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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. Forgot to add when I clean the parts I use mesh compartment trays. But in the beginning I used mini glass vials filled with cleaning fluid and each one was numbered and I also numbered the compartments of the tray. So each tray section would correspond with the glass vial. I still use this method today when dealing with an unfamiliar movement. But if you have disassembled and reassembled enough movements you kinda start to just know where everything goes, kinda like when you move to a new town you don’t know where everything is, you use gps a few times get to know your area and grid, then you just know.
  2. Pictures don’t always help so I always use these compartment trays, these I get from a hobby store in the paint section. But Esslinger sells nice ones with lids....each piece I remove goes into one compartment with its respective screws. Each compartment represents a step. When i reassemble I work backwards. As far as a bridge that uses different length screws you can always attach the bridge and look from the sides and tell where longer screws will go. Or by seeing where they screw in from under. Kinda hard to explain but just observe and you will get the picture.
  3. I despise fashion watches. Lets take $10 Chinese quartz movement slap gucci on the dial and sell it for a $1000 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. It should only slip to prevent overwinding, otherwise sliding and slipping of the mainspring in the barrel of an automatic will result in very low amplitude and poor running conditions or may not run at all. This why I never oil an automatic MS, even the slightest bit of oil drops the amplitude a clean dry spring with kluber on barrel wall yield 280+ without fail. For me at least can’t speak for others and not going to say my method is the answer. I would say a dry lube is best for a MS if anything. And as most say a lot of new mainsprings come with dry lube ready to be installed.
  5. not difficult if you have some experience, no experience i wouldnt try it...check for broken teeth on hour/min wheels and clutch/ratchet wheels. If any are broken you need to source a new one. and iam not familiar with this watch but is there a sub second hand or a center second hand? if so check the second hand and make sure it not binding up somewhere this could explain what i like to call the "ghost escapement" when power is applied to balance but then train gets jammed causing the escape wheel not to spin. there are other causes of this but i would rule those out since you now say its running fine and keeping accurate time. also make sure the dial is secured tight and flat to the movement, if there is any wiggle room the hour wheel could be coming off the canon pinion. this could be a simple fix. if making the dial flat and tight dont work a new hour wheel may be needed. sometimes they get damaged when someone doesnt properly remove the hands and they can be too loose and wiggle causing it to slip and/or making hour hand bob and weave up and down as you change the time causing a bind. If you cant source a new hour wheel then try adding a couple more dial washers to keep it down
  6. Iam sorry but most responses seem to be about removing the stem but correct me if iam wrong OP said it was missing a stem and he got a new one from eBay. The stem in the picture I will assume is the new one he is trying to put in. The screw HSL mentioned is the correct screw but if after a couple turns you can’t insert and/or it won’t stay in after screwing that screw back in then I will assume the keyless works are locked and to unlock them you will need to take the dial off.
  7. How did you mangle the spring? Did you do it when you removed it from the barrel? i never oil mainsprings especially new white alloys if anything I clean them if they have any emulsion on them, and this is good practice for springs going into an automatic. The only time I use lube is on blue alloy springs on old pocket watches to prevent corrosion. I know mark explains to use a very thin layer of oil but I think this is a matter of preference. I never really dealt with a used one because naturally if I remove a spring it gets replaced it’s basically a rule I have and good one I think. White alloy springs never come out of the barrel without warping. I use KD adjustable they inject the winded spring into the barrel perfect. I like them better than the ridiculously expensive Bergeon set.
  8. How did you grease the barrel and what grease did you use
  9. In order to press the arbor C into the cannon pinion D a staking set is ideal, using a punch or hammer is not the best practice since you will have to support the top of the cannon pinion and press from the head of the arbor, but your support should have a hole big enough for the conical end of the arbor to fit or basically you hammer will sandwich the arbor which will cause it to bend, but if the canon pinion is not seated correctly then you didn’t do anything to solve your problem. The arbor is already slightly bent in order to create a tight fit. Now You can go the other way around but then a punch will be needed with a hole big enough for the canon pinion to fit. If there is a jewel present it should NOT be used as a support. If you have any pegwood you can make yourself a stake. And a staking block out of a piece of wood. Micro drills come in handy here.
  10. Like the majority of the replies this is a seiko I don’t even think they are timed in even three positions from the factory. And I have on so many seikos Right out of the box they are all over the place most of the time. We can all appreciate you wanting to learn dynamic poising but as stated Is a very difficult task the movement is not a Chronometer So I would think trying to adjust in six positions Will just have you pulling your hair out. Besides the numbers you posted don’t seem all that bad for a seiko. As you move your wrist it will even out. We do have a force of nature here on earth called gravity, its the unseen demon haunting every movement known to exist. Dont fight it just wear it. Hell even the moon phases will affect timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Just want add... are you using a digital caliper? If so round down. Example if its 29.56 you can get a 29.5 just make sure you get it lined up and even before you put it on the press. If it is not sitting even with the case when you press you will expand it and possibly make a nick in one of the edges thus making it near impossible to press back in, or it may not seat and damage the ring. As long as you are not crazy about waterproofing i will suggest again .1 or even .2mm smaller since you are new at it. Glue is also always and option. UV glue is best and you will need a UV light, i use a $20 ebay uv light for curing womens nails works like a charm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I will suggest getting a GS Diver Tite crystal with tension ring if the old crystal had one which iam sure it did. If not you just remove the ring. This crystal needs to be installed with a press because these crystals are pressure fitted. Whatever you do m, do NOT go any bigger, i usually like to go .1 smaller. So 29.4 i will recommend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hello fellow watchmakers, in the photos attached you will see a white and black dial which was re lumed using pre mixed patina lume in a syringe nothing was added. It has the perfect matte powdery looking finish like vintage radium lume but color is too orange almost like a yellow ochre, i added instant coffee to the mix before application on the dial in the case, has a better color like a burnt sienna but it has a gloss to it. Iam not a fan of using varnish so I need to figure out a way to get the finish of the orange lume with a color more like burnt umber....as an artist umbers have a bit of green and them, so adding anything to the original mix gives a yellowish brown color. Radium lume looks more like burnt umber.....I was thinking of using match green tea powder with the original mix hoping it won’t add a sheen to it. When I search online all I hear about is coffee (which is usually added after application) and baking. I can’t bake a porcelain dial and coffee isn’t giving me what I need. I did hear someone using cigar ash or graphite anyone have any suggestions.....burnt umber color with a matte finish.
  14. Well it’s a porcelain dial underneath the off white part is a sticker on top of the porcelain dial, iam curious to know what kind of dial is underneath but obviously don’t wanna ruin the sticker
  15. Has anyone ever seen a sticker like this on a vintage Elgin pocket watch dial.....it def looks old and has lumed numerals, iam wondering if it was a quick fix at the time since 6s lumed dials weren’t mass produced in 1918. It is a 6s philly trench watch which was most likely used by a soldier, esp since the silverode case was oxidized, the oxidation was done manually since I have never seen a silverode case oxidize to black before, only silver cases. This was a military requirement at the time. The sticker does look like a perfect fit for the dial too. A 6s lumed Dial is extremely rare even the watch case itself is rare. Just trying to make sense of this. Just wondering if anyone has seen anything like it trying to determine whether it was Originally done in 1918 or if someone just added all this patina to get .the big bucks for it I have 3 of these and I paid much more than I did on my other 3 and they were running this one is not.
  16. Hey guys I work on a lot of wwii Elgin Waltham and Hamilton movements with sweep seconds. The hammy and Waltham’s use 6/0 aka 11.25 ligne and Elgin uses 8/0 aka 10.5 ligne.....movement holders with center pinion support are easily found in 11.5 and 10.5 but the 11.25 is impossible to find....normally I use a staking stub to support the pinion but is quite challenging trying To balance the movement with one hand while placing and pressing the second hand on With my free hand. These moving holders are quite expensive as well usually made by Bergeon and they run about $45 apiece I also come across 3/0 with sweep as well so again another hard one to find. The general consensus is that these movement holders do not come adjustable however I thought about how the hell did they do this 80 years ago And I came across a spring loaded movement holder used for smaller movements with a adjustable center opinion they are very hard to come by I ended up finding one on Dave’s watch Parts but it got lost in the mail and that was the last one he had and I’ve been looking for one ever since. So my question is does anyone have some super secret way to support a center opinion without the use of 50 different movement holders. At this point I designed one and I’m almost going to pay someone $85 to CNC one out of aluminum
  17. If you are comfortable replacing jewels then I suggest you do so, but try and get a couple size 13s you can check daveswatchparts.com
  18. Are you pressing on the lever from the dial side? If so that’s your problem. There is a hole that you can stick a needle or pointed object into from the back of the movement. The dial is held on by screws which can be located around the edges of the movement you will know them when you see them because you will see the dial feet right next to them. If you can’t get stem out then you will have to dismantle the keyless works and the hands and dial must come off in order to do that. And that will 100% need to be done if the keys are locked, can you still click the the stem in and out? And if you do get the stem loose make sure the stem is clicked in before you pull it out and do so gently so the keys don’t lock on you
  19. Hello i have a Waltham A11 spec 6/0 B from ww2. It has a center second pinion, I need to replace the CS hand so does anyone know the size so I can save myself the trouble of removing and measuring the pinion.
  20. MetalX makes strippers for different metals, I use the solution on nickel plated cases. It will remove the plating and leave the brass. I then polish the brass so it looks like gold then I replace with nickel using electrolysis. Then I polish again. Doing your own plating is very easy, chromium May require other steps in the plating process but I never dealt with it so iam not sure. But many videos on the tube in regards to metal x and electrolysis.
  21. Yes you should and makes no point in doing testing on parts and movements if they haven’t been cleaned, inspected, and serviced
  22. Did you properly clean/lube the arbor prior to testing?
  23. You can buy aftermarket hands pushers and springs all over ebay they work fine. I also found a couple movement rings as well not sure these use the spring type spacers found on the 6139s. I have one but never opened it up. The glass will be very difficult i think you can use one from a 6139 which i know spencer klein makes them. You can ask if they are compatible Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. God i hate when that happens
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