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  1. 6 points
    arkobugg

    DOXA Searambler 1968 project

    Hello to you all folks, thought I should share this story with you ,,,, Then I finally completed my big project "Doxa Searambler 300T from 1968" which I have been working on from March 11 to June 27 this year, for about 14 weeks. And I have to say very happy, although I have not yet managed to find a good solution on the BoR link. Have been in contact with the Doxa factory via an acquaintance who is AD in Sweden, so let's see what gets there. But anyway, here's the story: Bought this on March 11 in miserable condition, see photo 1. It was pretty messed up after been worn after 50 years of use as a professional dive watch, so all of the marks were gone on the bezel ring, the glass was scratched, really needed a service, see photo 2 and 3. Some had also tried to change the casetube and crown without knowing how to do this. And should rather been doing things they fully master insted. The casetube was inserted with an wrong angel into the case, so the result was that the crown did not enter the movment right. See photo 4. To fix this, the old casetube had to be drilled out / pulled out. This one was not fastend good enought, so I could just pulled it out. If this is done right, they is stuck like hell. .. See photo 4. you can see the red line that shows the correct angle into the case, while the casetube that was mounted befor was incorrectly angeled into the case, see the blue line. A incorrect crown was also inserted, the original crown is 6.92 mm in diameter and 4.60 mm high, stem thread is 0.9 mm. The one sitting here was far too small and is completely wrong compared to the original. The dial was very spotty and had lots of marks after many dives. And that the lume had got the greyish color. See photo 5. So full dismantling was needed, stripping everything, movment out, glass out, bezel ring dismantled from the case, cleaning of all parts. So when everything was cleaned up, the build-up could begin. First the old case tube had to be drilled and pulled out, so it was dismantled, and the new casetube was inserted with a crown. See photo 6. Found a crown that is quite similar in appearance and about the same size. Doxa is known to have very little parts to these olde watch available unfortunately. So finding original casetube with crown seems like a pretty impossible task. See photo 6. Did service work on the movment, ETA 2783, no parts had to be replaced, just a little tightening of canon pinion, because it was a little loose in motion. Painted bezel ring by original colors. See photo 7. When it comes to the dial, I wanted a crisp and fresh dial, so I chose to use an friend of mine who is an specialist in restoring dials, and who is the real magician when it comes to repaint of dials. See for yourself....See photo 8. Lumes on the hands and indexes was put on by me, had to mix ut a certain light cream color lume to match ut the right patina. Also managed to source a glass made according to original spec. which was fitted. Then after about 3 months, all parts were mounted in place, the work was installed, the test round was done with brilliant results. And I could finally take this piece of jewelry on my arm ... See photo 9. Beautiful!!! Go...Go....Switzerland !!!
  2. 4 points
    watchrepair69

    Second project PATO

    Everithing Worked by CNC machine, eta 2825/2, sandwich Dial painting custom, strap hand made, Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1A utilizzando Tapatalk
  3. 4 points
    Those diagrams are of non-capped jewels, which are not to be used for balance wheel pivots. Here is a diagram of what we are talking about: The dome is there to keep the oil in the center with capillary action when brought to contact with end stone. There should not be any shoulders on balance pivots, but a gradual slope. Only surfaces acting as bearing surfaces are around the tip of the pivots. Otherwise there would be too much friction.
  4. 3 points
    I thought you might be interested in this article that appeared on Hackaday https://www.empa.ch/web/s604/liga-watch
  5. 2 points
    jdm

    Mystery Omega

    You are asking for authenticity opinions, now beside that this is the wrong section for that, you really, really have to post pictures if you want meaningful replies.
  6. 2 points
    jdrichard

    Took a Picture of all My Lathes

    I love. I was going to say a Murder of Lathes, because if I get one more my wife will kill me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. 2 points
    wls1971

    Jaeger Car Clock Info needed please.

    This catalogue may help to I.D the clock: http://www.hells-confetti.com/Technical data/Jaeger Instruments/British Jaeger Dashboard Instruments.pdf
  8. 2 points
    thierry

    Easy out for watch screws?

    An easy and cheap way to remove broken screws is to use alum powder. You have to remove all steel parts from the plate with the broken screw and you let it sit in alum powder mixed with water. You have to check it regulary but in about 24h, the steel from the screw will become soft and you will be able to poke it off with a toothpick and clean it very easily. I used this method once for a 1966 Omega watch and got perfect results. Of course, you shouldn't use it on a movement with steel parts still on it as it will dissolve them but plates made of brass will not be affected by this product. Here is the one I used and purchased at a local grocery store: https://www.helloflavour.ca/en-ca/our-brands/club-house/products/herbs-and-spices/spices/alum-powdered
  9. 2 points
    teegee

    Gravers

    Just adding that making carbide gravers yourself is quite easy, from broken drills or endmills etc. There are apparently many types of carbide, and the commercial ones that I have are of a darker color than the homemade ones. In the picture below, the two on the left are commercial, by Eternal tools -- pretty expensive. The rest is home made. They may look rough and crusty, but that's just the non-acting surfaces. The far right one was an experiment (very easy to make), and is actually my go-to graver for hogging hard steel. It is very hard to damage. If you start using carbide gravers, you need to be reasonably adept at using normal gravers, since any mistake will chip the graver or snap the tip right off. You can regrind it of course, but that's more troublesome because of the diamond tooling.
  10. 2 points
    It's an earley Seiko movement. Hence the seiko shoksprings . Not supercommon. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&UTC_233
  11. 2 points
    AlexeiJ1

    Inner ring / dial alignment.

    On this model you have to open the watch. Remove the movement and dial. Press out the glass, then realign the bezel to the movement whilst the movement and dial are in the case. Then repress the glass and bezel in. Annoying I know.
  12. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Finally got my lathe set up!

    Good collets cost a lot for a reason, they're guaranteed to hold a certain tolerance. That's given that they're used in a for all intents and purposes "perfect" spindle. If you can't fit the collets from the same maker in their spindle that's a big warning for me. Willy nilly opening up the spindle to accept the collets seems really sketchy, it should be ground, but if soft enough (another warning) feasibly bored. But there's a key in there, so that has to come out or be erased... I think for many just learning turning such a machine could be ok, but when hunting down microns on serious work you need a darn perfect spindle and near perfect collets. They don't come cheap, even secondhand.
  13. 2 points
    In lieu of someone coming up with the hand you need, or a source to buy from, I've got something that probably fits into your category of an idea! You can pick up generic second hands relatively inexpensively from a source like Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/centre-seconds-by-size; they do the 0.25mm you need. Now whilst it looks like the longest they do is only 15mm note this is from the centre hole to the end; not the entire length. How long is the entire hand? I'm not sure but if I take their scale diagram and do a very simplistic split-the-15mm-into-four I get 3.75mm per quarter. If I then transpose that quarter to the remaining length I can see the entire length will be over the 18.5mm you need: But you require a squared off end ... so you could carefully file to the length and profile you need. Bingo! Ah ... but it's not blue. Well that's now over to your requirements and skills. Painting (e.g. airbrushing) is straightforward or you could look at any of the helpful online resources videos on how to hot blue (stainless) steel.
  14. 1 point
    There are also UV cure epoxies. Examples here.. https://www.epoxies.com/products/uv-curable-illumabond/ Most of these glues can be found on ebay etc.
  15. 1 point
    Have you found the tech sheet for your caliber? They often actually list the cgs. Otherwise there are tables that correspond cgs to ligne size, which would be pretty close. If you need it spot on you'll need to have a selection of springs of known cgs, vibrate one that seems about right, check the diameter, then there's a simple formula to determine the correct cgs. Found one of the tables, it's in French but easy to figure out. If doing the test spring process, the formula is K=K' (D/D') 2 K is the CGS number you're looking for K' is the CGS of the spring you test D is the diameter of spring you need, at the pinning point D' is the diameter of the correctly vibrated test spring at the pinning point. Sorry to the OP Joe and I are hijacking the thread a bit, maybe a mod could move it to a new thread?
  16. 1 point
    vinn3

    Pallet Warmer Project

    in the USA, i remrmber pre TV radio, kids programs, but getting back to the job at hand; is there any thing better than shellac to glue "stones to metal" ? vin
  17. 1 point
    Hi FL, the only thing wrong with that watch is..... It's not mine ! Love it.
  18. 1 point
    arkobugg

    Yema French Ebauche FE Cal. 4611

    Hello Nicksilver!! Tanks a lot, found out, thanks to you guiding...
  19. 1 point
    An old pair of tweezers ground down to fit the holes will do a good job.
  20. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Worn pivots

    Joseph bulova school of watchmaking, unit 4. Shows pictures of various pivot damage.
  21. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Regulator not changing rate

    It could also be wrong hairspring.
  22. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    It lives! The 1/2 Kg strap monster lives. I was sure I must have at least one BG 866 balance fork in the junk pile and sure enough after a bit of a rummage I found one in a very beat up 21 jewel scrap movement. Ignore for the moment the fact that I am clearly an idiot, since I have set the wrong date on it, and listen very carefully, wherever in the world you are, and you can probably hear it tick. It may not be the most refined watch in the collection, but it sure is fun.
  23. 1 point
    I'm not sure if there's a problem here. Some watches can really belt out a "twang twang" , like a tiny banjo getting tuned. Maybe in the vertical positions the change in effect of gravity is enough to permit that. That's a pretty good size movement, wouldn't surprise me.
  24. 1 point
    The beat error is regulated at the collet on the balance staff, I find that a medium to large oiler is ideal depending on the balance, (wristwatch / pocket watch), while the cock is suspended from a balance tack. You need to ascertain the direction of adjustment before removing the balance cock then it's trial and error. For future reference it's handy to eyeball and adjust as near as possible while the movement is stripped as you can physically see the impulse jewel and align it, adjustment must still be made with the cock removed. Addressing the other issue, if you're hearing the noise then chances are something is rubbing or catching when it's side on, have you inspected the jewel holes and pivots for wear and tested for side shake? Overbanking is a possibility also, do you know the amplitude? Also is the variance in beat error between positions or regardless of position?
  25. 1 point
    oldhippy

    clock i got today part 4

    That back plate number is the movements serial, the pendulum should have the same on it, I have never seen a hexagon shape pendulum before on a French clock. Someone has made a mess of bending that crutch to try and set it in beat. The oil sink on the large wheel loos a bit suspect going by the photo. When its all cleaned up movement and case you will have a nice looking clock.
  26. 1 point
    watchweasol

    Tag Heuer link watch!

    Hi done a bit of research, the attached instructions for the ETA 251.262 are the same, should give you an insight. Chronograph eta 251.262 Tag CS,CT 1111.pdf
  27. 1 point
    WatchMaker

    Parennin x 171

    Does this happen once or twice a day ? If once a day then it's probably something to do with the date changing mech not quite running smoothly and the 'drag' causing an issue. If twice a day then put the crown in the time-change position and take a close look at the hour hand as your move it slowly around the dial ... does it sweep cleanly with an equal distance between it and the dial at all times? You just want to ensure that the dial is seated correctly and the hour hand was put back on level. If this checks out then be certain there isn't some some contaminate somewhere e.g. some fluff or dirt in between a tooth on the hour wheel.
  28. 1 point
    Very, very valuable information @Marc! Much appreciated! Thank you!
  29. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Too much lock? Causing low amplitude?

    Here's the link to the mention software. Then the same software is also available on eBay. http://www.delphelectronics.co.uk/products.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-Clock-Timing-Machine-S-W-Witschi-Greiner-Vibrograf-Timegrapher/112473962615
  30. 1 point
    Just replaced the battery in my caliper. Here are the measurements: OD: 6.33mm ID: 2.86mm Thickness: 0.04mm
  31. 1 point
    vinn3

    Easy out for watch screws?

    the screw asochated with may be left hand thread. if that is so and 1/2 the screw head is broken off -- and down tight ! if so, it is a good time to learn; use penitrating oil and HEAT. cheers vin
  32. 1 point
    There. I knew I've seen it in a tech doc somewhere. It's listed as the "indicator distance piece." It's not in the current version on the ETA website though.
  33. 1 point
    vinn3

    My Pulrta 10 Lathe

    measure the thread diameter, count the threads per inch and look it up in the machinery handbook. cheers vin
  34. 1 point
    clockboy

    Glass Polishing

    This subject has been covered many times in this forum. Just put it in the search bar and you will find lots. Personally I find it too long a winded a process and I have had mixed results. If it is a deep scratch removing the scratch and still keeping the optics OK I have found difficult. Far easier, quicker and in real terms cheaper to just change the crystal.
  35. 1 point
    nickelsilver

    My Pulrta 10 Lathe

    The original standard was developed by Webster Whitcomb. If you look at many of the above sizes they are either the same or very very close. The thread pitch of 40tpi comes out to 0.635mm, and in the real world that's close enough to interchange almost all the time. What gets sticky is the thread diameter; if you look at Lorch they have a 0.625mm pitch but the thread diameter is 0.275", which is big enough to bind in many drawbars intended for the 0.268 WW thread. You can see there are several including Bergeon and Wolf Jahn with a 0.270" thread diameter, and from experience these work well across many makes. Differences in length B of a couple of millimeters doesn't generally pose a problem, it's sort of a silly dimension callout there, as there are varying head total diameters (Bergeon, Wolf Jahn, Schaublin and others are a full millimeter larger than WW) which will throw off that length without changing the function. The keyway may vary a bit over different makes, and some lathes may have a slightly larger key which interferes. It is OK to very carefully reduce the key size with a sharp file. If the lathe spindle is well made the file won't touch it anyway, but the key is soft enough to cut. What's really important in buying collets is that they are truly 8mm, or more specifically 7.99mm plus a few microns. The original WW spec is 0.3147" which comes to 7.993mm. This is because the bore in the lathe is very precisely 8mm in diameter, and they wouldn't fit in if they were also 8mm. The bore is where 90% of the accuracy comes from, the angled face of the spindle and corresponding angle on the collet are to close it- they must also be extremely accurately made of course, but the bore and collet fit are where the real business takes place. From experience older American made collets from Derbyshire, Levin, Hardinge (often marked Dale), are all good. European makes of Wolf Jahn, Bergeon, Schaublin, G.Boley, Boley Leinen, and certainly some others are all good. I have used all of the above in several makes of lathe including Webster Whitcomb, Levin, Leinen, Boley. Likewise from experience Starrett (nothing to do with the measuring tool manufacturer) and Peerless are some of the worst. They are soft, and undersized. You can see above Marshall/Peerless, the body size is 0.312" or 7.93mm. That's enough undersize to seriously affect accuracy and repeatability. Any collet however good it may look may be useless due to abuse in the past. Some ugly collets run perfectly. When buying used you just have to accumulate and sort through, make a set of really good ones, keep another set for rough work.
  36. 1 point
    Walsey

    anti-shock

    I have done this fiddly repair recently on a 620, so it is possible. First you'll remove the hairspring/balance from the balance cock. Flip over the balance cock and you'll see the u-shaped clip that is holding in the incabloc setting. I would recommend installing the new shock-spring and cap jewel into the setting before installing back into the balance cock. You can scavenge a new shock-spring for a reasonable price from www.ofrei.com , part:FB-INCA-ROA466
  37. 1 point
    rodabod

    Too much lock? Causing low amplitude?

    It does look like quite deep locking, but I wouldn't assume that it isn't normal without a comparison. Don't compare it to any Chinese copies as I tend to find that these have a very shallow lock. I would doubt your mainspring is the culprit, from what you have described.
  38. 1 point
    My pleasure glad to be of constructive help.
  39. 1 point
    toptime810

    CUSTOM DECAL DIAL TUTORIAL

    How about this custom dial that's not a decal but made by hand and lacquered and lumed by me
  40. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Back again

    Welcome back Dave,
  41. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Coupling nut?

    I think that's the right term.long nut threaded through used for coupling one threaded rod to another. Why do I ask? I have a few vostok amphibia cases I want to experiment with. My idea is to transplant another as of yet to be determined caliber into a vostok case. In order to keep the vostok crown I wish to cut the stem and connect it to another with a coupling nut...does such a thing exist in the world of horology?why do I want to do this? Simple..because I can.
  42. 1 point
    Well maybe a little harsh. If offered the fake or the real McCoy, I'm sorry but gimme the Rolex. If offered the fake or the money to buy the Rolex, I would probablyl take the cash. Having said that, I have no personal driving desire to own a Rolex. They look fine, don't get me wrong, but I probably got far more enjoyment of the Chairman Mao smoking watch than I would out of a Rolex. I'd only go and loose or break the darned thing anyway, so gimme the genuine Rolex, but the first thing I'm going to do is flog it and buy a bunch of other stuff that I actually want. There is a rather nice looking Omega down in a certain Stirling jewelers that gets the occasional sideways glance as I go past though, so my steely resolve to stick to sensible or affordable purchases cannot be absolutely guaranteed. The fake Rolex would however make a very fine member of the 404 club of course.
  43. 1 point
    praezis

    spade drill bit set

    Did you buy that set because of that black stamp? Probably someone can say "Mission accomplished" then. Else such tools are unmarketable today. Even in 1944 (wartime, always desirable items) that set was outdated by far. Frank
  44. 1 point
    mzinski

    Tudor ETA 2447 Stem???

    Thanks for talking through this with me. It’s funny I search ETA 2447 all over but it wasn’t until I search “ETA 2447 diameter” that info about the stem appeared. I’ve ordered a 2360 stem - hopefully problem solved.
  45. 1 point
    bjd1020

    Newbie Cleaning question

    Here.....run you about 125 bucks Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    jdm

    Case for Landeron 48 Chronograph movement

    Actually that can't be done because there is a no sales policy here. Use PM or email for that.
  47. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Sharpening pegwood etc.

    Didn't anyone make arrows as a kid. Stick and a pen knives and just sharpen the end. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    Tmuir

    BSA C15

    It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.
  49. 1 point
    Titanium

    My Pulrta 10 Lathe

    This is the paperwork that came with it. Turns out it cost £21 in 1952 which is a bit more that the £300 I paid. I hope these are of some interest. Pultra Information.pdf Pultra Price List.pdf Pultra Receipt.pdf
  50. 1 point
    JohnR725

    861 Elgin balance staff

    I agree the wording on the gauge can be a bit confusing. So the 50 /100 of a millimeter which is really 0.50 mm then the 11 would be 0.11 mm. So two of the images come from Bulova training manual. One of the images I have no idea where it came from as it was a very long time ago I got the image. The photographs are mine. Then for the Bulova training book which is really nice to have physical copy seems a bit expensive but it's at the link below and the second link older edition is a PDF in sections. .https://www.amazon.com/Joseph-Bulova-School-Watchmaking-Training/dp/0918845211 http://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs
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