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  1. Edward Powell of Bristol listed as free from apprenticeship and active between 1809 -25. Need photographs of movement to see if it is original to the rest of the clock.
  2. Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll be going down the route of reducing the thickness some spring sheet sheet to get the right size. I already have some 0.15mm so its not going to take much effort to bring that down to 0.08 as needed. Yes you are correct it is a deadbeat escapement. Specifically it is a Brocot deadbeat escapement which I've not seen on an English made clock before. They must have stolen the idea from a French clock! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jy65s5Km7TtQ-z60-p4-C5lrXYJhdredXw/view?usp=sharing
  3. The movement is from a Gledhill Brooke time recorder. It is a very heavy duty fusee movement with maintaining work. I have started to remove the rivets from the suspension spring in preparation for a new spring steel: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PxWHamrbkNqVzRzn3jGQUvOKT8ERgPr2Xg/view?usp=sharing This is a picture of the movement out of interest, but the suspension spring is attached to the back of the case and not the movement. Note the back cock. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-nVR7AElMVF6sKuqTx4sEJs-p2-zCssVRg/view?usp=sharing
  4. I've got a broken suspension spring which is 0.08mm thick x 10mm wide. Problem is that I can't find a supplier for this thickness of suspension spring steel. 0.15mm x 6mm easy to get, but what about other sizes? Any thoughts on where I can get some from before I consider butchering some cheap feeler gauges.
  5. Finally tried out the operation this afternoon. First photograph shows the dial with brass showing through the silvered section. It was rubbed back with 1200 on a flat block to brass. The numerals didn't need any extra work to refill so it was just a case of silvering the cleaned brass. Using a damp cloth (wearing gloves as I've no idea what the chemicals are) I rubbed in small amounts of Horosilv. It takes a while and initially you think nothing is happening, but gradually it turns silver and you need to work it all over to get a consistent finish. You then wash it in clean water. Next you repeat the operation with Horofinish again applying small quantities and rubbing it even into the dial. Again you clean in clean water before drying and applying the lacquer which smells pretty bad! I'm very pleased with the end result so thanks again for the guidance on this. Out of interest does anyone know what the white powders are? I'd be interested to understand the chemical reaction and what I've been working with other than Horosilv and Horofinish magic white powders.
  6. Thanks for replies. I'll certainly post pictures before, after and during the process which may help others in the future.
  7. Yes it would be for a longcase clock dial. This is the tick in the box I'm hoping to achieve at least for by BHI work. As a sideline I'd also like to experiment with etching my own dials and silvering them too. Maybe starting with a large calibre watch (6497).
  8. For my BHI Record of Repairs one of the operations I need to carry out is re-silvering a dial. I've seen this kit from cousins and wondered if this contains everything I need to try this process out? https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/dial-silvering-kit?code=S1526 I understand that I'll need very fine abrasives to remove the old silvering back to the original brass, then use the items in this kit. Thanks
  9. Thanks - I've found you can get an assortment of sizes from Cousins so I'll reply to confirm. Useful if someone searches for this in the future.
  10. I'm going to purchase a Seagull ST36 movement (6497 clone) and wondered if anyone known what size dial foot (diameter) this movement uses? Im going to make my own dial so just after the size so I can get the right ones alongside the movement. Thanks Mark
  11. A picture is indeed worth 1000 words; yes this helps. Thanks again.
  12. Thanks that helps. I've looked at Unimat 3 motors and they are rated at about 100 Watts. I was looking at the spec of a 4pole 3phase motor of a similar rating and with a speed controller I'd be able to get between 130 and 2000 rpm. Does that feel correct? The alternative is a 2pole motor but the speed range would be between 300 and 4000 rpm which feels too fast.
  13. I have recently acquired a Lorch LL instrument maker's lathe for which I need to source a motor. I am planning on using a 3 Phase motor so that I can use a VFD inverter and hence be able to control the motor speed. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yoLJcPEZeQh8ueS-70Qw4jPmdtadtdf4EA/view?usp=sharing My question is, what size of motor do people typically use on these small lathes? It is a little bigger than a watch makers lathe with 65mm centre height. It uses 10mm collets. The lathe will be used in a clock repair workshop. Thanks
  14. Well I just wanted to feed back on this now I've changed my flux and solder. I have obtained some "Bakers Fluid No 3" and 60/40 tin/lead solder. I found that applying flux, holding together, then applying solder wasn't successful like you might do with silver soldering. I did however find that tinning both surfaces first (having cleaned as suggested above) and then soldering together resulted in a good joint that when cleaned up didn't show any join.
  15. Thanks all for the replies (with small misunderstanding in the middle). I think my lead free solder isn't helping matters here so I'll go lead/tin solder and the flux suggested above. I'll see what my local ironmonger has in stock.
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