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RCDesign

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RCDesign last won the day on November 13 2016

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About RCDesign

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  1. My opinion is something that says Rolex on the dial, but is not made by Rolex has no right to exist!It's great that you want to take up watchmaking – not much beats seeing the balance spring to life after your first service-but this one is not the way to go!I's best fixed (in my opinion) by putting it in your largest vise, squeeze it as tight as you can, when glass and metal parts start to fly, gather them in a box and take it to your local recycling station and let them make good use of it!
  2. From looking at your picture and pictures of cases using the 7733 - they have the pushers at "10 and 20 - past" => +/- 30deg from the stem. A quick measurement from your picture gives 28deg but it is taken with a slight angle so 30deg should be abt. right!
  3. Does anyone know the inductance of the "coil/transformer" in these chinese things? With a capacitor and a two pole switch you should be able to convert it to a automatic version! (but guessing the capacitor will have to be housed by itself due to its size)
  4. Glue a big nut to the back using superglue - let it cure - screw the back of using a wrench - done! I have opened many "stuck" cases this way - works like a charm! When the back is off - just let it sit in acetone for a while or boil it to get rid of the superglue (remember to remove the gasket)
  5. If you have a glass crystal that you need to polish - do it with a piece of glass! Example of grinding/polishing glass I used emery papper before - it works but with a piece of glass it's super fast and the results are way better!
  6. Can you tell me any more about The Elma we have in common?

  7. I have the same machine as you and the only difference from the one in Marks video is that he "spinns" the motor from jar to jar - in our version of the machine you spinn the jars to the motor!
  8. Clever! I was thinking somewhat in the same way at first but use my crosslide to part of the surface ´to be drilled! You could make a simple attachment with a screw if you need more travel!
  9. Red: Inside taper that matches the original tailstock with stop screw - welded smaller part with a threaded M6 hole Green: Drilled part that fits on runner (black) with stop screw-welded to small part that has a 4mm hole to seat the "leadscrew" Orange/yellow: M6 "leadscrew" turned down at the end to match 4mm hole in green part - welded to the knob (purple) I made everything frron stainless so I could use my small TIG-welder, but it could be made (probably better) from brass so it would be easy to solder together instead! Get most drills from Cousins (Dormer) but their smallest versions are very blunt - so I had to sharpen them under a microscope with i diamond hone. The 100µm ones I got from Amazon/Ebay? Sold as PCB-drills! The setup works somewhat like i vice!
  10. Made a tailstock modification today that I would like to share with you ! I have been using a home made drilling runner on my Boley/Leinen 8mm Reform lathe which I mainly use for making watchparts. The runner was made from 8mm stainless steel rod which I turned down to the 7.5mm in the tailstock. A small 3-jaw China made chuck held the drill bits in place. I used the supplied adapter that came with the chuck - a Morse taper to straight 5mm hole. The chuck was not perfectly centered but I usually solved this by finding center with a graver and loosening the bolt on the tailstock for some extra play. Last couple of weeks I made some parts that needed holes that where 0.4 and 0.2mm wide. The larger hole was no problem but when I drilled a 0.2mm hole in brass and then in plexi - it was obvious that the setup had reached its limit! So - what to do? First of all I needed better precision. So I removed the adapter from the chuck and cut a matching Morse taper directly on my 7.5mm rod. Tests where very promising - I easily hit center with drillbits down to 0.3-0.2mm. Tests where then made with a 2 flute 100µm drill in brass and.......yes It worked! I wanted to have control of the depth as I need to make some parts with a 1mm deep 100µm hole, this is hard with the lever operated versions that you usually see. I first taught of making a downsized version of a "standard" tailstock found on larger lathes but I had trouble making a good "custom" fit to the original Reform tailstock. Ended up with this first version: The parts made: Used M6 as it has a 1mm/turn pitch and a matching scale is easy to make. The taper on the outside of the tailstock took some experimenting to get right - but 3deg fits well! The final result:' ' Cut my "runner" a bit to much, so I only have 8mm travel - but it's enough for most work-will make a longer one if I need to! Drilling a 100µm hole on a flat surface worked like a charm! So - that's my take on easy to make drill adaptors!
  11. @Endeavor: -Yes, but your version takes a bit of "skill" to get to work! The versions with coils work with distance attenuation - the field gets weaker as you move the part/movement away from the coil. The automatic ones often use current attenuation, the field gets weaker around the part/movement so the part can be still. (picture from: https://www.j-ndk.co.jp/en/product/index_datsuji.html) In my version a capacitor is charged (takes abt .3s) and is then then is used in a parallel LC-circuit that takes abt. 50ms for the field to go from fully charged to zero. (depending on capacitor values, voltage and size of coil). The biggest plus is that you do not need to lift/move the movement in the coil/field and the results are equal time and time again!
  12. Here is my old Elma that I restored - but as you can see - it works the same way!
  13. If you like to build electronics - build your own - it's simple! Basically it is a coil that you connect a capacitor to, in parallel. The created magnetic field is "automatically" decreased as the capacitor discharges. Here is a picture of a simpel version I made using 2x12V PCB transformers (to get mains insulation) and a modified audiotransformer.
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