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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points

    Why does this barrel say do not open

    Still working and keeping good time.
  2. 4 points

    First project

    I just completed my first project - (nearly, as described below) full service of this Elgin Sportsman. I polished the crystal and cleaned a whole bunch of gunk out. It's mostly complete - I have a new main spring for it that justbarribed with the strap (I was waiting to pay shipping once). I've given it to my wife and she chose the strap herself. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
  3. 3 points

    New Workshop/Studio

    Barracuda caught in Thailand March 2019 Island Kho Muk
  4. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Omega Speedmaster 1964, my favourite watch !
  5. 3 points

    Names of movement parts

    Either “Sir” or “Madam” should be fine
  6. 2 points

    Seiko Spring Drive

    Here's a video of the Seiko Spring Drive system that some of you may not know about. It's very ingenious! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FbmKZ5JXyjo
  7. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    "Then Mrs Me walked in and said " are you looking for clues" anyway it's called CHICKS and I have never heard of it ! " Luck you didn't say you were looking for your chick's bits which had just disappeared under the table. I suspect you would be sleeping in the dog house if you had.
  8. 2 points

    Help needed with sweep seconds

    I've not worked on one of these but a quick Google and the found pics show it as an indirect centre seconds movement. These almost always have a tension spring of some kind that acts on the seconds pinion to prevent the jittery motion of the seconds hand. In the above you can see circled in red a screw that passes through the centre seconds cock and appears to bear on a flat spring. My guess is that that is the tension spring and the tension is adjusted with the screw. try turning the screw to increase the tension on the centre seconds pinion until the jittering just stops. You may need to lubricate the contact between the spring and the pinion if you haven't already done so. The tension needs to be just enough to smooth out the motion of the hand whilst keeping loss of amplitude to a minimum (there will be some loss, it's unavoidable).
  9. 2 points

    ETA 2824-2 setting problem

    Good work on mentally backtracking and figuring out what you did wrong. Most of the mistakes and slips I've made have been late at night or when I'm rushing to finish a project. Its best to step back and cover everything up for another time if fatigued. J
  10. 2 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    Robbed... positively fried I would say. However, on the plus side, I can use it as an excuse to tell terrible sausage jokes... Capitalism, Socialism, and Communism have a meeting for tea at noon. Capitalism and Communism arrive on time, but Socialism is nowhere to be found. Finally he arrives, out of breath and apologetic." I'm sorry," says Socialism, "I was standing in line for sausage." Capitalism says - "What's a line?" And Communism says - "What's a sausage?" ... or ... There were two sausages in a frying pan. One sausage turned to the other and said "man its hot in here", the other sausage looked shocked turned and said.. "Now there's something you don't see every day... a taking sausage!!" ... or if that doesn't tickle you ... There's this butcher and one day just as he is about to close the shop for the day a dog came in with a note in his mouth. The note read "Can I have a steak and three sausage links please?" The butcher took the note and gathered the things. When he turned back around he was surprised to see a twenty dollar bill in the dog's mouth. The dog grabbed the meat in a bag and left the shop. The astounded butcher decides to close up his shop and follow the dog. The pair soon came to a bus stop. The dog looked at the schedule and sat down on the bench. The first bus came and the dog got up and trotted over to the front of the bus, looked at the number and sat back down. Another bus came and again the dog looked at the bus number and saw it was the right one. He got on, the butcher closely following. The bus rumbled on and the dog jumped up walked to the front of the bus, leaped up and rang the bell to stop the bus. The dog got out with the butcher in tow and headed off down the street. After some time they turned in to a driveway. The dog bounded down the tarmac to the door and clattered the letter box. The dog did it again and hopped up on a fence to peer in the window. The canine knocked on the window with his paw then jumped back on to the tarmac, grabbed the meat and walked up to the door. The door opened and a man walked out and started to yell at the dog. The butcher ran up to stop him. The butcher said "What are you doing? This dog is amazing!" "What are you talking about? This is the second time this week that he's forgot his key!" BTW - Pro tip.. Do NOT Google "Sausage watch"... just saying...
  11. 2 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    You have been pronouncing it wrong all these years.
  12. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    I dunno , If getting a sweet watch like that one for that price is being young and stupid ,..then count me in....figuratively speaking . In any case , I really like your watch and went to dig mine out because I thought they were the same . I can honestly say that I am just starting to learn the numbers and nuances of Omega watches , and the speedmasters in particular all look the same to me but I am slowly starting to see and learn the subtle differences . Here is a pic I found on the internet of what mine looks like . One big difference in mine compared to most I have seen is the numerals under the indices ,....among other things .
  13. 2 points

    Watch Cleaning (Hobbyist level).

    Hello All. I currently use a small ultrasonic cleaner from James Products. It is about 500ml, 42kHz and about 50watts of cleaning power. I have been using this with warm water in it. In the water I have been using glass containers containing clean Renata Essence as the cleaning medium. After cleaning the pivot holes/jewels with peg wood, the watch parts placed are then inside the jars with the Essence. I Then run the ultrasonic for about 5 minutes and then take the jars out. The parts are then individually removed and given a blow dry (with a bulb puffer) and then stored in my parts trays until needed for re-assembly. My questions are: 1 - Is this a good enough? 2 - Would I get better results from using a proper watch cleaning fluid? (what would be recommended?) 3 - If using a watch cleaning fluid, would I need to then use a rinse or final finish of some kind? (Again, recommendations, if yes.) I am looking out on t'internet for a second-hand watch cleaning machine and there are a few about sometimes, typically for around £100 for an old but useable machine. Are these likely too be good value, or am I better off with what I am doing? I'm retired (early) and only doing this as a hobby, so I have time on my hands to do things the long way, but also have a (little bit) of money for a suitable watch cleaning machine, should something come up. Sorry for lots of questions, but I want to do the best job I can with cleaning. Cheers Moose.
  14. 2 points

    Watch Cleaning (Hobbyist level).

    I clean exactly the same way in Naptha and it seems to work well for me. Cleaning solutions and a machine would be nice, But I, too, am retired and a hobbyist, so the costs are difficult to justify. RMD
  15. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Lecoultre master mariner with bumper movement,
  16. 2 points
    Hmmm, kind of! But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking. After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle). I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament. Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first). Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
  17. 2 points

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  18. 2 points

    New Workshop/Studio

    Not long been back from Thailand. Love the place. Been 3 times now. Did Island hopping, lot of sea fishing - fresh fish with Thai food every day. The fish we caught we gave excess to t he locals and t he hotel chef cooked meals for 4 for 300Bhat. Cool! Have a great holiday Mark.
  19. 2 points
    A faceted crystal has ..faces but not a lip. Seiko did not use glue often, and the crystal will not leave by pushing with a thumb. Fortunately, Seiko helps watch repairers by classifying and documenting the case construction, here we have an "A" as stamped on the case back. Attached the guide. A good discussion is at https://www.plus9time.com/seiko-case-back-information BTW, I recommend the OP to use the "Watch Repairs Help & Advice" section when it's repair question like this. One advantage is that there answers can be rated and marked as resolving. 1982.03 Seiko Case Servicing Guide.pdf
  20. 2 points
    I just press the tip of the hand down at the center of the 12 marker with a finger as I push on the plunger. With the hour and minute counters I just adjust the alignment by rotating the plunger as I'm pressing down. Also you might hear some people tell you to hold the reset button in as you install the hands. Does nothing here so save yourself the effort. It does press the hammer into the hour recorder but only the hour recorder, and when you let go of the reset and the brake comes to mesh with the teeth on the hour recorder wheel chances are the hand will be shifted out of alignment.
  21. 2 points
    I suspect it is fully wound, and simply doesn't run. Probably in need of a clean.
  22. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    This one just came off the work bench.The progeny of two movements with different issues.it has more positional variation than I like,but it is shuffling along pretty well.genuwine leather strap from the Wal-Mart discount bin set me back a whole 99 cents
  23. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Really clean example of this watch ,...Nice work Johnnie . They say , "like minds think alike" , ........That may be true .
  24. 2 points

    Most Useless Watch Tool

    I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with. Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?
  25. 2 points

    Most Useless Watch Tool

    yes; this is a very good tool. IF you ever work on vintage watches.
  26. 2 points

    Aerowatch Neuchatel conversion...

    Perfect fitting ...and i just can say it is a superb watch ! What say you? Послато са SM-J600FN уз помоћ Тапатока
  27. 2 points

    I put away my cartridge razor

    About 20 years ago I came across my dad's old straight razor, a Sheffield made Taylor's Eye Witness. It was just the blade and dad had relegated it to cutting quill pens for calligraphy. He once told me that he considered one of his greatest achievements to be successfully shaving with it on a moving steam train just after WW2 without any blood loss. Anyway, I made new scales for it, honed it up and gave it a go, and was mightily impressed. I have since managed to accumulate around 30 of the things along with a couple of vintage strops, and they are regularly used as part of my daily ablutions. However, for speed on workday mornings I use a DE razor. I have 2 of them, a 1950's Gillette Aristocrat, and a 1920's Gillette #77 set open comb (the only 2 piece Gillette ever made), and they get used in equal measure. Using Wilkinson Sword blades they are about the best shave I've ever had after the straight. As for saving money, my entire shaving inventory has been sourced from car boot sales for a total cost of about £40, and that includes 25 unopened packs of NOS Wilkinson Sword blades. Vintage Gillettes are now very collectible. I have managed to pick up a good half dozen at car boot sales over the last couple of years, never pay more than about £2, clean them up and straight on ebay. The one piece TTO's and adjustables always fetch good money, and mint boxed Aristocrats reliably get well over £100.
  28. 2 points

    Most Useless Watch Tool

    I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.
  29. 2 points

    Most Useless Watch Tool

    I disagree with the premise.It has one use.so it is not useless..It would more correctly be called the least useful watch tool.
  30. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Today I have a Ruhla/UMF "Falux" branded pin lever based on a late variant of their Caliber 24 design and produced in the GRD around 1978. The movement looked familiar, and indeed is very similar to a Saxon branded Ruhla I restored at back in november. I found a couple of nearly identical versions of this dial on line, with Saxon and other logos. It runs reasonably well, but the balance objects if I try to get the beat error below about 3ms, so there is probably a little wear or eccentricity issue there. I didn't delve any deeper as I suspect it might not be possible to improve on the results owing to the somewhat rudimentary nature of the balance. It whirs away at a somewhat pedestrian 18000 bph with an almost cartoonish and very audible tick-tock, but has kept pretty reliable time over the last day or so. Edit: Given the spec of the movement, I think this particular one is well within spec. Escapement: Pin Pallet Escapement with a Safety Blade and Roller Balance Spring: Temperature Compensating Accuracy: +240 sec/ – 120 sec/day Number of Beats per Hour: 18,000 Diameter of movement: 24mm Height of movement: 6mm -2 to +4 mins per day. That is a pretty big target to hit.
  31. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    And today it's a Seiko...
  32. 2 points

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 2 points

    ETA2408 Balance Complete

    Just to update you all. Thanks to HSL kindly sorting out a balance complete for an eta2408, I’ve now brought this attractive gents accurist back to life. Thanks HSL, much appreciated sir! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point

    Watch of Today

    Allwyn on test on the wrist today.
  35. 1 point
    Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  36. 1 point

    HAC (Hamburg American Clock) problem

    I would check behind the snail for wear and the part with red arrow and make sure all is correct. These clocks are prone to wear in the strike as the brass is of poor quality. It might be a good idea to take off all the strike make sure the wheels are in there proper place and re-build inspecting every part as you go. Are you sure, the wheel with the wobble does not have a bent pivot. Don’t forget the two pins on the minute wheel, if they are worn or bent the lever will not rise as it should. You have a wheel missing that is why the snail is so loose. Have you removed it?
  37. 1 point

    The Brasso Scourge

    What do you use?
  38. 1 point

    Mainspring Valjoux 7750

    A recently serviced 7750 with a broken mainspring should raise an eyebrow or two, I would have made a complete overhaul while being at it. You can access it from the back but the amount of junk you have to take away makes it not worth for example leaving stuff on the train Wheel bridge to cut some work. I guess you already got the service manual but I attache it here anyway just for the public interest 7750 Service Manual.pdf
  39. 1 point


    I found some additional information you might find useful. Then on page 7 of the PDF it talks about the application. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/files/security_sheet/tinf_8980-8981-8982_fixodrop_es-bs_en.pdf https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=fixodrop BHI The Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches Version 2008.0.pdf
  40. 1 point

    New Workshop/Studio

    A break from filming is acceptable, the print your own dial was the one I was eagerly awaiting so no pressure on the next strip and clean. Next week will do.
  41. 1 point

    roamer quartz

    Hi bernie, May need just a clean. To kick start, put some lighter fluid on jewels/ holes of the gear train you can reach, push an accessible wheel to make it go. Any evidence of water/ moisture having got to the EB? Water ruins the EB and it behaves as you described, not repairable.
  42. 1 point
    Normally anyone who used to work on a certain caliber, should have bunch of scrap balances, from which a good impulse pin can be removed and reused. I don,t see that as anything unusual, The problem is proper removal and installation which requires staking set and some skill, So as long as you got a good HS and the matching wheel , the rest is what used to be routinely done at repairshops. Another wheel is not a good option. Hardly any demand for parts to such old pieces so they are cheap.Once we know the right one, I think I should send two just to be on the safe side. I guess many diferent size staffs of similare shape we made for various calibers. I got a feeling this is one of those instances you see an old piece which gives a feeling of the golden days and you feel good bringing it back to life. I enjoy seeing you see the job through for that feeling and is truely worth it. I had no idea I could get this poetic. regards
  43. 1 point
    According to balancestaffs.com, The closest would be rego 148, correct you are153, 154, 148, 1149 linge 13.5 . I forwarded the pic you posted to this retired repairman just by the looks he says he got the staff but not the impulse pin and added looks like you can use an impulse pin, looks damaged. To get the exact right staff, we now need a friend with micrometer. I,ll dig in my bag of tricks for possible complete balance, don,t even know if spare ones were marketed. Next I,ll check your birthday date. Regards
  44. 1 point

    Most Useless Watch Tool

    Is that a Left or Right Handed Hammer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  45. 1 point

    Watch of Today

    Another franken but really clean with a beautiful dial I really like.
  46. 1 point

    3-D printed case

    @noirrac1j Nice to meet you too. For the case back are you just going to use some metal plate or will it also be 3d printed. I have a spare ronda movement in my parts draw I will have to have a go at making a case for it. This thread has really got me excited about the possibilities.
  47. 1 point

    Watch repair oil & grease

    What sort of watches do you want to work on? Pocket watches? Mechanical Wristwates? Auto or Manual? Quartz watches? Pocket watches and wrist watches have some oils that are used on both of them, but also different oils too. To get all the oils and greases you use will set you back a couple of hundred dollars. A not extensive list of oils abd greases are: Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches. Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth. A quality silicon grease for case gaskets Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work). Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work. Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction). Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring on manual wind watches But when starting out just get Moebius 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200, you can add the rest as time goes on
  48. 1 point

    Screw Blueing

    Ive had some time to tinker with this technique and am happy to report some good results. If this has already been posted please forgive me but Im so excited I just had to share. Of course everyone knows how to blue their screws. I wanted to spice up a couple of builds and didnt want to spend 8 dollars a screw. So I spent a few hours testing and came up with this process. I take my screws and polish the heads on emory paper. Once thats done I place them in this brass jig which is basically an old bridge I had laying around. I tried to do this in the tweezers and for some reason it works ten times better in the jig. I think the brass helps distribute the heat more evenly. Also its imperative to direct the heat to the thread side of the screw. When I would blast the heads it never seemed to work right or at least in a predictable fashion. Its also key to make sure your heat, if youre using a pen torch like me is on a low setting and on the same axis as your screw. If you come in at an angle youll get an uneven finish. It takes a little trial and error. Be patient the farther you are away from your heat source the longer it will take but the deeper the blue you will get and the longer the colors will stay in phase. I used just regular canola oil to quench. Its key to get it in quench right away. In fact when you get real good at it youll actually be able to time the quench right when it hits blue. The color phases will be gold to purple to blue. Just as it starts to go from purple to blue id drop it in the quench. I found that the blue isnt as blue as the ones you can buy. Honestly to me the store bought ones are too blue and are a bit tacky. I dont think the store bought ones are blued by heating but rather by a chemical process. I have some gun blueing chemical on the way to try as well. I will report back with thos results. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  49. 1 point

    Watchmakers Lathe Or Mini Lathe

    For the high precision required for making watch parts I would recommend a watchmakers lathe. If buying second hand try to ensure all is correct regarding condition. A mini lathe is indeed a very handy tool and good for the likes of model and clock making, but does not generally have the higher precision required for watches.
  50. 1 point

    tools for newbs?

    My email signature at work is - "When all you have is a screwdriver handle, everything looks like a nail" Some may recognize it as a takeoff of on another saying, "When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" So, not only the wrong tool for the job, not even using the tool appropriately! I came up with this when I was bashing away with a screwdriver handle at UPS case that had a bloated battery inside. Didn't have a hammer, or even better a nice pair of the right sized pliers, or best some sheet metal tools!. None of which are usually used for a battery replacement. So, for a one off, you make do with what's available. If, however, sheet metal work was something that I was going to do regularly, I sure as heck would invest in the appropriate tools, and "cheap" or "expensive" has nothing to do with it. Sometimes brands can be a guide, but I don't find that to be very true any more. Country of origin has little to do with it. I'm only interested in the "quality" or effectiveness of a tool, and the best way that I can explain that is that a quality (hand) tool disappears, it becomes an extension of you that you don't notice. With poor tools you are always aware of the tools, there is always some little gripe that demands attention, either before it is ever used or as you are using it. For instance, I went ahead and bought a set of the screwdrivers that Geo sometimes recommends. Well, sorry Geo , but in my subjective opinion they suck. They are not any better than my old Radio Shack "precicsion" screwdriver set, not as good as my cheap Bestfit set, and even the non-ball bearing Horotec screwdrives blows them out of the water. I bought one of the Horotecs just to see if I could tell the difference. And yes, oh boy could I tell the difference. That's why I'm saving my pennies for a Horotec set. At some point you will probably find me beating on the top of the no-name screwdrivers with the handle of my sledgehammer trying to free some stuck doodad out of a rusted hole. Cheers!
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