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AndyHull

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Everything posted by AndyHull

  1. Thanks for the info. I wonder if the '60' stamped on the base might then be the model number for a slightly different version of the 946. The style of bakelite case used on the mechanism of one I have is very reminiscent of 1950s and early 1960s electrical items. Typically off white urea formaldehyde and epoxy resin fabricated items had replaced most of the brown bakelite ones by the early seventies, however I guess since the model looks to have been introduced in 1967, they were still using brown bakelite even then. Its not that brown was the only colour for bakelite, but it
  2. Speaking of quick fingers.. ... not only could Barney play the banjo at 1000 mph, he also played the mandolin and the melodeon (button keyed accordion) with equal skill an humour.
  3. If you liked that, you may like this.. ... that piano looks familiar.
  4. Be careful with that idea. Before you know it your living room will end up looking like this. .. or maybe this..
  5. I've had good results with your typical rattle can lacquers and clear coats but there are actually specialist lacquers for brass, both spray on and brush on. I even used pound shop rattle can lacquer for the brass fittings on the windows and doors in our previous place, and that lasted for years. There are specialist lacquers for brass musical instruments for example, but they tend to be a little pricey. You will also find lacquers for brass bullet and shell cases, however I don't think they are necessary for this, as the item will see very little contact wear, so pretty much anything will pro
  6. Today we have a big 'Q' of watches to choose from.
  7. Electro-mechanical clocks are actually not that uncommon in industrial settings for things like lighting and heating controls that come on and off at set times throughout the year (although those are a little more complex than the metamec). Good old fashioned street lights in the pre-solid state electronics age were often controlled by timers like these directly fed and regulated from the mains. These also use synchronous motors. Some even have a "spring reserve" to keep them ticking away if the power goes off. The really fancy ones have a seasonal cam to compensate for day len
  8. You can "unzip" the cores of old power supply transformers. I have done this to make coils for other stuff, but not, so far, for watches. If you have an electric sewing machine, you can unwind the transformer core on to a sewing machine bobbin using the bobbin loading function.
  9. The 404 club membership committee (me) debated long and hard, well in to the night and have decided to allow clocks under the extensive 404 club rules and regulations, so here is the first new member under the new rules. A relatively early Metamec synchronous mains, brush finished brass and mahogany mantle clock (serial number 60). I would guess its age as anything from the late fifties to the mid to late seventies, as this model had a long production run, even sporting a later quartz variant, which looks almost identical other than the Kienzle quartz mechanism and a "Quartz"
  10. The Metamec synchronous mains clock arrived, so I stripped down the case and the brass work and cleaned it up. Its a hefty beast, and scrubbed up very nicely. I didn't appreciate from the auction pictures how it should look without all the grime and filth. The brass was black. Maybe it spent its life over a coal fire mantlepiece. I'll tackle the mechanism tomorrow, check it for electrical safety and fit a new cord and plug if I have the time, but here is a quick before and after shot. The plinth and the pillars need a quick kiss with some shellac button polish, and I
  11. Its Sekonda time again, or perhaps (according to Auntie Google) "Время Секонды.".
  12. I'm a bit of a fan of Russian watches, and in my opinion not only are they pretty robust, but with a little care, they can be very presentable. Just to illustrate that point, here are a couple of 404 club members. One is 9ct gold and originally cost the best part of £1,000.00 and the other is a USSR era 20 mikron gold plated Sekonda. Now I'm not saying they are equivalent, but neither would either of them embarrass you at a formal function. Sure the lines of the Sekonda are a little more solid, and the hands and case, perhaps not quite as well finessed, but on the wrist i
  13. I've got 500 litres of the stuff in a big green tank in the back garden, its called domestic heating oil. Your local garden centre probably has it too, its used in green house heaters.
  14. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can find a suitable dial for you. What size is it? Where are the dial feet positioned? Did you get the caliber running?
  15. A Ronda 1217-21 based Ingersoll joins me by the fire today. Its raining and "blowing up a hoolie" outside and we had a brief power cut earlier on. A perfect excuse to sit by the fire with a cup of tea and a few biscuits.
  16. They seem to have produced this particular model for quite a while. I even spotted one with a Junghans quartz module in it, which looked to be original. The one I picked up has a Bakelite or perhaps urea formaldehyde cased mains module, so maybe a little earlier than 1970, perhaps fifties or sixties. That mains cable is almost certainly a later addition.
  17. Its not pretty, but it is interesting. An early hardwood and Bakelite cased Metamec electric clock. I'm intrigued by the idea of powering it from a 240V 50Hz source derived from a USB power bank. Failing that, then I guess I'll just run it the more conventional way. Needless to say, it cost next to nothing, however it seems there are quite a number of collectors of Metamec clocks. Now.. I REALLY do have to stay away from ebay.
  18. Let me see if I have a dial for the Ingersoll/Ronda 1217-21 I might swap for the Timex crystal. The Ronda is probably save-able. The keyless work is most likely corroded, but remove the balance and fork and soak the keyless work in penetrating oil, or dare I say it WD40 and it should loosen up. Moisture from sweat tends to be salty, and that can lead to some pretty nasty corrosion. It may look like it took a bath in H2SO4 but I suspect it was probably something more mundane. Sekondas are notorious for borked keyless work due to this very problem. Speaking of borked Sekondas,
  19. XR11630W is also known as: XR1130W, R28, WSR265H, XR113OW so far as I can see.
  20. I thought one or two people here might enjoy this Antikythera Mechanism article. https://bhi.co.uk/antikytheramechanism/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkKgdq57uOo
  21. Is the dial save-able? What is the calibre? I have a few new old stock Ingersoll dials, which might work in it.
  22. Generally speaking its a lot easier to use the "dunk and slunge" method, rather than take these apart. It may not be for the purists, but it does avoid the need to undo fixings which may not survive, or re-assemble the single plate construction which can prove very frustrating. I do strip down the absolute basket cases, but the ones that only need a light cleaning will get a trip through the lighter fluid bath, and some light lubrication. Your example is in a much better cosmetic state than mine, which runs fine, but has a few battle scars on the dial. I would guess th
  23. Armed with total control of the frequency of your "mains", you could go for the Lord Vetinari approach to time keeping. https://www.instructables.com/Lord-Vetinari-Clock/
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