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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. i believe the repros are overrated, works of art indeed but overrated. One thing i do like is they boost the value of the originals. i.e. the H558 Arnie and the 6105 and 62mas. I purchased 2 6105s in 2017 for $800 and $900. One of them was like NOS with box. I was waiting since 2018 for the re-release since it was the 50 year anniversary, I had a feeling a repro was coming but couldnt wait anymore and sold the one for $1000 last year on watchuseek because I wanted to move on to another watch and i kept the nice one for myself. I sold right before the announced the release of the 6105 i was so pissed. know you cant find a decent one for less than $1500. I saw few sell for $2000+ esp if the serial number is dated pre-1972 during the vietnam era. And Iam not selling mine its a 1971 and its mint all original with box i could prob get 2500 for it but i just cant part with it. And it makes sense because why pay $4000 dollars for a watch when you can buy the original for half, and the same goes for the 62mas, and the 6159.
  2. listen be patient and wait for the correct case back for the bullhead. those watches are going up in value every year, they sell for $600+ now.
  3. No problem. I suggest getting some cheap movements on eBay and practice. Start with pocketwatch movements then move on to something a little more advanced. You can find lots of Russian Vostok movements cheap. They have a shock system on the balance and would be comparable on skill level with the type of movement in your watch.
  4. hard to tell but it looks like it is hacked. Technically you can do it in wind or set position with the 2824 but because of issues with the lever slipping off the clutch they suggest doing it with stem in set position so if you are in the "set" camp, you should expect to depress the set lever when re-inserting. If you don't, the stem may move the set lever back into the quickset or wind position...in which case you've defeated the purpose of having it the "set" position to begin with. I prefer stem in wind position esp on movements with hack feature which is standard on 7750 but optional with 2824.
  5. Its worth it for average use but again it will not help if you are working with movements with center seconds, esp ones that dont have a jewel bridge and just use a spring.
  6. i personally think ebay is the best source, speedtimerkollection doesnt always have the harder to find case backs like the ones you mentioned and I highly doubt they will have a bullhead case back.
  7. When i say re-cased i mean people who take the movements then case them in an aftermarket wrist watch case.
  8. @TheoByou will need to zoom in much much more to see the balance pivot
  9. I was initially going to say it could be chinese. And i would agree that would be the case if you cant find any FHF markings anywhere.
  10. Nothing makes me more sick then to see the hackers re-case these quality timepieces, these movements are works of art to me. There are a few guys i know that re-case these and they sell them for upwards of $3000, not gunna mention names here but i swear its sacrilege to the original makers and highway robbery to the buyers even though the craftsmanship is top notch they are still only re-casing movements that are worth anywhere from $20-$100 tops. But i do agree I say these movements are like a box of chocolates, you never know what your gunna get. And they have been touched so many times in the last 100 years you never know had their dirty little unexperienced fingers in there. However i just feel like quality is unmatched compared to swiss. Take the Hairspring for example....i RARELY come across a mangled or damaged hairspring compared to the swiss. Even balance staffs hold up better, since americans used flat pivots and swiss was concaved, overtime the swiss pivots would flatten and i would then have to reshape them with diamantine powder then adjust the jewels for end shakes, never had to do that on a waltham or elgin.
  11. Uggghh i feel your pain, these swiss pocket watches can be difficult to identify. I know index was a micro brand from the West End SA watch company in switzerland, (which introduced the first incabloc in 1934) not to be confused with the West End watch CO. from Pennsylvania USA. Depending on dating this could be an FHF movement since thats what they were known to use up until the 60s when ETA became a big player. It is an incabloc so we can note its no older than 1934 and no newer than 1960. So safe to say this an FHF most likely from the 50s based on its design. https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/fontainemelon.php here is some info on fontainmelon (FHF). Did you look on the dial side to see if you can see the logo, that is normally where you would find them.
  12. yea sometimes it takes what i call "scary Force" to get them separated. you wont damage as long as you dont pry. Just pull.
  13. that is true you never know what someone else may have used before, unless you are familiar with manufacturer, caliber and grade there is no way to tell. Which is why i stopped working on swiss trench and pocket watches, way too many movements out there and no resources on them. Thats why I made the switch to American movements. plenty of resources and NOS parts available, and they hold much more value since the craftsmanship of the time was unmatched compared to the swiss.
  14. Wait....this may be a stupid question maybe i missed something. OP dont you have the original spring??? If so there really is no reason to be going nuts measuring the barrel.
  15. Ok so iam guessing you need to remove the hairspring in order to fix it. Hairspring issues are a common problem with the 7s26. There are two levers you can use to remove the hairspring.
  16. I dont know much about this specific watch but it looks like it uses the typical split stem. You will need a pair of wire cutter pliers to be able to slip in there and apply pressure to separate the male end from the female end. Be careful not to pry you may cause damage to the case/movement, looking at this watch you will have to go about it from outside the case tube near the crown. You can look up tutorials on the web on how to do this, there are many out there.
  17. I think the watch is hacked. Does the balance move at all with agitation. If not then then you may have an issue with the hacking mechanism. Even with the hack the watch should still run when stem is removed because your supposed to remove the stem while its seated NOT clicked out in the set position. The stop lever may not be seated correctly with the sliding pinion. Still possible you have the wrong stem, did it state that is for a 7750?
  18. Are you saying the entire balance and spring is separated from the cock? If so reattach the stud to the adjusting arm, then regulate from there. There should not be glue there but Bergeon makes a set of hairspring collect pliers, they are quite expensive though.
  19. Mainspring gauge. You stick the MS in the slot and pull it down till it stops then that is your measurement. It’s called a Dennison gauge. You can use calipers but this will give you the Swiss Dennison size.
  20. If there is no shock protection i would date it to be pre-1940s. Seitz has been around a very long time, so i would not use that as a guide to dating, plus jewels could have been swapped out at any time during its life, Also i would look into getting better oils. Synthetic oils. 8000 is a natural oil and not the best to use on escapement since it just whisks away. You should also be versatile in your oils, different viscosities are required in different areas of the movement. The mainspring you got should suffice, and I dont think that would cause a major drop in amp. But is the width smaller or larger? In some causes even a thousands of an inch can cause rubbing on the barrel lid. In your situation if the issue lies in the staff your looking at doing a staff replacement which is not for the novice. And the tools required can be costly.
  21. What oils are you using? when you replaced the mainspring, did you measure the strength of the spring or just the width and length? You need to check balance staff pivot under a microscope, the tip could have gone flat, they should be concave since this is a Swiss movement. If they are flat it will cause too much friction and will result in low amplitude and the watch will run very fast. You should see recoil when you let the train run down but can be difficult on vintage movements because of wear and tear, not sure the age of the watch but i have the same problem with 100+ year old American movements. Cracked jewels and worn down pivots. I replace the jewels but even so pivots are usually worn so i have to go through a bunch of parts movements and pick the wheels with the best looking pivots. No NOS parts available. If this is a 7 jewel movement then your gunna have a real hard time since pivot holes get worn down to the point where they are no longer round.
  22. I think you mean to say viscosity not slipperiness. And this is not why they perform “much” not slightly better than natural oils. The synthetic oils were designed not to spread, therefore staying in their place much longer thus making the service last longer. But i agree with you that you can make a movement run perfectly fine using old natural oils. I read a blog from an old watchmaker who used oil from Brazil nuts to lubricate pivots. I would never do it but it works.
  23. They are generally the same size and as suggested a magnet is your friend here. usually they come with a short or long tube that would be the main difference from one to the next. You can use nail clippers like Nuce said but in my experience you must be very careful since you can easily snip off the tube or crimp too much. Sometimes i use just a pair of tweezers to crimp it.
  24. Oil wedge which shows too much oil, the wedge should form in the middle. If epilame was ran on the escape prior, some will transfer to that tooth and linger, at this time the entire escapement will need to be re-cleaned and oiled.
  25. You should not see any wet on teeth that are not making contact with the pallet jewels. Many manufacturers use epilame even on train jewels, but i said its not needed with 9415 unless the manufacturer calls for it which yes omega does but i dont service omegas, and this is a Chinese clone. One thing i know omega does not say is use epilame and 9415 on every 3rd tooth of the escape wheel. And......This was a quote from one of my previous responses which was taught to me by a certified omega watchmaker. “as you move the pallet fork, and the escape wheel tooth starts to come across the impulse surface of the pallet fork jewel, you will see a small wedge of oil form in the angle between the tooth and the jewel. If that forms when the leading edge of the tooth is about 1/2 way across the surface of the jewel, that is the right amount of oil. If it forms earlier than that, it’s probably too much, and if it only forms very late as it moves across, that’s probably too little. Its not just a matter of looking at the escape under a microscope with no action.”
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