GeorgeC reacted to saswatch88 in Benrus 46374 military issue movt removal
Just like the 3818B, type I, type II, and Hamilton GG-W-113 there is no way to remove movement without separating the split stem. So its a judgment call on your end. Is it worth the risk of damage? You haven’t worked with it before and you did say it ran so maybe leaving it as is would be your best choice. I have one in my collection its runs for about 7 hours and that’s good enough for me. These were made to be worn and thrown away but doesn’t mean they cant be serviced the movement is the same as type I only difference would be that its a 7 jewel movement.
GeorgeC reacted to Mark in Update about WRT - Website Images & Other stuff
You may have noticed a few changes - I have removed the Gallery section and the CMS pages app from the site as it costs too much to 'rent' those modules with comparatively very little use by members - it just did not make sense to keep them going. I apologise if this inconveniences or annoys anybody but I think it is better to keep the core of this website to be a discussion forum.
The WRT website is costing me a lot of money per month to run and I am making a few changes to help with that - there is a little income from eBay affiliate ads but not enough to cover the cost of hosting and some help from Patrons and for this we are very grateful. The site has over 30GB in uploaded media now!!! And the notification emails generated is quite high too - I have to use a separate company to handle this so that the site doesn't get email black-listed. One of these services suddenly and without notice stopped our service a few months ago and it was a few days before anybody even noticed (password reset emails were no longer working). I did manage to find a new email provider and things have been running smoothly ever since.
Getting back to the uploaded media, as mentioned it's over 30GB and this covers images in topics going back several years. I do back this up every night and I backup the site database every hour in order to protect the content should we ever have a disaster I have a Synology NAS here in the office which has a full backup on and I also keep a backup offsite on a cloud service.
I have also decided to use Amazon Cloudfront to host all the uploaded media. I am in the process of migrating this content over and you may notice broken images for a very short period during the migration. But ultimately this will maintain and even improve performance of the site.
Anyway, all being said, this is a fantastic community and I am fully committed to continuing with it's administration, keeping our little corner of the net alive
- Just a little update to let you know what's happening -
GeorgeC reacted to vinn3 in Completely shattered Crystal - watch repairable or not?
don't forget safety glasses. vin
GeorgeC reacted to VWatchie in ETA 1080 "cap jewels" oiling help needed
So finished reassembling and lubricating my grandfather's ETA 1080 today and took a couple of pictures of it before putting it back into its case.
For anyone interested I assembled the movement in the order shown by these pictures (000A.jpg, 000B.jpg, 001.jpg to 073.jpg). The pictures were taken during disassembly so the parts in the pictures are somewhat dirty. The pictures were intended for my personal use, so some of the text and coloured arrows might seem somewhat cryptical.
And finally, a slow-motion video of the balance in motion can be seen here. This watch was last used some 40 years ago or so, so just wonderful to see it tick again!
This was my first ETA movement and compared the Vostoks and Poljots I've been working on before I must say the fit and finish is indeed a notch or two better. I really enjoyed doing my first Swiss watch (except for the Unitas 6498 in Mark's watch repair lessons).
GeorgeC got a reaction from jdm in How can I fix this broken Seiko bracelet?
I have repaired quite a few of these type bands. The U shaped pins / plates indicated by the blue arrows appear to be the ones that are more easily removed. You should see directional removing arrows stamped on the inside of the band. The plates pointed to with red arrows are removable but will take more care in getting those out. Unfortunately, this is the part that has been broken in your case.
You may experiment with removing one of the plates indicated with the blue arrows just to see how they are removed.
GeorgeC reacted to Johnnie in Please allow me to introduce myself...
Hi Brian and welcome to the asylum, I am sure you will fit in well firstly you cannot have enough watches! Secondly, if you hadn't thrown grandpa's watch on the floor you wouldn't have found this brilliant forum. Thirdly, every thing can be fixed, and this forum has some very knowledgeable guy's and girl's who are happy to give you advice without making you feel stupid for asking, (I am most definitely not one of those knowledgeable people) the only good advice I give people is to look both ways when crossing the road. Anyway enjoy the forum and I wish you every success in repairing grandpa's pocket watch.
GeorgeC reacted to youngbrian in Please allow me to introduce myself...
Hi all, Brian Young here. I am not a watch or clock repairer. I came to this website to hopefully gain some insight to watches and watch repair. I recently inherited a pocket watch from my mother; it was her father's Illinois pocket watch made in 1911. I no sooner got it home when I dropped it onto the tile kitchen floor. As you might expect, it no longer works. It lasted 108 years before me and one week after me. I hope you all don't mind if I glom on to your site and pick your brains for info.
In the last month, I have purchased two early 1900's Illinois pocket watches, both running, and can't bring myself to cannibalize them in order to get Grandpa's watch running again. So, now I own three pocket watches, two from 1905, running, and one from 1911, needing a balance stem. Hope I haven't broken protocol by talking about the reason why I am here in the introduction post. If so, sorry. I'm not really a rebel. I'm just clueless.
Thank you for having me.
GeorgeC got a reaction from oldhippy in Making the micro regulator adjustments
To prevent any marks from a tool such as a metal screwdriver, I could fashion a plastic pixie stick or a piece of peg-wood to a flat end and give that a slight twist for control. Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
GeorgeC reacted to m1ks in Making the micro regulator adjustments
Most likely, most of us are like yourself, it's like a dance.
I try to brace my hand and use a twisting motion with the tool rather than a push to move in very tiny increments.
Also I recommend restarting the timegrapher after an adjustment and allowing a few seconds for the amplitude to settle.
GeorgeC got a reaction from WatchMaker in Shock Spring
I would think that this is more a retaining clip vs a shock spring. I recall another forum member mentioning this about the Kif duofix. He described that for a third or fourth wheel where the pivot didn't have a substantial shoulder to contact the hole jewel to arrest the shock beyond the 'spring' giving way, this shows that the spring/clip really was meant as a retaining device for the cap jewel. The incabloc style shock system allowed for the spring to absorb the smaller shocks and, if significant, the shoulder of the staff would contact the hole jewel to further protect the pivots.
GeorgeC reacted to Marc in Is there a technique for installing this shock spring
To be fair (and not particularly helpful since the spring has already been removed) the trick is to not remove them in the first place. They are designed such that once the tail is free the whole spring can be hinged upwards, pivoting around the tips of the arms until the cap jewel can be slid out from underneath. Reinstallation of the cap jewel is simply the reverse sequence.
Interestingly, these are not strictly shock absorbers, rather they are just retaining clips. The design of shock absorber settings is such as to allow the pivot to enter further into the setting under shock until a shoulder on the staff, which is much more substantial than the pivot, contacts the jewel and arrests the movement without damaging the delicate pivot. The spring then returns the staff to its operational position. If you look at the pivots of the wheels served by these settings you will find no such shoulder as the pivot is already substantial enough to withstand most knocks without ill effect. Also the springs flex only very little as a function of the mass of the wheel they support, unlike the shock protection set up on balance wheels where you have a comparatively large mass, a very fine pivot, and a lot of flex in the spring.
That being said they probably do flex under extreme shock and as such may help to protect the pivot.
GeorgeC reacted to oldhippy in Watch dial help for a student
Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
You could google watches for the blind and take a look at some images, that would give you some idea. There are also watches that work on batteries, you press a button and it tells you the time, no hands needed. Don't forget if you use numbers or figures they need to be razed.
GeorgeC reacted to Nucejoe in Whats wrong with my Omega?
Dose it repeat stoping at same hands position( time)? You probably removed hands altogether. Eliminate hands one at a time.
When it stops, remove seconds hand only. if the fault has remained. remove the minute hand as well, if the fault remains, remove the hour hand.
Dirty or faulty center tube, bent seconds hand, worn out center hole, dial plate center hole drift, so on.
GeorgeC reacted to jdm in Automatic watch not working after reassembly(Vintage Seiko 7002 Divers Watch)
That can easily be the escape wheel which has broken one or both pivots, and is not resting anymore against the pallets.
GeorgeC got a reaction from MrRoundel in Omega C.342 service
If you have cleaned the movement, then the pallet fork should not be installed at this point. Install it after all of the train wheels are in.
With the watch in a movement holder, carefully place all of the train wheels in their proper order and in their jewel holes. Then place the upper plate over the wheels gently and as close to level as you can. At this point you could use a piece of peg wood to apply gentle pressure to the top plate and turn the center wheel to watch for all train wheels to move smoothly. It really is a matter of learning the “touch” of acceptable pressure and nudging the wheels into their pivots. Comes with experience.
Once you have them in place, continue to hold the peg wood in place until you get the plate screws in. Then slowly tighten the plate screws, always checking that the wheels are still moving freely.
GeorgeC reacted to oldhippy in How are stainless steel watch cases polished
Have a look at this. This will give you an idea what you will need. Don't forget protect your eyes.
I recommend you remove the watch movement.
GeorgeC reacted to jdm in No adjustment left on beat corrector
0.5ms beat error is a perfectly acceptable value and will not influence accuracy.
If you don't believe that, regulate to the best positions average, wear the watch few days and let us know.
Unless you are interested in learning how the hairspring collett is adjusted, which is a pretty delicate task, I would not recommend you try that on a balance cock with movable stud arm.