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All I know is I never wanted to get into watchmaking at all, but there was simply too much beat error in the world. It was, like, everywhere I looked. I didn't qualify for military service, so I felt it my duty to do my small part to minimize whatever beat error I could.

I'd suggest you could just measure the barrel wall height and subtract about 0.1mm to allow for some headroom. Assuming the lid doesn't protrude into the barrel when fitted. If it does, subtract that amount (or a good estimate of it) from the total also.

For basically anything rust-related, I use Evaporust. Usually, for chemicals, the safety to efficacy relationship is inverse; the more effective a chemical is, the less safe it is. Evaporust seems to have hit a nice sweet spot in that curve, where it is very safe, and very effective....mostly. I learned the hard way that you should not use Evaporust on watch movements. Or at the very least, do not use them on any part of the going train if they're composed of steel. According to their website, Evaporust causes a phenomenon called "carbon migration." Since steel is Carbon and Iron, and Evaporust removes Iron, you're left with just carbon on the surface, including in between pinion leaves, which seemingly can only be removed via manual scraping. And you have to put a good amount of elbow grease into scraping it off, and one slip and you'll definitely destroy the part. One watch was completely locked up, the other is limping by with maybe 60 degrees of amplitude. Just putting this out there in case anyone else thinks to try it.

Hello all here is my Schematic to wire in the 21E92 Cycle Timer To get the Janta to "auto forward and reverse" This unit is purchased from Grainger here in the US It costs about $80.00 https://vk.com/video617204413_456239028?t=9s

They look fine to me too. If you want to remove the flux, you can use 50/50 IPA and Acetone as a flux remover.

They are covered in flux, hard to get a clear pic, but they look OK

REGV is generated by an internal 5V to 3,3V regulator. Either, the regulator is bad, or there is a load on the regulator that is preventing it from giving a proper output. REGV goes to a capacitor (unlikely the problem) and to a 1,5K resistor back to the usb plug. If you have tested both boards with the same USB cable, then the USB cable is not a good suspect. You could remove the 1,5K resistor and take the measurement again.

I agree with lexacat. You will get much more accurate measurements directly from the spring and barrel than from a piece of Rodico. If you can identify the movement, there are lists of suitable springs. Also, the arbor should not have vertical play, even when the spring is missing.

Hi. Jus needs care in lining them up, stool would help in keeping them straight while pressing them on. Hand setting tools can be had on eBay at no great cost. Good luck

Found the pictures I was looking for.

Great pictures. I'm seeing exactly the same thing. Strangely, the black discoloration is not uniform. I work on Timex watches almost exclusively. After soaking, their gears are still shiny, but their pinion leaves turn black. If you look at a non-rusted Timex, the pinions are already a different color from the gears, like they're made of different materials, and the pinions are always the ones to rust. So I'm thinking maybe the pinions are made of carbon steel, whereas the gears are made of stainless steel or zinc-plated or something. Regardless, I want to try to find a way to loosen the carbon. Part of the problem is that the carbon is really on there. Your fingers will get a little dirty if you touch it, but you have to scrape to get it off. I had hoped that the ultrasonic would get it off, but I tried that to no avail. I did see a product called Carbon-Off that's used to dislodge carbon from cookware and machinery. Perhaps a light soak in that would loosen it enough that the ultrasonic could do its work.... or it could destroy it entirely... who knows?

I know very little about chemistry, but I assume that vinegar also counts as an acid. If so, is there any other way to remove the rust? I always use vinegar to remove rust. It usually works well, but quite often the parts are discoloured depending on the type of metal. Here is an example of a setting wheel and a date corrector operating lever from an ETA 2892-A2 that has been discoloured by using vinegar.