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So here it is. I couldnt wait to post this as I'm over the moon with it. I've wanted one since i started collecting. Would you believe i asked the universe for it ( the right way ) two weeks ago. So a couple of weeks ago i was at n.cave e.yorks carboot talking to a guy about watches . He had a couple of non descript clocks that i wasn't interested in but i asked if he had any watches. He said no not with him but at home he had a w.w.w. ( very large clue as to what is coming )wristwatch that he had had fixed but had broke again. I asked if he wanted to sell it and if so bring it in two weeks time when i come back up this way to see my sister. He said ok. He told me it had a blackface and he thought it was an Ingersoll. I wasn't aware Ingersoll made www watches and had never seen one so i thought maybe he's mistaken. So anyway keen to go back yesterday morning, i mooched around the carboot for an hour taming my anxiety and excitement ( i dont like to rush a universal gift, its not respectful and can get taken away as quickly as its given ). In doing that i also picked up a lovely 404ish clock. Eventually i made my way over to the guy's inside stall. Now then matey how's you i said , gud he replied, I've brought you something. He searched through a carrier and i was thinking it cant be much of a watch to chuck it in a carrier bag. A minute of searching and i thought hes forgot it never mind. Ahha he says pulls it out and hands it to me ( the watch ) . I look at it and look at him. Then I look at it, and I look at it , and then I look at it some more. Oh crap its a w10 military watch. He tells me the mainspring has gone, i said no it hasn't, its just fully wound. Have a look inside he said if you want. I had taken a screwback remover a loupe and a piece of rodico with me. I undid the back and peered inside. Its a Record i said, oh at least i know what it is now he said. I had a little prod with the rodico, unfortunately one of the staff pivots had broken, the top one. I said what do you want for it, he gave me his price I'm not saying how much but it was cheap. I said no i cant give you that, so he came down a tenner. I said no i cant give you that either. He said I'm not taking any less that that for it, i said i know your not, your going the wrong way. He looked at me confused, i said take your first price and double it. He looked at me even more confused. Mate its worth more than double what you want , I've got to fix it but I'm happy with that if you are. He wouldn’t take double and we settled in the middle. I gave him his money, we chatted for 15 mins and then shook hands, before i left he said i think i have a couple of pocket watches at home, ill bring them next week, if you come again you can have them. Wow Universe what have i done to deserve your praise. So here it is. As far as i can tell up to now. Its a redialled record dirty dozen (possibly). The movement is the same as the Record DD, the dial serial number relates to the Record. I have yet to date it yet but the movement 022K according to ranfft started being manufactured in the 1920s. Anyone that has some serious knowledge on military watches, i would be so grateful for any help working out what i have here. Here it is i absolutely love ❤ it .

Without Youtube, or should I say the Internet, I would never have gotten into servicing/repairing. So I guess you're right about that. Nevertheless, it wasn't that I just happened to see one of those watch repair videos that got me started. It was a strong inner urge to be able to service a watch (long story) that drove me to actively research the Internet for information about it. Being well over 50 years old, having young kids, and doing fairly well in my profession, going to a watch school just wasn't an option (something I mourn quite a lot). I remember watching some of the videos on the Watch Repair Channel but having zero knowledge of watch repair, those videos basically just made me feel intimidated and confused. I should say that these days with all the knowledge I have obtained over the years I appreciate the Watch Repair Channel immensely and there's basically only one other repairer that I respect as much as Mark and perhaps even more. That repairer has a member name on this forum being a combination of one transition metal and one precious metal Eventually, I found a Youtube channel named "Ratfaced git". It was hosted by a retired car mechanic named Dan. Naturally, his approach was much that of a car mechanic, rather than that of a skilled and experienced watch repairer. Dan hardly knew the names of parts, didn’t care much and was proud of it. It inspired me endlessly and gave me - at that time a complete mechanical idiot - the courage to try it myself on one of those Vostok movements that could be had on eBay for a few dollars. Honestly, without those videos, I’m not sure my interest would have taken off and that I would be writing this post. I have now taken several online courses and I have some of the books by Fried and DeCarle, and I have learned tons on this forum, but without that retired car mechanic, I'm not sure that would have happened. Have I butchered any watches? Well, butchered is a strong word, but to be honest, some of the watches that I have been working on would likely have been better off in the hands of a pro. For that, I apologise to the watch gods and the pros. Yes, they all make it look so easy, don't they? Complete and perfect service and repair of a Rolex 3135 in under 40 minutes, and for that, "the pros have the audacity to charge $500 or more". Having some personal experience of what it takes to just service a watch without doing any repairs, I'm personally amazed that the pros can even survive at those rates, but I guess they're really good at what they're doing. Nevertheless, I think these Youtube videos are great for promoting watches in general and that means more people will want to have "a real watch" and that is a good thing for the trade on the whole. Sure, some of those affordable vintage watches will be butchered in the process, and however sad that is, there are millions and millions of them out there. And, although there's a lot of ooohing and ahhhing in the comment sections, I rarely see comments where people express that the video gave them the confidence to service/repair the family heirloom themselves.

Nice work! The general rule is for truing "in the round", correction is done at 90 degrees to the max error; truing "in the flat" correction is made at 180 degrees to max error. In your case there are bends next to bends, so keep those rules in mind but work as each case demands. Work from inside out. Pretty sure you'll save this spring!

Well I now appear to have a working display on my Hi Fi amp (aka my Yamaha DSP -A970 Digital Sound Field Processing Amplifier). My cheap from China display works. There are however, still a couple of issues I need to resolve. The original display has slightly different dimensions, so I am thinking of 3d printing an adaptor for it. It is currently fitted with one screw, some tape and a tie wrap. Its perfectly secure of course. Also the backlight supply needs wired to the original switched supply, as currently the backlight remains on, even when the amp goes in to standby. I may also check the old display as it may only be a failed tungsten filament backlight that is making that unusable, in which case an LED or two might fix that, and I can re-fit the original with no 3d printed adaptor required.

And the answer is!!!!!

Whatever strange behavior happens in its present state means little or nothing. Only after it has been cleaned to perfection, all parts inspected and found to be good at least, then put back and lubricated correctly, you will be able to make meaningful observations about its performance. And It will be better that you use a timegrapher to make calls at that point. BTW if you really care about this watch it would bw better that you practice first on something else of no value whastoever, especially about hairspring and balance handling.

No worries man, I was just pointing out why your circuit was cooking resistors initially. I'm sure it works well after making the changes required based on the parts you had on hand. I think the real cheap ones don't even use basic rectification, they're just a simple inductor with one primary that's saturated as well. That's why they get warm and burn out after continuous use. It works for it's purpose but they're made as cheap and basic as possible.

I had acquired the book by going to a regional is also a companion one for jewels. Somebody finally made it into a PDF I've seen the staff one on eBay. Then yes the numbers correspond to the other numbers. There is no picture at the very top of each page they just list whatever the dimensions are usually works best when I'm stepping things out if I get the top of the page that your staff was at the bottom of the page. then I snipped out an image of the other books you can see what it is it's interesting because it went through and measured a huge assortment and that lets you look up staffs by size. With at the bonus at the end of the book they have all the various technical literature of various American watch companies. Plus if you're lucky a few of the staffs have all the dimensions more than you normally see in the list were somebody went to into the detail like you're going to make a balance staff but not all the staffs are listed in the back just some of them but typically the first book one I got your numbers from whenever I need a staff that's where I go unlock because then you can see all the verifications because most people don't realize that one number could refer while is one Elgin actually refers to 12 different staffs I think there's three or four groupings of differences for variations and all the rest the differences are the pivots size there's very few staffs that you only have one staff with no variation but they do exist there just in the minority then of course what makes this one interesting of the Swartchild's American Balance I think almost no one knows it hacks even exist it have to have literature from the material house and I was at a regional meeting just picked up some stuff is as always on the hunt for literature. I'm guessing somebody on eBay just scanned it and probably is not worrying about the fact that assesses copyrighted on the bottom of the page but it does become an interesting book to have

I used the case ring that was in the old watch for the switch from Miyota to 2836 clone. You should have all the parts there to swap that movement into a case designed for the Miyota or DG movement. Your Rado movement will not fit a case designed for the 2824. Beware of cases that say they are for the Miyota/2824 movement. Those two are not the same. The case rings and springs were for a 2824 I put in a case that was designed for the NH movement. I also put a Ronda 515 movement in a case designed for an NH movement. The Ronda shares sizes and stem height with the 2824.

Hi LWS David La Bounty in the States is the man on American clocks ( see attached) . The levers set up was one of his and from what I gather he is a guru. Levers-2.pdf

Hello and welcome to the forum, have a study at the attached, It will give you an idea of whats what TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

In short, the natural rate of oscillation of a (flat spiral) spring is largely independent of the amount of motion (amplitude). Think also of a musical instrument string (even the name is different only by changin p to t), no matter how strong is hit, it plays the same note. You may find this interesting to read: https://www.forgottenbooks.com/en/download/IsochronismofBalanceSprings_10290824.pdf

I am gonna stop here until I get the regulator from a donor. This still needs some tweaking and it really is supposed to be an over coil, so I will make the measurements when I get the donor and then proceed further. My technique changed as I progressed. I quite using the Dumont #3 in my left hand and, instead, used another curved tweezer. Not a #6, but I have some curved tweezers that I dressed to work nicely for this application.

Reference Rowdy Yeats (Clint Eastwood) prog Rawhide Trail Boss Gill Favour.

Start a trend Spectre. Grap a piece of spare land cheap, preferably a field. The field owners charge around £10 here per seller's car, more for a van and buyers pay around a quid each. Yard sales are just one person's gear. Carboots can have hundreds of sellers all wanting to have a clear out at home.

I don't think Cousins has the movement ring. I never saw it there. The ring has the outer diameter of an NH35/36 including the plastic movement ring that is almost universally installed on them and the inner diameter of an ETA 28xx movement. I got them in brass and plastic. I will look up my previous orders and link them but I'm on vacation now. Please give me some time.

Thought I would post progress even though it is not done and disaster could strike at any moment. Also to give @Nucejoea million kudos for the paper idea. It makes a world of difference! Hairspring is not planar, so I have to work that out. I realized that whoever goobered up the hairspring also dissappeared the regulator, so I am essentially stuck with this incomplete situation, however, I think a donor I got on ebay will at least address that...will know when it arrives. This exercise may never end up in the watch, but I think it is important for me to do in order to incrementally improve my skills for when I have no other choice.

I discovered this by happenstance. On archive.org, I found a Swartchild catalog from around the turn of the century and I just went through it, page by page just for fun--this popped up. Pretty cool looking at all of the other tools as well.

Hey, unfortunately no. I've got a bunch of ESP32's and 8266's though

Hah, that's not as easy as you make out lol. Anyway, we're close to derailing a thread again...

I'm already going with the flow for many years but my 1970's Speedmaster Moonwatch hasn't materialized yet (I'm just kidding ) Great watch and project you got there !!

I know. I'm so chuffed with it. I'm dying to know what i have . It needs a new staff but thats already on order. There a couple on Chrono 24 exactly the same. Haha i will , but the universe doesnt work like that. If i win i have to give it all away, i can do a lot of good with it though. Theres a shit load of people and animals need some serious help. so 5 tickets coming up. Everyone chuck a load of numbers at me and I'll pick the most common or relevant. Law of attraction, check out Abraham Hicks matey. Do good to receive good. Just dont expect or want to receive, you just have to be a genuine and honest person that shows kindness and love.

Wow bud, that's a fantastic find! And it looks very very good. Now quick, go play the lotto!

Hahaha. What a lovely lass, i bet she's a good laugh on a night out. Some fair yorky pud tips. I'm ok in the kitchen, my missus is much better. My two grandmothers were amazing bakers and cooks, which is strange as my mum hated cooking and my two sisters are absolutely crap at it. Tbh I'm not a yorkshire pudding fan, dont get me wrong i love them but its flour not a healthy food by any stretch of the imagination. Everyone has at least some level of intolerance to it. We never evolved eating it, well not until around 10,000 years ago when recognised agricultural methods came about. But saying that i do make them for the family and i will eat one, it gives me a place to house some gravy ( yes i know flour, but i make my own so that is controlled ) . The beef dripping is a must, it has loads of flavour and a higher smoke point as heat is key in getting the puds to lift. A muffin tray as opposed to a traditional York pud one as the extra height on sides keeps separation and retains heat a little better. The fat needs to be near smoking and then work quickly to get the batter in the tray and back in the oven. I use semi skimmed milk, sometimes whole milk, saturated fat is so important in our diet, contrary to what most people believe and what we've been told for decades, i have plenty. Its the carbs that are the problem. Semi or whole although this makes them a little heavier, you can offset this a little by bringing the batter back to room temperature after resting in the fridge overnight. Also a generous amount of fat to put the batter into will raise them not especially higher but quicker which will lighten them as well. But yes yorkshire lass did ok, mostly funny, I'm just a bit more fussy about getting things perfect.

@grsnovi is right! It’s an AS 340: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_340&

If you decide it's too loud to keep in the house, let me know.

When all else fails consult your dad! So I dug through my dad's books and found this. It comports with what Gary and John have given.

Possibly A. Schild? https://www.thiemard.info/horlogerie/tools/poincons-listing.php?lang=en Diameter of movement would help.

This is an absolute beauty from today's carboot from a posh old lass that was clearing her house to down size. Apparently passed down to her from her shorthand teacher 50 years ago .5 quid plus my fuel to get there 9 miles from home. I dont understand why some people part with these things . Its the loudest alarm clock tick I've ever heard, in mint condition. I did pick up an even better gem but thats for tomorrow unfortunately not a fiver but still a ridiculous price and something I've been after for a while.

I cut and place a piece of white paper over the pith wood before you pin the spring on, you can see details better in contrast ( white & spring). Cigarette boxes the kind that contains 20 cigartte is good, better than thin paper. This should be easy to fix, at least you know where the bend was and already studded. Good luck

The clock is running great now. The pendulum is adjusted just slightly off mid scale. Now I have moved it out of the LWS and to a place where it can be enjoyed.

Update on hour wheel, I melted the solder and got the two parts parted. A quick measuring session and a wait for my lathe to be returned and a new one is turned. Just need to file the top and tap the hole for the hour hand screw. Customer is more than happy

I received this watch in a large assortment of watches and movements about a year or so ago. I assigned very little value to the crushed Lorsa P72 inside, disassembling it just for the practice. The inside of the dial had the outline of the hour wheel and the main plate had the shape of the cannon pinion coind into their respective surfaces. Setting all of the pieces aside for quite some time I finally realized that I already had several replacement main plates for this movement. I settled on this orphaned plate, salvaging the jewels needed from the old plate and reinstalling them into this one. I also found a replacement hour wheel, escape wheel, cannon pinion and crystal from the many piles of used parts that I have been slowly sorting through. Several jewels, even some that I did not have out, needed to be adjusted in and/or out to aquire the requisite end shake, as well as the resulting engagement between one wheel and another within the train. I also needed to recurve the flattened dial to clear the newly installed hand work. As of today, I have been wearing it all week, pre regulation, and it has been consistently running about thirty seconds/day slow with a slight beat error. I will be adjusting the beat error and regulating it this weekend. My first intentions were to replace the dial, center wheel (it lost the second hand arbor when it got crushed) and find a replacement sweep but this ZOMBIE of a watch has been growing on me, as is (shown above). Thanks for looking. Shane

I finally had time and the spares to fix my Tudor project. It is the first watch I have ever done that had major work needed. I would like to thank everyone on this forum for their dedicated posts I scrolled through many to update my knowledge for this one. From using vinigar to desolve the broken stem from the crown to the scary KIF springs that where very intimidating to me as I had never seen these before. This one has been rebuild without even dropping one screw as I took on Nickelsilvers tweezers advice.

Forum policy will not be discussed publicly on the board. If you have suggestions or concerns then kindly contact a member of the volunteer Moderators or Myself via PM. To those who have strong opinions on how Moderators (all of whom volunteer their free time to help support this project), then I would say - you are welcome to put your hat in the ring and volunteer yourself, I have on several occasions in the past invited people to apply and rarely does anybody step up. None of us are getting paid to do this, the website barely breaks even financially (despite people complaining to me about ads) and so its disheartening when people complain. So back to the subject of this post - Suggestions on policy are very welcome, but not publicly as I don't want arguments or divisiveness. Policy suggestions from members will be discussed by the team and decided upon. Thank you.

Carbon? From being heated? Could you make a mainspring with it? Not sure yet if that's what it was used for, but...*could you* use it for making a coiled mainspring maybe?

I printed it with PLA+ and it worked, I tried 4 times and it works as in the video, thank you for designing and sharing this. Forget about hand winding mainsprings