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VWatchie

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VWatchie last won the day on July 10

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About VWatchie

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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    Male
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    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Disassembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part separately. Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Assembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the assembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. The following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled on the movement. The Unitas calibre 6325 is very similar to the Unitas calibre 6498 which is the course movement on watchrepairlessons.com. Unfortunately, due to its increasing popularity, the Unitas calibre 6498 is becoming more and more expensive, although there are inexpensive Chinese clones. So, in my opinion, Unitas calibre 6325 is an excellent and inexpensive option for the course. As a matter of fact, there is a version of the Unitas calibre 6325 having a bridge configuration that looks to be identical to the Unitas calibre 6498. You’ll find plenty of watches housing the Unitas calibre 6325 on eBay. Unitas Calibre 6325 links: bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Unitas 6325 - mtr-Ranfft Unitas 6325 - 17jewels.info „Wehrmachtswerk“; Unitas 6325 - Junghans Vintage
  2. That looks very much like a Vostok 24XX movement. In the "Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough" thread, you'll find all the information you need to handle that type of anti-shock spring.
  3. When the dial and the hour hand aren’t mounted, the distance between the end of the hour wheel tube and the end of the cannon pinion, as indicated by the yellow arrow, looks perfectly fine to me. However, when the dial and hour hand are mounted, it looks like the hour hand has been pressed down to such an extreme extent that it lifts the hour wheel away from the movement. In this state, I’d be surprised if you can set the time of the hour hand when you rotate the crown, but if you can’t, as I suspect, I think my analysis is correct. You only have to press down the hour hand until it is flush with the end of the hour wheel tube. Anyway, the best way to solve this little mystery is to understand how the motion works operate in detail and to this end you'll find @HSL's posts the most useful. Well, JM2C!
  4. Without pictures, that's hard to say. The only thing that comes to mind is this: When replacing the dial make sure the dial doesn't foul the movement holder. If it does, it may look fine, but the dial then ends up too high above the movement making it difficult or even impossible to mount the hands.
  5. Well, it's not a week, it's not even a day, but it is an improvement!
  6. The last post I wrote on the F10 forum (WUS) was 5 days ago and I can still edit it, which feels reassuring should I find out that I've made some silly, embarrassing, or even serious mistake. What I do as a courtesy to other members is type the word "EDIT" below the original text and then add what I have to say. I think a week would be suitable/OK. There are pros and cons allowing more time for editing, but I'm very much like @AndyHull so my posts would on occasion benefit from it.
  7. As amazing as WRT is, the limited time for editing is IMO very, very annoying! I think we should be allowed to edit our posts for at least a week so that we can update and add info as we go. As it is now, we must basically scroll through the entire thread for new posts from the OP to find any additions or updates. Well, JM2C!
  8. Thank you for explaining how this part of the keyless works operates! However, the terminology is a constant source of confusion in our trade. The part that you name a crown wheel is indeed a winding pinion and it drives the crown wheel mounted on the barrel bridge.
  9. That spring is a "yoke spring" also known as a "return bar spring". It presses on the yoke/return bar. Make sure you get the yoke in place first, then the yoke spring, and finally place a bit of grease between the spring and the yoke where they meet. Do not grease before the spring is in place. Also, you must assemble the winding pinion, sliding pinion (also known as the clutch), and stem before you assemble the yoke and the yoke spring. Here are some pictures that you might find useful: OMEGA cal. 601 VOSTOK cal. 2409 AS cal. 1203
  10. A good option is to search eBay for "17 jewels pocket watch incabloc". If you're lucky you'll find an inexpensive watch in a so-so condition with a Unitas 6498 which may the perfect candidate for the watchrepairlessons.com courses. For example https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARNEX-Pocket-Watch-17-Jewels-Incabloc-Vintage/163808704023 There's some slight confusion about what movement is actually used in the courses, but it is indeed the Unitas 6498, not the Unitas 6497. Anyway, if you find a 6497 with a good price you can use that instead. For all practical purposes, it makes very little or no difference.
  11. Never in a thousand years would I have come up with the idea to drive an “annealed iron” into a watch movement to solve my problem, but in desperation, I tried this idea, and lo and behold, it worked! Sing Hallelujah! By removing the balance cock and the train wheel bridge I could get a good view of the dial feet and the dial screws. The dial screws had been screwed in so forcefully that they had deformed the dial feet into a concave shape. I’m surprised the slots of the dial screws could survive such extreme abuse, but of course, the slots were in very bad shape too. However, I could see zero traces of glue. Using my stereomicroscope, I dressed up a screwdriver to fit one of the slots the best I possibly could. I then heated up a paper clip having approx. the same diameter as the dial screw hole under candlelight (not best heat source) until it was glowing red and then quickly shoved it into the dial screw hole and pressed it against the screw. After having cooled off for a few minutes I tried unscrewing but feeling how the remains of the slot were beginning to give in I paused, thinking this must surely be a hopeless case. Anyway, at this point I thought it could possibly help, although I had very little hope at this point, to repeat the “paper clip trick” a few times but only try unscrewing after the last heating/cooling cycle. The idea was that this would repeatedly nudge the screw. So, the last attempt, thinking “all or nothing”, deep breath, and miracles of miracles the screw came loose! I repeated the process with the second dial screw and it too came loose. At this point, I ran out to our living room, where my wife and daughter were watching some TV show, made a victory dance and explained what I had just managed. My wife and daughter rolled their eyes and continued watching the TV show. So, I’m extremely grateful for your tips, and encouragement to be patient. Thank you!
  12. Just checked the price for the 1A on Cousins and it is £76.75 with 20 % tax included. Just order it, you know you want it!
  13. May I ask what site the screenshot is from? Cousins have it for £10.50 (£12.60 with tax). I've placed it in my shopping basket so that I won't forget it when I place my next order. Thanks a bunch!
  14. I don't think you need the three-piece set, just the 1A. As most Bergeon tools it is still silly expensive, but I personally just couldn't live without it.
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