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  1. Ah, I figured that it might be that way, so I found an exact spec stem in Israel. I'm guessing that it might be a while before it turns up, but it was less than half the cost of one I found here in America, so I thought I'd take a flyer and see how the experience went. It's for an independent watch that uses a Felsa movement. I hadn't heard of them before, but I'm still very new to this. regards.
  2. I’m wondering about replacing watch stems. Which do you guys prefer for replacing yours? Do you search for direct replacements made for your exact movement? Does anyone use those “assorted” lots that many of the online parts suppliers has? And speaking of those assorted lots, from what I’ve seen, they usually have about 5-6 different styles shown to come in the package. How often is one of those going to fit a random (inexpensive) vintage swiss movement? I know very little about the proper procedure for determining stem size requirements. Regards.
  3. Thanks, oldhippy. It does help. I’m also researching as I go, so I’m accumulating knowledge. My specific need to know (regarding movements in hunter configuration vs. open-faced) is influenced by the fact that if components like spring barrels, balances, and train wheels are interchangeable between the two configurations (of the same brand and model, of course), then I can expand my search for parts for the movements that I have acquired. I want to eventually get to a point where I can repair these parts, not just replace; but replacement is the level I’m capable of right now. I also do not plan on making runners into non-runners for the sake of my particular watches, but finding movements with good balances that still are missing pieces or don't run isn't proving as easy as I was expecting. Regards.
  4. I have a question about the physical differences between an open face pocket watch movement and a hunter style movement. Specifically, I'm wondering how interchangeable parts are between the two (I'm talking only about models of the same brand and model number here). I would assume that manufacturers would attempt to keep wheels and works as compatible (and therefore swappable) as possible, while modifying only plates/bridges? From the pictures I've seen, the only real difference I can spot is where the sub-second hand is located. I've been looking online for this answer, but am coming up with no real information. Has anyone already looked into this that can shed some light on this subject? Regards.
  5. I’ve been seeing a lot of posts and articles describing watches as “military-style”. This got me to wondering just what attributes qualify a watch as such? Are there specific functions that must be present or is it purely an aesthetic? I mean, I think I can pick out a military-style watch if I'm looking at one, but when pressed by my wife to describe it, the words I use (chunky, hard-wearing, easily read dial, to name a few) could also be used to describe sport watches, really. I don’t want to be going around calling a sport watch a military watch or vice versa. Thanks.
  6. Say, that's kinda nifty! Is the dial from the original Timex? And that winder; it looks powerful!
  7. Wow! Just wow! What a beautiful illustration. It clearly shows what needs to be done and the difficulty involved. Thank you for the resource! Knowledge is a beautiful thing. Regards.
  8. Sorry guys, I just reread my previous post and looking back at it, I might have made it sound like I was going to dive right into doing the hard stuff. Actually, I have started looking into ebay for alternatives to practice on. Sadly, it’s been 15+ years since I ebay’d anything, so I missed an opportunity when I didn’t remember that you’re supposed to confirm a bid before it becomes official. I was reading the pop-up window when time expired… haha… lesson learned. Regards.
  9. I watched a YouTuber do a re-staff on a balance wheel, and the process doesn’t seem that scary (I can follow directions easily enough); however, I’m obviously not going to do something like that at my skill level (Lvl 0), and I’m not in a hurry to invest in the specialist tools before finding out if I like watch cleaning/repair enough to get deep into it. (Thank you JohnR725 for that additional information on balance staff replacement. It’s appreciated.) As for having a professional look at the watch, I’ll probably check into that, but I wonder whether this particular watch is worth the cost. I know I called it an heirloom in my first post but considering that I now know it has two issues, with the very real possibility of additional unknown ones, I would imagine replacement parts plus the services of a reputable watch repair would command more than the sentimental value. This watch is an heirloom, not an Heirloom. That being said, I came to this community because I’m interested in tinkering with small objects. Ideally, I would like to start my experience off by stripping a couple of watches down (both pocket and wrist) and put them back together, because it looks fun. It looks like getting to a point of stripping and cleaning a watch isn’t necessarily beyond a beginner’s monetary means. And swapping parts versus fixing them looks like a possibility. As for serial numbers, (khunter’s last image) I’ve been to the pocket watch database website for identifying my watch and was wondering whether the serial numbers on these watches sequential production numbers, but that would have been a heck of a lot of watches. Can these Waltham (or any other makers) serial numbers be decoded by average people? Regards.
  10. Well, it looks like my wife's watch has at least one more issue that I am now aware of. I opened the case back up and examined it more closely today, and it looks like it probably has a broken balance shaft. The balance wheel would tilt this way and that as I moved the case. It’s clearly not being held in place by the pivot points. I might wait on purchasing a replacement case until I gain a better understanding of what I might be getting myself into. It looks like the first thing I need is a more appropriate screwdriver set. I have a nice little multi-tip screwdriver, but the blade profiles are just a little too wide for the slots if I want to match the blade diameter to the screw. I was hoping that I would be able to make the watch run before committing any real money for a bunch of specialist tools, but who am I kidding; there are no free puppies. Time to research what members think is a reasonable minimalist tool kit. Regards.
  11. Neat watch! I like the graphic and type as well. Regards.
  12. Indeed it is a Spartan case. Thank you. You’ve been a wealth of information for me so far. I’ve had the back off before, but without having any idea until today what to do next, I had left it at that. So, do all 16s cases have a stem in the case that can be inserted into any 16s movement? Or regardless if it's long-necked stem or short-necked? Is it that standardized? Additionally, do the dial-side glass screw on/off like the backing plates? A number of cases I’ve seen for sale don’t look to have crystals with them. I was wondering just how much I can disassemble the existing case and reuse pieces. Is around $30-50 the going rate for a case? I've seen prices kind of all over. Thanks and regards.
  13. I need to get it out of the case, I guess really, but that hole does look crudded up with stuff.
  14. Sorry... I'm pretty sure I've written this topic right into the wrong sub-forum. Regards.
  15. Hello, I registered here to thank Mark (?) for his neat series of videos I found on YouTube. I have a bit of a bug for watches after my wife found an old mechanical wind-up watch at an estate sale. The videos and the sleuthing I’ve been doing since have been quite entertaining. I’ll keep it short here as I’ve already posted my first question in the repair section of the forum. Again, thanks so much for putting so much time and effort in on sharing your knowledge! (That goes for everyone!) Regards.
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