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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/19/22 in all areas

  1. Well I'm also a Chinese tool guy. So I came up with my own idea to deal with these wheels. I made this pair of levers for them only. You can see I got the idea from hand lever. It works no matter how many spokes the odd wheels have. I also made my own hand levers. You could give this a try if you want it really simple
    4 points
  2. Funny you mention, I'm pretty sure my vintage seiko project watch might have those. Haven't opened it up yet but i keep seeing som eof the older 70's and 60's seikos having those. I actually am not entirely sure how to approach those or acrylic crystals and will have to look around for good vids on them. Mos tof the demos i see on acrylic stuff is with a crystal lift which i really hope i don't need. ALso after a day on the wrist and a bit more wind got the timegrapher data in on my second repair and service. I'll take it!
    4 points
  3. There is no Chinese tool for this because as far as I know, the Chinese way of dealing with this is to remove the train bridge with the free wheel attached, then using the fingers to hold the wheels on either side and gently twist the wheel off. I've tried it and it works.
    4 points
  4. Coincidentally, I am wearing one of my 539s today!
    3 points
  5. I only use a crystal lift on crystals that have a straight side, like the GS PHD acrylic high dome. Anything else, I use a press. The technique depends on the type of crystal and bezel, sometimes you support the case and press in and out with one die, sometimes with acrylic crystals you use two dies. One supports the outside of the crystal, and the size is picked so that the crystal rest on the tapered part of the die. Then a smaller die is used that fits inside the crystal. Kind of like a sandwich. The inside die presses the crystal against the taper of the outside die, which compresses the crystal, so that it will lay in the recess. These types of crystals are only caught at the lip. Tension ring crystals are different, they generally have straight or slightly tapered sides that , and are just pressed in or out of the bezel. Held in place mostly by friction. I'm not sure why they are called tension rings, they really are compression rings
    2 points
  6. What is worrying you about this crystal lift Col ? Dont buy the chinese copy as ive heard the jaws can slip. I bought a second hand bergeon that has really good grip,not slipped as yet even with a good amount of force. I dont think it can work with a tension ring though. Something i haven’t had to deal with yet, the tension ring is going to prevent compression.
    2 points
  7. What's cool about it is that it uses standard threaded dies, so you can use the alu type screw in dies with it as well. These are handy when you need to work with tension ring crystals. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/die-sets-threaded-aluminium
    2 points
  8. I had wondered where you would purchase it from. Then I really like hearing these stories because that always opens up possibilities of me finding something like this on eBay. Okay looks like it's about 11 1/2 size let's see if bestfit has anything. Then no you didn't really think it was going to be this easy did you?. As you can see from the image and though I didn't specifically ask for it you need to deal the clearly see all three parts but I snipped out both sections of the book you can see the ones that I've indicated are probably similar. You'll notice there's a star on each of the images some don't have the start the fine print says these watches all have the same setting components but nothing else may possibly interchange perhaps. So it basically narrows us down to a category of Seiko watches that parts may or may not interchange. Well it is confirming what I suspected it's part of a family. More jewels not as expensive as the other one but notice the similarities. It looks like may be the caliber is the name on the dial so perhaps it's a Seikosha Cronos. Which unfortunately still brings up a similar problem of no tech sheets because they probably didn't do tech sheets back then and if they did its can be all in Japanese perhaps and possibly no parts at all because they probably don't have any parts plus of course it's older and anything that gets to be older has parts problems anyway. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125394095183 Once we know what the look for it is one it's 23 jewels https://www.ebay.com/itm/314062957926 Looks like it probably is a Seikosha Cronos Because of you do a search on eBay and notice how it appears to be a seller in Japan the movements are all basically identical except of course the jewel account and at the lower end one like yours a different spring for the balance jewel assembly. But I'm assuming that all the parts probably interchange in that particular family. It looks like as I said they're all part of the family they start adding extra names on number of jewels go up price goes up etc. and it looks like the parts interchange if we could find them perhaps you can see how closely this one matches yours https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2018/02/25/a-wabi-sabi-seiko-cronos-sea-horse-from-1961/ Then on the website above he mentions the mainspring of listing and I'm assuming he means this page notice basically almost no parts available http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_CRONOS By the way did you do a search on this message board? I usually get frustrated with the search but sometimes I rewarded with things like this that I find by searching the Internet. Notice the similarity to your watch? https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/6521-handwind-seiko-cronos-cal54/ If you're lucky Seiko wasn't super creative my understanding is the Japanese like to make things in quantity they don't necessarily like to make things in small quantities. So maybe would find a lot of parts interchangeability's but that doesn't necessarily help. Now why am I saying that because there is a link to the parts site again notice the balance wheel interchanges with the previous balance wheels that's a good sign but do you see the pallet fork bridge listed anywhere? See a lot of parts listed which may or may not be available but a lot of times the bridges are not necessarily available http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_54A Oh did find a reference to a museum if you scroll down far enough you'll see at least the name of your watch unfortunately no movement pictures which isn't the best but it gives a clue of when your watch came from and where https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/museum-seiko-tokyo I'm attaching a PDF notice the setting parts do not match your watch. But I want you to look at the pallet fork bridge carefully and see if it looks at all the similar. This was a suggestion on a different group because basically technical anything for your watch is impossible and someone suggested may be something from this watch might work. It's basically back to my thoughts that may be Seiko doesn't get super creative and uses parts over multiple generations of four lucky or in your case if you're lucky otherwise we're going to have to replace the jewel that got damaged. Then I did find out what this number is it's your serial number. A lot of people posted on groups like the model number but it's not it's the serial number. Then apparently The watch is a simply referred to by Seiko as the "Cronos" caliber, without a number. It came in 3 jewel counts (17, 21, and 23). But on the group I'm currently looking at it looks like parts to interchange with other watches. Conceivably worst-case we might have to if we can find another part just steal the pallet fork bridge jewel if the bridges do not fit. So this should give you enough reading for a little while give you a starting place. 55 Lord Marvel.pdf
    2 points
  9. Sure. I'll be glad to be of help. Or we can create a new thread on how to align a Chinese crystal press. That would be useful to all new member who may have the same issue.
    2 points
  10. Thanks all, I've since found a few youtube videos on the cylinder escapement, really interesting. You learn something new all the time. @ManSkirtBrewthanks for confirming my suspicions regarding "Ebauches Trust" I reckon the watch is probably 1930's now. Done some digging on the history of them and it seems they were a forerunner to what is now ETA with a link to a number of makers back then.
    1 point
  11. Update: Eureka!!! For whatever reason this one worked perfectly but two attempts with the GS would not. Thanks so much for finding this, don't know how I didn't see this version when I was searching on ebay before.
    1 point
  12. Imagining you are in the U.S., you could have bought it for 28 bucks from a real watch supplier http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Synt-A-Lube, and I don't think they would charge 40 bucks for shipping. Even if you ordered from Cousins in the U.K., shipped to the U.S. would probably be less than 67 dollars! Is it at least in original Moebius packaging? I've said this before, but do please try to buy parts and supplies from the actual real watch parts and supplies dealers. They are crucial to the repair industry, and there are fewer and fewer all the time. And, you might find that they are actually cheaper than Ebay or Amazon. Edit- just checked, Borel would be $4.50 for shipping.
    1 point
  13. A lot of it has to do with how the person describes whatever it is they're selling. It becomes quite amusing where people will sell an item that if you look carefully they don't actually quite really describe what it is there selling and then it usually can be had for a really good price. That is providing they can at least get it in the proper category so you can find it in the first place.
    1 point
  14. I don't have this exact model but an earlier version. The quality control was not very good and the top and bottom dies were not properly aligned. This resulted in several broken mineral glass crystals. I removed the upper plate and filed the holes for the pillars to align the axes of the dies properly and now it works fine. The finish quality and materials used are quite good. I never experienced any flexing of the setup, even though the screw press axis is not in line with the pillars. Overall, I think it's good value for money. Provided that any QC lapses can be easily fixed. In general, I would say Chinese tools are 90% OK, 90% of the time. You'll have the 9% which can be corrected with a little effort. And that last 1% is either junk or exceptional.
    1 point
  15. As I mentioned in another thread, I have one of these and it works well enough for me. I have got two or three of the lever types still hanging around, and I never use them. I'd be interested in why someone would have a poor opinion of this tool. It is sturdy enough that the design doesn't seem to be a drawback, I have yet to catch it flexing under load. Having the two screw stages, course for positioning then fine for pressing, is very nice. Then again, I haven't had the pleasure of using any of the really good high end presses. And no, this is not a BB style, that is a lever press. This one resembles a Horotec press. Cheers!
    1 point
  16. I have that closing press, it has worked well enough for me, especially considering the reasonable price. Cheers!
    1 point
  17. Even if you have somebody who's experienced there's a problem? Were still missing some key information at least we got a nice picture of one side but we still need a picture of the other side. Also we need the diameter the movement and for that I've attached a PDF. Typically diameters of movements are not measured in millimeters Okay you measure in millimeters but you look on the chart And then you give us the ligne sizes. Then the reason why we need the dial side is for a time span of I'm not sure how far back and how far into the future went but was a time span where all the setting parts of the watches are unique. So if you have typically a Swiss watch you know the size into what the setting parts look like you can look in the bestfit book an attempt to figure out what watch you. I did look bestfit book has some Seiko watches so may be but even if we identify there is no guarantee of parts because this is a vintage Seiko or be technically correct a vintage pre-Seiko watch. But still it looks like a nice-looking movement it be nice if we could save it. watch-ligne-size-chart.pdf EBay is nice in that with enough research you can find this looks very similar. Dials not exactly the same but movement looks really close. Say goodbye it and take the pallet fork bridge out use it for spare parts. Then yes prices interesting isn't it. It's a problem with the early Seiko watches like this there collectors items and yes there is a very interesting family of Seiko watches some of which there worth way more than this so it's well worth trying to save the one up above and probably not worth Two scrap the one below for parts even if it is identical. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204151166230
    1 point
  18. These are all chinese copies but they work well without breaking the bank. It's what I personally use Bezel remover: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bezel-remover-including-rolex-generics?code=R19381 Crystal Press: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/screw-closing-press-with-even-pressure-spreading-disc
    1 point
  19. I'm afraid not but I do hope someone with more experience in identifying movements will be able to help you out. Anyway, you may still be needing a jewelling tool. Even if the jewel in the bridge is correctly seated it could be that you might need to adjust the depth of the jewel in the main plate (or bridge) to make it work. An affordable jewelling tool is a Chinese clone of Horia's jewelling tool. You can read about it here. Good luck!
    1 point
  20. I agree with Old Hippy do not use the ultrasonic. I just soak the plates in the solution then brush the wheels and the rest go in the rotary cleaner (national) for the same time.
    1 point
  21. Horolene clock cleaner is the one I used many years ago. I understand the one watchweasol mentioned is cheaper both will do the same thing. You mentioned cast brass if it is cast what ever you do do not use one of those ultrasonic cleaners as it can and will cause stress fractures in the brass. What type of clock movement is it?
    1 point
  22. Hi what I use is the PRIORY CLOCK CLEANER. It’s a concentrate ammoniated cleaner and for me does a good job, soak or run on the cleaner for 15 to 20 mins and then brush. Use gloves to protect your hands.
    1 point
  23. After MSB's adventure with this incredibly well designed spring that cant be resprung after its despring. I think i would be giving it a long soak and then some colonic irrigation where its sun dont shine.
    1 point
  24. Guys, I’m so sorry replying a month later, so embarrassing. I don’t get the notification emails anymore that someone replied to a thread I’m following even though I’ve not changed my email or anything as far as I know (as I’m getting older I sometimes do things and I forget I’ve done them). It’s been serviced now and it goes in the case and out of the case no problem at all and it sits inside the case and against the crystal perfectly. It came out of the back. There is a spacer between the dial and the movement that’s removed when the dial is off. The dial rests against the crystal, it doesn’t move when it’s inside so I don’t think there was any need to glue it so I’m not entirely sure what the problem was, I couldn’t see any signs of glue anywhere, I don’t think it was glued but there could have been a tiny dab of CA glue here and there, who knows. Most importantly it’s fine now. Thank you for your help guys and I do apologies for replying so late, I only saw your posts when I went back to this thread to look at the images of the same watch Kalang posted. I wish I was getting the notification emails when people reply to threads I’m following.
    1 point
  25. it depends upon who you are and how much money you have? Normally your answer would be correct but if you look at the modern ETA tech sheets they surface treat just about everything. then there is Omega I snipped out something of one of their working instructions notice the before which we would do if we even used surface treatment then after. This is what you do when you have endlessly deep pockets and just have a heck of a lot of money. So basically with the Omega procedure here are the things that you're not supposed to surface treat otherwise everything else is to be surface treated. then they ask he described two separate processes to do this. Both procedures start off the same when you completed cleaning you remove the limited components below and set them aside. Then one procedure would be to remove the final jar from your cleaning machine and replace it with the surface treatment jar. Or you could have an entire machine just with one jar and the surface treatment. It might seem expensive to have an entire cleaning machine but if you figure out how much this stuff would cost then really having another machine really just isn't going to figure into this at all. Then yes there procedures to do this now every single time the service a watch. Previously they didn't but that's because previously they didn't have these really nice expensive claim machines that do such a really nice job. Otherwise like we know when you look at the ETA tech sheet the parts for all pre-surface treated anyway. 1. Balance (and all the components of the balance) 2. Shock-absorbers (in-settings only, the cap-jewel should be epilame coated) 3. Pallet fork bridge 4. Slipping mainspring 5. Inversion wheels (for the automatic calibres) 6. Calibre 3303/3313 and family: hour-counting wheel 35030 and chronograph wheel 35010 always one of the mysteries of the watch companies is why they do anything? like why use oil with surface treatment when you could use grease and they been doing this for a very long time. They must have some reason why they're doing it may be they have stock in the company that makes surface treatment?
    1 point
  26. Most of the time I'm working on scrap movements. There is no point to replace the oil in the oil cups for such work. I've ordered the Seiko greases and will give them a go. Some watches have not been serviced for more than five years and they are still going well so I guess their greases can't be that bad. I will change the oil in the cups when I work on watches that will be worn but that doesn't happen that often. I will replace the oils when they expire. They don't expire at the same time so it will be £20 here and there now and again. That's not as bad when you pay out £200.
    1 point
  27. Sure. But, first problem is, what is the best? As long one departs from 9010 "fine oil", there is no single answer. Second problem is, some "best" products are 65 GBP or so, before VAT and shipping, as an hobbyist you get a quantity that would last 10 lifetimes, that even before considering the publishing "expiration" date. Understandably, people looks for more reasonably priced alternatives.
    1 point
  28. Welcome to the forum dalarry. :) Most folk on here, myself included fit the assembled balance onto the main plate once it has been completely stripped and then clean it. It can be either rotary wash (Elma type machine), ultrasonically cleaned or carefully rinsed in a jar containing lighter fuel. You would give yourself a lot of extra work having to remove the hairspring from the balance for cleaning, and not everybody has the skills or equipment to reinstall the hairspring and adjust it correctly.
    1 point
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