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Wdc

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Everything posted by Wdc

  1. Added a couple new watches to my Seiko collection last night I thought I would share. The first is somewhat underwhelming at first glance, and what does one say about an underwhelming watch? It has good bones, it’s a good foundational piece, etc. etc. Well in my case none of the above. The watch was a match to one I already own a “Seiko 5 Automatic 6119-8400” August 1969, WATER PROOF with three mouth spread between the two watches probably as close as ones going to find without divine intervention. Why do I want two? I don’t, I want three…lol anyone that caught my interdiction will know I am on a mission, put together three matching collection of vintage Seiko’s to pass on to my three sons when I am not around. So as far as this watch goes, I am 33% away from my goal. Found in the UK. Second watch is just fun and considered a TV watch and one that screams 1968-1970 all over again.This is a Seiko 5 6119-5400, Square Automatic day date 21 jewels, original wristband. It has an interesting band that is claimed to be original wristband and found in Egypt. I generally try to keep my collection grounded around the infamous 6139, 6138 series but one has to occasionally push the boundary. All the best, Will
  2. Good Morning Gentlemen (i.e. @Nucejoe, @rodabod), A quick note to let you know that I apricate your above advise and to let you know I have not abandoned you. Even though I am to the most part retired, I do still occasionally consult for some of my valued customers on specialty drilling projects, mostly overseas. I am, more or less, a fire fighter they contact when things go amuck, requiring me to drop everything and focus on their problem. With things back to normal I picked up a Seiko 6139-6002 that was striped and cleaned, and waiting for reassembly, focusing on something I know before revisiting the Citizen. That said, I found myself re-reading all your comments to solidify it in my fading mind and I again thank you both. PS: the bench is again lit and alive
  3. I am seeking advice on how to address a problem I am having on the re-assembly of the 8110A movement. Preamble: This was a project watch purchased for restoration. I do not recall if the movement ran smooth without the balance stopping before strip-down. The Cal was stripped, cleaned, inspected, re-assembled, train runs smooth without pallet fork Problem: cannot keep Balance Wheel (BW) in motion, keeps hanging up in the same spot, when balance rotates clockwise with the balance spoke about 10-oclock. 1. When I inspect, I can see the roller jewel against the right side of the fork 2. When I apply a bit of pressure on the BW, more to the right clockwise the jewel will push past center of the fork and the BW keeps turning right. 3. The BW will do the same if pressed counter-clockwise (CCW) past the fork but it does not hang up CCW as you can see in the video 4. I have inspected the Roller Jewel it looks ok, not chipped, broken or loss 5. Pallet fork looks ok The problem appears to be the roller jewel hitting the fork on the right side and wedging. Any thought and/or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Will
  4. Can anyone tell me who the USA supplier for GR springs are? I am trying to find a mainspring for Seiko 6139 which of coarse are discontinued. I have found a GR chart and matched the demention to a GR8 code and now looking for a supplier. MS INFO Seiko 6139 A/B mainspring measurements Type: X (Auto - welded brae spring) Length: 425mm Width: 1.03mm Thickness: 0.12mm Barrel ID: 11.mm Strength: ? Based on measurements ( GR Code: RA1S04958, GR Ref:: 2534-X
  5. Correction after looking closer, its not off 90°. From first glace the RJ looks to be lined up within the fork while it sits on the left banking pin. I need to go back and find @MARK video on this, cant recall if the center between the banking pins when lining up the RJ. I am assuming I can use the regulator on the balance cock for small adjustment and do not need to mess with the collet?
  6. Also, I going to circle back around on the Citizen base plate stamping of “L or R” (below in photos), does anyone know what this signifies? The 8110A I have been working on is stamped “L” and when cracking open a 8200 I see it stamped “R”. I am thinking this may sig what side of the fork to position the RJ. I have scanned the net and find no reference to the letters. Any thoughts?
  7. Gentlemen thank you for the in-depth response. The problem does appear to be associated with the positioning of the roller jewel (RJ). I do recall watching Marks video on lining up the jewel with the forks while in a resting position. I was just hoping to not have to get into it so soon…lol I am reflecting on the numerous installing of the Balance ASSY while trying to work this out and I have been having to turn the bridge 90° from its mounting position in order to line up the RJ with the center of the fork. To someone more experienced that would have been a dead give-away. Give me a bit to read and re-read your comments as a lot of what I read on first glance was fussy-jargon to a newbe. Thanks again and, “I Will Be Back”. Will
  8. Thank you for that, excellent video! I have been trying to eliminate being on the wrong side of the fork with the roller jewel by positioning the jewel between the two forks. In some movement its hard or impossible to see but in this case, I have a clear unobstructed view. I was led to believe you could do this to prevent overbanking if you do not know what side to place the jewel, left or right. This does Segway to the question of how does one know from caliber to caliber if your to position left or right? I have noticed a “L” stamped into the base plate (framework) near the pallet fork and was wondering if this was a indicator. Photo of “L” attached note the "L" below the pallet fork bridge. Thank you for your response, I will study this area a bit closer.
  9. Hello Joe, just wondering if you have time to offer a recommendation. 

    Thanks in advance,

    Will

     

    1. Nucejoe

      Nucejoe

      Hi Will,     I gladly be at disposal. Joe

  10. Heads-up, 1971 Citizen Technical Information download found I posted this link just before X-mas when most where off with family and not hanging out working on watch projects like myself. I think it’s important enough to post again for those that missed it. My experience finding a complete Service Manual for Citizen 8110A has been fruitless but I did stumble onto a up-load onto anther site of a “Citizen Technical Information” around 200 pages in 4-5 download sections that a member was gracious enough offer. My many thanks to him, “akable”. I have downloaded and assembled the manual and found it to be very informative. Whereas it still does not cover my 8110A it does cover many Calibres both Gent & Lady’s , lots of general information that is included in the 8110A as well as many more. For those that missed it the link is as follows: 1971 Citizen Technical Information
  11. Can anyone point me in the direction of a Citizens 8110A Service Manual? I have been poking around the web but have not come up with a full manual. I have found someone selling 17-page PDF 8110A manual on ebay which I can buy but hate to if it can be found somewhere in the public domain. Just finishing up the restoration on a 8110-9011 Bullhead (Panda), whereas the movement is in clean, I notice the balance stopping in some positions so I would like to do a strip-down and service. It would be nice to have the full manual with schematics. Thanks in advance, Will
  12. @JohnR725 Thanks for the info on lubricant trends, very informative. If heavier viscosities are trending for the wheel train, in the future I will substitute 9020 or 9020-film for the 9010. If cost is the reason, we not seeing more 9501 used, I may start substituting 9510 for D-5 in some of the lever pivots (non-rotating higher-pressure points) where common since tells you that a grease type of viscosity and/or product may be better suited then an oil. As always, thank for responding. PS: For anyone familiar with the Citizen 8110A movement, I will be posting some questions on an assembly I am having problems with. The balance complete stopping and not perpetually running after rebuilding.
  13. Wdc

    One year into my future!

    Welcome Dennis, nice having you as part of the forum as you dive into this new found hobby and interest. I too have resently joined the WRT and found the group to be friendly and helpful, hopefully you will find the same. My interest are 1970-1979 Seiko with the odd Citizen, how about yourself, any particular interest you will focus on? All the best, Will
  14. Citizen 8110A HELP needed (screw location) Gentlemen, I am getting close on the 8110A assembly, but I keep noticing one screw with a shoulder (generally for leaving a little play under the head). I did not notice it on disassembly, noting its position. Does anyone having experience with this caliber remember where it goes? It is the only screw like this. @Nucejoe , etc Thanks in advance, Will
  15. If a moderator sees this, you may want to delete this duplicate post. Not sure how I did it, sorry. Seems like when I edited it to add the part number it was duplicated by me some how.
  16. Thanks Joe, the screw in question went to the “Day Dial Driving Wheel” as shown by the pointer below. It was clear when I got to it, the screw head needed to be held off the gear in order for it to rotate. Mystery solved thanks again.
  17. For anyone else needing the full Technical Manual for Citizen watches, it has been posted on anther site over the last few days. It is broken up into downloadable sizes,4-5 sections around 200 pages. https://www.thewatchsite.com/14-user-manual-technical-manual-casing-guide-downloads/171138-1971-citizen-technical-information.html All the best and Merry Christmas Will
  18. BTW the lever I am referencing on the Chrono Bridge from the Citizens schematic & BOM is a “PN: 265, Connection lever of hour blocking lever”. Not sure how it works, with the bridge installed, the pin on the pivoting lever is constrained by the hole so it cannot pivet. Regards, Will
  19. Good morning Gentlemen & Ladies attached is a quick video update on my Citizen 8110A caliber (or calibre as used across the pond). I am pretty far along on the drive wheel train side of things, ready to drop in the “Chrono Bridge”. A couple small questions on lubrication points but other than that, straight forward. What I neglected to mention in the video is that I am using D-5 on the lever arms pivots and friction points. As I understand D-5 is good for slow moving, high friction points which I have interpreted levers as being a D-5 application. Alternatively one could use 9501 typically reserved for the keyless works but I have not seen it done. Lastly 9010 on the wheel train pivots. If you see any parts in my parts tray that should have already been incorporated, please speak up. Regards, Will PS: one area touched on yesterday was the screws and identifying where they go. This assembly really drives home for me the importance of taking a photo of the part along with its respective screws as they are removed. It really saves time when wondering and second guessing your self on what screw goes where.
  20. And on the tip front, here is anther habit of mine. During the teardown I separate the parts in some type of logic (as we all do) but I will take the periodic photo of my parts tray. By photoing the tray I document what parts are where and when. When a part goes missing I find myself going though the photos, finding the part and then following it while trying to nudge a clue to its whereabout (or at least to point of exit).
  21. Well thanks. I will say that I wish I had incorporated a new step I now use when taking disassembly pics, every part removed is photo’d with the screws next to it. Something I started after tearing this Citizen Cal. down. I found myself making mistakes re-assembling the 6139’s when it came to remember what screw is used where. You think you can remember starting out but until you have stripped enough down to remember what goes where, it’s a good tip. Its just a digital pic, cheap to take, cheap to delete PS: I don’t put a note on each one, unless there is something special, I need to remember. The part and screw generally enough to jog your memory
  22. Well Gentlemen & Women, It is kickoff day for a new assembly (ASSY) of a Citizen 67- 9011 Chrono Bullhead. Using kickoff loosely as I started some 10-14 days back with disassembly and finding a broken mainspring which took some time to find. I had tried to buy 3-4 of this MS (for future projects) but was told this is the last of a discontinued part of which I received yesterday. Unlike the Seiko 6139 Cal. where there can be found tons of service documents and manuals. I have had little luck finding Citizen service manuals, other than the part schematic kindly offered by @JohnR725 and kind advise from @Nucejoe. Thankfully we are in the age of the digital camera, of which I have long ago learned to use as an assistant to my lacking skill and crutch to my failing memory. With 212 disassembly photos in hand (every photo is taken on three side to offset glare), along with the new MS, we start the reverse-disassembly. Thanking in advance for the gracious advise, help and guidance I will undoubtedly fall back on while calling for help along the way. Regard, Will
  23. Seiko 6139B assembly help I have had mixed success assembling a 6139B and seeking help. I have several 6139, 6138 movements and training myself to service them. A quick summery is as follows 1. The 1st tear-down, cleaning/servicing and assembly was flawless. The second the balance was dropped in it came to life running for two days, no-problem. 2. For untold reasons I disassembled and assembled it again. Smooth wheel train with backlash. Dropped in the balance and it will not run. The balance is smooth, springy, swing freely in one direction but stops at 90°, will not swing the normal +- 180°. 3. I have Dissassy & assy the movement several time looking for problems, but all looks good, balance does the same, stops at 90°. 4. Thinking I am not seeing something grabbed another 6139 disassembled, cleaned/serviced and assembled it, and the same stops at 90°. 5. For whatever reason the pallet fork will not swing past center. Free and springy in one direction but stops dead center. With the same happening to both movements I have eliminated a mechanical failure and must be something I am doing wrong on assy and prompting me to seek help. Attached is a link showing the wheel train running smooth with the MS. I can post the balance stopping and its characteristics if it would help with the assessment. Thanks in advance & Marry Christmas to all Will
  24. My thanks to everyone “we are off to the races”. Can not tell you if the impulse jewel was centered in the fork or off to the right as there is no space to see, but it fired. Thanks again
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