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Tmuir last won the day on April 10

Tmuir had the most liked content!

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About Tmuir

  • Rank
    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 01/05/1973

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Perth Western Australia
  • Interests
    Clocks & watches, vintage British motorcycles, toys and model steam engines....

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  1. The name of the part and what it looks like are more important as those part numbers are only relevant for Swiss Ebauches movments. If you work on Seikos for example those numbers don't mean anything. Most modern watches you can download technical sheets on that will give you the part numbers.
  2. Welcome from Perth Western Australia. I'm looking forward to your posts on polishing and finishing.
  3. I stand corrected on the date, it probably is correct, I have references of a Thomas Speakman, London making clocks from 1685 dying in 1714. If it has been restored why does the movement door look like the hinge on the bottom is damaged?
  4. Its a 30 hour English Longcase. I don't think its as old as 1700, but I will leave that to the experts. It won't be a chiming clock, but will be a striking clock, that is it will count out the hour on the hour, most likely by striking a bell. Every day you need to pull the weight back up. I'll look at my books and see if I can get an approximate date based on the hands. If the clock has been professionally serviced and needs no work the starting bid is already at the top end of its value in my opinion, if its not been serviced correctly and needs work its value is much lower. They have not posted any photos of the movement which you really need to see, but the rope and lead donut do look new, so it probably has been recently serviced.
  5. Nice, your not going to get any better than that.
  6. Thats an interesting little clock, let us all know how you get on with it.
  7. Thanks, I was thinking around 100mm, but its always good to get confirmation. A silicon mould would concern me to use as its max temp is only 30C above the max use temp of tin, but I guess if you are careful it could be ok.
  8. Thanks, I plan on buying pure tin from a foundry in Queensland that sells it in small amounts to hobbyists for reasonable prices so don't need to worry about the purity. With Zinc I would of had to gone done the path of green sand casting, but with tin I should be able to just get away making the mould with just getting some hardwood and using a hole saw drill a hole through the wood and clamp it onto another bit of wood. Yes the wood will likely smoulder a bit, but that doesn't matter for a one off use mould. What diameter are your plates?
  9. I'm looking at having a go of the dark art of black polishing, in particular I want to learn it for restoring old pocket watches for parts that have suffered minor surface damage. I'm going to cast and then machine my own polishing plate. All the books talk about using Zinc for steel parts and I have read tin for gold parts, but online have read about a few people using a tin plate for steel parts. Tin will be easier to cast than zinc, but I should still be able to manage to cast zinc, but just want to know if anyone here has tried black polishing and if so have they used a tin plate, or should I go the extra effort and cast a zinc plate?
  10. Back in the early 2000's I took a job with the WAGR (Western Australian Government Railways), between my interview and me starting work it had a name change to the Public Transport Authority, which saw it take in public buses and school buses too. I only worked there for 3 years in the telecommunications section, but I still have a soft spot for the railways and over the years have collected a few WAGR artifacts, but a WAGR fusee clock or pocketwatch which is what I really want I don't have yet. I just stumbled across 2 watches said to be WAGR watches from the late 60s and 70s. If these are indeep genuine WAGR watches from the late 60s and 70s its clear they were not worried about railway standard. The second watch can be no earlier than 1976, but if these are genuine the quality of the engraving is just terrible being the railway workshop was still in operation and had atleast 2000 qualified tradesman employed and I'm sure atleast 1 of them could of done a better job than this to engrave the watches. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WAGR-RAILWAY-WATCH-c1967/264285680979?hash=item3d88a77553:g:UwgAAOSw5iVctZSw&frcectupt=true https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WAGR-RAILWAY-WATCH-c1970/264285623691?hash=item3d88a6958b:g:cEgAAOSwG89ctYPz&frcectupt=true If these are indeed genuine 1960s and 1970s WAGR watches I can live without adding them to my collection
  11. I'm just wondering how many people here are a member of any association? There are still quite a lot of Associations / Clubs / Guild / Institutes around the world and I'm just interested how many people here are members of one, either because you are training through them, or joined just to find like minded people. I'm a member of the 'Master Clock and Watch Makers of Western Australian Inc' which is a not for profit organisation for promoting Horology and also runs the school I have been studying at for the past 3 and a bit years. I just recently graduated from my course so have paid the difference and I moved up from an associate to a full member which will allow me to be more active within the association. I'm sure we must have atleast a few members of BHI here, but what other organisation are people members of, or are thinking about joining. Just interested to know.
  12. Thanks for the German translation. I do sometimes search ebay Germany but have been relying on Google translate and only getting mixed results. At least in Perth Western Australia watchmakers tools at auction houses are pretty rare as I guess there just aren't as many for sale in Australia. You can see the same on Ebay Australia, you do a search using the word 'watchmaker' and set it for used items on in Australia and it gets 54 hits today, same search on Ebay UK gets 364 hits.
  13. If he can measure it I would like to know how, as I doubt I could.
  14. SIgn up to Cousins UK and go look for watch parts and then case parts and enter your calibre and case number which will be on the back of the case. if you are lucky Cousins will have in stock the correct crystal, or an OEM crystal for the watch, but as Seiko does produce a lot of models of watches its quite common for the crystal to be obsolete and out of stock, but Cousins may still list the part number which you can search for it on ebay. This is for the acrylic crystals, if its just a flat mineral glass you just need to rmeove it and measure diameter and thickness with a vernier and buy a replacement one, but measure very carefully as the glasses go up in 0.1mm steps. You may also need to buy a new gasket for the glass too. As they others say other than a gentle dusting don't touch the dial. If you are very careful you can try a microfibre Q-tip just damp with distilled water on stains, but be careful as it can remove the markers and writing.
  15. Those are great photos, thanks for posting them as I would of also wondered if that wear is acceptable or not
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