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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/07/22 in all areas

  1. It seems Sellita have been popping up all over the place for quite a long time, either by pushing eta out of brands they supplied such as Breitling or because eta have been pulling back of their own accord. It nice to hear this young man Sebastian mention a few times that their parts and movements are available to anyone that needs them. After all you purchase something, you should have the right to repair that purchase yourself. Whether its a hoover, a washing machine, a car or a watch. Restricting parts take away that right.
    3 points
  2. Hi probably that was because ETA thought they were bigger than the sum total of their boots. I believe some Rolex models are assembled in China but I would bet that it is not broadcast to the world either.
    2 points
  3. Interesting interview. So most of the ETA movements that we see and work on were actually assembled in a Sellita factory. And when ETA pulled the plug on them in the early 2000s when Swatch started to devise their evil plans to take over the world. Sellita pulled up their big boy pants, grew some, invested some serious cash and developed parts manufacturing based on old Patent expired ETAs that they had already been putting together for over 50 years. Well done Sellita Strange that nothing i have read about ETA has suggested that Sellita put their parts together for them, not by name anyway. I wonder why that is ETA ?
    2 points
  4. An interesting Q&A video with Sébastien Chaulmontet of Sellita in which he answers an assortment of questions about Sellita. Worth a watch, especially if you think Sellita is a just a subpar clone ETA.
    1 point
  5. Good day everyone So, after practicing reassembly on a non working Seiko 7S26A with a dial foot lodged in the centre wheel, including rewinding (and breaking) a kinked mainspring, losing diafix cap jewels, and reinstalling a balance complete, I obtained two working movements from speedtimerkollektion., both 7S26A. The first was advertised as "the movement runs and stops." Turns out the hands were bent downwards and the second hand was blocked by a dial index. Once that was popped off, the balance wheel swung back into life. I put it on my newly acquired timegrapher: Found the readings varied somewhat depending on gain setting. Compared it with the app WatchTuner so decided to settle on this reading. Decided to attempt my first ever service. The parts were in worse shape than the previous non working 7S26 with crud and rusted areas. Cleaned the parts with rodico, pegwood, and pithwood before ultrasonic cleaning in jars with Petroleum Ether, Propanol, and 2nd rinse Propanol (3 min each). Cleaned the pallet fork and balance by soaking in a jar of Hexane. My little 1L 55W cleaner struggles to remove all the gunk and rust. Placed a few parts in white vinegar for a few hours to remove the worst of the rust. Definitely have to work on my cleaning technique given what I'm seeing under the microscope. Some screws are still discoloured. Reassembled and oiled using 9010, 9104, 9415 and 9504. Used S-4 on the first reduction wheel and pawl lever. Used notched pegwood to reinstall the diafix springs and a balance taper pin to oil the assembled diafix setting from the other side. My Chinese automatic oiler arrived with a bent needle that promptly broke so I am awaiting a new needle. I left the mainspring barrel well alone since it was winding and unwinding normally (unlike the previous practice movement). So this is the result without any regulation (which I have yet to delve into). I've got the second working 7S26A to practice on then a complete Seiko 5 7S26A watch I picked up on Yahoo Japan auctions. Will work on these before any of my own 7S26 or 6R15 watches. So after the Chinese ST36 (6497 clone) (a true victim) and two 7S26As, I wanted to try my hand at hairspring manipulation, balance staff replacement, jewel adjustment etc. Turns out Seiko Ladies tiny form movements are not popular with collectors. I obtained two working 1104A watches on Yahoo Japan Auction (for just 639 yen each) and nine non working 1104A movements from speedtimerkollektion (for about 1.50 to 2.50 USD each). Got some NOS spare parts so have some good practice material to work with. This is the first one I've started to disassemble. About the size of an American dime and older than I am.
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. Thanks! And now that I see your pictures I remember well what the backside looked like. Indeed, and a truly great thing about making mistakes is that we can learn so much from them!
    1 point
  8. It wasn't a case of Sellita pushing ETA out, but the other way around. Brands like Breitling and Tag Heuer no longer had access to ETA movements so switched over to Sellita. In fact, I'm working on one right now. You'll also notice the question asked about the chewed up ratchet wheel issue on the Sellita movements and Sebastian dismissing it as an issue that's been resolved "almost 10 years ago". Well no sir, I have a 2016 Seliita SW200.1 with a chewed up ratchet wheel right in front of me. Take a gander over at Cousins and you'll see that ratchet wheel is a "Best Seller". Outside of that, I really do like the Sellita movements. Even on their base SW200.1 the main spring barrel arbour holes are jewelled - I can't remember that being the case on the ETA 2824-2 (although I haven't worked on one in a while)
    1 point
  9. Something I found interesting in it is that they design and build movements for companies. Pity they can’t name them because of NDA. Tom
    1 point
  10. @VWatchie observe the offensive little turd of a wheel. First pic is the top of it, as you have it on your pictures And the bottom. Note that it's not flat but has a concave opening And the area where it sits - you'll notice the raised edge where the wheel sits. You'll see the problem if you were to install it upside down like a certain someone...
    1 point
  11. Welcome to the form enjoy. The fact that is runs indicates there is very little wrong apart from a service, possible the auto wind is not fully winding the watch.
    1 point
  12. Lubrication is always interesting subject. Just think of all the money you saves you didn't have to buy brand-new. If you were doing professional watch work and someone was paying you money and the lubrication failed And the watch failed you would probably be unhappy when you had angry customer come back. On the other hand if you're doing this as a hobby who cares? If you look at the original advertisements for both 9010 and 9020 they basically indicated way back when it came out it synthetic it should last forever. If you go to website now you'll see that it doesn't last forever it expires. But even the expiring is interesting because that fresh bottle last X number years and you lubricate a watch it will go X number years beyond that so basically there's suggesting the shelf life but the usable life is twice whatever that it's on the blog. Unless of course are hobbyist and you just don't care I wouldn't worry about it. But of course there is always the warning of there is always a possibility of something bad happening. Less likely with synthetic oils Vintage models of oil are always nice because they look nice where they can look nice. There are also worthy of trying an experiment seeing if they still work. If you look carefully at some of the literature you'll find that the natural oils the whale oils for instance are actually better lubricants in the synthetic oils but you have an unfortunate problem of going back very bad but at least with a typically go bad they get sticky and stop the watch before it disintegrates itself. When synthetic oils go bad they typically just spread themselves superthin and no longer are lubricating aphids of metal on metal bearing something might just disintegrated. So like a lot of things you accumulate from ancient watchmakers visually they look interesting and that makes them a conversation piece.
    1 point
  13. اخي في مسنات رفاع كتير اسمن بروتش بالانكليزي دور علين بس انتبه انت وعم تشتغل وماسك القطعة ما تنحني او تنطعج او يتغير شكلا لأنك بتصير بمشكلة اصعب من المشكلة الاولى. There I answered in Arabic, I hope I did a good job explaining thinfs since I don't really use Arabic when talking about watches.
    1 point
  14. Watched that a week or so ago. It is really interesting and does rather clear up some of the myths. Tom
    1 point
  15. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. If you wear it in the day time and take it off at night it should still be working the next morning. Numerous things could cause this to not work properly the most common is I expect it needs a good service, which involves taking the complete movement apart cleaning it oiling and greasing and putting it on a watch timing machine. There might also be parts that need replacing but one doesn't know until it is taken apart and a full inspection is carried out.
    1 point
  16. OK, you need to determine the end game. Are you training on this watch? Is this an heirloom? Does this belong to your best friend for life? These are important questions for an amateur watchmaker--which I am. If this is a learner watch. Go for all the possible methods and see what work for the next REAL repair. If this is an heirloom. Let the screw remain in place and move on. If this is for your friend (and you are doing this as a favor with no compensation), leave the screw alone. If someone is paying you $1000 to service this watch, well, yeah...first buy a donor, and then get cleaver to see what works--but the end of the day...leave it alone! Don't let perfection be the enemy of the good.
    1 point
  17. But not under EU law which is why swatch can do as they please. But then neither are we now. Can we all club together and build a watch factory ? We can call our brand the # FRIENDS of the FORUM SOCIÈTÈ # or FFS for short. Who would like to see FFS stamped on a watch movement ?
    1 point
  18. I found some pictures so you can see the missing arm and other styles that have different arm arrangements. Usually the arm stays with the tool because it's held in place with the screw. In one of the pictures there's something on the left-hand side it's a bit fuzzy though. At the end of it is a slot that slot goes over the rim of the balance wheel allowing you to straighten out your balance wheel and true things. Typically that gets separated from the caliper and is never seen again. Which is why When you typically find the truing calipers you will not find that because nobody associates that with the truing caliper.
    1 point
  19. 6119 are my favourite, easy to work on and the only problem with these is they are so reliable that they do not get scheduled maintenance. Most of the wear I see is in the barrel pivots so check this. Apart from water damage, any other wear or damage is due to previous mishandling, I have come across several watches where the hairspring needed tweaking. The big balance helps with good timekeeping compared to later models. I don't like the the 7xxx range as they are cheaply built. Anilv
    1 point
  20. My eye catching blue dialled Limit branded Tissot 2030 quartz mechanism watch. The same caliber was uses in the Tissot Seastars from this period (around 1977). If you want to know a little more about the Tissot 2030 caliber, click the link -> https://www.crazywatches.pl/tissot-seastar-2030-quartz-1977
    1 point
  21. This is very helpful - has a bit more detail than the other docs I have. So - we now have this movement being equivalent to the Cartier 81, Ebel 81, Frederic Piguet 8.20 and the Piaget 820P :). I am still very surprised by the cleaning instructions in the Piaget document. They explicitly state that you can clean the main plate conventionally. But I am certain that there is an insulator between the battery strap screw tubes and the main plate. I cannot imagine they would not be substantially damaged by watch cleaning solutions. This movement requires the + side of the battery to be placed down and make direct contact to the main plate. So the strap is negatively charged and must be insulated from the main plate. I am curious if anyone here has actually cleaned one of these in a cleaning machine. I am heavily leaning towards my prev thought which was to clean the main plate in my water-based jewelry ultrasonic instead of the Watchmaster.
    1 point
  22. I am attaching the technical brochure which has some information on cleaning. 820p.pdf
    1 point
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