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saswatch88

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Posts posted by saswatch88


  1. check each as old hippy said but end shakes on a 3rd wheel allow a lot more play than lets say a balance or escape. you can get away with too much end shake and not loose much amplitude, too little will def not work though and will def result in a very low amp and or stop the movement. train wheels being loose is always better than too tight in my opinion


  2. On 7/6/2019 at 9:16 AM, ajdo said:

     

    Thank you for information. IWW seems to have major health issues, read information on his webiste. I wish him well!

    https://www.internationalwatchworks.com/note-from-jack

    Farvo.com unless spelled incorrectly, domain is for sale. 

    As mention in a previous post, after doing more research I found Al (Archer) on the Omega forum. He is located in CA, close enough for me. He has great reputation but most importantly, he responded to emails swiftly. 

    There are 2 sides to a profession, the “trade” and the “business” side. People may be competant in their trade but I cannot understand in 2019, professionals that do not answer emails in a timely manner; at least within 2 weeks. 

    I may be opening a cane of worms but to me it shows bad organisation, lack of professionalism and none-respect for the customer. It’s not that one needs to write letter and go to post office to mail letter anymore. I am not asking for watch professionals to get on every useless social media platform available out there but if they they have an email addess, have the respect to the customer to at least send an quick answer.

    Yes, everyone is very busy, and everyone feel they are busier than others. The trade (any trade) is only half of the equation, the other half is business, meaning the customer. 

    Fixing an object - what ever trade one is in is one thing, satisfying the customer -meant in a good way, is why clients come back for more. 

    Just my 2 cents :)

    AJ

     

     

     

    its farfo.com dont put the www. or just google farfo vintage watches ridgewood nj. archer is a memeber on teh Watchuseek forums and is very good esp when it comes to high end watches like omega. he is a certified omega repairer, not many of those around. he uses the same equipment they uses at the omega facilities. 100,000s worth of equipment


  3. research IWW international watch works - you ship the watch to him but prepare to wait a few months, he is really good and does not work on chronos. sometimes you have to ship a watch to get the best service. there is also a guy in my state NJ. Farvo.com. he does a lot of vintage watches and restorations. but he does have high end watches on his site. I used him from an old 40s breitling chronomat


  4. yes get the serial number and look it up on pocketwatchdatabase.com. its not always accurate but it will let you know the model, size, and will show images of the movement and cases as well. i have the official waltham pocket watch ID and price guide from 1976, which is 100% accurate. so get that serial # and post it


  5. sorry to tell you but you cant buy these hands from suppliers. Ebay is the way to go but try searching based on movement size instead of hole size you will get more results. plus shipping should not be too much since most sellers participate in the global shipping program which allows you to ship an item to any country outside the US for the same cost as within. The items gets shipped to an exchange center in Kentucky where they ship the item to the destination country, its great because the exchange gives you a separate tracking number once it leaves their warehouse, and the shipping time is pretty much the same. I however may have some hands, i can list them on ebay for only the postage charge and this way ill ship using the GSP, which probably be like $7. what is the size of the movement? If i dont have them i can send a link to some ebay listings


  6. 19 hours ago, RyanGreerMcGilloway said:

    Hello everyone, 

     

    I appreciate all the help you have given me!

    I have recently reassembled my seiko 7002 watch an there are some issues that need to be cleared up.


    Few bullet points below to be picked up on. 

    • The second hand stops randomly and doesn't respond till i tap the crystal,  the is ofcourse now causing a significant lack of time keeping. Also, i believe this is because of the balance insertion. When i was putting the balance in, when i was tightening it down, the balance would randomly stop and wasnt very stong. This is a new balance though. 
    • Also, the date calendar wheel slips when i turn the bezel or excessive movement and puts any date in the window.
    • There is a slight grind sometimes when i turn the crown, however, i believe this is because the end of the spine is broken and i am awaiting a new one. But this will do for the meantime. 
    • The hands a slightly bent but it allows enough clearance for turning, does anyone know how i can rectify this or bend them back.  

     

     

    1. As weasol said your problem with balance indicates an end shake problem due to a broken/bent staff pivot and/or issue with shock system. But you mentioned its a new balance so iam pretty sure its not OEM and is an aftermarket balance most likely for an NH35 chinese knock off of the 7002. These parts notoriously DO NOT mesh well with original seiko movements. They also come from the factory with major imperfections, I have seen flakes of skin under the balance cap jewel in these things. Best to find an oem or parts movement with a good balance and staff. But this could also be a problem with power reserve and the mainspring, you already stated in another post you had issues with this so i would look into that as well by checking the "action" of the pallet fork. remove the balance and (ever so gently) touch the pallet fork's safety pin with tweezers or preferably a paint brush with a couple bristols left on it, the fork should snap quickly and smoothly back and forth without any force. you should not have to push it or apply force in any way. if it seems sluggish in any direction or you have to push on it to get it to snap then that tells you that you are loosing power somewhere from the Mainspring through the train, or even the mainspring itself.

    2. date wheel slipping could be the loss of the yoke spring, the jumper is all one piece on a metal plate so highly doubt you lost that, but check to make sure jumper isnt bent or broken anyway. but my best guess is you lost the yoke spring on disassembly since they sometimes fly of when removing the date wheel under spring tension. this is very common in seiko movements. and yoke springs are always for sale on ebay, and are almost the same throughout most seiko movements.

    3. Grinding is basically what weasol said it was.

    4. if hands are bent i dont agree with weasol to use stroking action for that may warp the hands and/or remove lume. the best way is to heat a pair of smooth shank pliers or wide flat shank tweezer and press the hand in between them tightly, the heat will soften the metal and flatten it straight within seconds but this will also melt off any lume on the hands. i would wedge it between two (small) hard flat pieces of metal clamp it down firmly with a small C-clamp and leave it over night. thats the fail proof way since it will preserve the lume.


  7. On 6/14/2019 at 6:19 AM, oldhippy said:

     

    First of all Seiko barrels where made so as not to be opened. You were supposed to replace the complete unit every (I think) 5 or 7 years. Now parts are become obsolete, it is common practise to clean and lubricate the mainspring.  If you can clean the all the barrel parts including the mainspring in your watch cleaning machine. Never stretch out the spring and clean it by hand. This can cause the spring to become weak. If you do not have a watch mainspring winder, you can put the spring back by hand. Use tissue paper so your fingers do not meet with the spring. If it is an auto you should use braking grease not oil on the spring and inside the barrel. The only place to use oil is where the arbor makes contact with the barrel.

     I work a lot on seikos and old hippy is right,  for the 70XX series you can buy the MS and barrel separate now and i have never seen them sold complete. but good servicing practice is to replace the MS, esp if its been 3+ years since the last service. breaking grease is a must, i only use 8217 on manual winds. kluber makes an excellent breaking grease but cost about $65 a worthy investment if plan on working on more automatics. I dont however agree with hippy on using breaking grease on the spring, i havent heard of this before and i would imagine could decrease your amplitude, but then again old hippy knows his stuff so i could be wrong here.

    also i recommend using a MS winder for sure, you can easily warp an MS when hand winding it, and that could also cause a decrease in wind down time and amp. clean the mainspring with a dry cleaner or ultrasonic, the only time you should stretch is when applying the grease. as far as sanding goes never done it and never plan to but thats not to say it wont work.


  8. i suggest you DO NOT try and re-solder the dial it is not an easy task and if you dont have extensive soldering experience you will just damage the dial even more to where it will no longer lay flat on the movement. you can take it to a jeweler to do this.

    as far as getting a new dial. Seiko does not sell dials individually but there are plenty of aftermarket dials for the 7002, but if you are a stickler for original you can buy a parts watch or there are sellers from phillipines that sell used 7002 dials but most are pretty beat up and nice ones do just as much as parts watch so mine as well go with that. another great site is speedtimerkollektion just type that in the google search to get to their site.

    There is a good chance your dial may be aftermarket if it already is than just get the AM dial for $15


  9. 5 hours ago, Paddy1302 said:

    Could you be suspected of not being European ? LOL

    I can imagine that they don't market their products in the US (or even the UK for that matter)

    It is quite a well respected brandname here for lubricants, fine abrasives and general micro mechanical 'consumables'.

    Price-wise ..they are a bit cheaper, but not that much that it would make a difference in the long run.

    There are several other brands, I can think of a few German and Austrian ones that are very well respected in these parts and are used by professional watchmakers.

    It seems Moebius has conquered most of the market though, and indeed they make a very fine product, but it feels like we're all missing out a bit by believing there is nothing else around.

    Most of my modest supply is Moebius as well, but I am always on the look for other things too. Not because of dissatisfaction or price (they're all in the same ballpark anyway : I have never seen a cheap AND good lubricant).

    The one thing I have to give Moebius, is that their selection is complete to the extreme... they literally have a grease or oil for everything! (as far as watchmaking goes). Most other brands don't make this many distinctions... Which leads one to wonder...how much of that is true technology and how much is marketing.

    That all said, nobody has ever gone wrong BY using Moebius oils and following their recommendations ...

    Thanks for your reply man... 't is greatly appreciated !

     

    Patrick

    '

    I Live in US and i guess you are right, there really is nothing out here besides moebius, they completely cornered the market. there are other lubricants I use besides moebius and thats kluber for automatic mainspring breaking its betetr than moebius and actually cost alot more. other than that i use molykote for metal to metal friction grease. as far as the wide variety i dont believe its for marketing at all because each oil has a specific purpose and even if they make 5 oils for the same purpose they all have different properties, such as viscosity which some prefer different viscosities for different types, sizes or brand movements. I.E. 9010 and 9415 are made for the same purpose, but 9010 is an oil 9415 is a grease but liquifies into oil when there is friction. This gives that type of lubricant excellent anti spreading quality and eliminates the use of epilame on the escapement. some moebius oils will have two versions of the same oil one will have fluorescent tracers in them so they can be seen under UV light. Comes in handy when trying to see how much oil you applied, and knowing if you applied too much. so def. not a gimmick each oil is engineered to give the watch maker as much versatility as possible in the ever expanding technologies in watch making


  10. On 5/20/2019 at 9:32 AM, Moose said:

    Hello All.

    I currently use a small ultrasonic cleaner from James Products. It is about 500ml, 42kHz and about 50watts of cleaning power.

    I have been using this with warm water in it. In the water I have been using glass containers containing clean Renata Essence as the cleaning medium. After cleaning the pivot holes/jewels with peg wood, the watch parts placed are then inside the jars with the Essence. I Then run the ultrasonic for about 5 minutes and then take the jars out. The parts are then individually removed and given a blow dry (with a bulb puffer) and then stored in my parts trays until needed for re-assembly.

    My questions are:

    1 - Is this a good enough?

    2 - Would I get better results from using a proper watch cleaning fluid? (what would be recommended?)

    3 - If using a watch cleaning fluid, would I need to then use a rinse or final finish of some kind? (Again, recommendations, if yes.)

    I am looking out on t'internet for a second-hand watch cleaning machine and there are a few about sometimes, typically for around £100 for an old but useable machine. Are these likely too be good value, or am I better off with what I am doing? I'm retired (early) and only doing this as a hobby, so I have time on my hands to do things the long way, but also have a (little bit) of money for a suitable watch cleaning machine, should something come up.

    Sorry for lots of questions, but I want to do the best job I can with cleaning.

    Cheers

    Moose.

    1. NO. You need to brush all the spokes and leaves of the train wheels. Peg the jewel holes not just rub them if thats what you are doing. Use rodico after the ultrasonic to sop up any residue.

    2 + 3. Yes way better results using LR or Zenith ultrasonic cleaning products, No residue ( rinse is needed), makes the movement shine like new. It can be filtered and reused. It will cost a $100 total for a gallon of the cleaner and rinse and will last you at least a year depending on how often you service movements. Esp since they come in bottles that wont let the solution go bad. if you dont want to spend the money start using Ronsonol Lighter fluid. but use rodico on everything after the cleaning.

    Your Machine is fine, i know a lot of pros that do everything manually by hand. the old fashioned way with no cleaning machines.

     


  11. On 5/30/2019 at 11:37 AM, Paddy1302 said:

    Oh this is gold !  I must have overlooked this somehow!

    Thanks you for this.... I am already printing it!

    Since you took the effort to answer my post... any thoughts on Augusta oils?

     

    Patrick

    Never heard of augusta oils but i wouldnt use anything other than moebius unless there is another watch oil made or specified by the watch's manufacturer.


  12. 5 hours ago, Tmuir said:

    It looks like you already have gotten the help you need, but I am interested to hear about this movement as I was not aware of it as its not mentioned in any of my reference books of Elgin wristwatches used by the military.

    I have in the post coming a small collection of NOS parts for Elgin 580 and 554 military watches, and will now need to keep an eye out for a 532 too.

    I'm only really just starting to learn about American military watches, but already have a small collection of American military aircraft clocks and one naval deck clock

    the 532 was limited production for the military, only a few thousand pieces made, and they were only made for the marines with the white dial. If you google search USMC elgin 532 you will see it. I have seen black dial versions but I believe they were for civilian use. The watch was quickly replaced with the 539 since the 532 was a non hacking movement. The 539/ and other A-11 movements started the whole military hacking movement wave. It has since been the standard for any military watch.


  13. 1 hour ago, Marc said:

    I've not worked on one of these but a quick Google and the found pics show it as an indirect centre seconds movement. These almost always have a tension spring of some kind that acts on the seconds pinion to prevent the jittery motion of the seconds hand.

    Rare-Vintage-1942-ELGIN-WWII-15J-532-_57.thumb.jpg.adabdf2170dc42eb08266b9368d3ebfb.jpg

    In the above you can see circled in red a screw that passes through the centre seconds cock and appears to bear on a flat spring. My guess is that that is the tension spring and the tension is adjusted with the screw.

    try turning the screw to increase the tension on the centre seconds pinion until the jittering just stops. You may need to lubricate the contact between the spring and the pinion if you haven't already done so. The tension needs to be just enough to smooth out the motion of the hand whilst keeping loss of amplitude to a minimum (there will be some loss, it's unavoidable).

    did not think of that. great will try this out and update the post


  14. On 5/21/2019 at 6:48 AM, mikepilk said:

    I can't figure out that double wheel. It looks like both wheels mesh with the sweep second pinion! 

    I managed to get a new balance quite cheaply. The problem was finding the part number. 

    Have a look here, basically the same movement and good amplitude 

    https://mitka.co.uk/2019/05/20/service-citizen-150m-diver-68-5372/#more-12743

    Citizens dont always yield the best amplitudes but none the less 180-200 is still too low - if both movements were serviced with no broken jewels or excess wear and they both dont have good amp then like any experiment we have to see what was the constant here. The barrel and mainspring right, so an educated guess would say there lies your problem. This is the beauty of having two movements to work with. I know you posted on this before about ordering a new mainspring and barrel, and if i recall the one that was pulled was a stronger strength than the OEM one. Then there was an issue with breaking grease, correct me if iam wrong here.

    I would say this: It was very common for old watchmakers to replace mainsprings with one that had a higher strength to account for amplitude issues due to wear, i work on old pocket watches and you will find that there are mainsprings designed for the same movement with usually 3-4 different strengths available from the factory. When I service a 50-100 year old movement i replace it with a mainspring that is at least 2/100th stronger than what was in there originally. try that, if that dont work then my next guess would be the hairspring, they too wear down and loose strength over the years, but a stronger MS should help with that as well but how much in your case i wouldnt know.


  15.  

    I have an Elgin 532 produced from 39-44. It’s a non hacking military movement which was the predecessor of the 539. I serviced the movement, and reassembled. Watch ticks great but second hand is very jittery it doesn’t sweep as it should. Center wheel and pinion looked fine. I also made sure sweep bridge screw was tightened. The second hand is secured to the pinion, it’s not loose at all. When it ticks I can see the center wheel turning smoothly so I can’t understand why the hand would act like it’s loose. And last but not least the hand is not hitting anything it’s acts the same way out of the case and is spaced well enough away from the minute hand any ideas?


  16. automatic oilers definitely help when it comes to oiling but you can do the same job with regular oilers. its like driving a mercedes instead of a chevy they will both get you where your going but one will be a smoother ride because there is more bells and whistles. Personally I agree with clockboy with only the 1A really being worth it. I like it because it makes servicing quicker, guarantees correct oil amount, and fits perfectly in jewel holes. Not to mention keeping the oil safe from contamination. 


  17. not sure but seems like you have to measure the diameter and collet bore, then select material. My concern would be the stud, guessing you have to attach the old stud to the new spring. seems like too much of a hassle. there are plenty of working movements on ebay for $30 or less. I have two of them if you need one

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