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About watson1

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  1. My next project is a pendulum clock. My challenge is to better 1second/day and see how far I can go with adjustments. If the timing accuracy of the timegrapher is out by 1 or 2seconds/day, then that makes a nonsense of trying to adjust for better than that.
  2. I watched a youtube that recommended taking a pic each time you removed a part. Then playing back that record shows the reverse of the order you need to use to get all the bits back into their respective positions. I also noticed that the loose parts were grouped together for different areas of the rebuild. Could some form of low tack sticky be used to hold the loose parts from rolling around? This Forum as a number of strip down/rebuild videos. What about buying a cheap damaged needs repair watch of similar size and age. It might give you some experience on that scale of work and just possibly some spare parts if they just happened to be the same size.
  3. I must be slow. It took me a re-read of you post to realise "vin" was not a comment but a signature !
  4. I don't agree. These simpler timegrapher claim to report rate errors down to 1second/day. That is 1 part in 86400 or approximately 11.6ppm Any good measuring instrument needs to have an accuracy/tolerance at least half the lowest measured resolution and preferably approaching one tenth of the measurement resolution. That puts the timegrapher's required accuracy into the 5ppm to 1ppm. If one wants to check that, then one requires an instrument that gives better than 2ppm and preferably 100ppb Any of the time standards are thousands of times better than that. Now back to the adjustment, if the (cheap chinese) timegrapher is found to be out of tolerance. I read/watched one of our watch builders adjust his timegrapher ( a real Witschi version), but he used a PC for his time standard. That drew a few adverse comments from others that said "no way a PC can give the accuracy required". Some even suggested using their mobile phones as their preferred time standard. youtube.com/watch?v=qgzzf6y5TSk
  5. metal to metal contact or metal to jewel contact. The "/" substitutes for an "or"
  6. and fig6 shows that the guessimated "rate" is not anywhere near zero. I conclude that a synchronised RCC cannot be used as an accurate timebase for a timegrapher. whereas this seems to say that a disciplined RCC corrects it's rate by trimming it's own oscillator. How do I tell them apart? Which takes me back to my Q2 & 3
  7. I have a couple of radio controlled clocks (RCC). They keep in step with each other and I use them to set watches and clocks to the correct time. I have just ordered a cheap chinese timegrapher and when it arrives I want to check and if necessary adjust it's timebase. Q1.) how accurate is the rate of a radio controlled clock? Q2,) is there a way to identify if my RCC are adjusting their time periodically? Q3.) can I rely on the rate of the 1second tick being accurate?
  8. Are the screwed weights a friction fit? Can they be screwed out slightly and not fall out later? I have seen some photographs with some weights on longer screws. Are these long screw versions intended for adjustment? Are the threads tighter to allow for not being screwed in till tight?
  9. Is this only for watches? Or does it also apply to clocks with balance wheel, or with pendulum?
  10. Engine oil has detergent in it. It keeps the crap suspended and the filter takes most of that out. In a clock/watch you need a pure oil that allows the crap to disperse away from the rotating parts. You want clean oil to separate the moving parts. It's the fine film held in with capillary action that prevents the metal to metal/jewel contact. This helps stop the grinding paste destroying the bearings.
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