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Everything posted by Wdc

  1. Can anyone point me in the direction of a Citizens 8110A Service Manual? I have been poking around the web but have not come up with a full manual. I have found someone selling 17-page PDF 8110A manual on ebay which I can buy but hate to if it can be found somewhere in the public domain. Just finishing up the restoration on a 8110-9011 Bullhead (Panda), whereas the movement is in clean, I notice the balance stopping in some positions so I would like to do a strip-down and service. It would be nice to have the full manual with schematics. Thanks in advance, Will
  2. Can anyone tell me who the USA supplier for GR springs are? I am trying to find a mainspring for Seiko 6139 which of coarse are discontinued. I have found a GR chart and matched the demention to a GR8 code and now looking for a supplier. MS INFO Seiko 6139 A/B mainspring measurements Type: X (Auto - welded brae spring) Length: 425mm Width: 1.03mm Thickness: 0.12mm Barrel ID: 11.mm Strength: ? Based on measurements ( GR Code: RA1S04958, GR Ref:: 2534-X
  3. Wdc

    Generale ressorts 2 reference

    Found it. One has to first register with Cousins b4 you can download.
  4. Thank you, got it. BTW also figured out you go to post, top right, a pull down, opt out of notifications
  5. How does one turn off a post notifitation to stop receiving emails on a thread?
  6. Thanks for your input. I have been following the springs offered by schillachi61 and will use him as a backstop. I'm not in a bind on this one as I had a spair, just looking to replace it. BTW, there is some good info in his sale. It appears the following models use the same MS "Seiko 6105, 6306, 6309, 6117, 6106, 6119, 6118, 6319, Mainspring" PN 414615. The 6139, 6138 Seiko BOM calls for PN 414616, but he claims it works and I assume it's the same. After watching @Mark video on measuring and ID'ing a MS using a the GR catalog, I was able to find the catalog online and find the GR code. Now, with the code (GR Code: RA1S04958, GR Ref:: 2534-X) who supplies GR spings by code number? I would think valume repair shops are going somewhere to order MS by dimensions & config. The difference in cost would be $3-5 vs $30. Thanks again
  7. Wdc

    Generale ressorts 2 reference

    Would you have the link? I have searched Cousin a couple times and cannot find there electronic GR Mainspring catalog. The ref C035 is referencing the hard copy. thanks
  8. Does anyone have experience or knowledge if 100% Lacquer Thinner will hurt watch parts as part of a cleaning routine? Excluding of course plastic parts or the pallet fork. I have been using it for years a a strong solvent for tough cleaning and I know it will not hurt metal, ferrous or non-ferrous but I am not sure about the synthetic jewels. I have been using the following regiment, right or wrong. 10min - 100% Lacquer Thinner soak (cut grease & grime 30 mins – ultrasonic in water 4-5 cups, dish detergent 2TBS, Ammonia 1 cup 5 mins - 91% alcohol rinse Reason I ask is I am thinking to skip step 2 water, ammonia and add 100% Lacquer Thinner into my stainless ultrasonic cleaner. So how many gasp & shrieks do I hear out there?
  9. As always thanks for the advice. A couple quick qualifications I was estimating at the quantities in my #2 solution. I generally pour everything into a bucket and dump it into the cleaner. I may have estimated my Ammonia a bit high likely somewhere between ½-1 cup. I do understand there is a diminishing return where brass will tarnish black. Thankfully I discovered this on tools not watch parts, something easily buffed out. This discussion has uncovered a BIG oversight on my part, the “Pallet Wheel Jewel” . the whole reason I leave out the pallet fork is the jewel and shellac. Point taken on a shortening the alcohol rinse. It may even be good practice to stop re-attaching the balance to the bottom plate and running it though the Ultrasonic cleaner (USC) as I have seen many do. Dip the balance and HS into a solvent to degrease, quick alcohol rinse and call it good. I like an alcohol rinse because of the quick evaporation and at 91% there is very little water to corrode and/or stain. Hit it with a little defused hot air from a heat-gun and it’s almost instantaneous. Whereas everyone has a good point @vinn3 raises an important on solvent classifications polar and nonpolar. I am sure Lacquer Thinner (LT) falls into polar along with alcohol. I’ll need to do more research on the two categories to understand them better and ID what fall where. In closing I would like to say that @oldhippy point is well taken. After doing more research on watch cleaning solutions, including Lacquer Thinner on a number of watch sites, it is clear this can be a charged subject. Ironically, I did find someone that writes he’s been using LT for year with great results but he did warn, "do not to run it in the USC and heat it". Heating it is common since and my experience is you don’t need to, it degreases fast at room temp. Lastly @Nucejoe had a good point, run some test. When I decided to take up this hobby, I purchased 65 misc. movements, so I have plenty to test with. Sometimes the proof is in the pudding…lol Thanks again to all
  10. @Nucejoe, To late on the chrono push buttons, those came out last week while refurbishing the case & likes. Noted on the c-clips hopefully they stay. If they do need replaced is a supplier for these? Also, roger on the keyless, chrono and photos. I’ve always been a big photo taker (the bread crumb back), there cheap and quick to delete. The fact is, I‘m almost embarrassed to disclose the number photo taken on this strip-down, 244…lol That by the number of parts and the ratio is pretty high lol Not sure why, but I was a bit nervous going into his one and played to caution. As a novice this 8110A Citizen seamed a bit more complex then the Seiko 6139’s I’ve been focusing on. Well thanks again, Will PS one thing I could use advice. I did not completely disassemble the bottom side of the “upper end escape wheel bridge” photo directly below. Does not look like much on it, thinking it would clean assembled. Your thoughts
  11. No need for sorry, this was all my bad. John had responded in plenty of time, the problem was LEFT on the brain. I moved from the keyboard to the ratchet gear and turned to the left to loosen, Wrong! Fortunately, only the barrel arbor and I’ve already fished it out. The piller wheel went fine when turning to the RIGHT. Only loss was the screw and the parts are in the cleaner now. Thanks again to all
  12. Well had left hand on the brain so what did I do, turned to the LEFT Now to get the broken off screw out of the barrel arbor and find a LH screw. Damn
  13. Thank you, I suspected as much but thought best to ask.
  14. @Nucejoe Hello Joe, having experience stripping down several 8110A movements. Can you tell me if to two screws in the photo below are left hand thread? There is no mention of LH in the BOM or schematic, but I have had an experience (a bad one) with these three grooved screw heads on a Seiko. I pretty much have the Cal stripped ready for the washer, but though I better phause and reach out before making a mistake I regret. The screws are: Ratchet Wheel and Piller Wheel Thanks in advance, Will
  15. Any advice before I jump-in to reattach this regulator to the balance cock. I see it is split on the end and I assume you start at one end and work your way around with a screwdriver or the likes, levering it into the groove. My concern looking at the width of the split-ring is that it is not going to have much give in the direction needed to open the ring. May be overthinking this, but thought I would ask. Thanks in advance, Will PS: I should probably remove the hairspring from the regulator to make sure there are no kinks in the spring. It was banged around a lot by a dis-attached oscillating weight in the case.
  16. Thank you all, let the stip-down begin
  17. Wishful thinking on my part I guess. Hoping you knew of a new Dip & Dry cleaner...lol
  18. Thanks to all, I have been able to find all the Daishock ASSY parts new stock in the UK. There is likely a US supplier but this was the first to come up and reasonably priced. http://mehima-singh.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1746 Also good to learn that "That you can take from any 6 series seiko".
  19. Interesting, are you saying if you have a good cleaner, one does not have to strip a movement down to oil and service it?
  20. Thanks for that. Likely I am using the wrong thermology. As for the regulator it is still attached to the HS/Balance. Now there could be more to it but this is the part I am seeing in the Seiko BOM, PN 345612. Also found the Reg on eBay photo directly below. Regarding the Jewel/cap/spring latch it is not shown as part of the balance cock in the BOM or in a NOS found on eBay (second photo). As you have enlightened me this is the Diashock ASSY and that’s what I should probably be looking for. OK, closer look at the BOM, I see a Diafix i.e. frame, cap, spring with the part numbers. I will start a search using these names and PN. Thank you, I think this is the right direction, Will
  21. Thank you helpful! I should be able to get without further help. Using the tweezer center as a press to keep the ring from bending makes perfect since. Thanks again
  22. Cal. 6139 Seiko , Balance Jewel Another issue I will need to deal with here is the missing balance pivot top jewel assembly. As you can see from the photo above it is missing from the balance cock. Looking though the Seiko parts schematic I am not seeing a reference to the jewel only the cock. I am going to need some help if I need to order a generic jewel ASSY. Does anyone know if Mark has addressed this in one of his videos? And if so which one? PS; I was thinking to buy a new balance cock but what I have found on eBay is NOS and same as I have, no jewel.
  23. Wdc

    Watch of Today

    Here is my contribution to the “Watch of the Day”. My Citizen Quartz Calculator GN-4W-S 4-096673 TA (1978+-). I have seen it referred to as the Holy Grail of Citizens Calculator watches. I don’t know about that, but I do enjoy the watch. Something I stumbled onto while searching & purchasing Pulsar P2 watches. Sadly, the crystal was hit at the 4 o’clock position, but still fun to wear.
  24. Seiko 6139 mainspring supplier Is anyone familiar with this company called Stefan? I am assuming they are a watch part supply house but have searched the internet and nothing coming up. The lead came from a post on another site chronicling someone else’s search and solution (printed below) seeking a Seiko 6139 mainspring. I would like to pick up some mainsprings for a Seiko 6139, 6138 movement (same PN). Just used my last spare, plus would prefer new MS. I see a guy in the UK with 8ea PN 401615 but they are pushing $40 landed and I would like to pick up 4-5. My gut they will be cheaper from a supplier. Thanks in advance POST QUOTE Seiko 6139B mainspring Can anyone help re replacement mainspring for Cal 6139B (17J) as originals seem unobtainable. Seiko part no 401616, barrel+arbor assy 205613, arbor 213612. The barrel/arbor have same Seiko no for Cal 6106A (base cal for 6139B) as well as 6106B (also 6139A) but the mainspring is 401615 (which I can source). How does the 401616 differ from the 401615 as they appear to fit into the same barrel/arbor assy? I have measured the old spring (401616) (the slipping attachment has broken off)…, Results Got new 401615 spring from Stefan and measured all I could without removing from holder. All dimensions appear to be same as 401616 but no details if different material (ie stronger/weaker which may effect power reserve and/or functionality). As the barrel was not 100% I decided to buy a new barre/arbor assy (205613) from Stefan, which again measures same as old one as expected as same part number. Have now fitted mainspring to barrel with some Moebius 8217 grease to the barrel wall. Image below down to my last spare. You can see the bottom spring the the autowind slip tab broken off end of spring. If there is a proper term/name for this tab, by all means, please advice.
  25. Well as I venture into the land of Horology, it can take a while until one really appreciates the tools of the trade. As I had read/watched Mark respond to a post once “the collection of tools never ends”. I can see that now. I have always been a tool guy, no matter what I am doing, from oil & gas drilling to scores of workshop projects. Everything is done better with the right tool, and there’s a tool for everything. Personally, I am generally a LOT buyer, but that’s a story for another post. This post is about a tool I hear Mark reference and recommend quite often. What I found is that they are like Hens Teeth, and hard to come by, unless of course you want to pay a fortune. Well, perseverance paid off a couple days back and I finally picked up the elusive vintage Cannon Pinion Puller for the descent price of $34. Whereas I have had the good luck of pulling Cannon Pinions using various methods, it was only a matter of time. Well my best to all and your tool collecting, Will