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Everything posted by eezy

  1. Am I the only one that has difficulty at times, navigating their website?
  2. I have my late father's Cyma WWW that he was issued with in 1945. He wore it most everyday after that for about 40 years, working as a builder. The black pigskin strap is still serviceable although has a small piece of leather glued over a crack on the inside. I never saw him clean it or use any leather treatment.
  3. Thank you Marc. That's more info than I found. So it is a separate company to Dubois Depraz but not a copy
  4. I searched Depraz a few weeks ago and could not find any reference. There was an ad on ebay for a watch. It was priced £10 and did not sell. I found a lot of ref to Dubois-Depraz which if I remember right was more of a high end movement. So I came to the conclusion it was a cheap knock off. Can't confirm that though.
  5. As a general first rule I ignore anything with military images on the watch face. Not that I've got several thousands to spend on a watch
  6. Could not afford Coca Cola as kids so used to nick Dad's HP brown sauce - same effect.
  7. I don't think it would be a problem, at least not one that I've encountered. Most of these cheap Chinese pocket watches have tiny movements. I tend to use Miyota since they are only a couple of pounds and I can be sure of finding hands to fit. I'm not sure about Andy's idea of gluing the dial. OK you can adjust the thickness of glue to bring your crown in line, but in my experience the problem is gauging the void between the hour wheel and dial. Too big a gap and the hour wheel disengages if you tip it upside down. This is a novelty pocket watch bought for my birthday.
  8. It does, yes, even down to the lightly brushed finish on top of the case. Is the Nino a screw back as well?
  9. The case is unmarked, looks new. Has a screw back also. It's my ''play with'' watch as the movement was knackered.
  10. Another Henry S. Don't know if the dial is genuine or not.
  11. I'm pretty certain that no Russian watches were ever issued to their armed forces, or any watches for that matter. Vostok were the appointed supplier I think, but they were supplied to their equivalent of the NAAFI to be purchased privately. So it is not an issued watch. Other nations also adopted this policy, Portugal (Berlan), India (HMT) etc
  12. On top of the module in the centre is the wheel and pinion which the hour hand attaches to. Usually nothing holds that in place but a dial washer. In my case using a convex dial, I have a gap there which allows the wheel to come out of mesh when it is tipped up. My gap is bigger than the washer so I need to make a deeper one to make it up.
  13. Probably stating the obvious, but a couple of errors I've made with my own current project. I'm using a convex dial and a Miyota 2033 which obviously will not sit flat against the underside of the dial, so I used dial dots. As luck would have it, the dial dots bring the module into line with the stem. The problem I have is I need to shim the unknown gap between the dial and the hour wheel to stop it disengaging when it is turned over. I might try a bit of rodico in the gap and try and measure it. I don't like the idea of placing a spacer under the case back in case something gets squashed and distorted. I would have thought a close fitting mov't ring and the stem would hold things in place.
  14. Yes but mine is this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600X-3-6MP-USB-Digital-Microscope-4-3-Display-LCD-Electronic-HD-Video-Stand-Kit/183572621415?epid=21026543881&hash=item2abdc7e867:g:kdMAAOSwM7Fcqz8d Using it as in the pic, you are working on the small base area. If you turn the whole lot around as if you are looking at the back and then turn the screen and scope around to face you, you are not restricted to working on that small base. At that though it will be top heavy so you need to place a counter balance weight on the little base to stop it falling over. I also work off a piece of yellow card marked with datum lines so I can focus the scope and place tiny parts exactly in the spot under the scope. If that doesn't help I'll have to set it up and post a pic. (Nearly forgot to add the pics, video and battery life are excellent. Reckon my battery lasts about 6 hours)
  15. I have considered an old pocket watch conversion project but one thing stops me - nickel poisoning! Most old pocket watches are nickel or if you pay more, silver or maybe gold. I doubt if you would want to potentially destroy a gold watch though. If I wear a nickel watch, within the hour I have a severe rash all the way up my arm and within a couple of days it starts to bleed. Takes about a month to clear up. I think I am an extreme case though.
  16. I have the cheap Chinese version with digital screen. It works well for me but I spin the scope 180 degrees so that I'm working off the table rather than the little base. This makes it top heavy so I have a tin of lead shot on the base to balance it. I usually use an A4 sheet of card with a couple of datum points marked on it to place the job on so that I don't have to move tiny parts around trying to get them under the scope.
  17. I think I would put it on a 4 in 1 tester and see what it does in ''line free'' mode.
  18. My idea of a Franken is something which is put together to deceive. If the alterations are disclosed I don't see a problem. It's then up to a potential buyer to decide if he wants it or not.
  19. I use the windscreen suction mount off my Garmin satnav
  20. It's an AS movement. TR is Ebauches Trust the forerunner of Ebauches SA, ETA, and in simplified terms was an umbrella organisation for most Ebauches makers in the old days. AS was a founder member. There's loads about Ebauches SA if you google it, all gets a bit complicated.
  21. Actually I was trying to work out if I could use the top off a vodka bottle.
  22. I've used old CD's in the past to make temporary crystals or patterns. No cost. I've got a habit of hanging CD's outside (don't ask)...After a while the coating drops off and my CD's are laminated of 2 parts. Again after being out they separate. I would think if you put them in hot water for a while it would do the same. You are left with 2 thin clear plastic discs, easily cut with scissors. If it goes wrong bin it and cut another. You'd get a few crystals from a CD.
  23. Yes but those washers are so thin that 1 won't make much difference. I've since had a thought that I could put another wavy washer on the other way up and that should work. I could shim it with anything but it's about calculating the size of the gap.
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