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Everything posted by jaycey

  1. Looks like a problem in the operating lever area. That piece with 2 holes where it meets the chronograph cam, is that the lever?
  2. I bought the Mrs a Tag Heuer F1 Quartz Chrono some time ago and it has the Ronda 5021.D chrono movement. Just recently it started just stopping. Whilst it was stopped if I started the chronograph it would start running again and be alright for a few hours, then stop again. Now it is running but losing 10 minutes or more per day. It isn't doing the stuttering seconds hand to indicate low battery life so I don't know whether it's worth just replacing the movement or service it. Any thoughts guys?
  3. Unless i'm looking at this wrong then I would start at the 7 o'clock position on the last inner coil. Hold with tweezers at that point and very gently nudge towards the centre with another pair of tweezers. from there I would gradually work my way around to the 9 o'clock position doing the same. This should take the pressure off the problem between the 3 o'clock & 5 o'clock position. May have to tweek the terminal centre curve to bring the collet back to centre.
  4. Cheers, the glass reads Camden Town Brewery, it's a Pale Ale I favour http://www.camdentownbrewery.com/camden-pale-ale/ It doesn't stay sad looking for long ;)
  5. Thanks for the kind words guys. Geo, you are spot on. I was on a whole new level of feeling awesome when I finished :D Unfortunately, as nice as it looks I don't own the rest of the watch and I am dubious as to if the dial is genuine. I just do not know enough about the Breitling Chronomat Evolution that this belongs too? No matter, I paid roughly half of what a 7750 is currently fetching so with the added enjoyment of servicing the movement...I'm quids in! Just for added awesomeness, before I started this barely ran for more than 1-2 minutes with a really low amplitude, so I am definitely doing something right. Cheers.
  6. Well done! I remember when I first stripped down my first movement, a Unitas 6497. It all sat there in a tray like that and I thought "how on earth am I going to put that back together"! I still have that movement, it was one of the first few that did survive :D Good luck with the assembly and if I can give one piece of advice it will be, no matter how frustrated you get, don't tighten down a bridge or cock without constantly checking that there is free movement in the gear train or balance wheel! Pivots bend and snap with surprising ease ;)
  7. Eureka! Just completed my first chronograph service, an ETA 7750. Leading up to this I watched Mark's videos quite a few times and went through the ETA Swisslab. I finally plucked up the courage, ordered some Molykote DX and begun the strip down while I waited. I done the strip down without any instruction and was a little concerned that I had bit off more than I can chew. There were a couple of springs that caught me unaware but nothing was lost or broken ;) I labelled up several little storage tins so each section went into their own section with their screws as this is where I get caught out sometimes, using the wrong screw and having to backtrack later down the line. Whilst I waited for the Molykote (from the USA) I took all the parts into class and put them through the cleaning machine. As I didn't need the Molykote until the chrono module I built up the gear train and regulated it. The beat was out slightly, it was running +30 dial up but it had a healthy amplitude ~300 I soon had the beat error at 0 and soon after had it 0 secs per day dial up. in 4 positions it was not out anymore than 9 seconds (pendant down) Impressive! The Molykote arrived and I began the build up. I spent some time a few weeks back shaping the tips of my oilers and since then my oiling has improved significantly. This helped a lot building up the chrono module as it requires some very precise application. Finishing off the chrono module with the installation of the chrono bridge whilst engaging the reversing wheel click spring...Yes! Seeing the oscillating pinion happily turning away was a relief ;) It was at this point I began to work out how it actually all worked. The cam system with it's hammers and springs, the oscillating pinion with it's clutch & the hammer and the heart shape pieces, it's brilliant, so so clever. As you can probably guess I'm seriously impressed :) The rest of the assembly went without incident except a tricky moment with the date jumper spring but a bit of peg wood in the right place had that secured ;) It's all complete and I am looking forward to my next challenge (maybe a column wheel chrono) The ETA 7750 is a great movement, I enjoyed working with it very much. I have an Asian copy here that will no doubt be a bit more of a challenge! Cheers. Installation of the Chronograph cam and Hammer Cam Jumper Minute counting wheel, lock and operating lever installed. Chrono module complete, ready for the chorine bridge to be installed. Nearly there! Big spinny thing ;) All done. I have to reset the 2 of the hands but apart from that, it's running very well.
  8. The method our far eastern horological heroes use to construct this is a bit won key :) In the picture below you will see the movement is set into the movement ring from the front side and held in place by 2 screws. To get it in you have to remove the rotor. The dial (feet) then push into the movement ring and the whole lot is clamped into the case with 3 movement clamps around the movement ring. 2 problems you can expect are, the date wheel has an overlay to correct the font to Omega spec. If the movement is sitting to high in the movement ring then when you push the dial on it presses on the date ring and bang go's your date change. Same thing when you clamp it into the case. Over tighten it and the dial will press on the date ring. Just a word to the OP, when I mention "honesty" it's important that people know exactly what you have so they can give accurate information.
  9. A little honesty go's a long way when you're looking for help, old chap ;) There will be a tiny locating pin on the back of the omega logo and a tiny hole in the dial. Use a fine needle, dip it in your epoxy, touch the hole in the dial with your needle and locate the pin back into the hole. The logo will be extremely fragile and bend easily so go very gently. I will leave the hands to someone else as it's a bit more involved, but make suyou protect the dial when removing and refitting them. Good luck!
  10. ETA 2824 in an Omega Co-Axial...wow? Sent from my iBend 6
  11. My favourite watch in the whole wide world & I have one too. This is the 1675 PCG (Pointed Crown Guard) or 'corning' quite a sort after model with the horned crown guards, small GMT hand and chapter ring dial. It is a early 1960's model. Problem is the bracelet is wrong for this model, should be on a rivet or jubilee. None the less, a cracking watch and a cracking job you've done on it. Nice one!
  12. Yes, I think I may be able to help you. Take a picture of the movement through the glass at the back where the spinning wheel is.
  13. Here you go http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html A step by step flash animation of disassembly, assemble & adjustment of the 7750 including required lubricants and where to put them.
  14. Aha, I have just started on my first chrono which is a 7750. It's been cleaned and the base movement is back together, lubed and regulated. I am just waiting on Molykote DX before I start on the chrono module. Good luck, the ETA Swisslab has been a great help. Sent from my iBend 6
  15. I did indeed, the only thing I haven't oiled yet is the pallets. I have some 941 in class for that. Dial up all night it is about 45 seconds fast. Happy days :)
  16. Thanks for the replies guys. The cap jewels were definitely in the right way around. With the cap jewels removed I put some pressure on the jewel bearing and it didn't effect the running of the watch so the pivot had to be hitting the cap jewel. This was a watch I purchased when I had only just started Horology Training and it came with a shock jewel missing "a easy fix" as it was sold to me (I can hear the chuckling!) So I sourced a replacement shock jewel assembly and put it in and the watch started ticking...but not for long. It had very poor amplitude. I put it in the cupboard and forgot about it. Fast forward a year or so, got it out, sorted out the poor shape of the hairspring, serviced it and was left with this problem. Thank you clockboy, I cut a thin piece of plastic and put it under the balance cock and voila, it's running a treat now. On a stop watch it has gained 5 seconds over the last 3 hours without any regulation and that's on the wrist. I will take it into class tomorrow and put it on the timegraph. Conclusion, either I sourced the wrong size shock jewels or as clockboy says "the balance cock is bent" It's one of my personal watches so it can stay bodged for now ;) Cheers guys.
  17. Guys I am having trouble with a Smiths 27-CS movement. I have serviced it and had to do some work on the hairspring. That is now a nice shape, flat and round ;) Trouble I am having is that as soon as I engage the balance shock retention spring it either slows to a crawl or usually just stops. I have had a good look at the jewels and there are no cracks or wear. I can's see any noticable bend in either pivots and the watch runs absolutely fine unitl I engage the retention spring. The only thing I can think of at the moment is a bent pivot that I can's pick up on with the eye. The jewels are not wobbling before I engage the spring. Or, somehow the top of the pivot it making contact with the cap jewel? Any tips or tests I can do to work towards a solution?
  18. I was practicing on some Chineese Auto movements earlier this year. The whole gear train & Auto wheels were under one bridge. I think it was 7 pivots to get in their poorly machined place. That was patience/frustration to the max!
  19. Looking foward to the morning results!
  20. Montine of Switzerland Automatic. I don't really appreciate 70's design but this is such a comfortable, reliable & accurate watch I have started wearing it a fair bit. It has a AS1913-25 jewel movement that is a real peach. I put it on Monday morning and set it. This morning it is within 30 seconds of when I set it. The rotor is silent. The date quickset is via a press of the crown. I have it on a Hirsch Calfskin that is lovely. I have seen these go £30-£50 on eBay, that's a bargain!
  21. I had big problems with Mail when I upgraded to Yosemite, it wouldn't recognise my login details or when it did forgot them soon after. Also had the problem with the "certificate is not secure" I got fed up with it and I am now using Microsoft Office for Mac 2011 and using Outlook for mail. So far so good. Then other problem I am having (MacBook Air) is when I resume from sleep it loses my WiFi access point, the only way I can reconnect is turn off Wifi and turn it back on. I never had a single problem with Mavericks or it's predecessors.
  22. Just thinking out aloud here. You said in your previous post thread that you adjusted the banking pins inwards as they looked like they had been moved apart. Could this now be affecting the locking and unlocking of the escapement to cause knocking on the pallet jewels? If the impulse jewel is now sitting central of the pallet fork at rest then moving the banking pins back out may give the lever a bit more swing to clear the knocking on the pallet jewels. As long as it doesn't go into overbanking.
  23. Thank you gents, pleasure to be here.
  24. First up the interesting part :) 1969/70 Smiths Diver made in Cheltenham today. Not so interesting... I am a training Horologist (EFHC) living in London. I am into my second year of training and progressing nicely. My other interests are Open Water Swimming & Mountain Biking. I am training as a hobbyist rather than a potential professional but when retirement comes in quite a while yet, who knows? Up to now I have covered many hand wind movements with day/date complications including instant changers. Quartz servicing. I have covered a few Autos like the Seiko's, ETA 28-- series and have just begun my first chronograph, a ETA 7750 which is disassembled, cleaned and just waiting on some lubricants before I begin the reassembly. Marks videos have been a great help to me and I thank you for them. Cheers!
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