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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/22/22 in Posts
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3 points
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Could we get a picture of the inside of the back so I can see the case numbers. With the numbers if I'm lucky I can look up and find out what the crystal supposed to be and if were really lucky we might get a drawing of the case but usually not on the older stuff but still might have a case parts list perhaps.3 points
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Thought I'd share a couple of my 404 club successes, as I'm finding these harder to find. Both of these came in a job lot from the Channel Islands. The Junghans was in the worst shape, missing it's stem and a previous owner had tinkered with it as a number of parts were loose. Luckily nothing was broken, and it was my first go at fitting a stem and crown which I'm quite pleased about. The Systema keeps great time, I like the little space rocket motif. Again someone had been tinkering inside.2 points
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Hi NEW Might have been better using solder paste which has flux/solder together and melts very well. I also use solder chips. and flux with the dial foot machine The dial foot machine uses a "cold" soldering technique or micro arc welding by creating an arc at the point where the two parts meet. https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrIQ2eY5dpifAsAxiB3Bwx.;_ylu=Y29sbwMEcG9zAzQEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3Ny/RV=2/RE=1658541593/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.dirkfassbender.de%2fdial-feet-soldering-machine.html/RK=2/RS=joEmERBx2rwJpIQk1hbkYxQ8V6U- This site has all the details. I actually built my own machine and it works just great.2 points
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No they're meant to come apart there won't be any recalibration. I assume you've read the entire manual and paid attention to all the things you're not supposed to do?2 points
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It's good that you found it on your website the website I checked sucked it doesn't listed at all. Couldn't even look up the crystal number which I found was weird1 point
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Haha. Theres watchmakers and theres watchmakers. I get that in my game, "can you just come and have a look at ..... it only needs a little adjustment". Yeah right little adjustment, "who the fook left you with this fooking mess" i ask. Haha. Dare i ask. You are my bloody hero mate. Ps where you at next week lol.1 point
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That does help Tom thank you. I did have similar thoughts regarding the strength of the fluxed solder. It did melt very fast, tbh that is all i had at a small size of wire. It seems to have worked ok and dressed up quickly with it being softer. I will see how the bond is, hopefully ok as the solder has pulled completely through the pin to the other side. The low melting point was a bit of an issue, difficult to control the amount being fed. Heating the underside would have slowed this down. Thanks Tom So here we have the part dressed back and cleaned up. The solder has stood up to the rigors of being gripped by the pin and rubbed around for a good half an hour on increasing grit wet and dry. In the picture you can clearly see the solder surrounding the broken portion of the pin in the centre. The fitting will give the final opinion of success. Next time i think i will go with a non cored higher silver content solder. Experiment is the name of my game.1 point
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Sorry, no. I don't know much about this clock. I bought it off eBay just after the start of the pandemic. I had too much time on my hands and proceeded to restore it. It was pretty straightforward, nothing tricky. There wasn't much wear on the pivots or plates. But you'll need a clock mainspring let-down tool and a mainspring winder. The springs in a 30 day clock can be a killer (literally). But I know of a video on YouTube of a similar Chinese movement. I know our resident clock expert on WRT, @oldhippy, will probably freak out if he watches this video again. Just remember not to follow what you see in the video.1 point
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Are we talking about two separate watches here? I just seeing pictures of an Omega I don't see the Elgin? Possibly a broken staff definitely needs to be cleaned and probably a mainspring. Is this going to be Your first watch or would you like a suggestion of something safer to start with?1 point
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I also use autosol. It was mentioned in a de carle book. I Have tried other things as well, bicarbonate powder not as effective and also eucryl toothpowder which does actually work ok. But the Autosol is by far the best and is very comparable to polywatch, in fact i couldnt tell the difference. I start with 600 grade wet and dry depending on how deep the scratches then 200 grit increments up to 2000 and then finish with Autosol. A crystal generally takes about 20 mins to half an hour depending how bad the scratches.1 point
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Thank you SO much for all the feedback! I've ordered a couple more of the same movements so now I'm going to apply what I learned from those first ones to these new ones. Slow and steady and lots of pictures. I'm absolutely LOVING this "hobby" (I feel like its not really the right word for it because it feels like more then a hobby but until I think of a better word...) and I will definitely be coming back here with all my questions. Yesterday I took apart a lot of the springs and tiny pieces that go flying off for the first time and I was actually able to get them back in place. To me that felt HUGE! Thank you again and I look forward to learning from all of you in the future!!1 point
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Another flea market find. Caught my eye. Only $1 US, and the band was an additional $1. It's a 1960s Elgin with an automatic 17 jewel 859 movement. Not very rare or valuable as I understand, but it was the only thing at that booth which I was interested in. All others were the kind of cheap quartz watches you could get in a crane game. It runs! Very well! And keeps time! I am growing attached to it.1 point
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I think I can relate to that! (Sorry, I just had to get it out!)1 point