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Everything posted by margolisd

  1. Has the HS broken off from the stud? Is there a small length of HS still in the stud? Is so, if you reattach then the length will change. So regulating may be difficult. Plus the terminal curve will need adjusting so it’s between the regulating pins. It’s a tough repair. Dynamic poising may help correct for the too short HS. But to be honest, replacing the balance assembly might be easier.
  2. Thank, yes I spotted those on the lists. There seem to be a set of 10s that are very different. All from them 60s. Mine is from the 20s. It's similar to this: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&Bulova_10AE Thanks for your advice. I think I'll just leave the machine on the default 52 and see how I go
  3. Oops. It looks to me like the regulator pins have moved past where the terminal curve starts. Then when attempting to move back into the terminal curve they have caught it and bent it badly. It's going to need some very careful unbending.
  4. Hi folks. Long time no post. Having a baby means there is less time for watches Does anyone know the lift angle for the Bulova 10A series of watches from the 1920s. I'm trying to get an accurate reading on a movement I'm repairing. In particular I have a 10AI. I couldn't find the lift angle anywhere so I tried to calculate it using this method. The result was 59 degrees. But that seems quite unusual...
  5. Oh wow. If I had 3500 Euros... I've recently been trying to make a virtual hairspring vibrating tool using my iPhone. It has some potential. The phone glass is a perfect surface to vibrate the wheel on and you can sync it to an animation. It's triggering the balance at the correct time with the correct force that is tricky.
  6. This looks extremely awesome. Does anyone know if these are manufactured and sold? I've been researching it and heard it was prototype...
  7. Tack! I've found the part on eBay. Let's give it a try
  8. Okay. I'm slowly getting my head around this. The 30t2pc is now called the 260. So according to this PDF Cousins are indeed listing the correct part. The 260 / 1327. What's confusing me is that they list the same part for the 30t2 with no shock. Even though that one requires a different size balance staff. And also Balancestaffs.com lists the ronda 1856 as being compatible with the shock and non-shock. Even though the staffs are a different size. 357_260_complet_2015.pdf
  9. Tjenare, Thanks for this. But I'm not clear. What part number do you think I should search for the complete balance assembly for 30T2PC?
  10. Hi guys. I'm looking for a complete balance assembly for an Omega 30t2pc. But I'm not sure of the part number. Cousins list it as "Balance Complete ( 1327 ), Omega 260". But they list the same part for the entire Omega 30t series. Even though I know the balance staffs are different sizes in this series depending on whether there is an inca shock (I found this out from balancestaffs.com). The t2pc has an inca shock so I don't think the one Cousins list will fit properly. Does anyone have any knowledge of this movement? Or some documentation that might help? Thanks in advance
  11. So, here is the interesting jewel cutting tool from eBay. Just arrived today. It's really nifty. I can't find anything about how to use it so I'm making this up as I go along. Let's define some technical terms. 1) Turny bit 2) Spiky thing 3) Edge gougers 4) Locking screw 5) Size guide 6) Maybe thing for a bow It appears that you place the spiky thing into your desired jewel hole on the size guide. You turn the turny thing until the edge gougers fit into the guide edge of the hole. Then you lock the spike with the locking screw. The edge gougers are clever. Each one is split. So I think the inner gouger carves out the floor of the setting for the jewel to sit on. And the outer one creates a wall that you can later use to bend over the jewel and secure it. Because am I right in thinking this is producing a rub in setting? I had a couple of gentle attempts on a thin scrap piece. I used it to ream an existing hole. I would presume you need a pilot hole to start with close to the correct size. I wouldn't like to use this to make a hole from scratch. I am using this freehand. But would you agree that 6 could be a thing to use a bow? Like you would with a jacot tool? But then the tool needs to be held on some kind of stand or device to keep it vertical and steady. So I'm not sure. It certainly doesn't feel very ergonomic using it freehand. And why are both ends spiked?
  12. Well I purchased that tool. Just because it looks really interesting. I'm not sure how it works but I have plenty of scrap movements to practice with. I might see if it helps me make a new setting. But more likely I'm going to ream out a friction fit hole as suggested by Nickelsilver above. The question is, what stone should I buy? The jewel is for a pallet fork (lower). The fork pivot is 0.141 according to my super accurate micrometer. If it's anything to go by the upper jewel hole looks to be around 0.2mm. But it's tricky to measure. Would a 0.2mm hole be correct for a pivot of this size? I'm not sure what the ratio of pivot diameter to hole diameter should be for a pallet fork. I measure the jewel setting diameter 1.51mm. But it's also difficult to measure. I was thinking of going for a Seitz flat jewel 1.6mm with a 0.2mm hole. (Seitz don't make an olive jewel in this size.) Does this sound sensible?
  13. Thanks both. Could this help me create a new larger hole? And I'll just find a suitable jewel to fit? I've never seen one of these before and I have no idea how they work. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Watchmakers-Jewellers-Brass-Jewel-Hole-Cutting-Tool-Set-Boxed/383062301696?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  14. So, I was somewhat cavalier trying to replace a rub in jewel. I don’t have the correct tools but thought I could expand and close the hole with nothing but my jeweling tool, some peg wood and my wits. It didn’t go well. I’ve taken a big. chunk out of the thin metal that wraps around the jewel. To be fair, the jewel still sits in the hole and feels relatively secure with only 200 degrees of metal holding it in place. But I just can’t close the watch knowing it’s been bodged. So is there a technique for replacing a rub in jewel setting if it’s damaged? I’m guessing it needs drilling out and soldering in a new setting. Which would be beyond me for now. Is there another way?
  15. And here it is completed. It's been a long process. Lots of cleaning and polishing, a new balance staff, replacing 2 cracked jewels, all kinds of escapement issues. Thanks HSL for the roller! Everything is running great now after 12 rounds of dynamic poising. It's within 30 seconds per day in all positions which I can live with. But most importantly within 8 seconds dial up and pendant up. Pretty good for a century old watch.
  16. Wow. You are so kind to me! I really am happy to pay for these parts and postage if you ever want me to. It’s very generous of you. But rest assured that one day I’ll pay the favour forward to somebody else learning the trade. The address is the same. Thanks again HSL. I’ll post some pics when this one is up and running. I’ve ordered a leather Albert. Let’s try and bring the pocket watch back into fashion. I always wondered what that tiny pocket in my jeans was for!
  17. Can they cope with the scale of watch parts? I thought this was very specialist. And would they do just 1 part? I’d be curious to know how much it would cost.
  18. I think that’s the very one! Are you willing to sell parts?
  19. It’s called Shapr3D. Interestingly it’s all iPad based. It’s phenomenally easy compared to others I’ve used. https://www.shapr3d.com/ I wonder if there is a company out there who could CNC mill watch parts from CAD. That would be very useful!
  20. I’m learning CAD. This is my attempt at modelling my Speedmaster. There is some quite complex geometry you don’t really appreciate until you try to build it!
  21. I have a 100 year old Omega pocket watch with a 19" movement. The plateau is broken. Huge crack in it and now it's broken in half! Does anyone have a spare I could buy? Or know of a good source? Nothin on eBay sadly.
  22. No idea how well this would work but... https://www.printerbase.co.uk/sunangel-32sw-white-toner-printer.html
  23. This was what it looked like from the original eBay listing. The movement was also really rusty and nasty. It was a fun project bringing it back to life!
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