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Everything posted by jaycey

  1. Ahh yes, looks like they have just done away with the end links/pieces and attached the bracelet direct to the case. Best option I suppose will be a replacement bracelet as a strap will probably have to be a custom job?
  2. Here;s my guess. COSC spec movements have to have a serial number. If this is not one of the COSC spec 501's then that might be your answer.
  3. It's a 7S26 movement. generally an accurate, reliable and pretty easy to service movement. No idea how that strap attaches to the case? If it works, then at a tenner it's a bargain!
  4. The die has to be hollow enough in the centre so it only presses on the retaining ring and doesn't contact the crystal as the retaining ring lowers towards the case during pressing.
  5. Another tip. Before I installed a gen crystal I bought a after market one from here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolex-Crystal-Reference-25-116-116-NEW-CLARK-/251481499503(2 actually) I used this to practice on. I Used a crystal press with a die that didn't foul the crystal to press it on evenly. This aftermarket one was a little snug, so I sanded the outside edge and used a smear of grease to press on the retaining ring. Went on a charm ;) The yen crystal was a perfect fit as expected. I must say though, with my eyes I found the Clarks crystal almost indistinguishable. I would have happily stayed with this one if I hadn't already bought a genuine. Clarity, magnification, shape...spot on.
  6. This is what the case will look like when the crystal is removed. Point A is the lip the crystal presses over. The bezel retaining ring then presses over the top of the crystal to secure it or press it up against this lip. Point B is where the dial will sit when it is installed. Point C is the Rehaut or the inner metal ring that you see sitting up from the dial.
  7. You mean the rehaut ring (part of the case) that the crystal pushes over? That squeezes between the crystal and retaining ring to hold the crystal in place and water seal it. So it like a sandwiche with the crystal in the centre. Sent from my iBend 6
  8. I have replaced the crystal on my 1675. You have to remove the bezel first by getting a case knife in-between the case and bezel and lifting the bezel off. It should clip off fairly easily. There will be a very thin friction washer below the bezel, lift that off carefully. The bezel retaining ring then holds the crystal in place. To remove this you have to get a thin bladed knife in-between the case and the retaining ring and gradually working around the ring start to lift the ring. once the ring is removed you can simply remove the crystal. I had the movement in place when I put the new crystal in to centralise the cyclops over the date window. The bezel retaining ring is then pressed evenly over the crystal, friction ring place onto the retaining ring and then the bezel simply clicks back in place. Here is the assembly parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/RETAINING-RING-BEZEL-INSERT-ROLEX-OLDER-GMT-BLACK-1675-16750-/160812131467?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257126648b
  9. Out of curiosity, in the diagram above, what does the arm that adjusts the beat error (marked with the blue arrow) actually act upon to make adjustments?
  10. Put one side of the hinge into it's locating groove. Cover movement with clingfilm. Then get a piece of sharpened pegwood to hold it in place while you press the other side into it's locating groove with another piece of sharpened pegwood. Or step 1 above then place a small amount of rodico over the spring leaving the hinge exposed while you press it in with your pegwood. Good luck.
  11. Ahh I see, no that tool I linked to is not for that.
  12. Is this https://www.hswalsh.com/product/bergeon-6918-etachron-key-studs-and-hairspring-collets-hk6918what you are looking for?
  13. Lugs attached to the case back, that's a nice twist. Great looking watch, well done you!
  14. Just had a look at the videos and the operating lever is fine. Try this... Grip the piece that is within the oval below with a pair of tweezers or similar. Rotate that piece counter clockwise until point A just passes point B. This wil hopefully reset the chronograph and allow you to operate it normally again. Try it and let us know how you get on.
  15. It's a fake ;) Sent from my iBend 6
  16. Looks like a problem in the operating lever area. That piece with 2 holes where it meets the chronograph cam, is that the lever?
  17. I bought the Mrs a Tag Heuer F1 Quartz Chrono some time ago and it has the Ronda 5021.D chrono movement. Just recently it started just stopping. Whilst it was stopped if I started the chronograph it would start running again and be alright for a few hours, then stop again. Now it is running but losing 10 minutes or more per day. It isn't doing the stuttering seconds hand to indicate low battery life so I don't know whether it's worth just replacing the movement or service it. Any thoughts guys?
  18. Unless i'm looking at this wrong then I would start at the 7 o'clock position on the last inner coil. Hold with tweezers at that point and very gently nudge towards the centre with another pair of tweezers. from there I would gradually work my way around to the 9 o'clock position doing the same. This should take the pressure off the problem between the 3 o'clock & 5 o'clock position. May have to tweek the terminal centre curve to bring the collet back to centre.
  19. Cheers, the glass reads Camden Town Brewery, it's a Pale Ale I favour http://www.camdentownbrewery.com/camden-pale-ale/ It doesn't stay sad looking for long ;)
  20. Thanks for the kind words guys. Geo, you are spot on. I was on a whole new level of feeling awesome when I finished :D Unfortunately, as nice as it looks I don't own the rest of the watch and I am dubious as to if the dial is genuine. I just do not know enough about the Breitling Chronomat Evolution that this belongs too? No matter, I paid roughly half of what a 7750 is currently fetching so with the added enjoyment of servicing the movement...I'm quids in! Just for added awesomeness, before I started this barely ran for more than 1-2 minutes with a really low amplitude, so I am definitely doing something right. Cheers.
  21. Well done! I remember when I first stripped down my first movement, a Unitas 6497. It all sat there in a tray like that and I thought "how on earth am I going to put that back together"! I still have that movement, it was one of the first few that did survive :D Good luck with the assembly and if I can give one piece of advice it will be, no matter how frustrated you get, don't tighten down a bridge or cock without constantly checking that there is free movement in the gear train or balance wheel! Pivots bend and snap with surprising ease ;)
  22. Eureka! Just completed my first chronograph service, an ETA 7750. Leading up to this I watched Mark's videos quite a few times and went through the ETA Swisslab. I finally plucked up the courage, ordered some Molykote DX and begun the strip down while I waited. I done the strip down without any instruction and was a little concerned that I had bit off more than I can chew. There were a couple of springs that caught me unaware but nothing was lost or broken ;) I labelled up several little storage tins so each section went into their own section with their screws as this is where I get caught out sometimes, using the wrong screw and having to backtrack later down the line. Whilst I waited for the Molykote (from the USA) I took all the parts into class and put them through the cleaning machine. As I didn't need the Molykote until the chrono module I built up the gear train and regulated it. The beat was out slightly, it was running +30 dial up but it had a healthy amplitude ~300 I soon had the beat error at 0 and soon after had it 0 secs per day dial up. in 4 positions it was not out anymore than 9 seconds (pendant down) Impressive! The Molykote arrived and I began the build up. I spent some time a few weeks back shaping the tips of my oilers and since then my oiling has improved significantly. This helped a lot building up the chrono module as it requires some very precise application. Finishing off the chrono module with the installation of the chrono bridge whilst engaging the reversing wheel click spring...Yes! Seeing the oscillating pinion happily turning away was a relief ;) It was at this point I began to work out how it actually all worked. The cam system with it's hammers and springs, the oscillating pinion with it's clutch & the hammer and the heart shape pieces, it's brilliant, so so clever. As you can probably guess I'm seriously impressed :) The rest of the assembly went without incident except a tricky moment with the date jumper spring but a bit of peg wood in the right place had that secured ;) It's all complete and I am looking forward to my next challenge (maybe a column wheel chrono) The ETA 7750 is a great movement, I enjoyed working with it very much. I have an Asian copy here that will no doubt be a bit more of a challenge! Cheers. Installation of the Chronograph cam and Hammer Cam Jumper Minute counting wheel, lock and operating lever installed. Chrono module complete, ready for the chorine bridge to be installed. Nearly there! Big spinny thing ;) All done. I have to reset the 2 of the hands but apart from that, it's running very well.
  23. The method our far eastern horological heroes use to construct this is a bit won key :) In the picture below you will see the movement is set into the movement ring from the front side and held in place by 2 screws. To get it in you have to remove the rotor. The dial (feet) then push into the movement ring and the whole lot is clamped into the case with 3 movement clamps around the movement ring. 2 problems you can expect are, the date wheel has an overlay to correct the font to Omega spec. If the movement is sitting to high in the movement ring then when you push the dial on it presses on the date ring and bang go's your date change. Same thing when you clamp it into the case. Over tighten it and the dial will press on the date ring. Just a word to the OP, when I mention "honesty" it's important that people know exactly what you have so they can give accurate information.
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