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roverguybm

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  1. I've had/have one or two Rotary watches (with Hattori movements) that only allow you to see the push position through the hole when the stem is in the optimal position for removal...0/I/II, etc...very clever idea.
  2. I'm with noirrac1j...if you can source a replacement movement I'd swap over. However, some quartz movements require a 're-boot' after a battery replacement...there is usually something inside the case, such as a sticker over the battery, instructing you to 'short' the '+' and 'A' say, and this restarts the movement...anything there?
  3. Hello again bsoderling... The reason for the questions - I was just trying to save you adjusting the hairspring and roller jewel position if possible ... New spring question - just thinking that maybe the new spring was the wrong thickness, and as this is a cylinder escapement with no pallet fork helping to regulate impulse to the balance staff there maybe a little more direct power going through the train than previously, resulting in it running fast. Since it's an exact, although modern, replacement though, it probably isn't that. What would be great to know is what position the regulator/index was in when you first received the watch...was it in the centre, towards the fast or slow?...if in the centre then this would suggests it was keeping good time prior to the mainspring breaking...although not definitive proof. The twelve o'clock position questions...a pocket watch is ideally intended to spend most of it's 'time' hung from it's pendent...so timing it laying on it's back for example may not be the correct position to judge it's accuracy... I like phone apps for measuring accuracy of watches, I have a few on my own phone...but ideally for me accuracy would be best measured over the full 24 hours to allow for the mainspring to run through a cycle (some say you need at least a month to check accuracy!)...but two minutes out...nah, not that... ...10mm of unused hairspring...that seems a lot of spare to me...and as you have written, and szbalogh confirms, 'winding' this extra length back into the available, active length of adjustable hairspring may get things back to acceptable functionality...but then you have a wee bit of delicate work getting everything lined up and in beat again... I'm also assuming the watch isn't magnetised...doesn't look as if there is any binding coils within the hairspring from the image, but I'd still try demagnetising anyway so that it's ticked off the check list...and sometimes there's a little spare oil that's found it's way onto the hairsprings that can only be seen using a loupe...this can cause things to go fast... ...and please upload some more images...can't get enough of images of pocket watches!!!
  4. Hello bsoderling! Couple of questions? Is it two minutes fast per day in the 12 o' clock up position (assuming this is 'top-up' for this particular pocket watch)? When you replaced the mainspring did you use an exact replacement for this calibre of pocket watch? How old is the watch...looks like the 1920's from the image but if older then sometimes 2 minutes per day is actually pretty good?
  5. I'm with you...a Venus 75 with a customised ebauches...nice catch!
  6. Hello oldhipply...happy to contribute if I can. For those unfamiliar with a cylinder escapement there is no pallet fork controlling the interface between the balance and the escape wheel...the escape wheel meshes directly with (if that is the correct term) or passes through, the balance wheel staff by means of an undercut hollow slot formed in the staff itself. This configuration is a form of 'dead beat' escapement known as a 'frictional rest'...as I understand it there is always a tooth in contact with the staff at any and all times. The problem I had was - as there is always a tooth in contact with the staff, I had to marry up the position of the tooth with the correct position it should be at during its cycle as it passes through the lips of the hollow - if not correctly aligned then the balance wont be able to transfer an impulse to the next tooth as it isn't releasing the tooth it's currently in contact with. An added problem is that since there isn't a pallet fork there is nothing to hold the normal turn and a half of the button to charge up the main spring to set the escapement on it's merry way - all power escapes immediately without the staff/cylinder in place. The solution was found in Fletcher: Watch Repairing as a Hobby: p57 of the 2012 edition...and was actually pretty simple once explained (thank goodness). I had to look for a marked slot on the rim of the balance, and then line this up with the middle dot of three set in the pillar plate. By good fortune all marks were present, and, as I was working on a movement that I knew had a perfect balance set up before I removed the cock, as soon as I set everything up and provided a half turn of power...off went the balance...! Learned something new...but if there is another way I'd appreciate the knowledge, as this movement is one of a job-lot of nine I've just picked up on ebay and the marks may not be present on those. Here's an image of the movement (sorry about the quality...using an old camera in poor light).
  7. Folks. I removed a free moving cylinder escapement/balance cock to work on a dial for safety. After finishing what I was doing I attempted to refit the cock - after two hours, no joy. Is there a particular set up between the escape wheel and the balance staff void lips that has to be employed? I started by simply ensuring the lower staff jewel was fully visible between two of the arboured teeth and reinserted the staff, hoping it would take care of its self, but the staff and teeth seem locked/meshed with no commencement of impulse no matter what I do. Do I need to set it at tooth 'rest on outside', 'rest on inside' etc, before release? I know refitting any balance can be an adventure, but I just can't see what is wrong with the set up. Can't really get a camera in to show the issue... Any and all advice would be most welcome.
  8. Movement out...pesky little blighters were indeed washer heads...clockwise into the movement plate, turn movement and remove...many thanks gents for all of your help... All I need to do now is strip down a 251/262 with its 15 wheels, four motors, six............................
  9. Hmm...stating to think this is indeed a washer head screw...tried anticlockwise and my Bergeon 0.5 and 0.8 are ripped without moving a micro... Not to worry...I'll sharpen them up and try again clockwise...thanks for your help and advice so far guys... Cheers
  10. Thanks oldhippy...wont that just raise the head of the screw though and bring it into firmer contact with the lip? If I screw clockwise it'll drive the screw down and away from the lip...I turn the movement to the opening...and remove it...and then turn anticlockwise to remove the screws from the movement? Here's another close up image... And once again thanks for the reply!
  11. Old Hippy and rogart63...thank you kindly for taking the time to answer my question. I should of course have included an image with the first post. Here is the issue as best as I can capture. The washer is tucked below the lipping...there is an opening in the lip next to the screws...it looks like you loosen the washer and turn the movement to fit the washer/screw through the gap to remove from the rear... As Old Hippy suggests my head says anticlockwise...but my intuition suggests I have to screw into the plate to release the washer from the lip. The screws have never been removed before and I'm a little worried that I could de-head them if I guess wrong by applying too much force leaving the washer still in place. At the end of the day I have a new movement on the way anyway, so don't mind slight damage to the existing faulty one, but I'd like to keep the screws rather than having to track down replacements...any thoughts having seen the image? Thanks in advance!
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