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  1. 3 points
    Update - resolved. After taking OldHippy's advice and removing the balance and pallet fork gave it a few turns - gears spun up but were reluctant to restart without encouragement. On closer inspection, there was a tiny strand of fabric wrapped around the escape wheel centre shaft. You can only imagine me elation when I grabbed the strand with tweezers and the gears spun into life. One happy chap.
  2. 3 points
    Yes - but you really need a roller rest and a lathe with index holes in the pulley wheel so you can turn accurately through 90 degrees
  3. 2 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    THAT is stunning. A genuine Voslex Amphibimariner, ultra rare status on the eBay 'rare' scale.
  4. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    MAIN SPRING BOUND :

    The click on a 72 is next to the column wheel, there's a pin sticking up through the bridge that you can hold to let down the power.
  5. 2 points
    Older ladies watches are not the easiest to work on. I don't like to work on them and when I do its usually a favor for someones heirloom. The pivots are really fine and the mainsprings are really weak (by design) so if the mainspring gets 'set' and doesn't provide much power the watch wont run well. My action plan is usually remove power from the spring and remove/check/clean mainspring and the barrel. Next remove/check/clean the balance jewels (Assuming Incabloc or similar) and just dunk the whole thing in the cleaning solution. Dry off properly and use a puffer to get any bits off. You might need to remove some of the keyless parts to access the jewels for oiling. put it together. If it works then good. If it doesn't then that's it.. too bad. If there is any trace of moisture don't even bother. Even a smidgen of rust on the pivots is enough to make it run poorly. And most ladies watches of the 50-60s had abysmal water protection. Anilv
  6. 2 points
    Don't know to exact screw size but this one is not critical just purchase a selection screws available from most material houses. Some hairspring studs have a groove in them to aid alignment so the screw will have to be tapered to fit.
  7. 2 points
    FLwatchguy73

    Watch of Today

    Very true @yankeedog. I have an Elgin pocket watch from 1869. Elgin was founded as the National Watch Company in 1867. The dial is pre Elgin. It's a low serial number, under 38,000 if memory serves. It was a wreck when I got it. Bad balance, missing both banking pins, no hour wheel, no dial, no hands and naturally, no case. I was able to source all the missing parts minus one banking pin. I had a sliver swing out case with a unique inlaid grizzly bear walking along train tracks that had a broken winding stem. I felt that was the proper case for it. Both had character and told a story. It runs strong and doesn't miss a beat. No one irl but me knows the story behind the watch and the time and effort involved. It is a source of inner pride as I'm sure most of us feel when we resurrect and restore a watch in poor condition.
  8. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Hi from SC!

    SC like South Carolina?
  9. 2 points
    Thank you Mark. I love this site and helping out. It keeps me sane.
  10. 2 points
    AdamC

    www.oldswisswatches.com

    Thanks for the tip off. I’ve seen them a few times in web searches for parts. However, I wasn’t aware they were an Indian site. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    I have a jewel hole gauge and a pivot gauge similar to these: The problem is that these are VERY expensive tools. You can also measure the pivot using a micrometer. You will need a jewel with a hole slightly larger than the pivot. Of course you also need to know the measurement of the outside diameter of the jewel in order to make sure it can be fit into the plate or chaton. You may need to ream the hole to a larger size. You will need a jeweling set for reaming and pushing in the new jewel. Are you certain that the jewel is friction fit??
  12. 1 point
    Got this in an auction lot along with two Fossil and a Michael Kors. Total for all four watches was under $30. As a senior on a limited budget who will likely never own a real Rolex or Breitling, I'm very pleased I snagged this beauty.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    No aerobic class. Just regular university classes. Around 20 minutes of walking in total to and from classes every Monday to Thursday. Especially sedentary Friday to Sunday. Watch worn all day every day, set down at night because I dislike solid objects of any kind in my sleeping area. 50 year old 2824 running in full health at 310 amplitude and 4 seconds positional delta serviced by yours truly. Had not hand wound it for the half year that I've worn it and always found it to be fully wound whenever I do the spring slip check except for in the mornings. Watch never stopped. Hand winding unnecessary and aerobics class completely unnecessary.
  15. 1 point
    yankeedog

    slipping when winding up

    Forgive me if my terminology is off..slipping could only be but so many things.provided all your gear teeth are good and properly engaged.it could be your mainspring. Even if it is broken the watch could run.I have seen it happen friction and pressure are often enough to hold the spring in place up the a certain amount of tension..and then slipping occurs. You could also have a cracked barrel. Inspection is in order
  16. 1 point
    Colditz

    ETA Calibre 2472 Service Walkthrough

    Hi Vwatchie I am afraid I have not yet had the opportunity to look yet. We have had some really good news and I am about to be a grandfather for the fourth time so lots of things going on in the home preparing for the new arrival at our abode and my daughters. Soon as I get a day clear I will be investigating and taking pictures. Thank you for your interest and the video showing the speed of date change.
  17. 1 point
    Seiko listed a barrell complete available for the 613 (206.613), but it has been unavailable since decades probably. Both 401.615 and 401.616 are listed compatible, and know to work well. https://www.thewatchsite.com/21-japanese-watch-discussion-forum/104345-seiko-6139b-mainspring.html Attached the technical sheet. The issue with getting a new original mainspring is now availability cost. For someone, $50 for something of dubious authenticity is objectable https://www.ebay.com/itm/401615-Main-Spring-For-Seiko-Movt-6105-6117-6118-6119-6138-6139-6309-6306-/303388168815 Another source could be the well know Adrian of VTA Australia https://www.vintagetimeaustralia.com So it's normal that people looks for alternatives. Now, the height of 1.01mm (which seems strange as normally sizes are every .05mm) has been given by the OP from a website. But someone else measured (with calipers - ideally you want a micrometer) at 1.05: https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2019/04/05/seiko-6139-6012/ and that is pretty much a GR2534X Eventually he fitted a shorter MS, but he got a shorter power reserve. It could be that my initial suggestion of a GR24571X works well also, but I never tried either one. Finally, when using a new MS no winder is needed, as its transferred straight from washer to barrel. 6139b.pdf
  18. 1 point
    jdm

    Shaping a ruby pallet stone

    I'm not sure how the OP thinks he can do this, but if with the stone in the fork, assuming it would be even possible, then the stone will become too short and not have the right lock and draw. Faulty stones should be replaced.
  19. 1 point
    Hi Once again Old Hippy is on the ball as my own diagnosis would be exactly as quoted follow that and all will be well, Small movements are delicate and therefore take your time. The smallest I worked on was a ball watch the size of a marble with a broken staff, replaced with a Balance comp, cleaning and reassembling took a while . Take your time and enjoy.
  20. 1 point
    AdamC

    Movement Identification

    Thanks for the advice rogart63. Unfortunately I don't have lathe skills yet, though something I'm interested in learning at some point.
  21. 1 point
    Happened to be given a springbar tool for drilled lugs to try out and review, have been chatting with the maker and having suggested the possible addition of fork tools for standard bracelet lugs also, (like the expensive Bergeon tool), he's going to look into incorporating that. Link to review here for those interested. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSutgRceWIk&t=35s
  22. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Teaching Class

    You mean Dormans garage.
  23. 1 point
    Is this what you need.
  24. 1 point
    So the first Russian arrived today. I love the dial. No brand name anywhere, but it has a 2209 movement which was used under no less than 5 Russian company banners. Inside the movement is clean and it winds, sets runs great. It needed a slight adjustment to the timing, but it's correct now. I'm going to clean up the Crystal on Monday and see about ordering a proper strap for it.
  25. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Bobmail

    The answer is that it should. All of the seiko automatics of that type have the same dial diameter. Just about any dial from any 7005 movement should interchange with another. I believe the diameter is 28.5mm
  26. 1 point
    watchguy74

    Before and after

    On burgandy lizard strap. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    nichod

    Happy Thanksgiving

    Happy Thanksgiving to you and all! It's a great time for childhood memories of great feasts of freshly shot ducks and geese all baked to perfection along with the store bought turkey, pumpkin pie, candied yams, oyster dressing, oh my. What's left of my family will gather this weekend so the wife and I plan a smaller dinner this evening. It will still be good. Just her and I and the cats. One cat (the part British Short-hair) thinks he is a dog so we're a well rounded family down here in the woods. Enjoy!
  28. 1 point
    Rosco1

    Crystal press advise needed

    Sorry to hear about your disaster, maybe you could help me avoid the same result. As a nubee I'll purchase a crystal press in the near future. Can you please describe the technique for using it for me?
  29. 1 point
    vinn3

    Spaceview yellow dot crystal

    i think that is a acrylic. vin
  30. 1 point
    nickelsilver

    Peerless 8mm lathe primer info?

    Mobile DTE series of oils are "hydraulic" oils that are commonly used also in machine spindles. Here I buy from Motorex, their Correx HLP line, which is great for machine spindles, is "hydraulic", and specced for use in hydraulic systems and plain and rolling bearings. I don't know the full story on Mobil 1 going abrasive, it was about 20 years ago; I did look it up back then but can't find anything now. The fact that the fellow re-serviced a number of tower clocks made it seem pretty legit, but in poking around I see that a number of clockmakers recommend it these days. I think the issue in the clocks is the very slow moving components, and long interval between cleanings. In a lathe spindle I doubt there would be any issue at all.
  31. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    Nothing wrong with assembling a watch from parts. After all they were all once parts of a whole .far better they are assembled into a functional watch.
  32. 1 point
    I tend to shy away from pocket watches, but for some strange reason, this one appealed. As a result, I am another couple of quid closer to the poor house. Suspicious lack of hairspring, and no hands, but If nothing else it will make a great ornament... who am I kidding its going to get fixed if I can cobble together the bits. There does appear to be a fairly obvious dirt issue too, but I'll wait to see what shows up in the post and let you all know. Can anyone tell me what the non Latin script inscription says?
  33. 1 point
    The Bellmatic arrived today and it looks and runs great. It's clean and rings perfectly. I had trouble setting the day/date function at first.. But the Google of everything solved that problem. The only hiccup is the bracelet. Like @ro63rto said, it's a replacement. Someone grafted an old Seiko quartz clasp that was once gold but someone scrubbed the plating off. I'm on the hunt for a proper Seiko coffin link bracelet now.
  34. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    I have a pro diver I rescued from a thrift shop. It required a new movement and crystal. I considered the investment worthwhile. It's actually a decent watch which only lacks a screw down crown. Be careful when cleaning that dial! The letters are not glued on well..I now own an. IN C A. The daily watch today is what I believe to be a piquette antichoc..the previous owner obliterated the logos. It is running a lorsa p72a. Be careful when working on these. The hair springs are delicate. Don't let the balance wheel dangle. You WILL mangle the hairspring..Dont ask me how I know.
  35. 1 point
    clockboy

    Hi from SC!

    Hi Jason, enjoy he forum.
  36. 1 point
    Yes we already have an auto-welcome for each new user and we actually encourage people to introduce themselves in that welcome message. So it's by design Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  37. 1 point
    gary17

    Hairspring not right

    Thanks Guess I need another donor then. That's a bit above my ability. What's the chance of them both being bent. Doh.
  38. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Teaching Class

    NickleSilver and OH, thanks for the feedback. I am planning on a lesson plan as follows: - What is a balance staff - Removing and keeping the old staff - Tools needed to cut a staff - Gravers and Sharpening - Basics in cutting - Measurements and old staff - Friction fit or Rivet - Blued Steel and (perhaps tempering) - Selecting and prepping the blued steel - Phase 1 - Cutting the Balance Surface - Phase 2- Cutting up to the rivet or balance edge (friction fit) and fitting the balance. - Phase 3 - Cutting the HS Collet surface and fitting the HS - Phase 4 - Cutting the upper Pivot and finishing the upper pivot. - Phase 5 - Cutting the rolled table surface (rough cut) - Phase 6 - Cutting off the staff and flipping around in Lathe - Phase 7 - Finishing the RT side and fitting the RT to its friction stop point - Phase 8 - Finishing the Lower Pivot - Phase 9 - Staking in the Balance and Riveting(as needed) - Phase 10 - Staking on the RT - Phase 11 - Jacot Tool and Pivot polishing and sizing the balance staff. - Phase 12 - pressing on the HS I do plan to spend some time on polishing the pivots while the staff is still on the lathe. As well, I plan on showing how you use the old balance staff to measure the cuts. I will also show the use of the Jewelled Gauge to measure the pivots and you bring down the size and how to leave a little extra for sizing with the Jacot. I also have a set of vintage pin gauges that I will use to measure the pivot size on the movement lower and upper jewels. Thoughts?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  39. 1 point
    There's no tech guide for these old calibers, just a part list if you're lucky. You might find a guide for an A. Schild alarm movement, should help a little. Pretty much a normal watch. You need to lubricate the alarm escapement with something heavy like 8300. All moving parts in the alarm system need a bit of lubrication, when in doubt use 9020 or HP1000, and too little is better than too much. Take pics, there are a lot of parts on the dial side. As I recall the set lever and bridge and winding parts are either the same or mirror image and easy enough.
  40. 1 point
    SSH

    Peerless 8mm lathe primer info?

    Ha! Thanks for the tip vin. I Didn't mention that my real job is occupational safety. JD, thanks for the info on the jackshafts. I don't think torque will be a problem with my motor. I def have enough to slip the belt under most circumstances. Have a good weekend all!span widget
  41. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Pallet Warmer Project

    Great job mark. You and OH are my mentors. Going the the Ottawa Canada Clock and Watch Horological Wine and Cheese tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  42. 1 point
    WatchMaker

    Trench Movement Identification

    Check out 'Mystery Movement 1' at https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movements.php. The layout and bridge shapes look the same!
  43. 1 point
    carlos123

    Glass Polishing

    Success! Oil diamond paste landed, had a session on the Dremel with felt pad, took a while but managed to get the scratches out, to leave a light blemish that can just be seen at the wrong angle. I was going to do a bit more to flatten the glass further but didn’t want to compromise the glass. Time to practice some more [emoji846] Thanks all! Carl Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 1 point
    I do grind down the back side of pallet stones sometimes, when they are bottomed out in the fork and still need to go in more. You see this on really old stuff, high end, where there was a matter of pride in not having a gap between the bottom of the slot and jewel; also when replacing a jewel sometimes. On rare occasions it's necessary to regrind the impulse face to change the angle, again often when changing a jewel. The Levin book Practical Benchwork for Horologists has some good information on how and when to reshape an impulse face. I adjust the escapement, either moving the pallet stones, the bankings, or both, on I think probably 1/3 of the watches I do- some weeks it seems like I do pretty much every watch. I understand it seems daunting to the uninitiated, but it really is a necessary task on many watches. I will dig through my books and see if I can find a concise explanation of the steps for checking. Actually moving the stones is another issue, and here having certain tools available makes it much easier, but way back in school we just had simple pallet warmers and an alcohol lamp and a strong loupe.
  45. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Keeping with the Timex Dundee theme a 1978 Marlin(?) (24560 02578). This was a junk lot watch. I could see in the ebay advert that the date ring was missing, and as I discovered when I opened it, so too was the movement holder, but fortunately I had both in my stash. Here it is just prior to putting the lid back on, after cleaning and servicing. The crystal was heavily scratched with some paint marks for good measure. Advertised as not running, how could I resist? It looked a perfect candidate for the 404 club. This was the starting point. The dial and hands look fine, but the rest was a bit of a mess.
  46. 1 point
    rogart63

    Citizen 7803A Cosmotron Beat Error?

    I usually put the crown to the metal part on the Timegrapher. i don't know what kind of TG you have. So can't say how to put the watch. But even if it's a plastic case or a well enclosed case it works fine to put the crown to the metal which holds the case. 7,6 beat error sounds a lot. 7803A isn't that a electronic movement with balance?
  47. 1 point
    praezis

    Best Stock for Making Balance Staff

    Thank you, I will surely try it. Why I prefer the method that I mentioned above (water hardened, tempered to light blue stock): easy cutting on the lathe, has just the right strength and most of all: no danger to get a distorted staff after quenching - a slight bend can make hours of work worthless. Frank
  48. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Screwdriver Sharpening

    This should put your mind at rest. Click on this link. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/sdriver/sdriver.html
  49. 1 point
    Bimroy

    Watch of Today

    A basket case I resurrected earlier this year. Lots of aftermarket parts to put it into the aviation theme. I've got three of these, two originals and this one.
  50. 1 point
    The problem with that particular video is it's showing the final product of hours of work. Then is your vibrating tool is missing the base? I wonder if it came this way? If you look at the video there's a a heavy base with a lever that you push to get the thing to rotate. Then there is a major problem with using the tool today the supply of hairsprings. August 2007 the British horological journal has a article "Anthony Randall FBHI gives a brief history of Balance Springs". So the article gives a history talks about hairsprings and explains briefly about the CGS numbering system. The other reason for the article is there are no more generic hairsprings being produced by the Swiss. So in the early days multiple companies producing generic hairsprings purchased by watch manufacturers who vibrated them for their own watches. So today there's only one swiss hairspring company producing hairsprings for specific calibers only no more generic Springs. Or the watch companies themselves produce their own Springs for their specific watches. Then to understand hairspring vibrating start to finish I have a link below to an article written by a student in a school learning watch repair. the amusing aspect of the article written 2003 is the remark made about endless supply of hairsprings. in the same school today I can't quite remember the details but I think they only do one balance and very limited number Springs to learn with or they just don't do it. Conceivably at some point in time there will be no more vibrating Springs taught at the schools as a have nothing to vibrate. http://www.tp178.com/jd/watch-school/6/article.html Then a must-have book for hairspring vibrating as it explains in detail about the CGS numbering system how you use it to pick your hairspring vibrating precision timing all those helpful things to make use your tool. Watch Adjustment by Hans Jendritzki ISBN-10: 2883800294 ISBN-13: 9782883800298 Format Hardcover Author Hans Jendritzki Publisher Antoine Simonin, 2006 Pages 107
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