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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/07/23 in all areas

  1. While I have not posted here in several years , I see some old friends. And from what I read, there is good representation worldwide with many solid answers and suggestions that make me rethink why I do some things the way I do. Thanks. Attached is paper I wrote a couple years ago for customers and people interested in pursuing precison timing but who do not the opposrtunites to attend a formal course. I would like to point out those who contibuted in the acknowldegements at the end of the paper. I hope you find it helpful. Regards, Dewey Clark 1941670032_WatchAdjustment.pdf
    4 points
  2. There's just a novelty to being able to do this that is so cool. Plus i think ti's gorgeous. All oem seiko parts i got for practically nothing here and there when I saw them. Movement is another 7s26 from parts from a handful of my donor/junk movements. Slightly used dial, new case i got for 25 dollars and some beat up old hands i had to do a little work on.
    3 points
  3. The difference between horizontal and vertical looks OK. You get less amplitude when vertical as the side of the pivot is rubbing on the hole jewel, giving more friction. The difference DD/DU is more than it should be (say, <10°). Worth re-cleaning/oiling the balance cock jewel.
    2 points
  4. Somewhere ones in the horological times a publication of the American watch and clockmakers Institute they got obsessed with Rodico. It's actually a banned substance a lot of repair shops. So basically what the concern is it acts like a sponge it absorbs things which is why we like it. But it doesn't just magically transport whatever it absorbs to another universe it's still in the substance and then it leaves a residue film behind. For lubrication even a microscopic film of something left behind will cause your oil to spread away from wherever you put it. I think for me one of the most interesting examples of the effect of the evil substance was in the British horological Institute magazine somebody was doing a review of a witschi watch expert number one their first of the watch expert series. So from memory what happened was the person playing with their machine learning about stuff to the balance wheel out and clean the pivots with Rodico And discovered a loss of amplitude. This is where a lot of things that are done were done before we had these newfangled timing machines that had numbers we had to please Like the push for greater amplitudes and now we can see the effect of stuff. I went googling to see what I can find and I found this this is quite amusing and interesting read. https://www.cmtradelaw.com/2020/09/customs-ruling-of-the-week-classification-of-rodico-cleaning-putty/ Okay it's amazing what you can find online if you're lucky. What you want to pay attention to is the very start the very starting discussion has some links one of them is a link to the PDF for the horological times magazine that talks about the evil of the substance. oh and in case you're curious yes I have someone my bench. Evil or not it still has its uses. https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/does-rodico-invite-corrosion.164399/
    2 points
  5. Slowly off topic, but reading the above one start to question ones own practices. So far, I've been oiling the impulse planes of the pallet-jewels before the installment of the pallet-fork. To get a nice stable & convenient "platform", I stick the fork (horns/safety-pin) in Rodico. Some people claim that Rodico leaves an unwanted film, so after oiling and before installment, I stick / dip the horns in some Pith wood. If the cleanness for the fork notch can have such an dramatic influence on the amplitude, is the use of Rodico wise at all ? Same for when pivots have been in contact with Rodico. If there has already been a discussion about the influence of the use of Rodico, please point me to it and I do apologize for my "off topic", possible amplitude influencing, question.
    2 points
  6. Thank you I didn't want to feel stupid by asking what impulse jewel is. Here's a question what if we were talking about o'clock would that change the answer? Now you have to go into the clock section and ask what's the difference between a lever escapement o'clock and in a watch or I might be nice and answer the question below but clock people do oil the impulse pin in their clocks especially if it's brass or maybe steal I can't remember it typically don't oil the jewels but maybe they do some clocks they seem to put a heck of a lot oil on them. One of the problems we have with rules on lubrication is they will date back to organic lubricants where as they go bad they can get sticky and sticky like pallet fork pivots that are sticky that's bad sticky roller jewel's very bad but what about modern oils they don't get sticky? Even make oils for my quartz watches where the wheels have to revolve superfast when there engaged seems like they might be good for the pallet fork pivots? Epilam on the pallet fork? Even going back to the 50s for Omega they recommended not treating the pallet fork at all because they were concerned about the pallet fork sticking to the banking pins. I'm snipping out the page on epilam from 1957 you'll see the recommendation and why sticky. But also notice other things they recommend not treating like the basically the entire pallet fork. Then of course they recommend the balance pivots which is what eta has been doing for years on their watches you just typically don't see it you have to look at the manufacturing information sheets because it's not normally in the technical documentation. Then yes there is a big debate at least with the older versions of epilam where the solvent evaporates incredibly fast and causes a cooling effect that causes moisture in the air and rust. I've also heard a suggestion that the moisture could get trapped under the epilam when it's busy cooling I'm not sure how true that was but we both seen pictures somebody posted of rusty roller jewel's claiming it was the condensation formed when it cooled. Except the new epilam is supposed to be environmentally friendly and that's not supposed to happen. Then for clock people a lot of times there pallet fork is made out of brass. Then instead of having a nice Ruby jewel they have a brass pin and apparently it's better if that is oil as otherwise brass on brass they claim is sticky. At least that's what the clock people claim.
    2 points
  7. for that kind of money, I'd consider making it myself for way cheaper. You have the skills.
    2 points
  8. Having a hard time getting my head around that but glad you made it work. Typically one would use rodico for something like this. When I am installing a bridge, I always install the screws into their holes but do not tighten them in. This stabilizes the bridge. Then I use a piece of pegwood (tooth pick I suppose) to gently press down on the bridge as I gentle nudge the wheels in place. I am not a professional, but this method has consistently worked for me.
    2 points
  9. Seiko 7005-8042 April 1972 Revisited this watch 2 and a half years after I first serviced it. Never ran as well as I wanted it to with poor amplitude and timekeeping. With the extra experience I've gained over that time I have managed to get it running really well. Running consistently in wear between +0.5 and + 1 second per day. Dial up/down amplitude 280 degrees 1 hour after fully wound. Not bad for a 50 year old Seiko. Thanks must go to Kalle at Chronoglide watchmakers for all his great teaching via his YouTube channel. If you've not seen this then it is wholeheartedly recommended, especially the live streams every Tuesday at 8pm.
    2 points
  10. Fellow watchmakers and enthusiasts, I’m happy happy to inform you that after 3 years searching, I’ve finally found lathe that I could call “mine“. Just before Christmas popped out on eBay lathe for sale that caught my attention. It is Boley F1 from 1962 in very good condition and quite full set of tools with it. I was thrilled to win late night auction, finishing during my vacation in Budapest. Since it was seller with great feedback and reference from watchmaker I thrust I couldn’t mind to pay a bit more than was my limit. Basically, it was one of those moments when limit is just a rule that could and should be broken. Now I have it home and service is underway. Unfortunately I’m on another vacation in Tallinn and had to take a break from playing with my new love. “Precious” as I call it (yes I give names to all my loved tools) calls me, it wants to be with me and want to be with it :). I prepare post about service that I’ll post here, so if anyone is interested, stay tuned. Couple spoiler pictures attached PS: I’m searching for pivot support for tailstock, if anyone has one spare, let me know.
    1 point
  11. I'm a long-time hobbyist who enjoys vintage watches, mostly LeCoultre along with others that have caught my eye. My Grail vintage watch is a 1953 LeCoultre Futurematic which I restored with unused original factory parts purchased from a retiring Watchmaker. My current project is a 1968 Omega Seamaster Cosmic with a broken winding stem which is how I discovered this forum watching a video on how to open a watch with no back. Looking forward to learning from folks on the forum and enjoying chatting with others who love mechanical watches.
    1 point
  12. The Bergeon is 25 mm diameter, 5 mm high. The notch starts 5mm from one edge. The overhang is 1mm thick. What is nice about the brass Chinese version is the lower solid base supports the cock. You can easily place the immobilized balance under the microscope to inspect the impulse jewel and extended hairspring, place it into a jar of Hexane etc for cleaning, back under the microscope etc.
    1 point
  13. I posted about this watch on the timing sub-thread, but thought I'd share the completed project here. For background, I purchased this watch on eBay for $32 all in ($25 for the watch, $6 tax and shipping). It was listed as a non-runner with significant dial damage, so I knew it would never pass for much more than a project watch since the cosmetics were so rough (first three pictures). I serviced the movement, including removing and cleaning the 'sealed' mainspring. Did not have to replace or correct any parts. Once I got the movement in running order, I started to try to clean up the dial. First I soaked it for a few minutes in warm water, hoping that would remove the lacquer. However whatever was used at Bulova was much harder than other dial coatings and it didn't budge. So I soaked it in acetone knowing that would probobly remove the painted logo and dial markings (it did) I cleaned up the numerals and applied a fresh coat of acrylic lacquer (spray on). I also re-lumed the hands. Overall turned out pretty nice, but don't think it is worth much as resale given the dial is now non-branded, so I'll probably keep it as a daily runner since I don't have a mechnical watch of my own. \ Was thinking about trying to apply a new logo using the technique that I saw in one of Mark's videos (using a transparent film-free decal paper), but the dial is black and laser printers don't print white. Curious what you think--leave well enough alone or try some other method (or use laser decal method Mark used but maybe with red letters). BTW: I had the watch running at 0mm beat error before reinstalling the hands and re-casing. It slipped a bit as a result but decided .7mm is good enough for a 62 year old watch.
    1 point
  14. The dial looks nice! I have one that has similar problems, maybe I'll follow your lead with it. Cheers!
    1 point
  15. That article by Bruce Shawkey is what got me interested in the Bulova 23's. He's a good guy, I met him when I lived in Madison WI. Unfortunately, he had a stroke a couple of years ago, and is not as active as he used to be. But, he still has a blog and writes regularly about various watch brands. http://brucesworldofwatches.blogspot.com/
    1 point
  16. I'm with @JohnR725 on this one - I think "roller jewel" is more obvious and clear. It's a jewel on the roller! Fried refers to it as a roller jewel. You could argue that "impulse jewels" are the pallet jewels as they give an impulse. (Pity it isn't lubricated, or we could have a massive argument over this )
    1 point
  17. I am pretty happy with this. It came yesterday. I ordered a 20mm strap even though my lugs are at 19.6. I simply filed down the ends and polished it out so that it looks nearly factory IMHO. Only $47 after tax title and license!
    1 point
  18. "Dear child has many names", but I would assume that what you're trying to say is that "roller jewel" is the correct nomenclature, no? A search through the published resources in my possession turned up roller pin, roller jewel, ruby pin, impulse pin and ruby impulse pin as correct terms. Does this make John stupid for not understanding what was meant by roller jewel?
    1 point
  19. Apart from ebay, has anyone found a supplier of timing washers? I have a nice set of pocket watch washers - the smallest are Size '0' (13''') which I can use on some wristwatches, but I'd like a better selection. Twice recently I've had hairsprings break at the studs, which when re-studded, requires quite a few timing washers.
    1 point
  20. 6 hours later. It's been cleaned, checked over, and some more parts replaced. I managed to lose a diashock spring. Left it on a case cushion and when I looked up it was gone. Getting better at using the loupes and lubricating, but still making mistakes and generally slow going. This time I put it back together without following a tutorial, just trying to remember where each piece goes, what needs lubricating, and familiarising myself with the movement. It went really well. I'll leave it ticking away until tomorrow, then I'll check it and regulate it again and complete putting it together.
    1 point
  21. English/Kanji day rings are available for the 7S family 0160281 - white 0160298 - black above are both crown @4
    1 point
  22. I wonder that too. When assembling, I often use some clean Rodico to dab jewels/pivots etc to make sure there are not bits of dust on them. Even after cleaning/rinsing, some jewels show a 'film' around the hole, which I wipe away with Rodico. I should add - that when working on cleaned parts, I never touch the rodico with bare fingers, only finger cots or tools.
    1 point
  23. How about these 2 beauties? Yea? Nay? They are still available from AliExpress. About $20 each. FYI I didn't buy them. Someone gifted them to me on learning that I'm into watch repairing.
    1 point
  24. Yeah, i have several of the english/kanji ones. Unfortunately they were all for a 3 oclock crown and the only black one i had for a 4 oclock was english spanish which is how they usually come in america. I have a different seiko 5 that's english and arabic.
    1 point
  25. Misspeled and unedited, sorry LWC , no offence. Interweb is spotty here at best, have to hit the post button in a hurry befroe connection fades. Rgds
    1 point
  26. Very nice! Is that one of Seiko's bilingual English-Japanese day-date complication (i.e., there's Japanese weekdays between the English weekdays on the ring?) I have a quartz Seiko like that, but I don't know if they did mechanical watches that way. I have the 1900's pocket watch equivalent of a cobbled-together watch, by the way--a movement from 1905, case from the 20's and a dial that at least post-dates 1910. But I didn't do it myself, I bought it that way. Would love to get to where I can do things like this, though!
    1 point
  27. Excellent! take pics and make it a thread !!
    1 point
  28. I think if I were to interpret "ugly" as being an aesthetic which I find repulsive (in other words ugly to me, maybe not to everyone) then I'd put one of the new Invicta watches in here. I cannot recall the model name, but I was asked to work on it and get it running again. It was quartz and I learned that blowing it out a bit, doing a line release, and a tiny bit of quartz oil all did the trick. But GAD that thing was sooooooo overdone! It was mucking HUGE for a wristwatch. And HEAVY. You'd build up your biceps just wearing it. It was covered in multi-colored street-style graffiti, with a little steel cable running through brackets around the bezel. It was one big heckin' chonk of wannabe hood bling. Thing is, I know people in the hood and even they have better taste. Taudrey and garish as Vegas at Christmastime, that thing made my eyes hurt. Invicta makes similar loud-looking models; but that one was unreal. Addendum: I think it was called an Invicta Bolt Zeus. I recall my wife saw what I was working on and made a face. Coming from a well-off New England upbringing, Sarah exited the room in such a way that made it clear that being caught dead wearing such a watch was not an option.
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. That is actually an excellent press and most of the negative reviews are from people who have not actually used one. You can tell that because the most common complaints are the the L bracket and the two uprights bend under pressure, and once you get one you realise that no mere mortal is going to be able to bend either part, they are just too thick to bend. And yes the L Bracket is like that for the watches bracelet to slide under.
    1 point
  31. Or just hold the escape wheel still with an old oiler unil the pallet is removed, then remove the oiler and watch and listen for the whistle as the wheels spin down.
    1 point
  32. Proper cleaning using ultrasonic and L and R ammoniated cleaner and rinse. Followed with hairspring cleaning and demagnetisation in Essence of Renata. I put a bit of that in the Renata screw cap with the balance and hold over the demagnetiser for 20 seconds or so that agitates the hairspring in the fluid. Seems to work well. I did initially have sticky hairspring outer coil that was causing ultra fast rate when the amplitude went over 310 degrees (which happens on wrist at full wind). That would cause sudden random shifts in time keeping. Remove wear from barrel arbor port (with staking set and smoothing broach). Chronoglide call this 'Hammer Time', I love that. Make hairspring true in the round and in the flat with proper shaped end curve. Narrow the space between the regulator curb pin and boot so that vertical position rate doesn't drop drastically due to the reduced amplitude. Then just regulate at around +2 SPD DU as a starting point and cross fingers. Fine regulation is difficult and I find the tiniest movement of the regulator arm can change the rate by about 7 seconds. Really though if you want to see how the Pros work then take a look at the Chronoglide channel, I promise you will be hooked.
    1 point
  33. I just ordered it but haven't received it yet. I'll report back here and let you know what I think of it. Supposed to get here Tuesday, 1/10 I'm pretty sure the L-shaped bottom is clearance so you can press a back on with the strap still attached, so yeah, not a genius idea. Maybe collectors would want that more than watchmakers? I will just machine a solid block replacement if it's a problem. I dunno, but I just have a gut feeling that for me a lever press, no matter the maker, will be somewhere between useless and much less useful than the control you get with a screw-down press.
    1 point
  34. I'd honestly be surprised if it lasts long enough to become a family heirloom, but if it does I'm definitely leaving it to my least favourite kid.
    1 point
  35. Something’s Rotating In The State Of Denmark: A Clock. https://hackaday.com/2023/01/04/somethings-rotating-in-the-state-of-denmark-a-clock/\
    1 point
  36. UPDATE: I removed the balance, cleaned it again, removed the shock setting and cleaned and lubricated again, put the balance complete back in the movement and it's now running dial up. So it appears I screwed up lubricating the shock jewels on the balance. UPDATE TWO MILLION AND ONE: I gotta admit I got pretty depressed about this not turning out very well, but I'm fairly ecstatic now. After fixing the lubrication on the balance I got it on my timegrapher and thought I might take a crack at regulating it. The balance issue seems to have fixed the amplitude nicely also. This is was I was working with, +468s and 6.8ms beat error. After a bunch of fettling I got some figures I'm happy with. I might be able to tweak the beat error some more, but I'm taking this win. Dial down: 0s/d 253deg amplitude 0.4ms beat error Dial up: +2s/d 251deg amplitude 0.5ms beat error Crown up: -1s/d 226deg amplitude 0.2ms beat error Crown down: +7s/d 228deg amplitude 0.6ms beat error Not perfect numbers for sure, but I'm super happy. Now I'm just waiting for some parts to arrive, a case and movement rings, and I've realised I need some dial spacer rings too so I'll need to wait for those to turn up. In the meantime I might see if I can get another one of these junk movements going! I need another balance/spring though...
    1 point
  37. Hoping to get started on this (Croton) Nivada Grenchen 25j ETA 2451 automatic. Very lovely dial and Speidel bracelet. Picked it up for $5 US a few years back at a swap meet.
    1 point
  38. Surprisingly, Candino still exist and indeed they still produce a number of 2,4,6,8,10,12 dialed watches. https://www.candino.com/en/candino_watches/c4631-1/ Not bad, but I think I prefer its 1950s cousin.
    1 point
  39. Bentima Star 1940s I think AS1240 £3 Charity Shop find. Needed a new balance staff. Fitted wrong one at first that turned out to be for incabloc (0.1mm too long, staff numbered 724). Eventually got the right staff for non incabloc, numbered 723. Running at 280 degrees DU an hour after full wind. Will see how it keeps time and regulate as needed. Late additional Christmas present for my wife.
    1 point
  40. Whatever you do you want to be extremely careful and definitely don't bend the guard pin. But it's amazing what you can find in books here's a recommendation's I snipped out an image for you. Then yes you don't have to agree with everything found in a book as this makes me very nervous.
    1 point
  41. By the way you still haven't answered one of my questions I wasn't talking about the train for lubrication. The waveform going straight across looks a bit rough if somebody forgot the oil there escapement that specifically the pallet stones you will get an effect just like this. Even if you oil the escapement and like one stone is dry you can see it in the timing graph so if you don't oil the escapement you will see it will look war and you will not have amplitude. But yes when you switch the crown position your definitely losing power I would still oil the gear train oil with anything a half I don't care what you will with oil with Just about anything I don't really care but there should be oil on the train and definitely oil on the escapement that's the pallet fork and escape wheel
    1 point
  42. Yes we've had lengthy discussions were newbies feel unhappy which is why we actually have a safe zone for newbies to ask questions. But sometimes people won't even look at the newbies questions for fear of somehow upsetting a newbie. Supposedly at least the person who really wanted the newbie section was that newbies could work together share their ideas pool their resources and not have to deal with the evil experience people on the group. The problem is that the newbies don't have experience or knowledge to answer their own questions. Then unfortunately a lot of newbie questions can be answered with a section of standard answers. But apparently newbies don't want that they want to have an individual answer for the same question that's been asked 50 times in the last month although I don't think I've ever seen that here. A lot of times newbies get very demanding on how the watch world works and it's not actually grasp how it works to the settled Down and then start to behave appropriately for the discussion group. Yes contrary to popular belief learning watch repair is not easy and everybody gets frustrated. Bless everyone has parts issues I have watches currently on the bench or actually it's a small car clock needs parts no idea where were guy get them so it's going to sit there for a while. With angry customer calling from time to time wanting to know where the status of the clock is now there is something the hobbyists shouldn't have is angry customers bothering them. The problem with Seiko is is it an overseas Seiko or US Seiko? Then there's also the possibility that maybe the material houses don't work with Seiko.Then of course there is the other problem material houses are run by people just like us well hopefully knowledgeable people in the material business but not necessarily. Then they need numbers the same as we do so yes conceivably they're all using the same database which is what the problem is. So they don't have Seiko access their probably accessing the same thing we are online Then I would be curious would you give me the wrong numbers please and are we still waiting for correct number for your case? What hostile watchmakers? One of my friends Doug learning watch repair on his own I pointed out that we have a school yes Seattle has two schools we have a professional school and a school for hobbyists to learn watch repair in a friendly safe environment. I'll give you a link below and know don't even think of emailing and asking about online courses they don't do the. Not that people don't keep emailing and then I send them to Mark's course that is if I think they're serious and not pulling a scam because most of them are trying to scam in some way or another now back to Doug one day at a nawcc meeting He was explaining that is he was learning watch repair whatever he was looking at he went downtown and asked the question and I resisted laughing hysterically because I knew what the outcome would be. So what was his question he walked into the furnace watchmaker shop explained that he taught himself watch repair he offered them money if they would evaluate what he did and of course they all through them out. No that's not true of everybody if you walk into where I work and ask Sam's happy to sell you a practice movement and talk to you so it's not 100% but a lot of the old-time watchmakers are well very peculiar people. Amusingly that's something they try not to talk about at the school teaching professional watchmakers locally. Dave the instructor comments it basically well we can't compete with Microsoft. With so many tech companies like Microsoft that starting pay is $1 trillion an hour or whatever it is watch repair just can't compete. So yes the pay is a definite problem but let's look at this a little bit differently what you think it should cost to get a watch serviced? Let's look at the Seiko in this discussion is anyone know how long it would take the taken apart clean it lubricate it put it back together case it up add in handling the paperwork because you're doing a job for customer you have to some paperwork possibly some billing how much time you think is spent to service the watch? How much an hour would you like to make look at your current pay and if you're running a business you have to charge more because you can't just collect your pay you have to pay for all that equipment you have the cleaning machine the timing machine etc. Then unless you're working retail we typically get the most money if your wholesale well usually that's 50% but not always. So in other words if you took a watch into a jewelry store and it cost you $400 to get your watch serviced and you felt ripped off. The watchmaker only got $200 Of that. The worst-case example what is working downtown was think I can't quite remember they marked up the wholesale it wasn't the typical twice it might have been four times I think that's what it was and in the cost of the repair was the same price at the person paid for the watch brand-new from their buddy at the wholesale house which was selling Seiko watches. And you know whose fault that was that was the greedy **BLEEP** watchmaker who nearly lost her Seiko service account. Yes in the early days independent watchmakers basically ran service center is for the various companies were now they have their own independent shops You should have been at the Christmas party I was at last week a nawcc local chapter Christmas party that had the various president of marketing for a chain of local jewelry stores. Talked about all the watch brands they have the trends and then I got to the end where they talked about the problem. A huge problem that she perceived and they're going to give out more scholarships now to encourage people to get in the watch repair. Not that they're already not trying to read the try to set up some of their own teaching I think in association with the school. Basically they're running scared of the lack of watchmakers means the watch makers are going to cut back even more as a guess. So I think she had a fantasy thought and their thought was more people servicing then hopefully more parts perhaps but she didn't ask you say that. So they want to take an active role in making sure there are enough watchmakers because I'm pretty sure there service center makes a lot of money she was giving numbers and they service hell of a lot of Rolex watches and if they couldn't get Rolex spare parts that would be a huge impact to the business. Unfortunately I have to wonder if they talk to the Swiss about these plans because I think the Swiss one to illuminate everybody who repairs watches. I don't think they care whether a hobbyist or a professional. It's why Rolex has a service center in Texas filled with unskilled labor that just does one little task. Like one person will disassemble watch and it goes in the cleaning machine another person will reassemble another person will lubricate and only if it fails some quality control what go to something that resembles a real watchmaker. Quite a savings not to have to pay skilled people or distribute spare parts all over the place. Not sure this quite compares for instance if you go down to your local auto shop will they let you hang around in the shop? And yes I know you hate this example let's go to the hospital and hang around in the operating room to get a feel for becoming a doctor. A lot of the hobby and artist spaces are well-liked makers spaces they still exist out there yes they encourage people to come and visit but they're not a professional business trying to run and make money. It's kinda hard to do watch work and talk to newbies at the same time. Well it's hard to talk to anybody when you're doing watch work and then you get yelled at by Your boss For talking too damn much but I'm the skip over how I know about that one. Now I give you a quest reach out to all those people who want to know if you do watch work and ask them how much they would pay you to do the watch work? In the early days I remember the jewelry stores were damn cheap cheaper the better. So basically the only way wholesale watch shops can function is out of people's houses preferably in the middle of nowhere where rent costs nothing. Think about it this way you're a collector of watches you have hundreds of them occasionally need to be serviced and you spent so darn much money on those expensive watches you really want to pay somebody to service them? After all you get the oil changed in your car for how much shouldn't to watch repair costs something similar?. Oh and the case you think I'm joking about this is another discussion group out there of collectors who think that? Will it used to be they thought of pocket watch repair I think was between 50 and $100 and a while back somebody was recommended and I think he was like 125 for pocket watch repair and they said he was expensive. So yes watch collectors are really cheap and don't want to pay watchmakers. So it's a really complicated situation of it just complicated and there's going to be no easy solutions Or answers and the parts availability is never going to change. Especially if you understand how parts come into existence anyway and how their distributed. Yes hobby schools really exist but unfortunately you have to be within driving distance of Seattle. http://www.norwestschoolofhorology.com/ Oh and is not just hobby school we have an Association it once was in AWCI chapter but we got annoyed with them and broke free. So meetings that are open to anybody. If you have an interest in watches and clocks and repair and you're within driving distance. http://www.norwestschoolofhorology.com/wwca/index.html
    1 point
  43. These don't need any commentary from me. Enjoy. More examples here. https://www.youtube.com/@Waterpearl_escapement
    1 point
  44. I've got some more Aliexpress items on the way, and not sure if this qualifies for a "tool", but these spring bars a really good deal. I got 100 x 5 different sizes for 500 spring bars delivered (free shipping) for less than $12. They have worked great so far.
    1 point
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