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About mistergrumpy

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  1. To add some clsure to this in case it's viewed down the line. I contacted Seiko and they confirmed that I had the correct parts, being stem 354805 and crown 55M22NS1 and therefore the fault must lie in the quality of the parts if they are none genuine especially as they are obsolete.
  2. So, as the crown didn't cost much I've just ran a 0.9mm drill into it then the stem and it's worked a treat. I've been able to try the watch now and it's great to hear that alarm for the first time. I'm still curious as to the correct part number but for now I'm smiling.
  3. Yeah that's how I'm sure I have the correct stem but suspect crown.
  4. No I definitely haven't been sold an alarm bell button, they look different What's your model number? I'm going to try and get a new battery for my vernier calipers before work today. Reading them manually my stem is 1.0mm which seems right, it's more the crown.
  5. The stem doesn't fit the crown. It's diameter is slightly bigger. The stem, however, does fit the movement and the crown fits the case. Both are the correct ones as suggested by Cousins it's just that they don't fit each other. As mentioned above I was sold an 55W06NS on Ebay but that butts up to the crown tube because they're the same diameter. It did however fit the stem.
  6. True though I reckoned on the correct crown costing just as much as the taps plus I'm curious to know which is the right one. I bought one with a stem off Ebay recently that didn't fit but was advertised as fitting 4006 prefix's. When I tried to return it I got a bit of abuse and an insistence that it was the correct part despite it not fitting the case and then I got blocked from buying anything else! I need to know thr correct crown, it obviously exists.
  7. Thanks for the reply. It's hard to establish what's the crown on that schedule however it appears that this problems been raised on here before after a bit of late night Googling with a member named Vic(?) but it was never updated with a final result. It seems there's a thread difference, somewhere between a 9 and a 10 tap but it wasn't established what went wrong and where. Cousins enquired with Seiko regards the correct part numbers and were passed the numbers as above so I'm wondering if perhaps they're supplying none genuine crowns with a different thread maybe. I don't know whether it's worth trying to locate a genuine one just to try the stem in. I'm already 2 crowns and 3 stems in and would like to avoid the hit and miss scenario.
  8. Can anyone offer any advice in terms of part numbers? I've acquired a Seiko 4006 6031 minus a stem and crown. Cousins list the part numbers as 354805 and 55M22NS1respectively but on buying both (crown from Cousins, stem from obsolete parts as Cousins don't stock) then I find they don't fit together seemingly having different threads. They each fit the movement and case but not each other. I'm lost. I can't find any other part numbers. There is another crown for the 4006 but I tried that and it doesn't fit the case tube being too big. Anyone have any ideas?
  9. Just for closure I got one from Spain and it is thicker which allows space for the counterweight to move. Thanks for the help given.
  10. I wonder if it's had a replacement Malaysian crystal that's had the numbers printed on a bit off square. Does anyone have a case back from a 7009-3160 that they would be able to measure the thickness of please? I'm looking an Ebay but I'm not seeing any empty cases.
  11. I did wonder why the numbers were a bit skewed but Google results like this got me wondering. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=7009-3160&dcr=0&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiMvazFi4DXAhXEtBoKHQrfBuwQ_AUICygC&biw=1366&bih=588#imgrc=dvrtEnskR-qmJM:
  12. Thanks all for the suggestions. I managed to sort the issue. I used lead free solder and a 30W soldering iron and between the 2 of them it fixed it. I think that maybe because the dial is matt black and painted it was less risky than enamel maybe.
  13. Can anyone identify this watch? My partner got it for me in September as I normally repair pocket watches but this was something different for me. It was cheap, in pieces and in a bad way but I've got it working now albeit without the case back on. The problem I have is that the caseback fouls the counterweight when it's screwed on and right at soon as the thread catches and it stops it swinging. The caseback itself has 7009-3171 printed on it and the movement is a 7009A but from Googling it would seem the watch is a 7009-3160 and my thought is that maybe this model has a slightly deeper caseback. Can anyone help?
  14. Good point regards the brass being a heatsink. I never thought about that. I'll have a look into solder with flux in it. Thanks for the advice.
  15. Can anyone advise? I got given a cheap ebay Seiko 7009a for my birthday a while back to play with. Not in the best of conditions but I usually stick to pocket watches so this was something to play along with. I've got it running again after changing the balance and cleaning out the lower pivot jewel and am now looking at the dial. It has no dial feet but I can see where they were originally on the back. They're right near the edge and on the dial side, the chapter ring covers the edge so any heat damage would be covered. I saw one of Balogh's video's and thought I'd may as well have a try. The dial is brass so I cleaned up around the original foot position with a file. I have some 0.6 mm copper wire and was using electrical flux and solder but I can't get the two to stick together. Can anyone suggest anything? Different flux or solder maybe?
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