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wls1971

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Everything posted by wls1971

  1. £590.00 pounds overpriced ! modern tosh.
  2. Yes as you say the action seems Lazy in comparison to a platform lever or cylinder escapement, they also seem to inhabit a short space of time in carriage clock production 1830-1850 , with platform escapements soon superseding them. I did oil the escape wheels but just a small drop of oil on one tooth on each , it has been running three days now but I have not measured time keeping performance yet but I should imagine it will run far short of a good platform escapement.
  3. My heart did sink when I saw the prices for it on Amazon and Abe books, but Ebay came up trumps
  4. Thanks, I have managed to find a cheap copy of "About Time" so have ordered it, I could not find any videos of a running example so had no idea what the amplitude should be like.
  5. I have a wooden cased carriage clock dating from about 1840 fitted with a Paul Garnier "Chaff Cutter" Escapement, has anyone ever worked on or come across one of these it was a fore runner to the platform escapement, It runs but seem to have a arc of swing on the balance wheel of about 60 degrees is this correct for these escapements ?, it does run well and if the balance is gently stopped it springs back to life instantly once released, I have read that the action of the escapement is of a dead beat variety and is in some way related to a verge escapement but I can find very little on the web about them., It consists of two club toothed discs that make up the escape wheel, with a half circular disc with sloping edges on the staff, that releases and locks the opposing discs on the escape wheel as it swings. If anyone has any info or knows of a site with any please let me know.
  6. I've used all sorts of paper a high gloss photo paper printed on a inkjet does a good job of looking like an enamel dial. I use a canon inkjet there is a setting on it that puts more ink onto the paper for the blacks, Epson heavy weight matte paper is fantastic for non glossy printed dials it has a very fine surface finish to the paper.
  7. Definitely not worth getting parts for but worth keeping for parts you may need them one day its a fairly common Cyma movement, I can only suggest Ebay for Waltham parts there's plenty about.
  8. I've used Gimp quite a lot for flat dials, just scan the original and edit out the defects, the beauty of this you can lay the new dial over the top of the old, so if in the future you decide you want a dial restorer to work on it you have preserved it for future restoration. You can print on off white paper or card to make the dial look aged.
  9. The usual collection of tat I neither require or want, that I accept with all the faux joy, good grace and manners I can muster, but at my age if it doesn't come in a bottle I can usually live without it, still the local charity shops shall benefit in January from my Christmas haul. Grinch
  10. It would date from the mid to late 40's, not convinced by that dial at all, it looks like it has been repainted at some time recently, the only other variants of that model had two tone dials, and do not have Rolex Oyster printed on them just the Tudor name under the Tudor rose.
  11. wls1971

    Bobb

    Depending where you are based it may be better to buy from a wholesaler such as Cousin here in the U.K, you say the clock is fitted with a pendulum so you will need a movement with a drive unit built in for the pendulum. As far as repair goes clock repairers would not waste time trying to they would just do a straight swap out of the movement, you need to identify the movement fitted cousins have Hermle and Seiko versions available: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/strike-chime-with-pendulum-hermle https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/strike-chime-with-pendulum-seiko Also bare in mind that you would need one with the correct shaft size.
  12. Its a early Landeron possibly a Calibre 13, only way to identify for sure would be a pic of the keyless works, Eberhard in my experience from a number of years ago are a very good company to deal with if you require parts they will supply if they have them in stock, they also seem to have good factory records so if you contact them with the serial number they may be able to help.
  13. This is a very well written PDF on the subject well worth a read: http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/LaBounty-Burnishing.pdf
  14. Turn it over and unscrew the two screws from below this will release the cap jewel and allow the regulator to be removed, why does it need replacing ?
  15. I would think that you need to remove the watch bezel and drop the movement out through the front of the watch.
  16. You means the SC ? that's the code for center seconds a abbreviation of french seconde centrale
  17. It should be a early Seamaster with center seconds
  18. The red pointer should reset when the chronograph is reset, is the large white hand moving ? if so the chronograph is running, press the top button followed by the bottom button and all the hands should reset to zero, if not the hands have gone out of sync, these can be reset, unscrew the watch crown pull it all the way out, then press both the top and bottom chronograph buttons at the same time the chronograph seconds hand will do a complete revolution that indicates the watch is in hand reset mode pressing the top button will advance the large seconds hand one second at a time, pressing the bottom button will move the reset to the next sub dial hand, pressing the top button will then advance that hand one index at a time repeat till all hands are in their relative zero positions. If you get stuck their are plenty of youtube videos on the subject of resetting quartz chronographs.
  19. The red hand is the chronograph minute counter, there is no minute sub dial on these watches, top right sub dial 1/10th of a second bottom middle sub dial constant seconds, top left sub dial hour counter.
  20. Some spares for smiths are available you need to identify the platform fitted I think it will be a Smiths EA31 which was widely used by Smiths/Jaeger for car clocks there are some complete platforms available on Ebay and balance staff are available for them remove the platform and post some pics of the platform topside underside and side view.
  21. The rim wind Jaegers/Smiths are fitted with a calibre 201 7 jewel used both in aircraft and car clocks I dont know if the U.S would be the same. The only rim set car clock I have had was a Benrus Chrysler clock that fitted in the centre of the steering wheel and was automatic winding as you steered the car the clock wound , a very expensive option in the 1950's so very few where sold in the day, I sold it to a classic car restorer in America,
  22. If it is a FAZ the movement will be the same as this one: https://onatelier.co.uk/jaeger-classic-car-cockpit-clock
  23. This catalogue may help to I.D the clock: http://www.hells-confetti.com/Technical data/Jaeger Instruments/British Jaeger Dashboard Instruments.pdf
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