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Nucejoe

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  1. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from Johnnie in Thank you Rogart63   
    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor  @rogart63 .
    Following fourteen years of in to do box  I will hopefuly  bring my bulova snorkel back to life and  soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread.
    Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. 
    I have no problem shipping small parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

  2. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from rogart63 in Thank you Rogart63   
    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor  @rogart63 .
    Following fourteen years of in to do box  I will hopefuly  bring my bulova snorkel back to life and  soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread.
    Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. 
    I have no problem shipping small parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

  3. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to sstakoff in ETA 2893-1 Service Walkthrough - Part 1 - Disassembly   
    Service Walk Through – ETA 2893-1 / Hamilton Khaki: Part 1 - Disassembly
     
    This is part 1 of my service of a Hamilton Khaki – dual time zone automatic based on the ETA 2893-1 movement. I purchased the watch on eBay and it runs for a short time then stops. Looks like it could use a good cleaning.
    Note that the part numbers in the images and text are consistent with those found in the ETA technical document for this movement. Disassembly of this movement is quite straightforward. The only "special" tool you need would be an oscillating weight bolt tool - and you only need this if you intend to remove the ball bearing assembly from the oscillating weight, which really isn't required. In this tear down I do use the tool - only because I recently acquired it and wanted to see how it worked
    Off we go....
     

    The dial shows evidence of some sloppy workmanship in the watch's past – several scratches from prior hand removal.
     

    Here you see the back of the 2893-1 with its automatic rotor - nicely signed Hamilton.
     

    Preparing to remove the hands – with a safety sheet in place.
     

    After removing the dial, remove the dial support ring. This ring keeps the dial the proper distance from the second timezone disc. Without it, the disc will rub against the dial.
     

    Remove the second timezone disc from the center. This is a bit tricky as there’s no obvious place to grip it. I used two very small screwdrivers on each side to lift the indicator straight up. Be careful not to scratch it!

    Disc removed.  Note the following parts: Hour Wheel (42); Hour Indicator Driving Wheel (43);  Corrector Setting Wheel (44); Additional Indicator Maintaining Plate (41)
     

     
    Pop off the dial washer – note that you cannot simply lift the hour wheel (42) off at this point. It is held in place by the hour indicator driving wheel (43).
     

    I remove the hour indicator driving wheel (43) followed by the corrector setting wheel (44).

     
    The hour wheel (42) is now simply lifted off, followed by the additional indicator maintaining plate (41).
     

    Next components to remove are the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate (40) and the Minute Train Bridge (35).


     
    We move on to remove the Intermediate Date Wheel (39). The Date Jumper (38) has also been exposed when we removed the maintaining plate, so we remove it. Finally, we remove the Date Indicator (37) and the Date Indicator Driving Wheel (36).



    Now on to some of the motion and keyless work. We remove the Minute Wheel (34),  Cannon Pinion with Driving Wheel (33),  Double Corrector (32) and Date Corrector Intermediate Setting Wheel (31).




     
     
    Before dealing with the rest of the keyless work, we flip the movement over and remove the automatic work. After removing the 3 blue screws we lift the entire unit up gently by the Oscillating Weight (28).


     
    With the automatic work out of the way – I notice that the Stop Lever (Hack) is missing! Will try and source one.
     

    Back to the automatic work. Removing these 3 screws will allow the oscillating weight to come off the Automatic Framework (21) and its components.



     
    Using the appropriate Bolt tool (pictured with the red handle) – I remove the Oscillating Weight Bolt (28-3) and free the Ball Bearing (28-2) from the Oscillating Weight (28-1). There was no compelling reason to disassemble this portion of the movement.
     

    With the Oscillating Weight out of the way, remove the Auxiliary Reverser (27).


    Flip the unit over once again and remove the screw and Automatic Device Lower Bridge (26).
     

    Remove the Reverser (25), Reverser Wheel (24), Reduction Wheel (23) and Intermediate Reduction Wheel (22).


    A view of the underside of these components
     

    Remove the single screw and gently lift off the Balance Assembly (20) with the Balance Complete (19).


    Carefully let the power down by releasing the Click (12-6) and slowly letting the crown wind down.
     

     Remove the Pallet Bridge (18) and Pallets (17).
     

    Remove the Train Wheel Bridge (16).


    Remove the Fourth Wheel (15), Third Wheel (14) and Escape Wheel (13).


     
    Remove the 3 screws and the Barrel Bridge (12)


     
    Flip the bridge over and lift off the Ratchet Wheel Driving Wheel (12-2)
     

    Remove the screw and the Click Plate (12-7), followed by the Click (12-6), Intermediate Ratchet Wheel (12-5), Intermediate Crown Wheel (12-4) and Crown Wheel (12-3). Note that the Intermediate Crown Wheel is under the Click Plate. When I removed the plate, the wheel was stuck to it due to some old oil.


     
    Here you can see the Intermediate Crown Wheel as it was stuck.
     

    This shows the proper placement of the wheels.
     

    Remove the Ratchet Wheel (11), the Mainspring Barrel (10) and Intermediate Wheel (9). Note the scrap of tissue that found its way onto the movement. I was so focused on taking pics that I didn’t notice J


     
    Pop the lid off the barrel.
     

    Remove the mainspring arbor
     

    And finally, remove the mainspring
     

    The movement side is now completely bare. Let’s flip it over and finish off the keyless work.
     
    Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Jumper (8), Yoke (7) and the Setting Lever (6)



    Remove the Date Corrector Operating Lever (5), Winding Stem (4), Winding Pinion (3) and the Sliding Pinion (2)


    All stripped down
     

    Ready for the Ultrasonic!!!
     
     
    Hope you enjoyed this.
     
     
     
     
  4. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from watchweasol in Thank you Rogart63   
    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor  @rogart63 .
    Following fourteen years of in to do box  I will hopefuly  bring my bulova snorkel back to life and  soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread.
    Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. 
    I have no problem shipping small parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

  5. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from RyMoeller in Thank you Rogart63   
    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor  @rogart63 .
    Following fourteen years of in to do box  I will hopefuly  bring my bulova snorkel back to life and  soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread.
    Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. 
    I have no problem shipping small parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

  6. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from HSL in Thank you Rogart63   
    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor  @rogart63 .
    Following fourteen years of in to do box  I will hopefuly  bring my bulova snorkel back to life and  soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread.
    Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. 
    I have no problem shipping small parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

  7. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to DoctoralHermit in Having trouble removing the barrel on this old 1Mchz movement   
    Hello again! I'm having trouble removing this barrel from the plate (is it called a barrel plate?) of this old Mockba 1mchz russian movement. The screw on the top is just for winding the watch... it doesn't seem to loosen the barrel from the plate. Any thoughts?


  8. Thanks
    Nucejoe got a reaction from DoctoralHermit in How can I remove the dial on this old 1mchz Mockba?   
    Have you checked mainplates side at 5hr and at 2hr for little screws holding the dial feet? If they don,t unscrew peacefully, put penetrating oil on them, let soak over night, sharpen you screwdriver to perfect fit.
    If you can,t find the screws, give claiber post pix of MP sides( outer circumference)
    Good luck
  9. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from PAULSFAM4 in Hello to all and I could use some help on a 1942 Eterna military   
    Hi there , Welcome to WRt forum.
     
  10. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to watchweasol in Elgin Puzzler   
    Hi The train wheels are all free running,  does the pallet (fork) snap backwards and forwards cleanly when moved, without the balance in , If the action is sharp and crisp the fault lies within the balance area, Is it in beat is balance spring fouling the cock, is the spring concentric, is impulse pin loose , Pallet stones in good shape and not loose, pallet stones locking and un locking ok these are but a few pointers to check before trearing it to pieces again. Doubtless other members will have other actions for you to look at.
  11. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from ryhj in Opening Raketa   
    Universal jaxa back opener gives a choice to use two or three bits, use two bits across , better results than three for this type of back screw.
     
  12. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to VWatchie in Opening Raketa   
    Nice watch @rhyj and a great movement (I would expect a Raketa cal. 2609) for any beginning watch repairer! 
    You can see how the case back is removed in the video below. The movement in the video is a Vostok 2409 but the principle should be exactly the same. You'll find several videos on the same channel working with the Raketa movements and many other Russian movements such as Vostok, Poljot, etc. Now, be aware that the guy (Ratfaced Git) working on these movements is a self-trained former car mechanic who always insists to do things in his own way, which sometimes isn't best practice. That said, he was a huge inspiration to me when I got started. He just goes for it! No fear, no regrets! 
    Good luck!
     
  13. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from ryhj in Opening Raketa   
    Your common JAX back opener advertised above for 6.99 bucks.
  14. Thanks
    Nucejoe reacted to Marshall in Current collection   
    I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation
    Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project. 

  15. Like
    Nucejoe reacted to margolisd in Roller for 19" Omega Pocket Watch   
    And here it is completed. It's been a long process. Lots of cleaning and polishing, a new balance staff, replacing 2 cracked jewels, all kinds of escapement issues. Thanks HSL for the roller! Everything is running great now after 12 rounds of dynamic poising. It's within 30 seconds per day in all positions which I can live with. But most importantly within 8 seconds dial up and pendant up. Pretty good for a century old watch.

  16. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to GregC in SKX007 build   
    I have a nice big concrete block outside. I feel like taking this POS, putting it on that block  and pounding the shit out of it until its a nice homogeneous, flat piece of metal.
  17. Thanks
    Nucejoe reacted to jdm in Lorsa 238G Service   
    A well made mov’t that wasn't running. No surprise, as both balance pivots were snapped, there is no shock-protection on this version.

     
    I'd classify this mov’t not the best for an absolute beginner, it's 11.5’’' size is fine but there are three flat wire springs not very friendly,  many small screws all of different sizes, so to require a full set of screwdrivers. It is interesting to observe how many construction details that have evolved from this old design for reasons of optimization, cost and part count reduction.
    Let’s get started. To release the stem undo completely  the setting lever screw,, then either pull it out, or be careful as it likely will drop as you turn the mov’t over.

     
    Dial screws are on the sides and best handled with a 0.70mm driver. Especially if you’re using an ultrasonic cleaner it’s a good practice to remove them to reduce the risk of dropping during work.

     
    Remove the dial washer and hour wheel, since the date ring spring holds on the other side of calendar plate I suggest that for caution you place the mov’t in a plastic bag after removing the three screws, and before lifting the plate.


     
    You can put away the bag for now to remove the date ring, wheel,  and finger, as well as the cannon pinion and the setting lever screw.

     
    Now lift the setting spring to reveal the joke and its spring, be cautious when removing the latter.

     
    Remove the joke, setting wheel and pinion, clutch wheel, sliding pinion, setting lever, as well the balance cap jewel, and we're done with this side of the mov’t. Strangely, the escape wheel cap jewel was missing.

     
    In reality the picture above has the setting lever still in place since I had not removed its screw yet. Now for the other side.

     
    Since I had removed the balance cock already, it’s now time to let down the mainspring with the usual pegwood braking technique. We can now remove pallet cock screw, pallet cock, pallet fork, escape wheel cap jewel, And crown wheel  (left-handed). Also remove the crown wheel spacer pictured below.
     
    Remove the winding wheel screw and wheel, then be careful in removing the click spring, time to use the bag again perhaps. Finally remove the click screw and click. Having taken apart the complete winding system we can now remove the two train bridge screws and the bridge.

    Train is of the classic type, three wheels plus the escape one, which can now be removed. And finally two more screws for the barrel bridge, the bridge and the barrel.
    About the barrel and mainspring (sorry,  not pictured) I opened the lid and found everything clean and in order. Since I was not to replace the mainspring I took no further action on moved to general cleaning. I did a couple washes in petroleum ether (refined naphtha) and isopropyl alcohol but some opacity remained on the plates, so I left these in ammonia-based cleaner for few hours, then rinsed in petroleum ether. Note that the latter (unlike lighter or engine fuel) contains no oils, fragrance or other additives, and leaves no residue at all.

     
    Much better, barrel and bridge already in place!

     
    About reassembly, I will not detail all the steps, but only highlights some important aspects.
    For lubrication I’ve only used three modern, fully synthetic products by Moebius:
    HP1300 for high-torque parts like winding and setting. 9010 fine oil for other pivots and jewels, it’s easy to apply from the outer side of the hole jewel. 9415 for pallet stones, only because I’ve just received it.
    Below from left to right, escape wheel cap screw, lower balance cap screw, balance upper cap screws, All have different sizes, so unless you photographed or otherwise set these apart you’ll have to use some logic to refit correctly. Same goes for all the other screws… they may look the same.. but they are not!

     
    Below the balance upper cap jewel. It also holds in place the regulator arm, for this purpose it’s slightly beveled.

     
    You will have to fit the setting lever on the dial side, and its screw from the other. Just use some rodico to keep the lever in place.

     
    The setting pinion goes with the bevel toward the sliding pinion.

     
    Barrel and crown wheel screws have different head dia. length and thread direction.
     
     
    You may want to use the plastic bag to fit the click spring safely. Fit the click first, then the long leg of the spring under it, then the bent leg to sit firmly.

     
    The joke and setting lever springs are also a bit tricky. All these pivots and sliding points are lubricated with HP1300, don't forget to test the working repeatedly before moving forward.

     
    I've found the date ring spring to be the most difficult, because it’s underneath the calendar plate as shown in the disassembly picture. After the spring is in the plate either fit it with a siding manoeuvre to place the spring against the date finger, or position the plate with the screws kept loose, then push the spring in place by the cut that is on the plate for the purpose.
    There is no date quick setting on this basic mov’t, that is done setting time back and forth across midnight. The finger on the date wheel is pivoting when moving backwards with the help of a really small spring. However doing that much setting counter-clockwise every other month does not damage the escapement, as sometimes is  feared.

     
    The replacement balance complete came in the “a vis” version, which are there for poising, not rate adjusting. Actually I think the stubs are pressed not screwed.

     
    One last detail for the correct installation of the dial washer. Flat side faces and slides on the hour wheel, you can use HP1300 there. The edges somehow grab on the bottom of the dial.
     
     
    This veteran Swiss could have rewarded me a bit more on the instrument, but I hold no grudge and won’t try stunts as fixing beat error at the hairspring collet, adjusting for positions, or getting the missing cap jewel.

     
    And that is why I won’t, it would not make much sense for a desk clock! 

     
    Now, who should own something like that? My friendly blacksmith, of course!

     
    I hope you have enjoyed  my  “no pretenses” article!
  18. Thanks
    Nucejoe reacted to wls1971 in sessions westminster pendulum length   
    This is a two train Westminster chime ? the pendulum rod will hang to the very bottom of the movement plates which places the pendulum bob just below the movement , the suspension spring and rod would be 5 1/8 inches.
    Photos would help.
    https://mb.nawcc.org/images/attach/taming_the_sessions_2-train_4th_edition.pdf
  19. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to DoctoralHermit in How can I remove the dial on this old 1mchz Mockba?   
    You are correct! Upon careful inspection, there are two screws at 180 degree position on the mainplate. Thank you!
  20. Thanks
    Nucejoe reacted to vinn3 in How can I remove the dial on this old 1mchz Mockba?   
    if has been repaired,  it MIGHT be atached wit double back tape.   vin
  21. Like
    Nucejoe got a reaction from vinn3 in How can I remove the dial on this old 1mchz Mockba?   
    Have you checked mainplates side at 5hr and at 2hr for little screws holding the dial feet? If they don,t unscrew peacefully, put penetrating oil on them, let soak over night, sharpen you screwdriver to perfect fit.
    If you can,t find the screws, give claiber post pix of MP sides( outer circumference)
    Good luck
  22. Like
    Nucejoe reacted to bcpitch5 in Hamilton 974 Hands Not Moving   
    I figured it out. I totally overlooked that this particular 974 has the little blue locking screw to lock it in the winding position when out of the case which explains why the hands wouldn't move. I didn't have it locked which kept it in the setting position when out of the case and thus not having enough power to turn the hands....I'm an idiot
  23. Like
    Nucejoe reacted to HSL in ETA Resources   
    Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day.

    The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on.

    https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html
    The other ones are movement specific

    ETA 2892A2
    https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html
    ETA 7750
    https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html
    ETA 6497
    https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html
    ETA 251.471
    https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html

    When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner.
    After loading it is just to start exploring the information.

     

  24. Haha
    Nucejoe reacted to oldhippy in Pocket watch jewel needed.   
    There are millions of these movements about. The funny thing is they are not or very rarely have interchangeable parts.
  25. Thanks
    Nucejoe reacted to ro63rto in Watch of Today   
    Aeromaster today. Bought and restored ages ago.
    Bought for less than the cost of a large pizza
    New outer bezel from a dead donor
    NOS crystal
    Cheap movement but I like the styling.

    https://i.imgur.com/Jxb2f27.jpg

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