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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points

    Lubrication Resources

    Since lubrication technics and material seems to be a frequent returning subject I thought one could collect some links and pdf files on the subject in ONE Place so it is easy to find them. Here comes my contribution in this link Collection. Moebius ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Home (list of lubricants) http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils New (Just a lubrication chart) http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/themes/moebius/extras/pdf/tableEN.pdf Old (Moebius sales program, more detailed information) Moebius Sales program.pdf British Horological Intitute (BHI) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf American Watchmakers - Clockmakers Institute (AWCI, Nice and detailed pictures.) --------------------------------------------------- Train Jewel Lubrication https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/applying-oil-to-train-jewels/ Cap Jewel https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/cap-jewel-preparation/ Pallet Fork https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/lubrication/
  2. 4 points
    The old iron disease has got me in a death grip. I just can't go past a nice old machine and leave well enough alone. Anyway, great fun and lots of new projects added to the list to spruce these up. I was out of the house at 5:30 last weekend on a mission, got a Levin lathe, Hauser pivot polisher and a baby Jones Shipman cylindrical grinder. Some need a bit of work and cleaning, but most of the major bits are there. Snagged a nice 10mm Levin, don't really need another lathe, but this thing was so nicely accessorized I couldn't pass it up. Two Variable speed Levin drives, spindle and accessories, coolant, collect closer, tons of collets, 4 jaw, 3 jaw, faceplate, steady, milling attachment, turret tailstock, 2nd op double crosslide and the pièce de résistance, the drilling tailstock. This has its own drive and fine adjustment in two planes so you can perfectly centre it to the lathe's spindle. Its also got the threading attachment but no gears. The power pack is mess, as is the motor. Insulation in and out of the motor has crumbled, something shorted. I think I will scrap it and use a new 3Pp motor and vfd, but bury the vfd in the OEM control and use all the OEM controls so it look correct. Next is a Hauser pivot burnisher. You put a clock or watch wheel and shaft (takes 8mm collets), it spins it in collet at one end and jacot at the other and floods with with oil while you bring down a spinning carbide wheel to burnish the pivot (bearing journal). There's a very precise depth stop on the carbide wheel so you can control diameter. With an inverter and motor connected as delta this should be easy to get running King of the cool is the grinder. This is a Jones Shipman 520, a table top cylindrical grinder. Beautifully made piece, cross feed is graduated in tenths. It came with internal and external quils and holders, both centres and the workhead as well as an adapter so it'll take 8mm collets. It has flood and both the regular and internal attachments. The external is mounted and internal is on the bench will the quill is on the wood box. There's a busted oil cup I have to make parts for and figure the drive There is a huge overhead drive for this shown in my driveway, I can barely lift it. The drive is upside down, not shown are the uprights the drive mounts on so it sort of hovers over the machine. The idea is the motor is separated from the grinder and you can spin both the spindle and work. Not sure what I'll do here, store the drive and hook up something modern - fractional ho 3p with vfd and small countershaft (grinding spindle and work get drive in opposite directions) Last photo is it sitting on top of my horizontal mill to show how small it is - a cylindrical grinder you can pick up and carry!
  3. 3 points
    This is how I was taught. Movement in movement holder. Add a tiny amount of power. Balance complete attached to balance cock. Balance cock held by tweezers, You need to get the impulse pin between the pallet forks, lower the cock in your tweezers between the forks. If you miss rotate the movement holder around until the impulse pin is between the forks, depending which side the pin is to the fork will depend which way you rotate. Make sure the balance is home before you tighten up the screw.
  4. 3 points

    Can i use lubeta v106 for

    Yes you can. It is for reverse wheels.
  5. 3 points

    Cleaning Solutions, UltraSonic and not

    Elma cleaning machine!!!? NOT . I get me a staking set, set up a diy timegrapher ,lots of useful goodies you can get with that kind of money.
  6. 3 points
    I haven't worked with this ROEDA Watch movement but I Think you have to lift the detent spring to the other side of the pin on the setting lever. I assume there also is somekind of spring too underneath the setting bridge which pushes on the yoke forward.
  7. 3 points

    How to recognize a movement?

    Takes some years to recognize and learn movements . I use rannft a lot. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk There is usually a number or something on the movement so you can identify it. Google the number . Even Ebay could help sometimes. There is other pages that have a lot of movements. Like https://17jewels.info/
  8. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Anyone for tennis? A Timex Snoopy from 1978 got the full treatment last night. This is not the more common Petite version, but a gents "Marlin/Viscount" sized one. The case appears to be the same as some of the other front loaders, but the crystal appears to be an extra high one, to accommodate the novelty hands. Since I don't have anything in this size, there was a lot of polishing needed to get the crystal back from wrecked, to almost factory condition. Needless to say it didn't work when it arrived, but internally it was in pretty good order, so a clean and a few drops of oil had it running well. Snoopy's model no is 3901910478 which is probably from the "Fun Timer" series. I think it would look good on a denim strap. I'll need to see if i can track one down. It seems to be enjoying its new lease of life, unlike the 1968 sunburst champagne dialed Marlin I was looking at, at the same time, which is still struggling to run for more than a few minutes, despite a rust removal session and two full cleaning sessions. That one needs a crown, but I'll post pictures if I have it all ticking nicely.
  9. 3 points

    Balance assembly

    I do all of the above except I mount the cock on a flattened piece of Rodico and stick it down well. Good Luck, RMD
  10. 3 points

    first rebuild

    As amazing as WRT is, the limited time for editing is IMO very, very annoying! I think we should be allowed to edit our posts for at least a week so that we can update and add info as we go. As it is now, we must basically scroll through the entire thread for new posts from the OP to find any additions or updates. Well, JM2C!
  11. 3 points

    Balance assembly

    I turn the boot by 90 degrees, loosen stud screw, lay the cock on its back ,balance side up, on cardboard. *** Insert a needle pin through the cock screw hole to secure the cock on cardboard*** . Lower the complete balance to drop balance pivot into the jewel hole, get the HS inside regulator pins and the stud in the holder hole.
  12. 3 points

    Complex display case back

    UPDATE Excellent idea from@jdm Nylon beveled cast filed at spoke levels: Pressed case back And crystal was out without struggle Thank you very much [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 3 points

    first rebuild

    That spring is a "yoke spring" also known as a "return bar spring". It presses on the yoke/return bar. Make sure you get the yoke in place first, then the yoke spring, and finally place a bit of grease between the spring and the yoke where they meet. Do not grease before the spring is in place. Also, you must assemble the winding pinion, sliding pinion (also known as the clutch), and stem before you assemble the yoke and the yoke spring. Here are some pictures that you might find useful: OMEGA cal. 601 VOSTOK cal. 2409 AS cal. 1203
  14. 2 points
    Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Disassembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part separately. Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Assembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the assembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. The following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled on the movement. The Unitas calibre 6325 is very similar to the Unitas calibre 6498 which is the course movement on watchrepairlessons.com. Unfortunately, due to its increasing popularity, the Unitas calibre 6498 is becoming more and more expensive, although there are inexpensive Chinese clones. So, in my opinion, Unitas calibre 6325 is an excellent and inexpensive option for the course. As a matter of fact, there is a version of the Unitas calibre 6325 having a bridge configuration that looks to be identical to the Unitas calibre 6498. You’ll find plenty of watches housing the Unitas calibre 6325 on eBay. Unitas Calibre 6325 links: bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Unitas 6325 - mtr-Ranfft Unitas 6325 - 17jewels.info „Wehrmachtswerk“; Unitas 6325 - Junghans Vintage
  15. 2 points

    Chinese Timegraphers

    I have a Witschi Chronoscope S1 (1st gen, no touch screen), with automatic mic I bought new about 12 years ago. Before that I used a B200 with Gradoscope for amplitude for years. I needed to print out the tidy little sheets with timing in 6 positions for a big client so there went 7000 of the best bucks I ever spent on tools (and I have literally tons). Would have about 10,000 cycles on it at an average of 3 per day which is pretty conservative, quite likely more like 20k. It's industrial gear for people who make money with it. They rarely come up secondhand because they rarely break and folks just use them and use them. I'd hate to have to go back to something less. But obviously it's way overkill for someone who works on watches for fun. Unless they have the cash and enjoy top level gear (I know a couple of collectors who have Witchis). The new Chinese stuff is great, and it's about time. Before it was available a serious collector or watchmaking enthusiast had to mess with computer programs and all the hassles of interfacing the watch to that, or dig up an old paper tape machine which still command more than a weishi if functional.
  16. 2 points


    cheers weasol and andy. Finally 10 weeks and 11 watches later i have finally removed and refitted the balance cock. And it works. Small steps i know. but means a lot to me. thanks everyone who has answered my some times simple questions. cheers gary
  17. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    One of my occasional forays into Chinese-made watches, this 34.65mm 1970s BaoXuan with a Zhongshan SN-2 movement which came with various jewel counts, ranging from nine to this “up-graded” one with 17. Bit of fun, being quite sparkly with its red and gold accents, and even in their day I believe these watches weren’t aimed at anything like the top end of the home market. Produced by the Jie Yang Watch Factory and absolutely not the world’s prettiest movement but described as “robust” and “reliable”. Equally unattractive is the cheapo bracelet which accompanied it, soon to be changed for a decent leather job. Regards.
  18. 2 points
    I have totaly missed this post but lets give it a go. Your escape wheel looks dirty but it isn't causing the pattern you see on your timegraph, except from the beat error the pattern looks much like a "sticky hairspring" the phenoma can come from oil or magnetization of the hairspring or a bad end curve on the hairspring. A bad pinion on the escape wheel should show a more slalom like pattern with almost equal up and down humps since it is oscillating. Here you can see a similar but in beat pattern and a quick fix since this time it was caused by old oil. Hope this takes you a bit further.
  19. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    That's half the fun of this game. Saving them from ending up as landfill is actually very rewarding. I'm typing this while wearing the Snoopy from the other day, 'cos I took off the one above. It is still going great, but one of the strap pins is the wrong size, and I didn't want the strap to come off while I'm strolling about. I'll fix that later. I've taken a bit of a shine to Snoopy. Great fun, and surprisingly accurate considering its unknown service history. I've got much "posher" and dressier watches (not all of my stuff is from the 404 club), but the tennis playing beagle is turning in to a bit of a favorite.
  20. 2 points
    Ok, I need technician help. I assembled the movement and there are two small problems:First: when I stop the chrono the minute chrono counter still works. Where I should find cause of it? I think that the lever I marked on the photo is the minute brake and maybe there is too much cleareance beetwen it and minute wheel? Am I right?Second: When chrono works balance amplitude is ok but if I stop the chrono, balance amplitude is fallen. I thinh there is too much friction somewhere. Maybe I must oil the plate which I marked on the photo above? This plate drag the clutch down and maybe too it's stops the balance ? Update:I was thinking all night long and couldn't sleep well. I analyzed what could cause problems I had described above. Disassembled the chrono bridge one more time and I found that blocking lever for minute recording wheel was slighty bented. With my heart on my mouth I have started to straighten the lever and voila success. I take a look of the second's chrono wheel and clutch. Small amount of oil goes in the place I suppose have to much friction. And as result is good working movement, zeroing and stoping chrono. Now it's time for tests before dial and hands go on their place. One more thing - there is no screw on the pawl winding wheel. I found screw but it's head was too small. I made small washer from the razor blade. Maybe it;s don't look great but it's work well. If you someone have this screw please let me know. VID_20190809_170740_Trim.mp4 Balance amplitude looks very well I hope the end of project is soon...
  21. 2 points

    Cleaning balance complete

    Ronsonol lighter fluid is way better then One Dip. I just got better results. The lighter fluid is so friendly to watch parts. You can leave the parts to be cleaned in it for days, just make sure you have a screw on lid for the jar as it evaporates very quick. After cleaning I would take out the part place it on clean tissue, hold with tweezers and use my blower to remove any residue.
  22. 2 points
    Well... It may be true that the variations may be within tolerance for most horological applications, but it depends heavily on what device you're using and how it allocates processing time. There IS an undeniable fluctuation, even if it's by a fraction of a millisecond on a good device. At least at the time I researched this and compared a dedicated timing machine and PC based software to an app on a phone, it gave conflicting results and the general consensus was that the technology was a decent indicator, but not precise enough to beat the other options. I mentioned it mainly as a trivial addition to the knowledge base since it may come in handy sometime. I didn't do it to rain on anyone's picnic.
  23. 2 points
    The way I was taught (by trained watchmakers, but I myself am not qualified) was in line with what you are describing. In detail; 1. set the pallet fork against the left-hand banking pin. This ensures that the impulse jewel enters the fork. 2. introduce the balance assembly with the balance cock at least 90 degrees anticlockwise of its final position 3. seat the lower balance pivot without disturbing the pallet fork 4. rotate the balance cock clockwise (or the movement anticlockwise, whilst holding the cock still) into its final position, and rest gently on top of the balance wheel 5. locate the upper pivot in the jewel. The balance begins to swing 6. Drop the screw in. Hold the cock steady with a piece of pegwood or a toothpick and slowly tighten the screw. 7. If the balance stops swinging, immediately back off the screw. I guess you could also reverse the directions described in steps 1 to 4. At no stage are you coiling or uncoiling the hairspring.
  24. 2 points

    Can i use lubeta v106 for

    I had a bottle of Lubeta V106 . Can't say i use it a lot. So when i open the bottle it was dry. Had closed as hard as i could . My experience say 9010 diluted in naptha is as good as Lubeta V106. If you don't use it every day. It's evoporates very fast so gets thicker as times go by.
  25. 2 points

    My first Contribution - Heuer

    Hello All, this is my first contribution to this thread. I have been doing the lessons for sometime and thought that it is time I meet some of you! 1972 Heuer "Viceroy" Autavia fitted with a NOS Corfam band vintage Heuer buckle.
  26. 2 points
    I can,t remember if stud holdef is mobile or fixed on this. Small damage or fault at escape teeth requiring high magnification, may have gone undetected.
  27. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    ......and here by, ahem, popular demand, are some multi-jewelled pin-levers, excluding the usual suspects of BFG, EB and Ronda, as well as any with less than 17 jewels. Each movement is preceded by the watch wherein it lurks and the images can be expanded for anyone interested. Not sure how to text - photo - text, so in order of appearance they are: Lorsa 655G.3, Lorsa 652, Lorsa 651, Brac 117, Brac 2002, Brac 118, Brac 903, 17j Ebosa 65, 21j Ebosa 65, 21j Oberon, 17j Oberon. Regards. EDIT. Image No.3 should have been at the top and image No.4 should be in third place. The joys of being tech-unsavvy.
  28. 2 points

    Can i use lubeta v106 for

    Fixodrop retains the oil in. Yes that is correct, it is very expensive, my personal opinion is it is not worth the money.
  29. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Its more than a bit different, it IS different! I've not not seen a jeweled pin levers besides the widely available Baumgartner and Bettlach calibers. I like your post...thanks. J
  30. 2 points

    Alan McL

    I suggest you remove the hands and see how it goes, if it still stops, remove the movement from the case and remove the dial and test. if it stops, let all the power down, remove balance and pallets, just give it a little power, see if the train runs free if so reassemble and try. If it doesn't then you need to look at the wheels in turn and check teeth pivots and pinions and jewel holes. If all fails let me know.
  31. 2 points

    first rebuild

    Here is Marks complete reply. Hi, no i'm sorry, this is not something I am willing to make unlimited. However, I have changed regular "Member"'s to be able to edit within 1 hour - currently only 799 out of 5700 members have contributed more than 10 posts in order to become upgraded to "Member" from "New Member", sad isn't it! "New Members" are locked in at 10 minutes. "New Members" are automatically upgraded after 10 posts. "Moderators" have unlimited time.
  32. 2 points
    I don’t see any sign of any oil or grease. It just might be its hard to set because of lack of lube. One other thing, check you have screwed in the correct length screws, if you have put in the wrong screw it could be fouling the setting lever. Have you oiled the cannon pinion? if not you might strip the teeth of the wheels when it comes to setting the hands.
  33. 2 points
    Hey guys, just a short update. Thanks to rduckwor I was able to find a great paint and painted the watch bezel under the microscope. I am very pleased with the result, it was pretty timeconsuming though... took me about 4 hours. Would definitly do it again and also recommend it to others if you feel confident in doing this kind of work. By the way rduckwor send me a message with your PayPal email, your idea of emanel paint really helped me a lot and I would like to say thanks in some way. If there are any questions just ask me anything. I am happy to help.
  34. 2 points

    How to recognize a movement?

    As Tmuir says look for the logos usually under the balance along with the calibre number for example:- as 1712-2 as being the brand 1712-2 the calibre, You will require both numbers to be able to order parts, I have enclosed two PDFs of the bestfit books, Have a browse through them the information will be useful when you start your course. In one of them there is a couple of pages of makers logos. bestfit_part1_(1).pdf bestfit_part2_(1).pdf
  35. 2 points

    How to recognize a movement?

    Even without a picture, Google the designation given by the watch manufacturer, you will land on some forum to known everything about it.
  36. 2 points

    Where's the Click?

    Well done.
  37. 2 points

    Where's the Click?

    Thanks, jdrichard. That led me to the click. The first photo shows the click which disappears in the second photo as the watch is wound.
  38. 2 points

    Main barrel identification!

    There you have it, FHF 175, Cousins has all the barrel parts. If you wonder, the index markings were for timing at the factory, before the timegrapher was invented or universally adopted.
  39. 2 points

    Destroying a Hairspring

    Yups the pictures just shows how it is fastened. Since the topic been handled before I didn't post more. Here is the link to the previous post..
  40. 2 points

    first rebuild

    The spring is the wrong way round. That shape of spring is known as a shepherd’s crook. VWatchie has put up some very good clear photos for you so you can see. His first one of the three is for your movement.
  41. 2 points

    first rebuild

    Thank you for explaining how this part of the keyless works operates! However, the terminology is a constant source of confusion in our trade. The part that you name a crown wheel is indeed a winding pinion and it drives the crown wheel mounted on the barrel bridge.
  42. 1 point

    Watch Makes Scrapping Sound Crown Up

    Old piece, general wear out.
  43. 1 point

    KIF 6-1 Shock spring - help needed

    Shock spring KIF 6-1 has gone awal after coming loose when servicing Bulova Cal 5BD. This is the smallest KIF Ultraflex (overall length is 1.60mm) and is indicated as obsolete at Cousins (my normal source), and no luck with web search. Can anyone help with another supplier name or spare. At least I now have a very clean workbench and floor
  44. 1 point

    Main spring slipps

    This movement is a bumper automatic. The main spring is supposed to slip, some are attached to a break spring, the break spring should slip with the mainspring. Old autos are sometimes fitted with an extra short piece of spring which is much stronger than the normal spring that fits inside the barrel, that acts as a break, the normal auto spring is attached to that. You shouldn’t be able to wind up an automatic. Here is a photo of a modern auto mainspring.
  45. 1 point

    Watch of Today

    Thanks, I'm boring when it comes to leather straps and only like black and brown but this one I'd actually consider a dark blue one as the face is dark blue, hard to tell in this pic though. This is the replacement strap it came with and it's well padded and comfy and I love the pattern.
  46. 1 point
    ETA 955 Service Walkthrough "The Workhorse of Highend Quartz" The ETA 955 and 956 Quartz Movements are the most commonly found movement in high-end quartz watches with three hands and a date feature. You will find them in Omega, Tag, and many other brands on the market. For this walkthrough I will be using an 955.412 Movement as my example; but the 956 is so similar to the 955, that this walkthrough will suffice for both. Please note that the numbers after the decimal place only relates to the factory in which the movement was made, so yours could read 955.112, or another factory number ... regardless, the parts are identical and interchangeable. As with all movements, quartz or mechanical, they have a service interval that should be adhered to for longevity of the movement. With quartz movements when the lubrication becomes dried out, or the movement becomes dirty, they will draw more and more current from the battery in order to maintain accurate time keeping. The ETA 955/6, when in optimum condition should draw around 800nA ~ 1.5uA, if the movement is drawing more power than this, a service is required. If a service is not performed, the battery life with decrease markedly, and can go as far as drawing more power from the battery than it was designed for, and damage the battery and cause it to leak and corrode your valuable time piece. Service Manual for the 955/6 Movement CT_956412_FDE_493024_06.pdf.PDF Disassembly Remove the two Date Wheel Keepers. I always start with the one holding the Date Jumper Spring in place. Sometimes the Date Jumper Spring can ping out of place, so be careful when removing the keeper plate above it. Here is a reference photo in case it moves before you see how it's properly seated. Next remove the Keepers and Date Wheel. Then remove the Date Jumper Spring, Motion and Calendar Work. This will leave only the Keyless Work; remove the Yoke and the Sliding Pinion only. We need to flip the movement over, and disassemble the IC Board before we can remove the rest of the Keyless Work. With the movement flipped over, remove the 3 screws holding the Coil Protector. Note for re-assembly the Gold Screw in the centre. Now that the Coil Protector is removed, GREAT care must be taken not to damage the exposed fine windings of the Coil. Then to remove the IC Board, simply remove the 2 remaining screws that hold it. Do this slowly and carefully, as you do not want to slip off the screw and damage this delicate circuit. The same level of care needs to be taken when removing the IC Board from the Main Plate. Take your time and carefully lift it off and store it immediately out of harms way. Next remove the black Insulator Block, and Battery Insulator. This will expose the Setting Lever Spring Clip, which will enable you to remove the rest of the Keyless Work. To remove the Setting Lever Spring Clip, place both points of your tweezers on the locations where I've placed the stars and gently push down on the spring. Then with a piece of Pegwood, push the spring in the direction of the arrow until it moves to the larger opening slot. This will now allow the Setting Lever to be removed, along with the rest of the Keyless Work. Next remove the Stop Lever and Switch, and remove the one screw holding the Train Bridge in place. Then carefully remove the Gear Train and the Rotor. The movement is now completely stripped and ready for inspection and cleaning. There are some parts that you do not place in the parts cleaner, they are as follows: Date Ring Rotor IC Board The rest should be demagnetized prior to cleaning to avoid any metal particles in your cleaning solution from sticking to your parts. When cleaning I also including the Insulator Block, and Battery Insulator in the basket, normal watch cleaning solutions do not harm these items and it is essential they are completely clean to provide the best insulation possible. The Rotor should be cleaned by use of Rodico. As you can see from the picture below, it's surprising the dirt and old oil this will remove ... and it is sufficient cleaning for the Rotor. I hope this has been a help to you, and I will post the assembly procedure later today, if time permits.
  47. 1 point

    Hello from Shanghai

    Hi jason and welcome to WRT forum.
  48. 1 point

    Balance assembly

    True Mark dose make it look easy, has mastered it. One advantage of pining down the cock, is the cardboard, thence, nearly the whole bench is to move along with the cock for a mishap. Large cardboard preferably taped onto the bench. Best wishes
  49. 1 point

    Complex display case back

    You’re welcome. To make your life easier you can modify a die of the rimmed type, then order a new set. They are very cheap on AliX, etc.
  50. 1 point

    Hi there!

    Hi and welcome to the happy factory.
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