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MrRoundel

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  1. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to vinn3 in Vintage wrist-watch crystals, simplifiable?   
    I use 3 and 4 jaw chucks, large and small on a "compound lathe".   how does a " bezel - chuck" grab a crystol?  with a 4 jaw,  you invert the jaws and grab the inside so you can cut the outer diameter.   do they make chucks for jewelers lathes?   vin
  2. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to vinn3 in Vintage wrist-watch crystals, simplifiable?   
    that is a wyler style case, yes.  the wyler crystols are unique to this watch AND hard to find.  if you have a lathe,  cut an "aftermarket" crystol to the proper inside and out side to a "press fit" since it is the only thing that holds the watch together.  good luck.  vin
  3. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to manodeoro in Vintage wrist-watch crystals, simplifiable?   
    If your assembly is midcase with rehaut / plexi / bezel then you could the method I use.
    1 - measure the outer diameter of the rehaut and the inner diameter of the bezel.
    2 - search on cousinsuk a plexi with the closest profile, inner diameter a little too small for the rehaut and outer diameter a little too large for the bezel.
    3 - gently sand with 2000 grade the inside diameter of the plexi until you can press it on the rehaut with a tight fit
    4 - remove the plexi and gently sand with 2000 grade the outer diameter of the plexi until you can press it inside the rehaut with a tight fit
    5 - clean everything
    6 - put a tiny bit of grease on the rehaut to help and press the plexi back
    7 - put a tiny bit of grease on the bezel and press it over the plexi with a crystal press
    Using that method I got good results with even 6 ATM waterproofness.


    Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk


  4. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to vinn3 in Pocket watch barrel bridge and barrel disassembly   
    no problem; keep going, you are learning to hate that type of escapment.  vin
  5. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to oldhippy in Pocket watch barrel bridge and barrel disassembly   
    The correct way would be to let the power down with the correct size watch key, by moving the click away from the ratchet, that is located under the little plate, held by the tiny screws. Always remember with a cylinder escapement there are no pallets, so power must be released first before any attempt is made removing the balance.
    So you have the barrel and the bridge all together. Remove the barrel cape and remove the spring. The barrel arbor should unscrew and become two pieces, and then it will come away from the bridge. Many are not easy to take completely apart, if you find this my advice would be to clean it as it is, you do not want to damage the arbor. You have the thin plate off which exposes the ratchet, that is the part that is going to be the most dirty part and underneath.
    I cannot remember which way the arbor unscrews. Its over 25 years ago for me. Not all arbors have the two holes as in the diagram above. so be careful. 
  6. Thanks
    MrRoundel got a reaction from Klassiker in Pocket watch barrel bridge and barrel disassembly   
    It may have a two-piece barrel-arbor. That means that in order to remove it from the bridge, you must unscrew the sides of the arbor. That's what I had to do do on a Vacheron that I worked on recently.
    When oldhippy wakes up, he may tell you that the arbor has left-handed threads, so be careful, and don't proceed until you know. You can snap the square off the arbor. Sorry to say, but I have done it.
    If you indeed got as lucky as you think you did when you pulled the balance, it was probably because there was very little power left in the mainspring. All's well if it ends well. Good luck with the watch.
  7. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to JohnR725 in ETA 955.114, quartz movements in general?   
    As a reminder you need to pay attention to the data sheet when measuring electrical parameters of watches. For instance to measure coil resistance with the coil attached the meter cannot supply over  0.2 V otherwise the circuit may turn on and give a false reading. The data sheet says anything over 0.4 is unsuitable for measuring coil resistance. Normally when you're buying a meter you not paying attention to this. Occasionally some meters will have a diode symbol indicate though supply enough voltage to turn on a semi conductor device you can test.
    Then I'm attaching a PDF that explains about measuring current consumption. Whether it's an analog or digital meter you need either a capacitor or capacitor and a resistor to basically average the current consumption. When the watch is not driving the stepping motor it's drawing of a very tiny current. When it's driving the coil it's a very short high current pulse and the tech sheets have the average.
    microamp.pdf
  8. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to Chase in Give away   
    So everyone knows that's interested, all these tools where owned and used by the same watch/clock repair, jeweler that owned the Boley C60 I refurbished and posted about here in the forum.
    Best I can tell he was still in business back in 1979 locally. Of course since, retired, and passed away. 
    As stated, I'm just trying to pass on some little things I managed to aquire that were his tools of the trade.
    Not the Boley C60 though..  that one I'm keeping for a bit. :-) It's a real nice vise.
    Cheers...
  9. Like
    MrRoundel got a reaction from Lwayslate in How to remove stem on Certina 29-252 Quartz   
    The hole made the most sense once I realized that the other spot was a bit far from where most releases/detents would be. Good luck with the job.
  10. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to jdm in TV ads   
    At 2:10 the guy picks up a bridge with bare hands, drops it, hits the holder on the 2nd try... I felt reassured about my technique LoL.
     
  11. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to Nucejoe in Audemars piguet 3120   
    May thanks. 
  12. Haha
    MrRoundel got a reaction from Nucejoe in Audemars piguet 3120   
    You don't need to be a member to join the message board. If you go to NAWCC.org and go to the watch forums, you'll probably see him posting in the European pocket-watch forum. You might then be able to send him a personal message. Good luck.
  13. Thanks
    MrRoundel got a reaction from Nucejoe in Audemars piguet 3120   
    There's a relative of Audemars (Posts under that name.) who contributes regularly on the NAWCC message board. He seems like a nice guy. He might be able to help. Good luck.,
     
     
  14. Like
    MrRoundel got a reaction from watchweasol in What is wrong with this?   
    It looks like somebody got a real good grip on the barrel with that steel-jawed vise, doesn't it? Steel with leverage versus brass. We know what wins. Butchery, to be sure.
  15. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to nickelsilver in Hamilton Model 21 chronometer. Cleaning Solution?   
    Tripping can definitely be from the passing spring being in contact too long. It can be from a few other things too. You need to slowly rotate the balance and see the action. The detent should release the escape wheel a hair before the impulse jewel is on center line, then return as quickly as possible well before the escape wheel has finished impulse. It can be a bit of a tap dance between the passing spring impulse jewel and banking.
  16. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to berniethebolt in waltham hands   
    Yes looked it up. It's a 1908 movement 
     
  17. Like
    MrRoundel got a reaction from berniethebolt in waltham hands   
    I just thought of the fact that I may have seen "Traveler" marked on 1888 models as well. And I just verified this in "The Complete Guide to Pocket Watches".  If yours is an '88 model, I hope you have a case for it. Like the '72 model Waltham, they take a special case.
    If you can provide an image, or at least the serial number, from the movement, the model can be determined. Cheers.
     
  18. Like
    MrRoundel got a reaction from berniethebolt in waltham hands   
    That should be either a model 1908 or 1899. There are few differences between them, and I'd guess that the hands are the same. Very common movement. I believe the Traveler, mostly a gilt finished movement, was made for export, with most being sold in Britain. Good luck.
     
  19. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to JohnR725 in Demagnetizer Recommendations   
    For anyone that's not sure how there supposed to be using the coil type demagnetizer this is what Omega recommends. Then even though it's in the picture I'm going to quote some text "Demagnetisation according to the three axes x, y and z is necessary when using this type of instrument. Do not release the instrument when the object is inside the tunnel as it could finish up being more magnetised than before." Then you will notice in the fine print a minimum of 50 cm away from the coil before you take your finger off the button and five seconds to get to the 50 cm. 

  20. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to JohnR725 in Demagnetizer Recommendations   
    The other thing that is needed when playing with magnets and watches is a way of figuring out if your watch really is magnetized or not.
    So there's the old-fashioned way with a compass image attached for how to do that. then a link to a free app for your phone from a company that wants to sell a really expensive demagnetizer.
    https://www.lepsi.ch/watch-demagnetizer/
     

  21. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to nickelsilver in Re-pivoting a clock wheels.   
    The Rollimat is a wonderful tool and more than pays for itself in a few months in a professional situation. It uses the same carbide burnishing wheel as industrial machines that finishes clock (and watch) pivots in the factory. Totally an "auto jacot" tool.

    That guy has a good technique there, and agree with OH it can be done with simpler tools. I know a number of clock and watchmakers though who have the "tool bug" and enjoy finding and using machines most regular shops would find overkill. In some cases they do save time but not necessarily do a better job; part of the fun is just using them.
  22. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to Moose in National Watch Cleaning Machine. Restoration and repair.   
    So - That's it...
    I hope someone gets some information and maybe, a little pleasure from reading this series of posts. 
    These Nationals are likely to become increasingly rare, especially working examples, as it seems a certain generation of older watchmakers are disposing of their ancient equipment. Or more likely, and sadly, the descendants of older watchmakers and repairers dispose of their loved one's estates and wonder what can be done with this heavy old bit of junk in Grandad's shed...
    I really enjoyed working on this old machine and putting it back into useful service as my own, hobbyists watch cleaner. As well learning a little bit about the business of Mr Saul Lanzetter and his National brand and some of the patents in his name, which may or may not, have led to many such machines and their derivatives being sold all over the world.
    All that remains now, is to find a watch of mine that is next in line for a strip down, fix, clean and rebuild and put this little machine back into productive service.
    To that end, I'm waiting for the new 7750 video by Mark due anytime now. Ok - now where exactly did I put that tired old Valjoux 7750 when I cleared the decks for this old thing?


  23. Like
    MrRoundel got a reaction from vinn3 in Hamilton Model 21 chronometer. Cleaning Solution?   
    Greetings folks. I've been working on watches as a hobby for about 20 years now.  I started out on pocket watches and have never cleaned a clock. In fact, I had a great cleaning machine, with the big jars, and a few other clock tools, that I gave away to an aspiring clock guy over at the Tascione site. But I digress...
    Nearly 20 years ago I bought a Hamilton model 21 ship's chronometer. It's an early one, pre 400 serial number, and is a thing of beauty, as these generally are. Back when I got it, I had a professional service it for me. It was done well, but wasn't cheap. $400-500, IIRC. I used to display it in my living room and run it occasionally just to hear the escapement and marvel it its accuracy. From about 2009 to 2014 it sat in my storage unit, waiting for new digs. In 2014 I wound it up and it took off running. I let it run down and then put it away for a couple of years. When I pulled it out, I discovered that it had a broken balance pivot. While originally I thought someone had knocked it over and wasn't copping to it, but now, after inspecting the upper pivot's wear, I don't think that's the case.
    After botching the first staff I got trying to replace the hub, I set it aside again for the past couple of years. The way I broke the staff was I overestimated how deep the hollowness went in my hollow punch that I was using to tap it on. It bottomed out in the punch and destroyed the pivot.
    Now that I'm finally over that disappointment, I decided to give it another go. I bought a staff that already had the hub installed. I may have to polish the lower pivot, as it doesn't seem to want to set in the hole jewel properly. I'm in the process of verifying all of this. I had to tear down the chronometer at least to the point where I could check to see if the broken part of the pivot was impeding the staff from setting properly. The hole jewel is clear.
    I'm doing the best I can to do it right, and get it running again. I won't be running it, but want it running just in case I should decide to sell it. Otherwise the value drops quite a bit. Since I have it completely torn down now, I might as well clean and oil it. Does anyone have a hot tip on the best cleaning solutions for cleaning these chronometers? I'd like to use something that will cross over and work for my cleaning of watches as well. I have both an ultrasonic and the small L&R mechanical. I have one more fresh batch of cleaner and rinse, petroleum, no-water, formula. Should I use that, or make, or get, something new? Any tips for oil and grease types to get me by? Any suggestions are appreciated.
    I do have the Manual for the movement.
    I know that this is risky business, my working on this chrono, but I just can't afford to spend another $500 to get it running. Plus, I heard that if you're going to run these, you've got to spend this $500 or so to service them every few years. That is not going to happen. Feedback, suggestions, warnings, tips, etc., are all welcome. Many thanks. Cheers.
     
  24. Like
    MrRoundel got a reaction from vinn3 in Hamilton Model 21 chronometer. Cleaning Solution?   
    Thanks, oldhippy. No, mine does not have the screw. The manual says that they didn't start that until serial number 3500, and they weren't standard on all  until serial 4003. Mine has a serial in the high 300's.
    I have made the preliminary decision to reassemble the movement w/o a thorough cleaning. I'm just not set up for cleaning such large parts. As I mentioned, I gifted my big cleaner. The movement still has signs of liquid oil from its service from year ago, except at the balance jewels. If I decide to go ahead with the incomplete job, I will clean and oil the balance endstones and hole jewels before reassembly. I may also oil other pivots with a dab or two. Heck, since the stuff's just going to dry out in 5 years anyway, and I'm not going to run it, what's the point?
    I will clean the the escapement parts, as they do show signs of dried oil, etc., on them.
    I can be talked out of this if it sounds completely insane, as I am just now working to replace the upper train-bridge, which isn't going easily onto the pillars. I hate that. It's a reason I don't like Hampden full-plate pocket watches. I've had to replace the plates by slowly tightening the plate screws, and watching to make sure the pivots are lined up well. Otherwise, well, you know what would happen. Nerve-wracking.
    The image I am including is the best I can do, as I had already removed the balance from the movement. If you need another view, I have a couple more, but they are really just to aid my reassembly of the train wheels, etc.
     

  25. Like
    MrRoundel reacted to oldhippy in Hamilton Model 21 chronometer. Cleaning Solution?   
    I would like to see some phots first of the movement including the balance before I comment further. There is a screw called a “stop-up” screw, which was built into the model 21 chronometer by Hamilton. This screw was used to block the train wheels for transport. This screw was often removed during service. Does yours still have it?
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