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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/25 in all areas
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3 points
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You may know that I added a tool to my PCTM (pro) timing machine program to make dynamic poising simple and easy. Of course that kind of math is used in the background - and it helps repairing watches. At least users of PCTM , e.g. me! Agreed. And afaik their table of beat rates and lift angles is the original that was and is copied by literally each and every one - famous Witschi included. Frank3 points
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I found it lengthy and not well written. If interested in the topic: read Jendritzki. His writing is always clear and uncomplicated. Frank2 points
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You can press the collet on by hand with the correct sized tube. it's not so difficult if you are careful, there are also other simple devices to do the job, I've never actually used a staking set to do it. You might find correcting a twist easier this way.....normally you would anchor the hairspring with one pair of tweezers ( anchoring pair )but If the twist is very close to the stud that may not be required as the stud forms the anchoring point. With second pair of tweezers (correcting pair) hold them slightly open over the twist then set them at the angle you feel is right for the correction then close them together and release slowly. This way there is no wrist movement involved in the manoeuvre only finger pressure. Try it on some scrap springs and see how it works for you, i feel that I have much more control over the operation.2 points
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The secret is out! The cheese residue on the knife adds some extra great lubrication.2 points
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probably the problem or having is that simple doesn't apply to a balance wheel. There are lots of things going on with extremely complicated math just as a guess. For instance on the website on dynamic poising there is a reference to why would you have to poise a screwless balance wheel? then he explained why they exist but? I also have a PDF attached from Omega why they have a screwless balance wheel. I bring this up because while he does explain the main points he doesn't include all of the points probably because he may not actually know them. For instance here's something interesting Omega has so as a general guess the problem with a balance wheel and hairspring is it is dreadfully complicated at a theoretical level. But still it's quite amazing how good of timekeeping they can keep if they haven't been screwed around with too much. Omega technical guide number 12 June 1959 Omega have adopt the screwless balance.pdf thinking about poise maybe this might help.2 points
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Hi, my name is Mehmood, and I'm a 23-year-old watchmaker with 5 years of experience. I'm passionate about working on watches, particularly when it comes to identifying and resolving issues. I enjoy taking a methodical approach to diagnose problems and determine their root causes, ensuring that the issue doesn't recur. As a skilled watch diagnostician, I'm confident in providing accurate estimations to watch owners. I feel fortunate to have a job that I truly enjoy, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to share my expertise with you.1 point
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it depends on what I am doing sometimes I use diamond up especially when turning brass because it is best turned with negative rake and it’s easier to get negative with diamond up , I also use it for turning very small blue steel but then the graver is a lot smaller. Dell1 point
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I used watch oil on both the pallets & jewelled pivots but I only put a small amount on the pallets as when the escape wheel teeth hits the pallet my thinking was that would spread onto every tooth right or wrong I am not sure but that’s what I did . Must admit OH I hadn’t thought about oil to help stop fluttering but it makes sense, on torsion clocks the usual thing to stop flutter is to raise fork 1/2 to 1mm. Dell1 point
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What makes you think this is for hairspring vibrating? Did you ever vibrate one with this device? What I see is a very vintage timing machine and a microphone. Frank1 point
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Dumont #7s are my go to tweezer for this. Ideally 2 pairs, but they are expensive. For me, my income depends on them so I shell out for the nice ones. I've tried cheap tweezers and they just don't hold up. Sure you can polish and shape them how you want, but the biggest issue I found was the closing force of cheaper tweezers. They are just too strong. Dumont's are just right. Gosh I must have $600 in tweezers alone! maybe I should cut back...1 point
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This is what i used to do my watch oiler every other tooth of the escape wheel and on both faces of the pallets and to stop fluttering and to make it easy with the escape action using the same size oiler a wee drop each side of the pallet post that goes in between the pallet fork.1 point
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I like to have the sides of my hands on my bench for stability, i manage that by using bent tweezers no. 7s. I also bend the angle even more than it already is and hold the tweezers slid through my middle of my fingers.1 point
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Clock is reassembled and running now. I'm still setting the rate, but as of this afternoon it was within 2 minutes per day. Interesting that my clock has Arabic numerals, while the one that @Dell posted has Roman. I didn't know both options were available.1 point
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To be clear, to check the automatic train off the movement you should have the automatic works fully assembled, including the rotor, but not installed in the movement. Move the rotor and see that the motion is transferred to the winding wheel with its pinion and that it turns in the right direction regardless of which way the rotor moves. The winding wheel pinion should, I believe, turn anticlockwise when installed, so if you're checking it with it turned over look for clockwise movement. It does sound like there is an issue with the pawl wheels as they are what should isolate the movement of the ratchet wheel from the rotor when winding by hand. It sounds like these have been either swapped or installed upside down. (I don't know the movement so I don't know if that's possible, but it's what the symptoms described suggest to me.) The photo Andy requested was of the automatic works with the bridge removed that holds three wheels, like the third pic in the original post but without the bridge.1 point
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Yes, they're the ones, although I didn't pay that much for them: I got them for AU$36.71 from Chinese seller makeupgogo.1 point
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In the same way that increasing a hairspring's active length increases the time it takes to oscillate so decreasing the rate . Reminds me , I must get my old maths and physics books out. I'll ask my maths teacher to explain this to me next Monday, at least she was impressed with my Theory of Relativity t-shirt.1 point
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Can't imagine what the first two tools are used for. I think the last tool is a clock pivot positioner.1 point
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I've been thinking about trying to replicate either with a 3D printer or by laser engraving from a sheet of material but the problem is finding a good set to start with.1 point
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You might all enjoy reading about the Le Coultre et Cie "Compass" camera... Yes you read that correctly, they made cameras, but not just any camera, this is a marvel of Swiss engineering and British Design. If you want to know the details... and why wouldn't you? follow this link -> http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Compass They turn up on ebay from time to time, but they are a little pricey.1 point
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I suppose there is no simple explanation and „higher amplitude = longer way = slower is rubbish (to the 3rd order). Balance and Pendulum swing are different: the first is a harmonic oscillation, the second is not. The first should be isochrone (but is not in reality), the second is not, even theoretical. Frank1 point
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I have some of those 20 degree angle gravers as well. I reshaped one to get 2 parallel(lish) sides with the (flat) point beeing slightly wider than the bit behind that (you want a parting tool to be a bit reverse tapered to avoid the sides to touch the cut and cause chatter), and made sure I had some relief angles all around. A dremel tool with a diamond disk makes the rough shaping very easy (and fast). I did the final shaping, sharpening and honing with the diamond plates I showed earlier. It doesn't have much stickout as the carbide is relatively brittle. Also when the tool is short you get less chatter. So instead of trying (struggeling) to achieve a deep thin cut (that might look nice) I tend to start with a wider cut that narrows as I get further in. Might not be pretty (or "best practise") but it works. If you haven't already, I can recommend watching T&T&T's video's on youtube (you might want to turn the audio down).1 point
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