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mistergrumpy

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  1. Just for closure I got one from Spain and it is thicker which allows space for the counterweight to move. Thanks for the help given.
  2. I wonder if it's had a replacement Malaysian crystal that's had the numbers printed on a bit off square. Does anyone have a case back from a 7009-3160 that they would be able to measure the thickness of please? I'm looking an Ebay but I'm not seeing any empty cases.
  3. I did wonder why the numbers were a bit skewed but Google results like this got me wondering. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=7009-3160&dcr=0&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiMvazFi4DXAhXEtBoKHQrfBuwQ_AUICygC&biw=1366&bih=588#imgrc=dvrtEnskR-qmJM:
  4. Thanks all for the suggestions. I managed to sort the issue. I used lead free solder and a 30W soldering iron and between the 2 of them it fixed it. I think that maybe because the dial is matt black and painted it was less risky than enamel maybe.
  5. Can anyone identify this watch? My partner got it for me in September as I normally repair pocket watches but this was something different for me. It was cheap, in pieces and in a bad way but I've got it working now albeit without the case back on. The problem I have is that the caseback fouls the counterweight when it's screwed on and right at soon as the thread catches and it stops it swinging. The caseback itself has 7009-3171 printed on it and the movement is a 7009A but from Googling it would seem the watch is a 7009-3160 and my thought is that maybe this model has a slightly deeper caseback. Can anyone help?
  6. Good point regards the brass being a heatsink. I never thought about that. I'll have a look into solder with flux in it. Thanks for the advice.
  7. Can anyone advise? I got given a cheap ebay Seiko 7009a for my birthday a while back to play with. Not in the best of conditions but I usually stick to pocket watches so this was something to play along with. I've got it running again after changing the balance and cleaning out the lower pivot jewel and am now looking at the dial. It has no dial feet but I can see where they were originally on the back. They're right near the edge and on the dial side, the chapter ring covers the edge so any heat damage would be covered. I saw one of Balogh's video's and thought I'd may as well have a try. The dial is brass so I cleaned up around the original foot position with a file. I have some 0.6 mm copper wire and was using electrical flux and solder but I can't get the two to stick together. Can anyone suggest anything? Different flux or solder maybe?
  8. Couldn't find any markings on it other than Swiss made. I tried a single strand of electrical wire but that was too big but I got there in the end by removing jewels and some other bits as prompted by szbalogh so thanks. It's only a 7 jewel watch movement but it looks nice and was bought as a gift to keep me busy.
  9. Good call. Need to find some ultra thin wire though. I'd rather not be wedging the balance cock to suit the staff though. It's a bit too much of a bodge for me. (Nice home made lathe BTW. Been looking at your Youtube page)
  10. I have a Rone pocket watch balance with both pivots broken off the staff which currently measures 5.8mm. Looking at the jewels either side they're both recessed into the metalwork on both sides also which I'm going to have to look at but I'm trying to determine how much to add on for the pivot lengths. What figure would be realistic? 0.2mm each? It's quite easy for me to guess but with these very small measurements it's difficult for me to grasp it well enough, whereas with an inch or a cm it's easy.
  11. Hmm. I hope that last post didn't come across as me being funny? It seems to read a bit like that but it's not meant to be. Sorry and thanks again.
  12. Yes. I get the idea of the forum, I've been lurking for a few years. I realise I've not many posts but I find it's sometimes better to read (or watch youtube!) and learn than asking what could be considered the usual newbie questions. That's the main reason I asked the question, I didn't want to just post, I'd rather ask in this instance. It's just that I tend to stick to pocket watch movements and I never buy them working, I prefer the problem solving and I love the damaskeening on the American Walthams and Elgins. This in itself is okay as some parts like balance staffs are fairly common on Ebay as oppose to trying to get some Thomas Russel or Lancashire Watch Co. parts, however, for example, trying to get hold of something like a mainspring barrel for a Waltham is proving difficult. I've asked on NAWWC and the Americans seem reluctant to post and I don't like buying watches for scrap as I end up trying to fix them too and I've got about 20 awaiting repairs at the minute. The Walthams and American stuff on UK Ebay is usually overpriced too I find and there's not many basket cases around. Thanks for the replies.
  13. I note that we're not allowed to post sales ads on the forum which is accepted and understood but are we allowed to post wanted/hard to find parts threads at all. For example I'm struggling to find a mainspring barrel and/or a 16s hairspring without having to buy a watch for parts and because they're American (Waltham/Elgin) they seem to cost more over here than over there.
  14. Thanks again. I'm on it. I'm not allowed to buy myself anything at the minute because it's my birthday on Sunday so everything's a gift idea for someone (and I'm skint!)
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