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Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor.

I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!

So I just wanted to say "thank you" again. The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.

You can use bombé jewels with regular pivots if you put the convex surface facing the shoulder. You see it on (primarily older) high end pieces, particularly nearer to and including the escapement.

My guess, a pin pallet, BFG? We'll see.

@Randy55 welcome, here are some screwdrivers I can highly recommend, not the cheapest out there, but I prefer them to my Bergeon ones.: And for tweezers I can't recommend highly enough the CousinsUK own brand titanium (link here), I even prefer them to the Dumont tweezers I have, here is my write up: Other piece of advice would be to 'cut to the chase' and get a trinocular microscope on a boom arm, I tried all kinds of loupes and visors etc, but now do 90% of my work on the scope.

Hello and welcome from Leeds.

Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win!

Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.

Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy

Hi All, I thought I'd draw a diagram to help me understand the motion works for an eta 6497 so I thought I'd share it here in case anyone else finds it helpful. Any corrections, please let me know! Hope it helps. Stirky.

Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool. The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.

It's pronounced "bombay" like the city. French for bomb is, , bombe, pronounced the same as in English. Bombé, bombe.

I looked up bombè, domed in French. It's pronunciation is bomb, does a bomb (explosive device) get It's name from bombè? I know we're going off subject but it's interesting.

They are for balance wheels only and wheels with similar pivots (B = bombé). You can use flat jewels for balance wheels (not recommended) but no bombé jewels for ordinary wheels.

Oh really, like my Seiko 6139? When I pulled out the crown it had 3 positions, so I assumed one position set the day/date. I'll check more closely when I put it back together. Thanks again!

There’s no doubt that the traditional method works, and works well. It has stood the test of time. It does have a steeper learning curve, but as you say if you do it often enough and gain experience, the method is definitely sound. I feel that the cost of a lab hotplate is money well spent because of the other uses it also has. The following is off topic in terms of bluing but : If you add a Pyrex measuring cup and thermometer you can anneal metals with reliable results. As mentioned above it is handy for working on pallet stone adjustments, either with an escapement meter or a home made brass block with holes to accommodate fork pivots and guard pins, plus a means of holding the fork still. If using the brass block, precision adjustments to the pallet jewels are accomplished by the use of a reticule eyepiece in a microscope. This setup is easily the equal of a Bergeon escapement meter + bergeon heater for the meter, but for the same money you can buy a decent stereomicroscope, a reticule eyepiece and the hotplate, which are capable of doing much more than the escapement meter+heater are. Best Regards, Mark

Here I just got a couple pics that might help. One is without the pin and one I put the pin where I thought it "might" go. Still not sure what is missing from setting parts Actually I didn't think it looks crappy very well decorated movement that looks quite nice We can try to do it by your instruction maybe I'll be able to get it that way, I don't want to put you out.