have one. Then i actually polish the ridge where the bezel sits. then add a thin layer of grease. over the years the crown gaskets break and or shrink letting dirt and debris into the case. it accumulates in the stem and keys, and the stem gear then transfers it to the bezel thus spreading it and caking it along the inside of the case. same way an outer bezel on an old watch will seize, once you remove the bezel you can see the dirt that was caked underneath it. I would suggest getting new crown gaskets as well for the watch to ensure this wont occur again. EDIT: if there is nothing physically wrong with the old bezel it can be cleaned using soap water, and fiber or plastic brush.
  10. i have to say moving fast in vertical is not something you hear everyday. Sticking hairspring sound like obvious cause but i would suspect that if it was sticking you would have the same reading in the 12 down vertical position as well, assuming the hairspring is not out of shape. if it runs normal 12 down then closely inspect balance pivots, make sure they are not bent and the ends are domed and not faceted in any way. another good idea is to open case back place watch in the trouble position and use extreme magnification or slow motion feature with zoom on your phone if you have one, and check the coils of the spring, observe how they expand and contract, are the spaces between the coils even, or does one coil have a wider gap on one side than it does on the opposite side, if so then you hairspring may be out of shape. I also have to agree with Nuce that BW can be out of shape too.
  11. personally not a fan of eye loops i dont like using only one eye, i do use them for inspection and more tedious work, like staking a new staff, fitting jewels, escapement inspection, etc. Normal work i use a headband magnifier, up to 5x, because anything higher you have to get too close and head gear is banging into the table and blocking out my light. for extreme inspections like jewel holes, pivots, pivot polishing, i have a 4" led microscope from 50x up to 1000x. I can actually see surface texture of a pivot, i can even connect to computer monitor and take snap shots directly from the scope on an SD card. Purchased on ebay for $60 the best money i ever spent.
  12. mark has some great videos on hairspring manipulation, unfortunately this is one of those things that will be very difficult to explain to someone with words. Best thing to do is watch videos, even videos really dont do much justice. I practice on scrap hairsprings, because one thing is tweezer pressure. Knowing the right amount of pressure is key, too much pressure can cause your hairspring to go in a completely different direction than you initially intended. Me personally I have no patience ( yes i know, why do i repair watches then? well somehow it calms me down kinda like building model airplanes, but the frustration still comes out here and there) so i always just replace the hairspring if its available.
  13. yes of course contamination, i was referring to an unopened bottle in my post, and i agree if its expired get a new bottle esp if it has been used and bottle was opened many times. but i can be cheap so i let them go for a year after expiartion, if i see any debris or discoloration i get a new bottle asap
  14. update the forum on your progress
  15. i know people who still use elgin M56B the M56B is a synthetic oil, synthetics dont gum up and the break down takes an extremely long time and its very little so they dont exactly expire, 8000 is made up of natural oils that will degrade over time. however a couple months maybe a year for the 8000, anything older than that may still be ok but i wouldnt take any chances. a new bottle cost $10 so just be safe and get a new bottle.
  16. I have to respectfully disagree, not all wrist watches designed specifically for trench warfare were advertised as such with dust proof cases. And these cases are very rare and seldom seen. Waltham had a dust/water proof depollier case which if one is found can fetch upwards of 10K. cases like dennison and borgel featured screw on backs and fronts which were also advertised as dustproof as well. BUT but there were many other cases which were not dust proof advertised for the same purpose, for example the Fahys case with the shrapnel guard that snaps onto the case over the crystal. these were not dust proof, they had snap on casebacks, But advertised for military. Same goes for the Khaki, they were very popular for US soldiers, also not dust proof. The hunter case which was designed with a hinged back like a pocket watch was the first case designed specifically for the high demand of wrist watches during the great war, and it was advertised to the military. In some cases you will even see pocket watches with soldered wire lugs specifically for military because during that time wristwatches were a Lady's fashion, Men used pocket watches, most men would not even wear their wristwatches when home on leave. below you will see a waltham advertisements featuring a watch with a hunter cases, 2 of the ads were specifically for military . there where other characteristics that made a watch a trench watch such as band, dial, crystal, and hands. None of these cases in these ads were dust proof.
  17. its an A. Michel caliber 220 size 13 Ligne. Patented in 1916. In 1925 A Michel SA joined Ébauches SA, an association of 26 ébauche makers, including Fontainemelon, A. Schild, ETA (at the time the movement division of Eterna), and a number of other Swiss ebauche makers. During the time Rolex among other brands such as Omega used movements from ebauche makers, they did not manufacture their own. I have a few i may be able to spare some parts from. You can find them whole sometimes on ebay if you look up trench watch movements or 13 ligne movements. they can also be found in a number of other trench watches, its a very common movement for swiss trench watches, just like the AS 137 and 168. the replacement movement will fit the case and keys dont matter but the stem will. and i have to say this movement was never supplied to rolex. Rolex(Wilsdorf & Davis) used Aegler Rebberg 15 jewel movements like the one you attached. Aegler supplied movements and complete cases to Wilsdorf & Davis and the cases should have a W&D hallmark inside and on the movement, after 1918 movements would say rolex on them not W&D. Also prior to 1926 Rolex was never written on the dial because British retailers at that time did not allow the names of foreign watch manufacturers to appear on the faces of the watches they sold. so i really hate to break it to you but this is a fake rolex trench, they are very easy to make. i see them all the time on ebay. read this: http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/myrolexpage.php
  18. OK what jumps out at me here is two things: someone else was in the watch, and barrel cover was barely on so maybe the last person put the wrong size mainspring in the watch which is why the lid opened. if the mainspring is too wide then it will be rubbing up against the barrel lid which will cause a huge loss in power. you dont need an OEM spring you can find an aftermarket if you dont know size and type you can get a mainspring gauge and look at the chart on ofrei for end style.
  19. if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
  20. does anyone have the bestfit encyclopedia 111?
  21. wow this has me stumped. i work on swiss trench watches too and AS is very common. I always see Calibers 168 and 137 occasionally a 158 but i have never seen this one. its reminds me of a cyma or tavannes cyma (TACY) movement, but it is clearly AS due to obvious logo and keyless works
  22. agreed. didnt think the rolex was real but if it was and he didnt have the rolex movement and the ETA is always better than a clone. AP yes mark does have a video on the 7750, and there are a ton of other videos as well. update when you fix that spring
  23. considering this is not a hacking movement i would agree with JD, if it is hacking then the crown is not seated correctly and the watch is hacking......but i will put my money on it that it has a dirty stuck mainspring vert common on these older watches i see all the time, and the seller means putting pressure on the crown as if your trying to wind the watch, that pressure basically forces energy on to the train forcing it to tick, once crown is let go the tension comes off and the watch stops. in this case the mainspring will need to be changed or cleaned, oiled, and re installed.
  24. the screws support the pinions when pressing hands on. the hand being off could have just been you not pressing on perfectly. as far as clone 7750 goes they really arent top notch when compared to the eta, the chinese have no quality control and the chrono arms always have more play in them compared to the eta because of the way they are riveted together, make sure there is no play in the rivets. but the spring is 100% your issue it may be popping out when hit the start button look at the pic i attached the spring should but up against the pinion arm. that spring pushes the arm and allows the pinion to make contact with the center wheel which makes the chrono run when you hit the start button, then pull back when stopping chrono. also i have to ask is the rolex real? if so go spend $400 and get an official valjoux 7750. you will thank me later
  25. great addition andy, also i read and used toothpaste with a tooth brush to remove tarnish from silver watch cases, it removes the black and then you can polish from there with jewelers rouge.
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