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Everything posted by philipk5

  1. Agree with both above. Also have you got a new cell yet? They are particularly pricey for the V157 / V158 (Ā£50+)
  2. Replacing the capacitor on this watch is not difficult, provided you have the basic tools of a reasonable quality, and the confidence to use them properly. 1)Separate the strap. 2)Remove the case back. 3)Unscrew the rotor retaining screw. 4)Remove rotor and drive wheel. 5)Unscrew the two screws that retain capacitor cover. 6)Remove capacitor cover and insulator. 7)Remove capacitor. Reassemble in reverse order. Problems you may encounter include:- trying to find one or both of the loose capacitor retaining screws (escapology on a par with Houd
  3. The screw screws into the centre of the bearing so the only danger of overtightening is to break the screw! It should be tight enough to stay put but not so tight that it breaks (obvious but completely useless advice!!!) Glad to have helped.
  4. 396 / sr726 battery for timex v cell.
  5. Let me have your address (by pm) and I'll send you the screws.
  6. Do you have any broken/non working scrap ordinary quartz Hattori movements such as the PC21 ? If so use the the small screws that hold the coil etc in place. As far as the rotor holding screw as suggested invest in a magnet and scour thoroughly the general area it went missing. Missing small parts do seem to reappear given time to drop out of orbit! Good luck.
  7. Same two capacitor small screws as in pc21 etc movement. Are you in the UK ?
  8. There should be some more numbers/letters on the caseback which should help identify the movement. The use of the words "water proof" was replaced with "water resistant" some time ago (1969ish) by Seiko. The serial number quoted indicates the watch was made in October of a year ending in 8 (ie 1968, 1978, 1988etc. Hope this is useful and helps. (I am pleased with myself for regarding who could do repairs not saying .......Roy Wood!)
  9. Whereabouts are you? If in UK I can send a small amount of Alum. Cheers, Phil
  10. Surely if the second hand is "pulsing" then the coil / circuits are OK, and the problem is a mechanical one? Such as dust or dried/sticky oil gumming up the works. Before delving into a replacement movement try a small quantity of lighter fluid on the mechanical parts (not so much that it floods through and stains the dial) &/or invest in a demagnetiser / line release tool which will spin the hands quickly, usually freeing up the movement. Good luck
  11. On the basis that the cost being minimal, and you do no damage by using glue, why not give it a go? I have successfully used acrylic crystals as case backs on several watches that would otherwise have been scrapped. Phil
  12. On the basis that you can't make it any worse, I would suggest introducing it to a demagnetiser the sort that basically has a magnet on an electric motor that "pulses" a magnetic field and spins the movement at relatively high speed thus clearing (relocating) any debris/sticky oil. This is not really a repair but it can revive an otherwise dormant quartz movement introducing some suitable oil in the right places as well may help. Or if you are up to it you could tackle a strip/clean (a proper repair) as above.
  13. You could get one of each size from Cousins and by trial and error fit the one best suited. Also a suitable set of hands ordered at the same time would leave a spare complete movement and a repaired clock for less than the ebay item.
  14. Pierre pont = Stone bridge / bridge of stone ? Places didn't really have names just descriptions of the place which then went on to become place names. Wasn't there a fairy tale about some goats and someone living under a bridge?
  15. If you take out the plastic movement holder and (repeatedly) pull the crown out as if setting the time and then push it back whilst carefully studying any likely holes/dimples/levers etc, the release mechanism should become apparent. They can be tricky to find at times but it will be there somewhere! Good luck and let us know when you find it.
  16. There seems to be conflicting "information" when searching the net regarding when Le Coultre became Jaeger Le Coultre, and thus finding the latest date for my clock. There also seems to be no relevant info on Le Coultre and Sandoz, hence my posting on here. I think it has always been a desk clock and not a framed pocket watch? The overall size is 2 3/4 inches square.
  17. As part of my ongoing learning curve I am interested in finding out a bit more about the history of this clock. ( I hope the markings on the dial between the numbers are not Chinese characters!) The movement winds and runs but the hands seem to be loose and have a mind of their own. All in all a pretty clock (in my opinion)! Thanks
  18. Just to finish things off here are some more photos as requested
  19. I like to try and learn something new every day. Thanks to all the info provided on here I feel I am a couple of weeks in credit!! I am sort of pleased with the outcome, it will be less stressful carrying out any work. Many many thanks to all,...... now what battery goes in my Rolex Daytona?
  20. No problem, let me know if you end up with a good case, dial etc surplus to requirements.
  21. Blimey chaps, I wasn't expecting such a debate! All opinions and comments are very welcome. Seems like some much better photos of my clock are in order. Are there any particular areas to photograph that would help clarify the status? There is a phrase that springs to mind - "If you don't want to know the answer, don't ask the question." Genuine or not, either way I really like this clock. I am now somewhat curious for as close to a definitive answer(s) as is achievable from photographs. Thanks again for the opinions. Phil.
  22. Many thanks for the info. In the bottom left hand side at the rear it does say "Made in France" this seems at odds with the London on the dial. Would Elliott & Son have used French movements in the 50s? Or did the French use Elliott & Son dials? I thought it might be earlier than the 50s with the bevelled glass all round, and it just seems better made than I would expect from the 50s. Although I suppose all eras have good and not so good. It is really difficult to see the hairspring at the moment as it is doing what it should do. Will let it run down and re-assess with it stationary. M
  23. As part of a recent swap/exchange deal I have acquired this carriage clock. It runs but is very fast (10 minutes in 24 hours). It seems to me to be of a fair quality and before I start tinkering with it I would like a bit more information such as age, history, and most importantly should it only be "tinkered with" by someone with experience of this type of clock. Any comments/advice appreciated. Many thanks, Phil.
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