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Jon

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  1. Thanks
    Jon got a reaction from Nucejoe in Hello from Dallas, Texas!   
    Hi JJ,
    Like you, I don't spend a fortune on watches, but have accrued over seventy in a short space of time, ranging from £20 to £400. I think I've got the bug!
  2. Like
    Jon got a reaction from JJx in Hello from Dallas, Texas!   
    Hi JJ,
    Like you, I don't spend a fortune on watches, but have accrued over seventy in a short space of time, ranging from £20 to £400. I think I've got the bug!
  3. Haha
    Jon got a reaction from VWatchie in Hello from Dallas, Texas!   
    Hi JJ,
    Like you, I don't spend a fortune on watches, but have accrued over seventy in a short space of time, ranging from £20 to £400. I think I've got the bug!
  4. Like
    Jon reacted to LiamB in Adventures in Pad Printing   
    Hey guys, I have been working on a project to make my own watch dials over the past few months. I thought I would share my progress with you thus far. It has been an awfully expensive endeavour, and I have yet to reach a final dial but the work is well underway. I have purchased a pad printing machine, speciality inks and pads as well as a custom engraved cliche of my design. Now I’m putting it all together, I have been practing printing on plastic watch crystals, until I have my silver dials complete to print on. Let me know if you have any questions. 
    Cheers 




  5. Like
    Jon reacted to nickelsilver in Getting started with equipment   
    I'll just throw in here that naphtha is a sort of catch-all petroleum name that could be a mix of numerous levels of petroleum distillation. Here in Switzerland the really good drug stores have pretty much any chemical you want; I use Ronson lighter fluid to clean manky clock parts before actually running through the ultrasonic so thought I'd be smart and buy a liter of pure naphtha.
     
    The guy looked at me weird and asked why I wanted that and I said it's lighter fluid at a fraction off the cost. He said lighter fluid is benzine. I bought it anyway. This "pure" naphtha is super headache inducing stuff, I tried but it's actually scary. Back to lighter fluid for clocks.
     
    I use benzine frequently for various watch parts, generally precleaning muck before the cleaning machine. It's not particularly safe to breathe or stick your fingers in but not particularly bed either. If isopropyl alcohol will manage I use that as it's definitely safer.
     
    Side note- I needed fuel for my old Coleman camp stove and it's hard to find in Europe. Drugstore guy said "benzine, definitely", showed him the info I had and that it needs some specific mix of petroleum distillates and he held firm and danggit if my 40 year old stove doesn't run just perfectly on benzine, 5 years running.
     
    BUT- there are different types of benzine rectified, distilled, and what seems to be the good one here Benzine 60/95. No residue with that one. I bought distilled benzine once from a different source and it left visible traces. And if you google distilled benzine you get- naphtha....
     
    The "pure" version of which is nothing like any benzine I've tried.
     
    French guy I worked with brought in benzine from France and it was different still hahahahaha.
     
    If anyone wants to go down a rabbit hole try to find out what's actually in Coleman fuel. Depending how you look its "26% naphtha, 34% naphtha 10% naphtha, 13% naphtha, 17% naphtha". Which could all be classified as benzine, depending on which definition you're using. CAS numbers get foggy here...
     
     
  6. Like
    Jon got a reaction from jdrichard in Worn Crown Wheel Arbor - Can it be repaired?   
    That's the perfect way to do it JD! You could even turn down a large clock bush to suit and then open up the hole to fit over the newly shaped post. A bit of loctite and the jobs a good un
  7. Like
    Jon got a reaction from JohnR725 in Should a new balance wheel come with the jewel?   
    No, the impulse jewel on the roller table should definitely be part of what you bought
  8. Like
    Jon reacted to jdrichard in Worn Crown Wheel Arbor - Can it be repaired?   
    I would put it in my lathe on a three jaw chuck and make it round, and of course smaller. Then I would make a ring the can be placed over the new circle, and make it the same size as the old bridge circle, then place the crown wheel in place.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. Like
    Jon got a reaction from jdrichard in Made a Vintage Click-spring   
    Nicely done JD! Proper 'watchmaking' in action
  10. Thanks
    Jon got a reaction from luiazazrambo in Cleaning jewel and movement identification.   
    This is a fiddly job if you have never done this before, so it might be an idea to practice on a scrap movement.
    The cap jewel is a non shockproof type and will need to be unscrewed from underneath the balance cock. You can see the end of those screws in the picture you posted. First you will need to take off the balance cock from the movement and carefully turn it upside down, making sure the balance staff pivot is sitting safely in the jewel hole, Then turn the 'boot' which I have marked with a red arrow 90 degrees, so the hairspring can be released from between the boot and the curb pin. Do this with a very fine screwdriver, as there is an indentation in the boot to do this.
    The friction fit stud that the end of the hairspring is pinned to with a tiny brass tapered pin. I have marked this with a red circle. This stud is held in place by friction, by the looks of your picture, rather than a small screw coming out from that arm and will release with downward pressure on the top of the stud in the picture. The arm that the stud fits into will need to be supported in some way to do this, usually using a staking set to do this if it is a really tight fit. I use an adapted tool that pushes the stud and holds the underside of the arm at the same time.
    Once the stud is free and the boot moved 90 degrees the hairspring and balance wheel are free. You can then undo both the screws on the underside of the balance cock to remove the cap jewel to be able to clean and oil it
     

  11. Like
    Jon got a reaction from jdm in Seiko balance removal   
    I find using an EtaChron removal tool the safest way to remove the stud, as it doesn't have any downward pressure, and removes the risk of slipping with whatever you are trying to pry the stud out with, also it takes away the risk of bending/snapping the stud carrier. All the pressure is sideways using the EtaChron tool. I made my own, which in essence looks like a 3 to 4 mm screwdriver head with a slot in it. As already mentioned, replacing the stud is a lot harder. Do this by having the balance fixed into the main plate for stability, with no other parts fitted

  12. Like
    Jon got a reaction from carlos123 in Seiko balance removal   
    I find using an EtaChron removal tool the safest way to remove the stud, as it doesn't have any downward pressure, and removes the risk of slipping with whatever you are trying to pry the stud out with, also it takes away the risk of bending/snapping the stud carrier. All the pressure is sideways using the EtaChron tool. I made my own, which in essence looks like a 3 to 4 mm screwdriver head with a slot in it. As already mentioned, replacing the stud is a lot harder. Do this by having the balance fixed into the main plate for stability, with no other parts fitted

  13. Haha
    Jon reacted to Mark in Pallet Warmer Project   
    Yikes - bagpuss. Now that's a blast from the past!

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  14. Like
    Jon got a reaction from jdrichard in Took a Picture of all My Lathes   
    Nice collection JD... I've only got three, which now reinforces I don't really have a problem!
  15. Like
    Jon reacted to jdrichard in Took a Picture of all My Lathes   
    I took a few pictures of all my lathes. 13 in all, need to lighten the load eventually. Love the ones with the Countershafts: plenty of control.
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. Thanks
    Jon got a reaction from Nucejoe in Regulator not changing rate   
    If you want to transfer the HS, then that is exactly what you do, but the original reading was to high a beat error to have the stud in exactly the same position on the new balance, so you need to work out where to fit the HS in relation to reduce that beat error. When the balance and HS is fitted, the impulse jewel should be bang in the middle of the banking pins. If you look sideways to the movement and line up the banking pins you will see the impulse jewel off to one side, then you can work out which way to turn the hairspring on the new balance staff to get the impulse jewel in the correct position and reduce that beat error.
    Also when the HS is fitted to the other balance with less end-shake, check that the HS bounces ever so slightly between the pin and the boot.
    Have you demagnetised the whole movement, not just the HS?
  17. Like
    Jon got a reaction from AdvocatusDiaboli in Seiko 7009 stops   
    Nice one... Glad you found the problem. It's usually the simplest of things. I've come back to a watch days later after leaving it and the answer is staring me in the face.
  18. Haha
    Jon reacted to eccentric59 in ETA/Valjoux 7750 Oris TT1   
    Looks like your workhorse has broken its leg. You're either going to have to take it to the veterinarian or shoot it.  
     
    Seriously, it could be any or all of the suggestions already given, or it's going to be something less obvious. There are two things I can say for certain. One, you won't know until it's opened up, and two, it's not going to fix itself. 
  19. Like
    Jon reacted to Pip in Pivot Polisher Setup and Technique Help   
    When i googled I found an informative video about them on youtube:
     
  20. Like
    Jon reacted to AndyHull in HMT Watch Factory refuses to die.   
    If you throw enough money at it, the HMT problem would resolve. I suspect that throwing an infinite amount of money at Brexit still wouldn't provide a solution acceptable to all. The first experiment is unlikely to be conducted, but the second one is a work in progress.
  21. Like
    Jon reacted to wls1971 in An eye opening conversation with my watchmaker   
    I think your post misses a few salient points, people who have worked their way to this site may well have done so out of economy and wish to learn to service the watches that they have acquired over the years, and by learning to do so have more money to spend on their hobby.
    There is no doubt that a quartz watch is more accurate than a mechanical watch but do you really need to time your life to the second ? do you need to time it to the exact minute ? you only need a reasonable amount of accuracy in life and certainly in most cases not to the second, the mechanical watch is in no way totally obsolete, it will always exist as long as people use sites like this and enjoy taking them apart, repairing and learning about them. What I do think will happen is that there will be a resurgence in mechanical watches and it wont be led by the high priced major players in Switzerland.
     
     
  22. Like
    Jon reacted to Delroyb in Showing off. My new workshop setup   
    Thought I would show off my new workshop. It has taken my the best part of 6 months to construct the building, then fit it all out, but finally have the space I wanted. It's a 6.5x3m building, split in half with office/watch workshop in one half and machine room in the other.



  23. Like
    Jon got a reaction from mikepilk in Opinions on tools   
    Lighter fluid is good to use, then rinse with IPA (isopropyl alcohol)
  24. Like
    Jon reacted to margolisd in Tool porn!   
    This beauty arrived today. My first jeweling tool. So excited  

  25. Thanks
    Jon got a reaction from margolisd in Longines 430 Advice Needed   
    http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/
    This guy is called John Senior and I get some parts off him, including mainsprings. He may not have that T end listed, but drop him an email. He's helped me out in the past. That's a lot of money for a spring from Oz, but the lack of them drives the price up
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