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saswatch88

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Everything posted by saswatch88

  1. i have the timegrapher app is complete utter garbage, esp if you are using the headphones as the amp. spend $150 and get a cheap timegrapher 1000, they work well for the price and are suitable for the beginner. the double clicking sound is it only in certain positions? worn down pallet pivots/balance staff, broken balance/pallet pivot jewels, bent staff, mis-shaped or untrue balance wheel can cause the safety roller to rub against the pallet in certain positions and can sound like double clicking. Does the extra click sound a little louder like metal on metal grinding?
  2. The slope of the dots shows the rate. If its gaining it will slant up if its loosing time it will slant down, i would prefer to see a slight slant going up but the more straight it is the better the rate is the dots stand for beat, the closer they are the less the beat error the farther apart they are the higher the beat error. Sometimes beat error can get screwy if you are not in a very silent place when timing the watch, also make sure its secure and laying evenly on the amp. The amplitude looks good i would expect to see a lower amp at dial crown up/down. 270 is best but your pretty much right there. So beat error could be machine picking up sounds and rate de-escalation could mean the balance needs to be regulated. beat error- check roller jewel at a rest without pallet installed. The jewel should lay perfectly in the middle of the two bank pins. You don’t need to adjust the roller since the as1951 has a balance stud. Turn the stud until roller rests in the middle of the pins. This should also help with rate too if your power reserve in the MS is fine. But if doesn’t then the problem lies in the mainspring which could def be the issue here since you didn’t replace the spring which is needed every time an service/overhaul is done. This is just the most common resolutions to your issues but there could be other deep seeded underlying issues such as improper oiling, side shakes/end shakes, etc. also never oil the pallet pivots.
  3. Yea like nickel said your gunna need a lot more than just a solution. But you should try this stuff, its called metal rescue. Home Depot has it, i use it for old rusted motorcycle parts since it is a rust remover. It works amazing on rust its all natural non toxic and safe for anything besides rust. I once used it to clean out a carb filled with gas varnish. I used it with an ultrasonic and left in the solution over night, the next day the carb looked like factory new, and all the varnish was liquified, jets were clear as a whistle . I have since used this product on rusted movements and it works very well and restores shine, I would try metal X its only $13 for pint and its totally safe to use. If you don’t have an ultrasonic then let the movement sit in it overnight.
  4. I wish i knew an app that works well, i downloaded a few and they all stink. I finally splurged and got myself a timegrapher 5000.
  5. Well I’d like to know what autos your wearing that have a 72 hour power reserve, does it come with 5.7lt Hemi mainspring, lol. I would agree with you on the mainspring if we lived in a perfect world but we don’t, the eta 2824 has a 38hr power reserve i happen to own quite a few most were purchased brand new, i can wear them for months even in my sleep and being very active as I am running, walking, working, etc the most i get out of them is maybe 24-30 hrs, and that’s on a new movement. Even though you are wearing the watch and the rotor is turning, the watch is still running therefore its consuming the energy as you input it, so suffices to say it impossible to fully wind a watch on just motion alone. There are other things to take into account as well, not just motion but also temperature. But we wont get into that.
  6. the watch was serviced, not manually wound then purposely not worn overnight to check the wind down time, so if you ask me habits did change esp since he was sick and was not moving much. Now if he manually wound it and it did not run overnight then i would say without a doubt there is an issue with the service. I don’t think its wise to just automatically jump to service as the culprit, I like to give the professionals the benefit of the doubt. BTW Bauertime sorry for your loss - you will be in my prayers tonight
  7. they can be manually wound as well and for a reason, for example the eta 2824 which is used in many automatics today. iam wearing a deep blue eta 2824 as i write this. movement will spin the rotor which automatically keeps the mainspring wound but unless you are taking an aerobics class 24/7 there is know way to fully wind an auto such as the 2824 just by motion alone. SO it relies on a manual wind and then motion keeps it wound (by rotor) up to the point where you initially wound it manually. does that make sense.
  8. In order for an automatic to run for longer periods or to its full potential it needs to start with a full wind. Not sure what the watch went through in the last 10 years but it sounds like the movement is operating as it should. It could have been in the last 10 years it started with a full wind and he consistently wore it for 10 years? Or did he ever manually wind it? Did he always wear it when sleeping? If so how many times in 10 years? These questions may not have answers but could explain the difference. Movement is def a big part of the winding process in an auto watch, it is within it self a form of winding, which is why they sell automatic winding watch cases. So by not manually winding and not wearing it while sleeping and purposely leaving sitting for long periods to see what the reserve is will all play a part in this.
  9. How long did it sit for? How long did it run for after you shook it? Are you winding it enough? Most people don’t fully wind their mechanical watches not sure how many revolutions is considered fully wound on this movement but if you are only winding it 10 revolutions it does not have much power reserve, the mainspring will stop the balance prematurely (eta 6497 has 46hr reserve) but the mainspring will still have enough tension left on it so that if “motion” aka shaking is used to get the balance swinging it will start to run again. That shaking motion transfers energy to the balance which is somewhat prolonged by the little energy that is still stored in the spring. When their is low power reserve your amplitude drops and the watch will tick faster. Trying winding it 5 more revolutions and check your results. If you are fully winding it and its stopping in a few hours then y shaking its running again for another few hours then i would assume something is jamming up the transfer of power, most likely located somewhere in the balance or escapement, but could really be anywhere. It is a Chinese. Movement and the quality control is horrible. These movements come with many contaminants right out of the factory. Some have actually been faulty,
  10. Just go on ebay and buy a parts movement preferably one with a good balance, then just use the baseplate and balance. Or find one that already runs
  11. I have found NOS complete barrels on ebay but they come from the japanese market. Not always available but they do pop up from time to time. Some of the aftermarket springs dont come with a washer that inside diameter fits the barrel.
  12. If the watch is stopping on the dime at certain positions it could be a bent down staff but it could also be that the balance wheel is hitting something. Whether it be the safety roller on the pallet fork or bent center wheel. What I would do is remove everything from the Movement install the balance and see if it spins freely without any interruption and all of the positions. Then go on to install the pallet fork do the same thing. If it stops on a dime and then you know it’s the pallet fork or at least the bridge may have a broken Jewel or a worn down pivot hole. If it’s fine then remove the pallet for it and install the center wheel with the bridge. Spin the balance with a puff of air and gently twist the center wheel with your finger if it any point it touches the balance and you know that’s the spot that needs to be adjusted. But some thing tells me one of the pinions may be loose or one of the leaves broken which could explain why the hands don’t move when the balance is swinging. Or pallet stones are worn down and not lock and exiting the escape wheel. Does the escape move when balance goes back and forth. Another thing is mainspring is the winding loose? There are many things that could be possibly wrong with this move in but these are the things to check.
  13. I would be willing to purchase the movement for you. If you want message me and we can exchange information.I would be willing to purchase the movement for you. If you want message me and we can exchange information.
  14. You never want to go higher in height. Seiko sells the barrel complete with spring this is your best bet plus saves you the trouble of ruining a MS while trying to install it since you are a novice and would assume you dont have a MS winder. But If you dont want to spend the money then you can get aftermarket but not one that is any higher unless you want it rub on the barrel lids and cause a major problem in amp and power reserve.
  15. a new mainspring is always needed when doing a service/overhaul. new alloy mainsprings come with a dry lube so you may think they are not lubed but they are, . if you reusing a mainspring which i do not recommend then you have to clean off the old oil first if there is any and then use a piece of watch paper coated with oil then put it between tweezers and run the spring through it. I cant recommend an oil because i have never reused a spring but i can say it wont be 8200 since it is a natural oil and can spread and contaminate your barrel and movement. there really is NO reason to oil a mainspring except for maybe rust protection when dealing with very old NOS blue steel springs, or if the manufacturer specifies. I personally never oil automatic springs since most automatics i work on are modern and use white alloy springs, which again already come pre lubed. Some springs have a teflon coating which looks blue that will have to be removed prior to install to prevent emulsion from forming. Has anyone tested the power reserve in auto with dry spring vs one that has a lubed spring? Do that then decide for yourself
  16. typo** meant to say mixing chinese dial for eta movement. you thought you had me on that one. lol
  17. the problem is your mixing chinese movement with a dial made for an eta which is also probably chinese. It most likely a fluke since eta 2824 is 100% a 4 feet dial. if you cant get it to fit by only cutting one then i would return the dial. You can always use adhesive dots but that may require you to use two dial spacers instead of 1.
  18. caskerco and esslingers has assortments fairly cheap, i would get plastic this way you can make minor adjustments
  19. only 1 side? when thinking of it as North South East West. it would be to sides the expand and contract
  20. sorry to say this but this spring is not good to my standards. The spring should lay flat even if its not in the movement. it may have been stretched out at some point like a slinky making an arc (happens when its held upside down by the cock and balance slips out of the pivot hanging over the cock) and therefore the spring is not centered under the pivot. attach to the foot and hold it up letting balance hang. when looking at directly above the cock the coils should be centered under the cock hole jewel and wheel should be lay at parallel, if it looks like its off to the right or left or balance is titled then the hairspring is warped. this is most likely your issue and will explain why its running so fast.
  21. i guess you never heard of vibrating hairsprings and adjusting beat error
  22. for extended periods of time yes it could but during a cleaning its perfectly fine. its good practice to keep all or any exposed watch parts under a lid while re assembling. i have a parts tray that comes with a lid and a small plastic shot glass i use to put over the balance tack.
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