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Posts posted by saswatch88

  1. If the watch is stopping on the dime at certain positions it could be a bent down staff but it could also be that the balance wheel is hitting something. Whether it be the safety roller on the pallet fork or bent center wheel. What I would do is remove everything from the Movement install the balance and see if it spins freely without any interruption and all of the positions. Then go on to install the pallet fork do the same thing. If it stops on a dime and then you know it’s the pallet fork or at least the bridge may have a broken Jewel or a worn down pivot hole. If it’s fine then remove the pallet for it and install the center wheel with the bridge. Spin the balance with a puff of air and gently twist the center wheel with your finger if it any point it touches the balance and you know that’s the spot that needs to be adjusted. But some thing tells me one of the pinions may be loose or one of the leaves broken which could explain why the hands don’t move when the balance is swinging. Or pallet stones are worn down and not lock and exiting the escape wheel. Does the escape move when balance goes back and forth. Another thing is mainspring is the winding loose? There are many things that could be possibly wrong with this move in but these are the things to check.

  2. 11 hours ago, jaycey said:

    Guys I could really do with some help tracking down or purchasing a pallet fokr for an Elgin 562 (also used in the 546 & 542 Calibre)

    If anyone has one please let me know.


    Alternatively, there is this movement https://www.ebay.com/itm/Elgin-562-8Days-Parts-Movement/184002298464?hash=item2ad7644260:g:vfoAAOSwt6RdrGMN

    I can see from the pictures the pallets are present but the seller is unwilling to ship to the UK.

    I would be more than willing to send the money to a member (respected) in the USA to purchase for me. Remove the pallets and just send me them. 

    If anyone can help me, I would be happy to pay a little for their time and effort getting me the pallets.


    Many thanks.

    I would be willing to purchase the movement for you. If you want message me and we can exchange information.I would be willing to purchase the movement for you. If you want message me and we can exchange information.

  3. 11 hours ago, Tipsy said:

    I thought these where the dimensions:

    L 43.5 mm, H 1.01mm, Thickness .10mm 

    1.01mm high makes me wonder if a 1.05 would work (note that I have no experience with the 6139 or 6138).

    You never want to go higher in height. Seiko sells the barrel complete with spring this is your best bet plus saves you the trouble of ruining a MS while trying to install it since you are a novice and would assume you dont have a MS winder. But If you dont want to spend the money then you can get aftermarket but not one that is any higher unless you want it rub on the barrel lids and cause a major problem in amp and power reserve.

  4. On 12/7/2019 at 3:31 AM, VWatchie said:

    I’ve been doing this for some years now but like @centerwheel I’m still puzzled by how to lubricate when reusing an automatic mainspring. When I have a new spring delivered in a spacer there’s no problem. I simply lubricate the barrel wall (Moebius 8217/Kluber P125, etc.) and push the spring in as it comes pre-lubricated.

    However, I don’t know the technique for reusing an automatic mainspring as lubricating the spring, say with Moebius 8200, would "contaminate" the outer coil resting against the barrel wall and likely defeat or interfere with the braking effect of the braking oil (I suppose?).

    Furthermore, and in my personal experience, trying to wind a perfectly clean and dry spring into the barrel of my mainspring winder (K&D 128) without first lubricating it will make the spring break (read explode!). So, for this reason I never reuse automatic mainsprings, and it really seems like a waste.


    Come to think of it, it could be that the "exploding" mainspring was somehow damaged, but to the best of my recollection is was not. Or, it could be that the inner wall of my particular mainspring winder barrel causes too much friction. Well, I'm still puzzled...

    a new mainspring is always needed when doing a service/overhaul. new alloy mainsprings come with a dry lube so you may think they are not lubed but they are, . if you reusing a mainspring which i do not recommend then you have to clean off the old oil first if there is any and then use a piece of watch paper coated with oil then put it between tweezers and run the spring through it. I cant recommend an oil because i have never reused a spring but i can say it wont be 8200 since it is a natural oil and can spread and contaminate your barrel and movement. there really is NO reason to oil a mainspring except for maybe rust protection when dealing with very old NOS blue steel springs, or if the manufacturer specifies. I personally never oil automatic springs since most automatics i work on are modern and use white alloy springs, which again already come pre lubed. Some springs have a teflon coating which looks blue that will have to be removed prior to install to prevent emulsion from forming. Has anyone tested the power reserve in auto with dry spring vs one that has a lubed spring? Do that then decide for yourself

  5. sorry to say this but this spring is not good to my standards. The spring should lay flat even if its not in the movement. it may have been stretched out at some point like a slinky making an arc (happens when its held upside down by the cock and balance slips out of the pivot hanging over the cock) and therefore the spring is not centered under the pivot. attach to the foot and hold it up letting balance hang. when looking at directly above the cock the coils should be centered under the cock hole jewel and wheel should be lay at parallel, if it looks like its off to the right or left or balance is titled then the hairspring is warped. this is most likely your issue and will explain why its running so fast. 

  6. 26 minutes ago, jdm said:

    I don't think it's fine for any amount of time, because incidents can happen at any time.

    Also, what I do when I disassemble for cleaning is that parts go straight from the mov't to the mesh tray. And balance and tack go to a dedicated small glass container. That minimize the chances of dropping parts during and saves a bit of time also.

    i guess you never heard of vibrating hairsprings and adjusting beat error

  7. 18 minutes ago, jdm said:

    It should not but it could, plus it leave the most delicate part exposed to dust and external events, I have no knowledge of any good reason for an hairsping to not lie flat during its entire life. So it's sound and good advice that cock and balance are put spring up  in a small box or in the covered tray. 

    for extended periods of time yes it could but during a cleaning its perfectly fine. its good practice to keep all or any exposed watch parts under a lid while re assembling. i have a parts tray that comes with a lid and a small plastic shot glass i use to put over the balance tack.

  8. 20 minutes ago, jdm said:

    No need to get a full blown tool if chances are it will be used 2 times in life. Especially on old watches rotating bezel are generally quite lose.
    A Seiko style case knife is $2, I got all 4 just because. 


    i personally like the ones that are not hand held, simple because it limits the chance of slips which could damage a case. they have a 4 bladed one which os great because its lifts the bezel of evenly, which is best for bezels that dont have a little indent to get under it. the single bladed one is the same as what you posted, and you can change the blades.

  9. some pocket watches have stems attached to the movement, the square ended (male end) of the stem connect to movement and then connects into the female part of the stem which is attached to the case with a stem sleeve. not sure thats the case here, but def turn the screw and as you pull twist the crown back and forth like you are winding it. dont pull too hard or you will lock the keys and then you may have to do a complete teardown to reset them. I would frown upon using penetrating oil if you arent experienced enough or have the necessary cleaning supplies and solvents to get all of it off.

    other option: remove hands, then remove the dial by turning two screws (located by balance and between bridges) half a turn, then poke through the holes next to them to pop out the dial feet (the copper things you see in the holes). unscrew stem screw all the way out, the little lever that holds stem in pace will fall out and stem should come out with ease.

  10. check each as old hippy said but end shakes on a 3rd wheel allow a lot more play than lets say a balance or escape. you can get away with too much end shake and not loose much amplitude, too little will def not work though and will def result in a very low amp and or stop the movement. train wheels being loose is always better than too tight in my opinion

  11. On 7/6/2019 at 9:16 AM, ajdo said:


    Thank you for information. IWW seems to have major health issues, read information on his webiste. I wish him well!


    Farvo.com unless spelled incorrectly, domain is for sale. 

    As mention in a previous post, after doing more research I found Al (Archer) on the Omega forum. He is located in CA, close enough for me. He has great reputation but most importantly, he responded to emails swiftly. 

    There are 2 sides to a profession, the “trade” and the “business” side. People may be competant in their trade but I cannot understand in 2019, professionals that do not answer emails in a timely manner; at least within 2 weeks. 

    I may be opening a cane of worms but to me it shows bad organisation, lack of professionalism and none-respect for the customer. It’s not that one needs to write letter and go to post office to mail letter anymore. I am not asking for watch professionals to get on every useless social media platform available out there but if they they have an email addess, have the respect to the customer to at least send an quick answer.

    Yes, everyone is very busy, and everyone feel they are busier than others. The trade (any trade) is only half of the equation, the other half is business, meaning the customer. 

    Fixing an object - what ever trade one is in is one thing, satisfying the customer -meant in a good way, is why clients come back for more. 

    Just my 2 cents :)





    its farfo.com dont put the www. or just google farfo vintage watches ridgewood nj. archer is a memeber on teh Watchuseek forums and is very good esp when it comes to high end watches like omega. he is a certified omega repairer, not many of those around. he uses the same equipment they uses at the omega facilities. 100,000s worth of equipment

  12. research IWW international watch works - you ship the watch to him but prepare to wait a few months, he is really good and does not work on chronos. sometimes you have to ship a watch to get the best service. there is also a guy in my state NJ. Farvo.com. he does a lot of vintage watches and restorations. but he does have high end watches on his site. I used him from an old 40s breitling chronomat

  13. yes get the serial number and look it up on pocketwatchdatabase.com. its not always accurate but it will let you know the model, size, and will show images of the movement and cases as well. i have the official waltham pocket watch ID and price guide from 1976, which is 100% accurate. so get that serial # and post it

  14. sorry to tell you but you cant buy these hands from suppliers. Ebay is the way to go but try searching based on movement size instead of hole size you will get more results. plus shipping should not be too much since most sellers participate in the global shipping program which allows you to ship an item to any country outside the US for the same cost as within. The items gets shipped to an exchange center in Kentucky where they ship the item to the destination country, its great because the exchange gives you a separate tracking number once it leaves their warehouse, and the shipping time is pretty much the same. I however may have some hands, i can list them on ebay for only the postage charge and this way ill ship using the GSP, which probably be like $7. what is the size of the movement? If i dont have them i can send a link to some ebay listings

  15. 19 hours ago, RyanGreerMcGilloway said:

    Hello everyone, 


    I appreciate all the help you have given me!

    I have recently reassembled my seiko 7002 watch an there are some issues that need to be cleared up.

    Few bullet points below to be picked up on. 

    • The second hand stops randomly and doesn't respond till i tap the crystal,  the is ofcourse now causing a significant lack of time keeping. Also, i believe this is because of the balance insertion. When i was putting the balance in, when i was tightening it down, the balance would randomly stop and wasnt very stong. This is a new balance though. 
    • Also, the date calendar wheel slips when i turn the bezel or excessive movement and puts any date in the window.
    • There is a slight grind sometimes when i turn the crown, however, i believe this is because the end of the spine is broken and i am awaiting a new one. But this will do for the meantime. 
    • The hands a slightly bent but it allows enough clearance for turning, does anyone know how i can rectify this or bend them back.  



    1. As weasol said your problem with balance indicates an end shake problem due to a broken/bent staff pivot and/or issue with shock system. But you mentioned its a new balance so iam pretty sure its not OEM and is an aftermarket balance most likely for an NH35 chinese knock off of the 7002. These parts notoriously DO NOT mesh well with original seiko movements. They also come from the factory with major imperfections, I have seen flakes of skin under the balance cap jewel in these things. Best to find an oem or parts movement with a good balance and staff. But this could also be a problem with power reserve and the mainspring, you already stated in another post you had issues with this so i would look into that as well by checking the "action" of the pallet fork. remove the balance and (ever so gently) touch the pallet fork's safety pin with tweezers or preferably a paint brush with a couple bristols left on it, the fork should snap quickly and smoothly back and forth without any force. you should not have to push it or apply force in any way. if it seems sluggish in any direction or you have to push on it to get it to snap then that tells you that you are loosing power somewhere from the Mainspring through the train, or even the mainspring itself.

    2. date wheel slipping could be the loss of the yoke spring, the jumper is all one piece on a metal plate so highly doubt you lost that, but check to make sure jumper isnt bent or broken anyway. but my best guess is you lost the yoke spring on disassembly since they sometimes fly of when removing the date wheel under spring tension. this is very common in seiko movements. and yoke springs are always for sale on ebay, and are almost the same throughout most seiko movements.

    3. Grinding is basically what weasol said it was.

    4. if hands are bent i dont agree with weasol to use stroking action for that may warp the hands and/or remove lume. the best way is to heat a pair of smooth shank pliers or wide flat shank tweezer and press the hand in between them tightly, the heat will soften the metal and flatten it straight within seconds but this will also melt off any lume on the hands. i would wedge it between two (small) hard flat pieces of metal clamp it down firmly with a small C-clamp and leave it over night. thats the fail proof way since it will preserve the lume.

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