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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/12/22 in Posts

  1. 1970 Seiko 5606-7000 with hand made stamp dial. Running at 0 SPD and amplitude over 300 degrees at full wind.
    6 points
  2. Inspired by the Mastercraft winder I tried to use its principle for a „quick and dirty“ mainspring winder. The spring I used for testing has an arbor diameter of 2,2mm (left wound) and the barrel has an ID of 8mm. The mainspring has a hight of 1,2mm. So I found a washer with the right thickness of 1,2mm, drilled it to 7,5mm ID and cut a slot in with my dremel. Then the washer was fixed to a board with three tiny drops of super glue. I used the original lid and arbor and my pin vice to complete the tool. The rest is selfexplaining looking at the pics. Any thoughts?
    5 points
  3. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/component-probe-horotec-26009
    4 points
  4. My dad gave me this pocket watch, it was a gift to ware at my sisters wedding, I was 12 years old, I'm now 60. At some point I dropped it too many times and it stopped working, so it got stuffed into a drawer and forgotten...until now. I took it apart and found the escarpment wheel had a broken pivot. I was able to source a new escapement wheel and proceeded to clean and rebuild the watch. At one point I thought I had failed as the balance wheel would not rotate correctly, but I then found that I had installed the wrong screw into the pallet cock bridge and the balance was just barley rubbing on it, but enough to mess it up. Once I figured that out it started to run...and too my absolute joy, it works great now!!! Really a great and fun rebuild / fix, especially because it was a gift from my late dad.
    4 points
  5. So after my booboo and ordering the wrong size mainspring winder I thought I would pass the time being creative and not sat infront of TV waiting for the post man to deliver my goods. so I've been on my woodworking lathe making these pens
    4 points
  6. Just won this little Tissot expected next week some time
    4 points
  7. I never throw away anything. I'm a hoarder. I'll probably grind off the tips and reshape them. If the tips are too soft, I'll try hardening them. If that doesn't work, I'll still keep the metal in my scrap drawer. You never know when it may come in handy.
    4 points
  8. Just another Ellott to add to the other two I have. Got this for just under £50 which is a bargain considering one I have which is just a timepiece in a walnut case cost me over £200. Also all net proceeds will support Cats Protection, as you may or not know I love cats.
    4 points
  9. That's a full 360 rotation, but only 180 degrees amplitude, which is not that good at all. Balance wheel amplitude is the angle of rotation from the neutral point (where the wheel would be sitting if the balance was at rest with no power on) and either one of its extremes of rotation (the point where it reverses direction), so half the total rotation from one extreme to the other. If the amplitude was 360 then the balance would rotate a full 720 degrees from its extreme clockwise position to its extreme anticlockwise position, which as @nickelsilverpoints out, is impossible as the pallet fork would be in the way and hard up against the banking. You would get re-banking, with the impulse jewel crashing into the outside of the fork horns causing the balance wheel to rebound. Sounds like a galloping horse.
    4 points
  10. Thank you Kalanag, and to all. Done it. Been trying for days. Ping, ping, ping. Search for the spring. Tried it again today. A small piece of Rodico on the spring stuck to the tweezers when I removed the spring from the Rodico. Used that as the holder, placed it against the gap. Closed my eyes and took a breath. Now I'll push it in. What? Don't need to, as it is already in. Gently push each side of the spring into place. Done!!! Cleaned the base again. Tomorrow I will try to put the gems back in. Woohoo! Ross
    3 points
  11. I believe its a K & D. Very few piece show excessive wear. OCD level 3 and still not finished:
    3 points
  12. Typically they never come out of the frame at least they're not supposed to. I have a picture showing how you're supposed to lubricated and how it disassemble the symbols etc.
    3 points
  13. It be rather nice if you had a timing machine? Even though you may have just purchased the watch there is no guarantee that the watch hasn't been sitting around for the last 10 years and is in desperate need of servicing. Then there is the other problem with automatic watches if the mainspring slips prematurely or slips too much. To keep automatic watches from breaking the mainspring the end of the spring is been designed to slip when the watches getting near to wound up. It's only supposed to slip a little bit if it slips too much you're not going to have enough running time. If the lubrication goes bad you could have premature slipping or it just might not hold at all. Then the power reserve is supposedly because I just now that up around 41 hours. But it also assumes that it's fully wound up because one of the problems of the automatic is it really takes a lot of the automatic to actually wind the main spring up. To understand that put a Mark on your ratchet wheel and then turn the rotor how many times does rotor have to spin for one revolution of your ratchet wheel? Then a fully wound up ratchet wheel as a guess what I'm looking at is about eight full turns which would be equivalent of how many turns of the rotor? Then while I was looking at the Internet notice that somebody else was having the exact same problem and the answer I gave was the same answer they gave the watch might need to be serviced. It's the unfortunate problem of new watches they look new but how long have they been sitting in the store. Then yes the person who asked the question claim that other people are having the same problem so it may be a common problem.
    3 points
  14. So, I re-did the whole Level 3 course and this time I nailed the assessment with a 95.24% Yea!
    3 points
  15. As anyone knows on this discussion group I regard each watch is an individual problem and I don't like generalizations which is the way this discussion is going. So for generalized nations before attempting to time will watch not that you can't the timing machine is still good for diagnostic purposes but before you try to regulate a watch you need to have proper amplitude. As the amplitude drops problems magnify. Positional errors become much much worse and a stamp to do is low enough to beat error will increase and it's not the beat error is because you got to get your amplitude up. As were discussing American pocket watches? Typically bimetallic balance wheels this means if they're squeezed and we all loved the squeeze our bimetallic balance wheels don't we? But they don't like to be squeezed and then there out of round. This creates positional timekeeping issues. Usually when you look at your balance wheel it should be running flat not wobbling all over the place. They hairspring should be flat and where it's supposed to be. Then your beat it be nice to be closer to zero but it can be off a little bit depends on the watch as long as you have proper amplitude. Then you can look at the timekeeping and make some decisions? Like can it be regulated at all? Often times people in the past like the play with their watches they don't have a timing machine they don't necessarily see the consequences of what they're doing. In the past most watchmakers never looked at the watch beyond one position so positional errors are discovering noticed. Or those nifty movable banking pins I get moved along with just about anything else so all of this at some point time may have to be fixed testing at the amplitude of. If you're seeing huge differences in poising error I find it's usually best to statically poise. If you reasonably properly static poise you can get a Delta within 15 seconds. Ideally when you're timing a watch you should develop a procedure. Timing procedures would be for instance you wind your watch up tight in you let it run at least 15 minutes to an hour. That's the modern recommendation if it's wound up the very tightest it 10 step too much amplitude and timing can be unstable so it needs to settle down a little bit. It also notice typically with pocket watches when you changed positions it takes a little bit for the Balance wheel and or timing machine to synchronize and be stable again. So maybe a minimum of 30 seconds between changing positions and measuring for about 30 seconds. Then while most these watches were really timed and six positions always good to evaluate your watches and six positions. But not necessarily get obsessed with well are typically not a Rolex watch so you shouldn't expect chronometer timekeeping.
    3 points
  16. I find if you really want to know the amplitude with the modern timing machine you have to follow the procedure at the video below. That's because lift angle for American pocket watches can very think the lowest I've recorded has been about 38 to 62° and this is independent of the size of the verse watches. In other words is because the watch is a 16 size you can't say it's going to be a low lift angle because it might actually be a higher lift angle.
    3 points
  17. it was 60 bucks' and it keeps great time
    3 points
  18. That's shellac. It's used an adhesive to set the pallet jewels in position. That's perfectly normal. The colour of the shellac can vary from a very light blonde to a very dark brunette.
    3 points
  19. I was going to suggest "Eclipse" pin vices as I have a number of them and they are very good indeed. However I have just had a look at them on Amazon and I don't think that they are what they used to be. Mine are all vintage, I would say 1950's to 1970's, and made in England. They are very well made and look almost identical to the Starrett set. The new ones on Amazon look a little different and not so well finished. I'm wondering if they are now a cheaper product altogether that is just trading on a previously quality name. If you can track down the vintage Starrett styles ones on eBay though then provided they haven't been abused they are a good buy.
    2 points
  20. Not necessarily, springs can last a surprising time. It depends on how it looks, and if it has lost it's elasticity. Do you have a pic of the spring out of the barrel ?
    2 points
  21. Brilliant. If the arbor is to be re-used you want to make sure no damage comes to it during the process.
    2 points
  22. Caution on the bamboo, it's not a wood but a grass. High in silica, which is very hard and abrasive. It'll leave scratch marks where true woods won't. From a woodworking perspective, working wood will eventually dull blades exactly as you'd expect. Working bamboo either takes special blades, or you'll eat edges in a hurry. Incorporating silica into their cell structure was grasses' killer evolutionary app. Nothing could eat them because it would erode their teeth PDQ. Also part of what makes it difficult to digest. Eventually, the evolutionary arms race caught up, and critters figured out how to eat the stuff, but not before it transformed landscapes worldwide.
    2 points
  23. It begs the question when a new movement can be had for the princely sum of £2.30 plus vat and shipping....
    2 points
  24. For some reason, I suddenly had a desire to learn how to repair watches! I am a designer and engineer by profession, who has not done any real engineering or design in the physical sense, after I sold my old motercycle, And I think that somehting has been welling up inside of me over the years. And then, when I see the watches for sale in shops or stalls, I have a strong design to buy them. Anyway, for the past 6 months or so, I have bought a set of tools, and I am teaching myself to clearn and lubricate watches. And I want to continue doing it... I am on my fourth, and I think I am at the stage where I can lubricate in the corrent way, and I can pick up springs without them vanishing into the fourth dimension. Do I need treatment?
    2 points
  25. 1- Hairspring's coil has coned and its highly likely to be rubbing on balance spoke, The coil should be flat ,concentric, level and stand at the same height as its collet. 2- Loosen the cock screw, if the oscilator then runs !! then the issue is lack of end shake. Pivots and setting appear OK? Fork snapping , barrel power , power transfer through the gear train are all unrelated to the issue here.
    2 points
  26. At least we both told him the same thing!
    2 points
  27. Was the spring original (blued or black steel)? That would definitely need replacing. Let down the power and remove the click. Rotate the barrel forward and back a fraction while watching the train. Look for any wheels that wobble around or back/forth which would indicate worn or broken pivots or worn bearing holes. That could cause the stop/start problem as wobbly pivots can allow other things rub and cause friction. I wouldn't suspect a balance problem unless the pivots are broken or something (which is all too common). Disclaimer: I'm just learning myself, but thinking and writing about stuff is how I Iearn.
    2 points
  28. try sanding the wood instead of using a knife (fine sand paper) just make sure you wipe off the dust Here you go from Cousins https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/component-probe-cousins?code=S53397
    2 points
  29. I've been pegging some small jewel holes this afternoon. Despite using Bergeon Beech wood, I find it hard to get a really fine point. So for the smallest holes I use bamboo skewers. It's much easier to get a fine point.
    2 points
  30. Good doesn't necessarily need to be expensive and cheap doesn't mean it's bad. I have $2 tweezers and $20 screwdriver sets. And they work fine. The important thing is knowing how to care and maintain your tools. Tweezers and screwdrivers need to be dressed to perform properly. The only thing important to me is the quality of the metal. Anything else can be reworked and refinished to suit preferences. If the metal is weak and breaks or bends easily, then that is useless. I buy a lot of cheap screwdriver sets from $2 stores to make custom tools. That hurts a lot less than grinding down a $10 Swiss screwdriver. So, get a set of grinding stones to reshape and dress your tools. And always use the right tool for the job. I don't know how your tweezers ended up looking like that but I'm sure it was used for something creative.
    2 points
  31. as others have stated 360° is a very undesirable amplitude. I think usually about 320 is the maximum because anything over he you will have bad things happen. yyes the problem of vintage watches they don't give us a lift angle.. Then yes from the ones that I've measured they can vary by quite a bit and it's really independent of their size.. The ones I've figured out range from anywhere from 38 to 62°.. tthen in addition to lift angle problem if you amplitude is super low often times the timing machine will look at the middle part of the waveform and give you an abnormally high number. Which means visually your amplitude has to agree with the machine or the machine is having a problem.. then as others have pointed out that appears to be a mean time screw it's not supposed to ever come out. They're not supposed to be screwed in tight either but sometimes you find him that way. Another way to tell is usually the threaded part is longer. Then of course the thread dimensions are entirely different the usually much finer and are designed to stay in place hopefully. The word hopeful is because of they get played with too much they get loose. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/15644188 obviously not your serial number but close enough. Being as it's a seven jewel watch of that size I'm suspicious as to whether it has a mean time screw or not? because usually mean time screws are associated with better grade balance wheels which would never be found on a seven jewel watch especially of this size. It's possible that somebody is mixing and matching components before you and shoving and whatever they had.
    2 points
  32. Buy a working movement, if it still works when you have reassembled it, then you have done nothing wrong. Fault finding is more difficult than a service, I've learnt the hard way.
    2 points
  33. Hello and welcome to the forum. I have attached a little reading to introduce you to complexities of the watch. Hope you find it usefull 1612608791_ToolsfortheHobbyist (2) (1).pdf TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    2 points
  34. Tweezers and screwdrivers are worth putting a little money into. Anything you use constantly. If you were to now go buy a pair of Dumont #2 or #5, they're just $6 more expensive than they would have been had you bought them the first time. My kneejerk on the detritus is that it looks like a shock spring that went through the wash. Flatten it out, and it looks like it's missing the the end of one tine, and the hook that fits into the setting. If you have all of yours, then it's probably Sea Gull QC failings.
    2 points
  35. Using the Rodico means you don't have to hold the spring in (wobbling) tweezers. You can just push it down with pegwood. Good luck
    2 points
  36. That looks like a meantime screw, should be a light friction fit on the threads, and is used to adjust the rate in addition to the regulator. Usually isn't screwed all the way in, should stay with the balance. Check other screws for timing washers and remove those, see how it does. If you need to remove weight still you can trim other screws as needed. 360 degrees isn't possible, were you looking at the timing machine's amplitude or the watch itself? The lift angle on some of these is quite low, even below 40; if you're set to 52 you'll get an artificially high reading.
    2 points
  37. Good practice for a couple of days will develop your natural ability, keep at it.
    2 points
  38. Is it an Inclabloc 'lyre' type spring where you have to get "T" end back in place ? They seem nearly impossible when you are a beginner - but you will look back in a few years and wonder why you struggled ! One way to make it easier is to put some Rodico at the edge of the block where you are trying slide to spring in. Stick the spring to the Rodico vertically - you may need to adjust the angle to get it to slide in. Then using pegwood and tweezers, slide the spring down in to place. The Rodico should stop it pinging off. It's much easier if you are lucky enough to have a microscope to work under
    2 points
  39. If it's 19L, then 42.86 mm I had a look in Best Fit to try to identify the keyless work, but nothing close.
    2 points
  40. Generic seagull factory swarf? Some of those Chinese clones are actually pretty nice -- some are terrible. It also looks like your tweezers need some TLC
    2 points
  41. I bought selections of 100 each of screws, springs and click springs from cousinsuk, cost about £6.00. I have been taking them from their boxes onto the mat, turning them over, picking up and putting them in another dish then reversing the process after doing all 100 of a type. Advantage of doing this is if you ping one off to the Swiss space program it doesn’t really matter as it is not part of the movement and is really cheap to get lots of practice. Tom Oh, and you have potential spares for the future Tom
    2 points
  42. Don't know if anyone else noticed this but Moebious are now doing a slightly cheaper route into using their Fixodrop, Moebius 8981 Fixodrop (Ready to Use), 10ml Supplied in a small application bottle with mesh filter built into the bottle, only 10ml but also under £30, should do a few pallets and end stones and a cheaper route into seeing if an Epelame works as claimed, at that price even I may get some. I wonder what the evaporation time is for 10ml in a none pinched neck bottle.
    2 points
  43. Not every military issued watch had the arrow. I have a military issued and battlefield damaged/repaired Cyma, and the dial is very similar. Case is very different though. Case back is completely wrecked due to someone in the past scratching off the D#. Numbers are brass(?). Hands are not original.
    2 points
  44. Obviously the watch was made by Certina for your father‘s company (Waitaki Refrigerants Ltd.) in a limited number using a quartz movement of the Swatch group. Waitaki Ltd. used it as a 30 years jubilee gift. Most likely it has a decent quality but has little material value.
    2 points
  45. Hi kiwi. One of my favourite fruits by the way, considered as something of a super food by some. Oh yeah watch forum. What are you wanting to know matey ? Just about the model you have ? Its value ? Some googling may give you a few answers. Or about the watch company's history. Certina has been a good make since its beginnings. Founded by the kurth brothers around the end of the 19th century in Switzerland at the base of the jura mountains where a lot of swiss brands originated from. They followed a path of a good marketing strategy, sending their watches to the depths of the ocean and to the peaks of the himalayas. And recruiting famous folk such as Ali to adorn their wrists with them all in order to promote their brand. A tactic employed by other brands, more famously Rolex who were masters of it. So yes in history a very good brand. Sad to say that all this information is more or less irrelevant to the Certina brand of today as the company was taken over by the swatch group in 1983 . As you can see by my disgruntled face that fact bothers me. Maybe it was out of necessitity for a failing company or maybe it was the family just wanted out and a large lump of cash in their pockets, i suppose who can blame them. Either way another quality brand plucked from history by swatch to add to their collection , note my annoyance once more. So probably still a good watch probaby still made in the same factories made by the same people but under swatches rule. Your watch is still swiss made so of resonable quality probably on a par with Tissot possibly a bit better as im no expert on Certina's quality of this period. All this besides it was your old man's watch, its a nice watch and you have good sentiment my friend and your children will cherish it. I have my grandfather's russian sekonda, its a battered piece of shite but its my favourite watch. X
    2 points
  46. Hi Greg. Yes the hour wheel should not be a tight fit, it needs to revlove freely independent of the cannon pinion. Maybe one or the other has been changed or damaged at some point. Was it tight as soon as it was placed on the cannon pinion or as it was engaging with the intermediate wheel ? I would first start by removing the hour wheel and observe how the watch runs. Do you remember it being tight when you removed it ? If not has something happened since then ? Have you raised any material on the cannon pinion that could be causing friction between that and the hour wheel when you removed the cannon pinion ? Yes Greg it should be a reasonably firm fit. Generally they are more prone to becoming loose, this would cause the minuit hand to flop around. Your issue is pointing towards the tight hour wheel. Just as a side note to helping newbies with slowing down their eagerness to jump in strip down and then faulter to put back together. # inspection during disassembly is just as important as correction of reassembly # Guru Richy
    2 points
  47. Welcome @georgem10, Marshall has a good YT channel and he makes it look easy. Just remember you will probably take longer than an hour to repair your watch! There are a lot of helpful people here. Where are you located in the world?
    2 points
  48. I no nothing about cars and I don't buy flat backed furniture.
    2 points
  49. For you who encounter this problem, things have changed at least here in the USA, dont hesitate to try and correct your vision,my cataract surgeries were very easy , the vitrectomy WAS scarry to me,, they stick 2 needles in your eye and a light in the 3rd hole, and draw all the vitreous out that has all the old yellowed /stringy fluid/ floaters, blobs and what nots.mine were so bad they floated up in my vision blocking what ever i tried to work on, and driving was a booger. they replace it with a solution, I COULD NOT believe the clarity difference, i had no vision the first day, it did hurt a few days and i looked liked someone gave me a black eye but it all healed in a few weeks by the 3rd day i could see watch parts again!!, now i have 20/16 vision in my right eye that was 20/200 before, i had to wear glasses ALL of my life,, i am heading Back to have the left eye done in a few months,Take care of yourselves,,stay well, no one will do it for you,
    2 points
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