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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/22 in all areas

  1. Cousins do sell assorted bridge screws : https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/screws-wristwatch-movement I bought the mixed selection they sell. It contains a good mixture from very small to bridge screws. Some are new, some obviously removed from movements. They have save me many times.
    2 points
  2. Recently there were several rants about the dreaded 3 pronged Russian shock spring. I have done quite a number of Russian movements but never had much problem with the shock springs until a couple of days ago. This Slava 2427 had the most uncooperative shock springs that I have ever come across. Just cleaning and oiling the two balance jewels took me almost an hour. I think it was a combination of a stiff shock spring and badly polished shock spring seats. I could get 2 prongs in but after that, the friction was so great that it became impossible to turn the last prong after it was pressed into the notch. It was then that I decided to make a tool to fit the shock spring in. My mentor described how to make this tool to me several years but I never made one as I never had much problems with shock springs before. It is rather simple. The tube was taken from an old spring bar and expanded slightly to fit the hole in the shock spring seat. Three shallow notches were made in the rim of the tube to catch the 3 prongs of the shock spring. The notches must be shallow, so that the tube can depress the prongs. It only took me 15 minutes to make the tool and using it to fit the shock spring is a real godsend. If any of our members have problems refitting these 3 pronged springs, I strongly advise making this tool.
    2 points
  3. Alright! First results are in. I got the watch assembled and everything is working and it's not the disaster I expected. I haven't regulated it or adjusted it yet, i wsa just really hoping to see that 270 amplitude and it's not quite there. It is worth noting i lubed it assembled it and threw it on the timegrapher immediately. I've heard you're supposed to let it run overnight and to get all the juices and lube spread around to all the places they're supposed to be before taking a proper amplitude reading. Is that true? ALso due to the locking issues i was having. i got a feeling my escapement lube job got totally screwed up, i was thinking of cleaning and relubing it. That might be dragging down my amplitude. https://www.dropbox.com/s/z5hb5oex5snoxh1/VID_20221120_234721.mp4?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/1wka2ca5xje76r7/VID_20221120_231247.mp4?dl=0 If not, what you guys think? It's an unopened barrel that is probably i dunno 10 years old? Should i try swapping it out for a new one or is this what you would expect from a 10 years or maybe even older mainspring. Got it on the grey market from singapore so who knows it's history. Either way this was a non runner, this is my first attempt at anything watchmaking and it's running! It's not perfect but i'm pretty damn pleased.
    2 points
  4. New macro focus rail. 18 images focus-merged. Didn't think about the fact that the second sweep and minute hand would move during the 18 separate exposures (so a quick edit to replace the whole second hand dial).
    2 points
  5. Well i'm really glad i took apart the entire calendar works to get the spacer off which was blocking my view and then half the watch to only find out that the bridge prevented the view anyways lol. Oh well, i cleaned and degreased my escapement, my microscope arrives today and it will be a great way to test it out, relubing the escapement. I really do love this. It's so zen. Now that so many things are becoming second nature just tinkering and doing assembly and disassembly stuff is just really relaxing.
    1 point
  6. Good amplitude doesn't cut it for this group it has to be outstanding amplitude or else that's the problem. I know people that work at the Swatch group service center. For anything like this they automatically just replace all the escapement components they don't even try to troubleshoot slightest hint of anything infinite supply of parts new escapement components. Then as far as regulation goes despite having detailed specifications like for Omega they only sort of fall of this. The words there given a window the watch has to do between this and this and all they have to do is hit the window and move on they do not regulate for zero seconds. It out even try to get close to zero seconds they just regulate the window and they go on. So basically when you look at anything related the amplitude by the watch companies they're not concerned with a minimum amplitude or death they just don't what have too much amplitude and then they're concerned about amplitude at 24 hours but they're much more concerned about timekeeping. Of course if you have no amplitude are limited amplitude it 24 hours you usually have bad timekeeping is not ignoring the issue but that's not their obsession. That if you look at some of the modern specifications though basically say that the majority the watches will fall into this group a certain percentage will fall out which of the range so I'm guessing they only spot check a few of the watches and by percentages some watches will be farther out of range than the rest. I snipped out a image for you it comes from an internal Elgin watch company document dated about 1955 it's a nice book that explains how to give factory visits. It's divided into sections casual visitors versus jewelry store owners versus I think watchmakers in other words you get more and more technical stuff. There is a lot of overlap unfortunately no pictures it would've been nice to have pictures but no pictures just Words. Now why am I giving you this well let's read through amplitude specifications. They did have a timing machine that measured rate so they would look at the rate of the watch but notice on the amplitude they basically visually look at it and look at the turns that the balance wheels making. Then yes I always find turns confusing versus amplitude I'll let you figure out what a turn is. So you'll notice too much amplitude they put a weaker mainspring and. Then yes if you look in the Elgin parts book at one time they did have watch mainsprings that were weaker than the regular spring. Even Rolex had variations in mainsprings strength if they perceive there were issues. But notice what happens if they don't have enough amplitude somebody gets to look at the watch and possibly adjust the escapement.
    1 point
  7. As you've already noticed a Seiko watch is basically impossible to see. But then you have a timing machine put it on the timing machine gently push the stud holder that's holding the stud not the stud itself just push it a tiny bit in one direction look at the numbers did they go up or down. You want the numbers to go down towards zero. Simple just don't go past zero then they go up again and definitely don't move a big amount or you go right past it and be really confused.
    1 point
  8. 250 is fine for a 7s26. Stop agonising over it. Rather spend some time sorting out the beat error. Remove the balance, remove pallet bridge, remove pallet fork, place back pallet bridge, place back balance. Look through the side of the movement, past the balance staff at the pallet bridge. Move stud so the impulse pin is hidden behind the balance staff. That’ll get you close on getting the beat error close. reinstall pallet fork and fine tune the stud to get the beat error right. You’ll probably see an improvement in amplitude
    1 point
  9. Something like a lathe spindle would be precision ground (and probably lapped) between centers. Then, on machines with soft bearings, the spindle would be used as the marking master to blue the bearing, and it would indeed be hand scraped. Not in every case, but in many.
    1 point
  10. If you look on Jules Borel database, the date jumper is common to lots of movements. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=e[_FWF The base movement is AS 1711. If you search Cousins, they have the date jumper in stock :
    1 point
  11. They are all metric, so if there's no particular pitch callout they will be standard. You can find the pitches on Asco-Schurch (tap drill diameters for steel and brass as well).
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. FYI - I found a resource on Jules Borel's website. They have a number of catalogs at this link. One of them is their Horological Catalog which shows screws on pages 203-207. They have more choices than on their online listings.
    1 point
  14. Hope it goes well. Now sleep sunshine, I'm your acting dad. God help you
    1 point
  15. This may be a shot in the dark, but would you happen to have a die plate (for threading screws) that you could use to measure the tap size of the stem? It will give us a number we can use. I could dig through my store of old crowns. Yours will be trapezoidal ("pumpkin" as opposed to "onion"). I got to thinking, if you had the tap and die set, then you would probably know to locate a large enough crown to tap to size. Oh well. Either way, it can be done. If a crown can be found that is a good fit for the pendant and its sleeve, it can be tapped to the correct thread size if need be. I have done it before.
    1 point
  16. Oh the other thing to remember for beat error is depending upon the watch sometimes it's easier to take all the power off and visually adjusted so it's really close and then wind it back up again and use the timing machine. What we can't have zero the world will come to an end. That is looking for a reference because yes beat here is extremely not really important sort of. So looking at the Omega document I have says typically 0.6 for most of them in a couple were 0.8 and I thought I had something related the Rolex around here would've they have to say about this okay they are 0.8. So for anything else basically under 2 ms should be fine.
    1 point
  17. You can show us a picture ov the case.
    1 point
  18. For a movement running at 21600, 246° amplitude, 5.3ms beat error equates at an angular error of about 12° at the adjuster. So more than a tiny tweak. Don't worry about getting it exactly zero. If you get more than 6-7ms error, the lines on the display "wrap round", so you can get the lines on top of each other but be way out in beat error.
    1 point
  19. I did some research a while back on the connection between them. If i remember rightly Wittnauer became Wittnauer- longines, but were not part of Longines. Wittnauer was just a major importer of Longines for a long time. I'm guessing they allowed Wittnauer to use their name to promote both brands. £1.99 quite handy sometimes having no dial labelling. Nice lugs. Ah refreshed my memory . Wittnauer was bought in 1936 by Hella Deltah a pearl company of all things. The name was changed to Longines-Wittnauer due to Wittnauer's very long dealings with Longines but apparently a seperate company to and not owned by Longines. Sources say subsidiaries of Longines-Wittnauer were VC and Le coultre. Sold again in the 60s and then to Bulova in the 90s now owned by Citizen. Crazy
    1 point
  20. That's what I thought - the bushing was missing. But looking at pics of similar movements, they look the same. Here's a pic from WatchGuy's site : Hence my question of what supports the arbor top.
    1 point
  21. Hi Ammar, You have spotted the fault, completely worn out or missing the mainplate bushing. Your local watch maker might source you the bush. Rgds
    1 point
  22. Hi Rustin. I cant help you so far as knowing much about seiko designs and as WW says there doesn't not seem to be any tech sheets. Until someone chimes in that knows this specific movement i can only suggest ideas. You only have a few parts here so shouldn't be too difficult, but based on the assumption that you do have all that are required. My usual approach when i have something like this is to determine each part's physical function and how the parts interact with each other. Each part will have a specific roll, whether that is to push, pull, or rotate something else to reach an end goal function. There are only so many orientations a part can have, some will make it fit and some wont, some will bring about its roll and some wont. Trial and error can work but depending on the amount of collective combinations there are will effect how long it will take to try all of them. But that wont teach you anything nor will it instill in your memory how you did it should you need to do it again. Figure out logically each part's function one at a time working from the base function end. Some parts will be obvious, sometimes you have to forward think a bit like chess, a few steps ahead. You will get there in the end. Hopefully you have all the correct parts, take nothing for granted in watch repair. Manufacturers can have some unusual design features. And yes, I didn’t figure out how original date wheel worked, but it didn’t have spring inside. Or it was lost, and not there when I opened the movement. I don’t have tech sheet so it is a guess work for me now. Hi rustin. Ive left you a message on your previous post. Somehow i intergrated it into youc post its just above here somewhere. Dont ask me how i just did
    1 point
  23. Actually I would call that the spectacular improvement. As far as having the calendar works installed with the really worrying about is timing when it's driving the calendar consents going to drop the amplitude conceivably a little bit. Usually a find a lot of watch shops once the watch the base watches running it goes on the timing machine and then if it passes deployment hairy then you can start adding in things like calendars automatics etc. you don't want to find your having a timing issue and then have to take the watch apart again. The word micro adjustments is bothering me. I'm attaching an image out of the tech sheet. Unfortunately it's not entirely that simple sometimes but one of them is for timekeeping and the stud is for the beat. The problem is because they're layered on top of each other sometimes moving one will move the other so you have to move on then readjust the other one possibly. Goss after a careful of the timekeeping the regulator pins because that can rotate so can the stud and you don't want to rotate those when you're pushing the arms. All of that can be sort of found on page 17 of the PDF I previously attached. So you should build a easily adjust the beat down to very close to zero. As a reminder unlike time regulation where you have plus and minus you do not have plus and -4 beat. So if you're not careful you can go right past zero and end up on the other side and have no idea that you've done that at all. So it's best to slowly push it in one direction and see what happens in a disco really slowly. Oh and then regarding your timing machine use. As it mentioned in the tech sheet timing and more than one position. For troubleshooting purposes you always want to look at both dial positions down and up for instance they should be identical or very close to that otherwise you have a pivot or jewel issue. Then if it's a wristwatch at the bare minimum you should have crown down or whatever it said in the tech sheet I think it's a three position checking. It's nice to do it more for troubleshooting issues problems don't always occur in one position only.
    1 point
  24. Yeah the nh36 would be the equivalent, I also find it interesting they test without the calender works installed. I tested with the thing fully assembled minus the hands/dial. That is all very interesting though, thanks. I will still probably relube the escapement just because I might as well get everything right to the best of my abilities and i'm sure that's borked from the lockup issues I was having. If you think i should be content with 250ish amplitude after the escapement relube i'm pretty eager to get this thing back on my wrist. I adore this watch. And i'm pretty sure i do know micro adjustments of the beat error lever. If there's anything else you specifically want me to keep in mind by all means lay it on me. Also here's the before and after of the thing. Yes I'm aware i didn't have the lift angle set when I took that. I'd call that a pretty big improvement.
    1 point
  25. One of the problems with Seiko tech sheets are the lack of the specifications. As far as I know There's only one Seiko tech sheet that actually mentions what the amplitude should be after servicing and it's not 270° or even 300° Seiko watches are famous for low amplitude. So if we don't have Seiko specifications for Seiko watch what to do well easy let's get some Seiko specifications Seiko has an OEM division let's see what's equivalent to your watch Looks like the NH 36 should be equivalent. So when you look at the specifications you notice the obsession with amplitude well it's not there at all sort of. Typically for the watch companies there's an obsession with timekeeping. The closest thing you get the amplitude on the specifications of this watch is it supposed to run for 41 hours. Then yes that actually is a test that service center is due for a variety of watches is they wind them up and they let him run until he stopped to make sure they actually will run the required amount of time. Typically if a watch company does published specifications on amplitude all Will give you is it shouldn't typically be over 300° although it depends upon the watch. Then at 24 hours in a certain position it should be 200° but I've seen some watches will go as low as 160° typically the low amplitude is For Omega watches they will tolerate much lower amplitudes. But they still have very exacting timekeeping specifications. Oh and I assume you do know how to adjust the beat error? https://www.timemodule.com/en/index.php NH36_TG.pdf
    1 point
  26. Oh and I know the obsession is with amplitude nothing less than 300° or death. But what about the beat it might be nice if you nudge that much closer to zero it's a little on the high side and that could be an issue even for amplitude. Then out of curiosity did you see the 270° mentioned in the service guide anywhere? Did you know before these newfangled timing machines watchmakers would just put the watch right on the timing machine is a didn't have amplitude to worry about they just at paper tape coming out with the graphical display. Then watch companies usually have timing procedures to follow like wind the watch up to wait 15 minutes to about an hour it depends on whose procedure you follow. Then yes fresh lubrication on the escapement needs to run a little bit but certainly not 24 hours.
    1 point
  27. Here's an example of an escapement model for training purposes. As you can see brand-new from the Swiss with an interesting price. But it's not actually my favorite design for an escapement model. http://www.wostep.ch/en/boutique# Then this isn't exactly what I was looking for either but if you had a 3-D printer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3364860 Then while you're on the site do a search like the link below. Look at all the nifty stuff you could make if you'd a 3-D printer. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Escapement&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant Then typically when I think escapement model I think of something that's features in a book. This book to be exact Know the Escapement Hardcover – by Sarah & Homer A. Barkus (Author). I also found a nice picture for you which I've attached this was a very popular and may still be very popular training aid used in schools. Sometimes the book is sold with the model other times you'll find just the bottle all by itself and then a course the book can be purchased sometimes all by itself do yes some of the books do have a raised image of an escapement on the cover others are just a plain cover.
    1 point
  28. Yes. That would be so much better than printing barrel closers.
    1 point
  29. Never be embarrassed to say you’ve made a mistake and things are your fault. We're all human watchie and it happens to the best of us. Admitting fault never hurts honor only enforces to show that you have plenty of it. Pleased to hear you've sorted it out and happy to have you back matey
    1 point
  30. Hi khan, Its due to excessive side shake on barrel arbour, which in turn is caused due to worn bushings in the mainplate or barrel bridge or the arbour itself is worn thin. I remove just the ratchet wheel and check the barrel arbour's side shake, you should feel almost zero side shake. Good luck pal.
    1 point
  31. No problem, i always try to encourage folk that have a passion for anything and to become the best version of themselves in their endeavours. The world is becoming a harsh place, a few words to make it seem less so takes no effort. Everyone here is helpful and considerate towards each other, as it should be. Keep doing what you enjoy doing and post up your projects for help and to help other members. That is what this forum is all about, that and making each other smile and laugh.
    1 point
  32. Thank you all for the super valuable help. I have finally figured it out this morning. There was a microscopic string of fiber between the wheel and the finger which cause friction when the screw was tightened. I have now completed my first full service for a Seiko 5 gifted to me by my father when I graduated high school. Brought new life to this almost 40 years old watch. I am super happy for being able to complete this project. Now to my next project, a Hamilton 992b. Ronen
    1 point
  33. I found something you might find interesting not a joke
    1 point
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