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About SudoHalt

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    Hong Kong; Saudi Arabia
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    Sleeping, watch collecting, chess, computers.

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  1. I just remembered something! In some activity at the university, one guy taught me I can bond two pieces of steel together by filing their surfaces, soldering them together with the aid of solder paste. Then I will have to find a way to drill out that lead fill. I might think of that as a last, last resort! On the other hand, baton hands aren't too bad really! Thanks!
  2. The hammer and anvil sounds crazy, but I can see myself trying that! Maybe the needles from the sewing kit will help me in "undoing" a very small hole size. The hole closing punching tool is an amazing idea, didn't even know it existed. Too bad it's way out of my budget. Do you know of any place which would sell such tools independently? I mean, if I wanted just the appropriate size of the minute hand hole instead of a whole set of hole closing tools. Out of curiosity, is there a difference between measuring the pinion sizes and checking them up in the technical documentation? The movement is a Ronda 513/515, and according to the Datasheet, it got 120/70/20 sized hands. I am not really interested in replacing the hands, unless I can find something that looks fairly similar. Where could I find such replacements? The ones on Esslinger are a little bit far off from what I would like.
  3. Hey there, I bought a Mondaine railways watch a few years back, but unfortunately it came with this factory defect in which the minute and hour hands have holes that are slightly oversized. Compared to the features of the minute hand and its pinion, for the hour hand and its pinion hour pinion is larger, hour hand is short The "protrusion" of the hand hole hole being longer. What I am trying to imply is that the hour hand will not fall out of place due to impacts. On the other hand, for the minute hand: the hand is heavier the hand got a larger moment about the pinion The pinion shaft is tiny And the protrusion from the hole of the minute hand is tiny On top of all of that, the hole is slightly oversized. Any impact, even if you bang it on a desk accidentally, pushes the minute hand out of place, and it freely floats between the second and the hour hand. I humbly reassembled the minute hand 3 years ago, only for it to come off at the next bang on the desk, which you could imagine as a daily ritual. Fast forward to all the mess that happened with the watch (crystal broke, damaged movement, etc), I replaced the movement and got to the reassembly job. I tried to tighten the hole of the minute hand by pushing the small protrusion from the hole inwards. This strategy worked pretty well for the hour hand. But for the minute hand it is just tiny. Then I got a wonderful idea. Glue? How about I go suicidal and I glue the hands to the pinion? I used GS Crystal Cement. Hour hand was a piece of cake. Minute hand was a disaster for this job. There simply isn't much area for the glue to bind the hand on the pinion. I gave the watch a knock on my knee and the minute hand was off again. In the 8 hours that followed, I kept trying gluing again, but to no avail. Then I moved to Super Glue. I almost damaged the replacement movement, and there really wasn't enough area to safely bind the hand on the pinion. At that point, I realized I was being insane. Or Glue two hands together? I then attempted to glue the "minute hand" that came with the replacement movement, to the underside of the original minute hand. I then attempted to attach the assembly to the minute pinion. The hand was just too heavy and the assembly got knocked off right after the first impact. On top of that, it blocked the second hand from being assembled in the first place. The Sewing kit At that point, 12 hours from the start, I got small sprinkles of superglue scattered over the dial, and I couldn't care less about how the outcome looks like. I just wanted it to work. I remembered there is this fiber-like thing that is used to seal pipes to prevent leakage. So how about I use a string to tighten the hole of the minute hand? I took a black-colored string from the sewing kit. It was made of two strings twisted together. I split the string into its two individual ones. I took one of them and I passed it through the minute hand hole, and I fastened it. I made sure both free ends are protruding from the side of the hand. I used GS Crystal cement to make sure the free ends stay in that position and don't interfere with the other hands. I then cut the overhanging parts, leaving a protrusion of a string from the side by something slightly above 1mm. Surprisingly, this worked. The hand visibly swings up and down by over a milimeter in each direction, but it hasn't been knocked out of place yet. I have bent the hands in a bizarre way such that the minute hand doesn't stick to the indices or either hand. In theory, the swinging makes a lot of sense as to why it exists. But also in my theory, the hand wouldn't fall off again. I believe this theory is flawed and the hand could fall off again. What else can I attempt in case the minute hand decides to fall off again? Or if I can go back in time, what is the right way to do it?
  4. I seemed to like how light goes through the acrylic on my roommates watch. I have a watch that would look very interesting with acrylic too. Mineral doesn't do it justice. The thing is, when I safely removed the crystal and its gasket, there is really no flat area where I can apply the glue on. The big flat area that you see is for the chapter ring, and not for the crystal. I suppose a tension ring crystal might work in this case, but no place in my area has them. I cannot justify paying 25usd shipping for a 10usd crystal either. Am I out of luck for doing it on this watch? What about acrylic crystals with straight walls?
  5. Sounds good! This will go well with the Mondaine! In case of something like the above Casio though, I suppose the buttons got gaskets to maintain some degree of water resistance. Would that affect them?
  6. After assessing my options, I decided with gluing acrylic rather than a "pressable" one with a tension ring. There's no local shop around me that offers acrylic with tension ring, let alone the correct dimensions. I had to sand down the acrylic crystals I got to make them the right size. I used GS crystal cement to get things going, and so far so good. It's also by far the cheapest option as I barely needed any tools for the job. The only thing I still find ambiguous is, how tough is it to remove the crystal in case I want to replace it in the future? And how hard is it going to be to clean up after the glued crystal is removed? I just applied the acrylic treatment to my roommate's watch. He coincidentally broke his mineral glass when I started this thread a while ago. Thanks a lot for the advice given.
  7. After going through the wheels in the barrel bridge, I figured out what was the culprit in making the watch stop in some different orientations when the hairspring was still in pristine condition. The wheel which moves the minute hand (maybe) turned out to have a broken pivot. When in the right orientation, it doesn't jam and engages with the center wheel. In the right orientation, it still has enough torque to drive the faster center wheel, but not as much as an intact wheel. I therefore believe the broken pivot is what made made it go at a much lower amplitude. Interestingly, the barrel wheel kept that broken wheel loosely pushed against the top jewel, which is why the wheel was never completely knocked outside its place and could still be put back in place by placing the watch in another orientation. I might have done very stupid things to the mainspring, but I am happy that I am learning quite a bit on other things too. It's pleasantly intriguing. Do you think there is anything I got wrong? I have attached the pictures of the broken pivot in jewel on the mainplate, and that of the wheel. Sorry if the mainplate is too painful to look at. xD That pivot was absolutely minuscule! I really think I need to get some amateur loupe.
  8. You actually are right, I just found a picture before I touched anything and the hairspring looked decent. It was not an ingenious idea to practice using tweezers on the balance bridge, but I am glad I could handle it better by the end. Nonetheless, it was intended as a practice watch anyway. That hairspring looks to be beyond repair now. Having now seen the original state of the hairspring, I am actually confused. The watch was running flawlessly for over a year but then one day it died on me. What could have caused this? The thing is it appears to me that the pallet fork moves pretty freely. @Nucejoe I guess the second picture is what you'd be looking for. I kinda feel ashamed to be here.
  9. Am I understanding that it is possible to deform the hairspring like this without breaking the pivots of the balance wheel?
  10. Got it! I am pretty sure my handling was a major contributor to this. But as I said earlier, the watch had an issue (likely with the hairspring) even before any handling. Could the hairspring really go bust even when the movement is cased? Something doesn't add up to me.
  11. Hey there, I have had a watch with the Chinese Standard Movement suddenly die on me over a year ago. The issue is, the watch abruptly dies in certain orientations, even with a full power reserve. I decided to open it up today and try to figure out what's going on. Since I don't really care about that watch, the outcome doesn't matter to me, it would be interesting to "diagnose" the problem as a starter. Prior to today, the watch was never disassembled once and the watch has has never been through any unusual beating. While my methods of disassembly and handling might be a problem on their own, the watch had a problem to start with. I have tried removing the balance bridge and putting it back into place, but to no avail. Interestingly, halfway through a very gentle unscrewing of the balance bridge screw, the head broke off from the threaded part. I have dealt with smaller screws in the past, but never this problem. In one of my attempts to put the balance bridge back into place, I got it to seemingly work, but the amplitude was visibly terrible. In another attempt, I tried my best to center the balance wheel, but if I screw the balance bridge completely, it stops. The end shake seems to be reasonable, though. The rest of the watch seems to be in a pretty workable condition. This makes me feel it's an issue with the hairspring. The tiny pivots of the balance wheel appear pretty well intact. One thing, I did notice though, is that the spring is somewhat distorted such that the balance wheel is off center. Attached is a video to show the issue. This is just after I removed the caseback. All components untouched otherwise. The pictures are taken after the handling and everything. May I know what do you think of it? The Problem in Video.mp4
  12. Thanks guys! For now that sounds good to me. I will post back here if I have any questions or trouble. I am considering Acrylic crystals because they are more shatter resistant than both mineral crystals and Sapphire. Yes, acrylic crystals are brittle, so when you drop them they could develop a crack, but Acrylic crystals don't shatter and fall apart when they crack. It is nowhere as hazardous when cracks happen as fragments will not fly around when a crack happens, and they can maintain a slight degree of splash resistance.
  13. I have actually went over that guide. However I am still confused about the sizing choice of acrylic crystal if the watch was designed originally to go with Mineral Crystal. What I am trying to say is... which one of these is true? I can fit the acrylic crystal into the case using the gasket that came with the original mineral crystal. Could the crystal gasket break or wear out during the assembly of the acrylic? I need to remove the original gasket and fit the acrylic crystal without a gasket. I have heard that Acrylic crystals could provide decent waterproofing without a crystal gasket.
  14. Wow thanks a lot! I got a bunch of homework to do on this... based on what I am understanding, the Acrylic crystals with tension rings could be press-fitted with the crystal press given that we use the correct size of dies, and those crystals would do fine without that plastic gasket, isn't it? What I am confused about is the plastic gasket that was used to friction-fit the mineral crystal in place. Do I remove it before fitting the acrylic crystal? If yes, then I believe that I have to measure the new diameter of the "dial compartment".
  15. Hey there, I accidentally cracked the crystal on my Mondaine watch, and I would like to replace the original mineral crystal with Acrylic. The Original crystal is friction fitted into a plastic gasket. On my vernier calipers, the Original crystal measured at 38.2mm. I have a simple Crystal/Back Cover Press to insert a new crystal, but I assume this approach would be best for replacing with Mineral or Sapphire. Can I use a Crystal Press to friction fit acrylic crystals? Is there a difference in the approach when the new acrylic crystal is flat, low-domed, or high-domed? I am somewhat confused as to the size of the replacement Acrylic Crystal... Do I go with the same size? If not, how much larger? Thanks!
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