Jump to content

RyMoeller

Member
  • Content Count

    486
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    RyMoeller got a reaction from Stevelp in MEMO WATCH?   
    Looks like a Venus 150 or 175 movement.  Good chronograph.
  2. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to Mark in Update about WRT - Website Images & Other stuff   
    You may have noticed a few changes - I have removed the Gallery section and the CMS pages app from the site as it costs too much to 'rent' those modules with comparatively very little use by members - it just did not make sense to keep them going. I apologise if this inconveniences or annoys anybody but I think it is better to keep the core of this website to be a discussion forum.
    The WRT website is costing me a lot of money per month to run and I am making a few changes to help with that - there is a little income from eBay affiliate ads but not enough to cover the cost of hosting and some help from Patrons and for this we are very grateful. The site has over 30GB in uploaded media now!!! And the notification emails generated is quite high too - I have to use a separate company to handle this so that the site doesn't get email black-listed. One of these services suddenly and without notice stopped our service a few months ago and it was a few days before anybody even noticed (password reset emails were no longer working). I did manage to find a new email provider and things have been running smoothly ever since.
    Getting back to the uploaded media, as mentioned it's over 30GB and this covers images in topics going back several years. I do back this up every night and I backup the site database every hour in order to protect the content should we ever have a disaster I have a Synology NAS here in the office which has a full backup on and I also keep a backup offsite on a cloud service. 
    I have also decided to use Amazon Cloudfront to host all the uploaded media. I am in the process of migrating this content over and you may notice broken images for a very short period during the migration. But ultimately this will maintain and even improve performance of the site.
    Anyway, all being said, this is a fantastic community and I am fully committed to continuing with it's administration, keeping our little corner of the net alive
    - Just a little update to let you know what's happening - 
  3. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to jdm in Easy out for watch screws?   
    What is to add, is that the water should be hot, at least initially. That accelerates the action of the solution.
  4. Like
    RyMoeller got a reaction from dadistic in Is it salvageable?   
    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project.  The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As  you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded.

    The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty.  The replacement is pictured below.

    I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting  lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch.  I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement.
    I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the  Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing.  If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it.


    I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement.  The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw.  I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed.

    I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening.
    I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial.
    The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through.
    By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look.  They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice.

    A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job.

    So far, so good.  The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be.
    I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost.  Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  5. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to JerseyMo in IWC Cal 83 - Case Wanted   
    I'm looking to aquire an original IWC case to match with this fantastic watch I have in my collection.  Can anyone lend some advice other thatn search EBay?   Or should I just leave this one as is?
    BTW, I bought this watch for $10.00   Well it was missing the case, the stem was broken and rusted in the movement, the staff was broken.  So I think it was a great deal in the end...
     
     
     



  6. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to jdm in Dubois-Depraz Module   
    Neither Dubois Depraz or any watch manufacturer that uses his modules do sell parts to anyone. 
    So either you fabricate or adapt one, or buy another module in whatever conditions to get it. 
    The last alternative is to send the watch to an official service center where after a comprehensive estimate they will replace the entire module as per standard practice..
  7. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to WatchMaker in Another lubrication doubt   
    Interesting question @jdm! I also use Synt HP-1300 (9104) oil for the arbor and for general metal-on-metal applications. This is as per recommendations and since it is often mentioned that synthetic 9104 supercedes mineral oil based D-5 and thus, by implication, is superior. 
    I've gone onto the Moebius site and compiled the radar charts for key attributes as below. Comparing an oil product with a grease product isn't quite apples-for-apples as the criteria on the charts changes but, if for the sake of this question, we take pressure resistance, wear resistance and friction reduction as the key comparators then the charts are useful.
    What stands out for me here is that I wouldn't be recommending 8301! However D-5 matches 9104 for pressure resistance and friction reduction and trumps it for wear resistance! We need to take into account though that, as a synthetic product, 9104 has better ageing qualities than D-5 and remains in situ slightly better. 
    The wild card is that fancy 9504 you've found. Why does Moebius recommend 9104 for barrel arbors but doesn't even mention it in the context of 9504? I reckon it could be the viscosity. I always associate a grease having a greater viscosity than an oil but that doesn't seem to be the case - perhaps adding to lubrication confusions! Moebius measure the viscosity in centistokes (cSt) with, at 20 degrees centigrade, D-5 = 1200 and 9104 = 1250 [just for comparison 9010 = 150). 9504 comes in at a pretty fluid 305 although it's in the grease category.
    So for me it's still a D-5 vs 9104 situation in a metal-on-metal situation like the arbor hole. Watch serviced regularly? D-5 in theory trumps 9104 for its greater wear resistance (and could thus avoid the situations that @RyMoeller has observed on Seikos) but a more normal situation for most watch owners is to only think about servicing when a watch stops running! Whilst 9104 might not have quite the wear resistance capabilities it doesn't degrade or move so is actually likely to be superior in a lot of cases.
     
     
     

  8. Like
    RyMoeller got a reaction from jdrichard in Another lubrication doubt   
    Looking at my Moebius Sales Brochure (which appears to date to the mid 70's) 8300 and 8301 have good adherence but poor response to pressure which I imagine means it would be pushed out of the bearing by torque on the arbor.  My (certainly outdated) Moebius document suggests 8030 or 8040 as thick oils for arbors.  Might work...
    D5 is typically what I use unless the technical sheet specifically states otherwise, my understanding is that HP1300 is essentially the synthetic replacement of D5.
    I don't work on Seikos too often but have viewed almost all of Spencer Klein's videos on them and have noticed worn arbor bearings seem to be a very common problem.  Considering that, I'd say the thicker the oil the better.
  9. Thanks
    RyMoeller got a reaction from jdm in Another lubrication doubt   
    Looking at my Moebius Sales Brochure (which appears to date to the mid 70's) 8300 and 8301 have good adherence but poor response to pressure which I imagine means it would be pushed out of the bearing by torque on the arbor.  My (certainly outdated) Moebius document suggests 8030 or 8040 as thick oils for arbors.  Might work...
    D5 is typically what I use unless the technical sheet specifically states otherwise, my understanding is that HP1300 is essentially the synthetic replacement of D5.
    I don't work on Seikos too often but have viewed almost all of Spencer Klein's videos on them and have noticed worn arbor bearings seem to be a very common problem.  Considering that, I'd say the thicker the oil the better.
  10. Like
    RyMoeller got a reaction from watchweasol in WatchCraft 1/10HP Lathe Motor Assistance   
    It's fixed.  A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business.  Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now. 
  11. Like
    RyMoeller got a reaction from vinn3 in WatchCraft 1/10HP Lathe Motor Assistance   
    It's fixed.  A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business.  Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now. 
  12. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to Dpastl in Dorsa with Lorsa 237   
    I'm really excited about this project.  I bought this watch because it looked interesting, not sure if it was repairable.  Thankfully the movement was in good shape, despite missing a couple parts.  I removed the last of the "gold" plating, polished the case, polished the crystal.  I figured out how to Nickel plate the case (which turned out okay) from some sources online.  Super happy with how it turned out!
    Before:


     
    After:

  13. Like
    RyMoeller got a reaction from measuretwice in WatchCraft 1/10HP Lathe Motor Assistance   
    It's fixed.  A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business.  Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now. 
  14. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to jackie01 in Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider"   
    Hello,
    I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy (  +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required. 















     
     
     
  15. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to oldhippy in Cleaning balance complete   
    I never cleaned the balance in the cleaning machine. Always cleaned it in Ronsonol lighter fluid. One Dip is not needed. The lighter fluid is way better and it won't harm pallets or impulse pins that are held with shellac. 
  16. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to jdm in Question escapement teeth/ pallet fine oil   
    A finer oil would not stay in place due to the centrifugal and highly inertial motion of the escape wheel. I think 9010 was recommended before the introduction of better products in terms of adhesion, 941 and 9415, which in fact is a grease. If you want to try the latter send me a PM with your address. 
  17. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to oldhippy in Polishing screw heads with diamond paste   
    This is how I went about polishing clock screw heads. You need a lathe or a screw head-polishing tool that fits in a vice. Start by removing the bur with a flat needle file not to course. Then use emery sticks of various grades down to the finest they have, finish off with the finest crocus paper. Clean the screws. Those screws would be ready to blue. That is how good they will be.   
  18. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to SiZi in My first! Omega 565 cal. Seamaster project   
    Another small step successfully taken  

  19. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to JasonND in My first Contribution - Heuer   
    Hello All, this is my first contribution to this thread. I have been doing the lessons for sometime and thought that it is time I meet some of you!
    1972 Heuer "Viceroy" Autavia fitted with a NOS Corfam band vintage Heuer buckle. 
     

  20. Thanks
    RyMoeller got a reaction from Nucejoe in Perrelet James Cook Antarctica Restoration   
    Interesting.  I've not even heard of the Perrelet watch brand until this very post but they have some cool timepieces- I like the "Turbine Family".
    Often the color of a watch dial is achieved through a chemical process.  To repeat it you would need to know what metal is used for the substrate (brass, steel, aluminum, etc.) 
    Anodizing also comes to mind because you can get some vivid really vivid colors.
  21. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to jdm in Seiko 5 7009-8210   
    It there is a tension ring there won't be a gasket. Water resistance will be based on surfaces (tight) contact and owner's responsibility.
  22. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to jdm in Oil Pallet Arbor Jewels   
    No, the recommendation is not to lubricated pallet pivots period. If you have time you can observe yourself what's the difference in amplitude between having dry or oiled pallet pivots. 
  23. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to oldhippy in Oil Pallet Arbor Jewels   
    Never oil the pallet pivots. If you do it causes drag, if you watch the action of the pallets they only move from side to side. A very tiny drop on the faces of the pallet stones is all that is needed. Some repairers prefer to just oil a few of the escape wheel teeth and by the rotation of the wheel; this will automatically oil the pallet stone faces. You must always use oil that is recommended for watch escapements.    
  24. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to Nucejoe in Thank you Rogart63   
    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor  @rogart63 .
    Following fourteen years of in to do box  I will hopefuly  bring my bulova snorkel back to life and  soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread.
    Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. 
    I have no problem shipping small parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

  25. Like
    RyMoeller reacted to oldhippy in Checking end and side shakes   
    You could check each wheel individually. That way you will not have anything obstructing your view. I always screwed the plates down to test.  
×
×
  • Create New...