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number98

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  1. Hi, Can I check how do you close the collet of the watch hands without a staking tool? I have a upcoming watch that is on the way to me with loose hands. I don't know how to close the watch hands in order to make it tight and not loose. I heard something about the staking tool but it's very expensive. Even if I could afford it, I would not know how to use the staking tool. I want to know how do you guys do it and how and are there any pics? Thank you!!
  2. Hi, I've watched this video many times as a member here recommended me to watch this video before but I don't have the confident to work on my precious piece so I am looking for a subtle, less ferocious way of polishing. I've been hearing people who hand polish but when I google it, I can't find it. I keep seeing cape cod cloth, autosol and etc. I am looking for other methods apart from these that I just mentioned because aforementioned earlier those methods do not work.
  3. Hi, I was working on this Omega Planet Ocean and I noticed that there are two scratches on the polished side. I am not sure if the scratches were already here when I bought it or I scratched it when I removed the bezel using the A&F Rubber Bezel remover tool. Anyway It's been bugging me for the past few days. I want to polish it but I do not know what's the correct way of removing the scratches. I could use Dremel but I am afraid I would 1) remove metal 2) remove the sharp edges 3) distort the case shape 4) causes the surface blurry. I understand that some may just accept as it is and wear it but I can't and aforementioned earlier it's been really bugging me. I want to know what's the correct way of hand polishing (like what they learn in those watchmaking schools or in Switzerland) and not using a Cape Cod, Autosol and etc. I tried before Cape Cod and Autosol in the past before I started watchmaking and no doubt it's shiny but you could see there are even more scratches. Thanks!
  4. Hey guys, do you guys know what is the sandpaper grit to make brush finishing like the one on Rolex Submariner? I've been trying various stuffs like Scotchbrite, Japan Sabitoru abrasive block but it looked nothing like the Rolex finishing. I know Rolex uses the Bergeon Abrasive Wheel but I don't have the machine only Dremel. So I want to what sandpaper grit is the closest to the Sub. Thank you!
  5. Hi thank you very much for the reply. So I tried again sanding it with 800 grit sandpaper but this time I sanded each surface for quite some time but when I use 1200 grit and subsequently those 3M film, I can still see those fine scratches despite spending a lot of time with the 800 and 1200. Do you think I should try crosshatching sanding instead of sanding it parallel? Thanks!
  6. Attached is a photo of a bracelet where I polished two of its links. I haven't polished the rest of the links. Those blue circles are those fine scratches caused by the sandpaper.
  7. Hi, I am using 240, 400,600,1200,2000, 3M Yellow 12 Micron, Blue 9 Micron. Initially before I did all the sanding, it had scratches that were visible to the naked eyes. After doing the sanding and polishing using the Luxor Green Compound, I can see that although the surface has become shiny but it has a lot of fine scratches that weren't there before the sanding. So in that case what should I do? Should I restart the whole process again? Will it remove those fine scratches without adding any new scratches? Thanks!
  8. I believe it's 3M Lapping Blue Paper. Sorry but I thought you use the sandpaper to remove the initial deep scratches only? Not remove the scratches caused by the abrasive?
  9. Hi, I saw a couple of guides on the Internet where it teaches how to remove scratches from a Rolex by sanding the scratches using various sandpaper and 3M paper and polish it after sanding it. I've tried with a lot of watches and every time after I polish it, it will reveal those fine scratches/marks which I believe left by those sandpapers. Did I left out a step before polishing? Do you guys know how to remove those fine marks/scratches as it's bothering me crazy. Thanks!
  10. Hi guys thanks for the reply. I've checked with two eBay sellers who are selling the 086STZ000610 and one seller (who didn't state which case model the HE Valve would be compatible) replied and said that he had checked it for me and my case 168.1650 according to the Omega parts database required the 086ST0115 which he didn't have them and he mentioned that this 086STZ000610 is for later models of the Planet Ocean which he firmly believed it would not fit my watch and he would not give me a refund once it's been opened as it devalues the item while another seller responded to my message (the one which stated in his listing that this HE Valve is for case no 168.1650. 1651. 1652. 1653. 1658. 1660. 1663. More..........planet ocean.) saying that my watch model 2200.50.00 requires the HE Valve 086STZ000610 and I need to replace the whole complete Valve(which is 086STZ000610) as the 086ST0115 is only the steel cap not the whole assembly and he doesn't have it as SG no longer supply parts. I'm confused after reading both of their reply. I am not sure who to listen. I really need a consensus as I might sell my watch in future so I need one that is exactly the same as it came out of the box when I bought it as it might devalue the watch considerably. @JohnR725 Hi John, may I know where did you get this piece of information? Thanks! Once again, thank you to you both @noirrac1j and @JohnR725 who has helping me.
  11. Thanks for the reply J! So this should be normal right? I've never come across any Omega parts that have a second stock number. I believe this is a normal practice used by Omega right? In that case, I shall order it! Because I have been hesitating for quite a while now. Thanks for the help!
  12. Hi J, thank you for the help! Can I check do you know why are there two HE Valve for this 168.1650? Can I conclude that 086ST0115 = 086STZ000610? Up til now I still don't know why are there two models for the HE Valve. Thanks!
  13. Hi all, I would like to buy a HE Valve for my Omega Planet Ocean case no 168.1650 and according to Cousinsuk and other websites the reference no is 086ST0115. Unfortunately, it is restricted so I went to the bay and came across someone selling 086STZ000610 and it says that it's for I'm quoted "168.1650. 1651. 1652. 1653. 1658. 1660. 1663. More..........planet ocean." so I'm not sure is 086STZ000610 is 086ST0115 a not. Thanks!
  14. Hi, the other day I posted a topic regarding about cannon pinion height between 2824 and 2892 and thanks to a member help, I finally came to a conclusion that I need a H3 made by ETA but Cousinsuk currently do not have stock for the H3 Cannon Pinion with Drive Wheel. Hence I was thinking of buying Sellita H3 for SW200 instead but then I went to download the SW200 Interchangeability from Cousinsuk and apparently that part(same goes to the 4th wheel, hour wheel) is not compatible with ETA as the column under the ETA 2824 isn't ticked but on Ofrei website, they said that "SELLITA 4th wheels, Cannon Pinions, and Hour Wheels can be used in the ETA 2801-2, 2824-2, 2836-2 and related series of calibers.". I'm confused. I know the balance wheel with bridge is not interchange as I've tried before but not sure about the other parts. Can somebody shed some light on that? Thanks!
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