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VWatchie

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VWatchie last won the day on June 1

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About VWatchie

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    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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    Male
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. Nope, it looks like in the picture in my previous post around the entire barrel wall. As far as I can tell, the current spring is no different from all other Generale Ressorts springs I've handled. The GR spring feels quite a bit stiffer and more springy compared to the original spring which felt softer. It does not. The barrel rotates freely around the arbor and there are no hick-ups in the train.
  2. The measurements of the original Orient/Seiko mainspring are as follows: 0.95 x .115 x 370 x 10.55 Automatic (Height x Thickness x Length x Barrel Diameter) The closest replacement I've been able to find and the one I've been using is a Generale Ressorts spring: 0.95 x .12 x 400 x 10.5 Automatic The only lubrication I've done is the Kluber P125 around the barrel wall, and I do not lubricate the spring as it comes pre-lubricated. As far as I can remember the bridle of the GR spring and the original spring look the same or very similar. Unfortunately, I cannot verify this as I no longer have the original spring (per usual I mangled it in my K&D winder). And yes, just to make sure, I have no reason to believe the arbor hook slips out of the eye of the inner coil. If it did, the spring would unwind in an instant and it doesn't. When I wind the ratchet wheel screw using a screw driver (this watch isn’t hand wind able) it feels very smooth and the only plausible explanation, as I see it, is that the spring is constantly sliding as I wind. No mater how many revolutions I make on the ratchet wheel, unwinding always results in 4 revolutions of the ratchet wheel before the power reserve is depleted.
  3. Past midnight here in Sweden and I’m off to bed but I’ll research this carefully tomorrow and will report back. Thanks John!
  4. Unfortunately it didn't help one bit. If anything, things got from bad to worse. With a small amount of Kluber P125 the ratchet wheel would make 4.5 revolutions before slipping (about 17 hours of power reserve). With Kluber P125 around the entire wall and pretty generously at that, the ratchet wheel would only do 4 revolutions before slipping. I can't hear or feel the spring slipping so I count the revolutions when winding down. To make matters even more annoying I've ruined two new very expensive Generale Ressorts springs in the process trying to wind them back into my K&D mainspring winder (which really sucks). I first tried to get it back using my fingers, but it only resulted in slipping around and getting Kluber all over the place. I guess replacing mainsprings by hand requires quite a bit of practising. I can't remember when I felt this frustrated trying to fix a watch. It seems so easy, and still it fails. I wonder what those Japanese people are doing in the Orient/Seiko factory. In some thread someone mentioned that @jdm was the "master" of these Japanese movements and how to handle the barrel/mainspring. I haven't yet searched it like crazy it but I'll see what I can find. So, perhaps emery paper on the barrel wall to get a rough brass surface and then some Moebius Glissalube A? And again, I will have to order another mainspring, or a Bergeon mainspring winder, or both to make sure
  5. Oops, didn't read carefully enough. Thought 5134 was the calibre number. Here's a complete list of what CousinsUK have to offer for Patek cal.215 :
  6. I have no idea, but you'll hardly find any scrap movements to scavenge for parts on eBay, and Patek probably won't even bother to reply to any questions from a non certified watch repairer. I wouldn't be surprised if your only option will be to send it to Patek and pay for the repair through your nose. Sorry, for being so pessimistic. Anyway, best of luck! EDIT: You could try to ask cousinsuk.com to source it for you. Searched for cal. 5134 but unfortunately no match...
  7. I’m still struggling to get a decent power reserve on my Orient cal. 46E40. As far as I can tell and as a reference, the barrel and spring seem to be identical to the Seiko cal. 7S-series, for example my Seiko cal. 7S36B. As a replacement I use a brand new Generale Ressorts # GR2378X mainspring (0.95 x .12 x 400 x 10.5 Automatic). In my first attempt I used Moebius 8217 but only got about 24 hours of power reserve. I then read what I could find about it here on WRT and got inspired by this post by @nickelsilver. So, I got myself some emery paper, rubbed the wall so that the brass shone through and applied a thin layer of Moebius Glissalube A 8213 to the barrel wall. To keep the barrel steady while lubricating I shoved a smoothing broach in the hole of the barrel. However, when I was to remove the broach from the barrel it had gotten stuck in the barrel hole, and not realizing the broach is super finely threaded, and left threaded at that, I ruined the barrel trying to get it out of the hole So, I had to source a new barrel, and let me assure you, Orient and their retailers won’t be helpful. Eventually, I found a seller on eBay in Spain who knew the barrel between my Orient cal. 46E40 and Orient cal. 46943 are identical and I bought a scrap movement from him and extracted the barrel. After two weeks of waiting for the new (used) barrel, I decided not to rub the wall of the barrel but instead buy some uber-expensive Kluber P125 and apply it to the best of my ability in accordance with this post by @JohnR725. However, this only lessened the power reserve to about 17 hours. So, I took the barrel apart and took the below pictures of what I saw. Don’t know what the pictures add but nevertheless... I’m beginning to feel extremely frustrated about this and don’t know what to try next. Perhaps rub the barrel wall to expose some of the brass and apply Glissalube A? Perhaps no braking grease at all? Perhaps the replacement General Ressorts spring in some way just isn’t compatible with Japanese barrels? I’m really lost here and don’t know where to go next. So, some help and inspiration would be greatly appreciated.
  8. This is the final picture of the pallets during the assembly of the actual watch that is rushing when moving my arms around while working out. I browsed through all of the pictures where the pallets are visible but in none of them the guard pin is missing. Perhaps that's not what you're saying? Can you copy and paste the picture in which "One picture shows the fork short of guard pin"? Hopefully that will make it clear! EDIT: No I haven't tested the clearance of the guard pin but I'll consider it.
  9. One of my favourite vintage watches from the 70s houses an automatic ETA 2772. I have serviced it and everyday use is unproblematic. At full wind its amplitude is about 280 degrees dial up and dial down, and about 250 degrees in all other positions. The beat error varies between 0.0 ms and 0.3 ms depending on position and the rate is normally +/-5 seconds per day. However, when I take the watch for a brisk walk and some jogging while also moving my arms quite vigorously for about 40 minutes, the rate speeds up to about 400 seconds per day. As soon as I stop working out the rate returns to its normal +/-5 seconds per day. So, I have two questions: a) Why does my watch start to rush when I work out, swinging my arms, and b) Is there anything that can be done to fix it?
  10. Well, that's more like it! Great!
  11. Three very important words! Try to get as close as you can to where the mainspring slips.
  12. That's very interesting. I'm very much into Russian wrist watches but have never worked on any Russian clock. I know Vostok makes ship clocks available to anyone interested. Not sure new members can upload pictures but that would be a good and interesting start.
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