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RCroman

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  1. Thanks... especially for the service manual sections! Of course my goal is to beat the spec, or at least get well into the "premium" category. I set the timing machine to 60-second averaging and waited about 20 seconds after changing positions to start each measurement. Repeated a couple of times... very consistent readings. My main question at the moment is what could be causing a significant DU/DD rate difference with no change in amplitude. So far the suggested cause that seems the most likely is excessive balance end shake. It also occurred to me that possibly the hairspring is out of flat (or sitting low) such that it comes into contact with the ends of the regulator pins in the DD position, shortening the effective length and causing a fast rate. I guess excessive end shake could cause exactly that effect as well.
  2. Thanks for the helpful reply! Beat error is good in all positions... 0.3ms or less. I’ve got DeCarle’s book, so I’ll go through that step by step.
  3. Howdy, y'all! I'm a relative newbie to watch repairing, but learning fast. I have done levels one through three of the TimeZone Watch School and have been consuming Mark's videos voraciously. I have a little collection going... several "nice" watches that I mostly don't touch other than simple regulation if needed, plus a growing number of lower-end pieces that I'm willing to sacrifice to my education. Watches worked on so far... ETA 2801-2 – disassembly, reassembly (TZ watch school level 1) ETA 2436-2 – full service (TZ watch school level 2) Seiko Recraft SNKN37 – full service and adjustment (dynamic poising) Seiko SRPB41 – adjustment, followed by balance replacement Vostok Amphibia – full service and adjustment, crystal polish Next up... Poljot Sputnik – full service and adjustment as needed Elgin 1905 18s pocket watch – full service and adjustment as needed Oris Big Crown Propilot Altimeter – considering adjusting it, as it's poise is off more than I'd like I'm an electrical engineer (analog/RF IC design) by training and have had various hobbies including windsurfing, paragliding, astrophotography, coffee roasting, general aviation, and now watch repairing. -Russ
  4. Thanks, jdm. The low-amplitude measurements are purely for making it easier to determine where the heavy side of the balance wheel is, per the procedure discussed here. At higher amplitudes, the poise errors are less prominent and typically inverted (position that is slowest at low amplitude becomes the fastest at high amplitude). I'll find the intro space and make an entrance.
  5. Hi, I have an Oris watch based on the Sellita SW200-1 movement (a copy of the ETA 2824) that I am considering performing dynamic poising on. I'm fairly new to this, having done it on three low-end watches so far with reasonable success, following the procedures outlined here. Here are the rates and amplitudes at low amplitude (~155°) and at full wind: Position Rate (low wind) Amp Rate (full wind) Amp DU -26 166 -5 303 DD -20 171 +4 301 PL -20 152 -7 287 -22 148 -10 281 PU -20 155 -1 287 -44 148 +3 284 PR -39 160 +9 285 -45 155 +8 289 PD -39 151 +5 279 -32 149 -2 280 Of course the first thing I want to do is to align the DU and DD rates. But the amplitudes are nearly identical, at least a full wind. What could be causing a nine-second difference in DU vs. DD with virtually no amplitude difference? Thanks, Russ
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