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  1. The D5 and 8000 are natural paraffinic oils and should not evaporate to this extent at room temps even in high temp countries. Even if they did, then you would see residues left in the cups (synthetic PAO oils would not leave much, if any residues after evaporation). For oils to evaporate as such they would need to be very low viscosity (thickness) and similar to kerosine or BBQ lighter fuel (ie very thin and runny). My instinct would be to consider them being from a bad batch (very unlikely for both to be so) or the oil cups are porous in some way. I doubt Cousins would sell a dodgy batch anyway, I use a similar plastic type cup as you indicate and the oil stays there until it needs to be changed due to age or dirt ingress. I would put a few drops on a metal plate or a mirror (easier to see residues), cover and see what happens. You could also try a few drops in an old plastic case that a new watch battery comes in. If they don't evaporate the the oil cups are suspect, and glass ones would sort your probem as Kalanag indicates. Synthetic (PAO) oils like 9010 and HP1300 should be perfectly ok on metals and most plastics as the 'nasties' present in natural oils are not present.
    2 points
  2. Eight months ago when I began my watch repairing journey, a relative passed me this unusual gold-plated pendant watch to "have a go". They had worn it daily for decades, till it stopped working (and had long gone out of fashion), and put it in a drawer. At the time I had no test equipment but it was running slow and didn't run for long either. Having opened the case to see what the movement was, I put in in a box of "future projects" as I wanted to continue practicing on junk movements. Now I'm gaining confidence having serviced about forty movements and inexpensive watches, I thought it was time to repair it. This is what I saw on the time-grapher: The movement looked clean: Though the finish on the dial side is poor: During the strip down I noticed some unusual wear to the underside of the centre wheel I cleaned the movement and reassembled to try and see what was rubbing on the wheel. It was pretty obvious once I checked the play on the barrel: I asked the owner when it was last serviced. The answer was I don't know, maybe never. I know it was worn daily for twenty or thirty years and dates from the 70s or 80s. I'm amazed that the only sign of wear I found was the top barrel pivot hole. OK time to order parts. I ordered a fresh barrel arbor, barrel bridge, and mainspring. The barrel itself showed no signs of wear or cosmetic damage. I think only the very tip of the teeth were catching the second wheel. It's a shame that I couldn't find a barrel bridge with the same finish. I've not posted pictures of the disassembly as it's a totally straightforward movement. I cleaned, reassembled, inspected and lubricated (941/9010/HP1300/MolyslipDX/8200) the movement. For cleaning I use naptha and pegwood on the pivot holes, followed by a three stage cleaning in an ultrasonic bath. I epilame the inca jewels, pallets, and escapement wheel. I use a superfine oiler and check each pivot under my microscope for correct oil levels and cleanliness. On this occasion I ran the watch for a few minutes, then lubricated the tip of three escapement teeth. I'm experimenting with different methods as I also like to remove and oil the exit pallet. I can't find a difference in results with either technique when you get it right. I probably make more errors oiling the ascapement. Putting it on the timegrapher. 280, 300, 320, 340 degrees, SNOWSTORM!!! Sorry I didn't get a picture but I quickly removed the movement as I could hear it knocking, in order to release the main-spring. I checked the replacement spring and it's measurements were the same as the original however the curve was a little less pronounced. It looked fine, I'd simply replaced it as a matter of good practice. So I cleaned the original and put it in. Now the timegrapher results show unexpectedly high amplitude, but it's not knocking. Dial down Dial up was within a second and two degrees of dial down, and the other vertical positions were similar to the crown right. On reflection, this watch will spend almost all of it's life crown up, so I readjusted it optimised for that position accepting a greater error dial up and down. After a few hours of running-in the differential between the horizontal and vertical positions has reduced. The various vertical positions all perform similarly so I won't post them all. These are after an hour or so of running: So I learned a few things on this movement. Firstly I should have picked up on the play in the barrel as I disassembled the watch. Then I've have known as soon as I saw it the cause of the marks on the second wheel. Secondly, I learned that a new spring even of apparrently correct and identical specification may cause knocking. Finally, a lesson I learned early in this journey (taking care of the dial) remains visible on the face of the watch, where I marked it as I opened it all those months ago. You can only see it under a lupe, but it's there on the seconds dial between 15 and 20 seconds.
    2 points
  3. I just finished servicing this great old Waltham Crescent Street watch made in 1908. It is a sidewinder and is lever set. The handsetting did not work when I began the service but it it did work when I was done. Whoever serviced it before had screwed up the assembly of the keyless works. It definitely works well now. The mainspring barrel in this one really had me confused, but after some research I found out that the arbor was made of two pieces that unscrew. It was necessary to screw the crown wheel back onto the barrel and rotate it counterclockwise until the arbor began to unscrew itself. That's one to remember for the future. I don't have too many pictures of the actual disassembly and re-assembly, so here is a shot of the finished movement and watch. The only thing I could not clean well were the crown and ratchet wheels. It looks for all the world like they received electric shocks. Some discoloration and pitting in two very precise locations. Also, I like the distressed hands on a pretty nice dial. Rod
    2 points
  4. My messes don't go back on ebay either. I see it as yes I might of f&^ked up but at least I'm saving someone else.
    2 points
  5. Way late update,, this watch ended up having the wrong 3rd wheel from the center wheel the teeth count was off , i replaced it and it started running fine, i never could find out the info, anywhere but one day was going through EBAY and a guy had the wheel for sale stating the teeth count, it was different from the one i had, couldnt figure how it even fit in there and ran but when i changed out the watch straightened up,
    2 points
  6. There is a rule of thumb for this which is that with everything dismantled, stand the wheel in question upright in it's pivot hole and observe how far it is able to lean from the vertical. Ideally you are looking for about 5 degrees of lean. Now although you can't put a protractor into the system to measure this, you can draw two lines on a piece of paper that intersect at 5 degrees to give yourself a bench mark with which to compare. Believe it or not the human eye is usually pretty good at comparing angles.
    2 points
  7. I used a regular lead/tin solder. ( 63% Sn/ 37% Pb ) I didn't use the really low temperature tin/bismuth type of solder because I think it has lower strength. I just clamped the dial in a movement holder and used a "third hand" to position the copper wire. I didn't use any special method to cool the dial side but I was told that some people do use a compressed air stream to blow on the dial. Practise on some scrap dial first. Speed is of the essence. Don't linger too long and burn the dial.
    1 point
  8. In between dodging rain showers while pretending to work working very hard in the garden, and emptying out a bunch of junk and cardboard boxes in the attic (to make way no doubt for more boxes and junk), I had a little spare time to work on this much neglected specimen. A Remontoir pocket watch. This was very much a 404 club purchase, as it was also completely filthy, so much so that the case had developed some interesting green marks. The brass polished up rather nicely and I'm almost tempted to lacquer it to save me the trouble of having to clean it again in the future. The inside surfaces of the case appear to be gold plated, or at the very least have a coppery gold appearance. Filthy, with a face held together with ancient stick tape. Just my kind of basket case. It didn't actually require much effort to make it go, as even before I cleaned and lubricated it, it was trying its best to run. The calibre is more Timex then Tissot certainly, and it has a tick like a woodpecker, but it actually keeps pretty god time, despite its forlorn fizzog. I have a slight dilemma however. Should I replace the paper dial with a modern copy from a digital photo, photo shopped and cleaned up, but based as closely as possible on the original and printed with precise 21st century technology, or should I keep it as is? What are everyone's thoughts. Keep, or replace?
    1 point
  9. I'm after a "Pogue" (the yellow dial one), but the prices keep rising. If you're wondering why "Pogue" : As the story goes, during training for the Skylab 4 mission in 1973, NASA astronaut Colonel William Pogue used his 1971 Seiko 6139-6005 with a yellow dial to time various maneuvers and engine burns. While the Omega Speedmaster was the standard-issue watch for NASA astronauts at the time, Pogue didn’t receive his Speedmaster during training. When it came time to embark on the Skylab mission, both watches accompanied him into space: one as standard equipment; the other, a timepiece he knew and trusted. Thus, despite not being NASA-certified, the Seiko 6139 became the first automatic chronograph in space. This is how the watch earned its nickname, The Pogue. Also 6138 vs 6139 : There are two primary calibers: the earlier 6139 introduced in 1969 (and produced until approximately 1977), and the 6138 introduced a year later in 1970. The difference between the two movements is that the 6139 only has a 30-minute chronograph register, and the 6138 has an additional 12-hour register. Both lack an active running seconds and in terms of specs, they beat at 21,600bph and have a power reserve of 45 hours. Both also have a day/date indicator. The 6139 has 17 jewels, and the 6139 has 21 (and 23 for some of the rarer Japanese domestic market variants like the 6138-8000). Both variants lack hacking and the 6139 does not hand wind. In terms of size, the 613X is 27mm in diameter and 7.2mm (6139)/7.9mm (6138) tall.
    1 point
  10. Yes, I use the "kitchen-door". That works fine until the moment that the postman knocks on it ......
    1 point
  11. @LittleWatchShop I've been experimenting using similar glue-on feet from cousins. If recessed using the mill they can be bonded in to place robustly. I've tried various glues. The superglue supplied with the kit was fragile as was 5 minute epoxy. 3m Scotch Weld worked well. @HectorLooi I will try and master the technique you suggest for soldering with the micro torch. Do you do anything to keep the finished side of the dial cool, and do you use a special low melting point solder?
    1 point
  12. Wonderful!! Just be prepared to be poor. Not because they expensive but that there’s so many of them that you’d want them all!
    1 point
  13. Hi - Retired electronics engineer here and just beginning to look at the fascinating world of watch repair. I've been watching videos and I've just discovered that watch repair courses exist, and I'm looking forward to learning a lot on here.... Thanks for letting me join !
    1 point
  14. I've used cases from Helenarou. They seem to be pretty ggod. Just another option for you to consider https://helenarou.com/2824-2836-28242836.html
    1 point
  15. I agree with @gbyleveldt, I too am a fan of Seiko. They may not be the most elegant movements, but they are robust, cheap, and parts are usually easy to find. (Usually ..... e.g date corrector wheels for LordMatics are rare as rocking horse poo. I made my own with some brass sheet and a file). The auto mechanism is so simple, but efficient - no sensitive reverser wheels. Before trying my first chrono, I thought an intermediate step would be alarm watches - so I got two Seiko Bell-Matic. Great watches. Quite collectable, I see the prices are rising.
    1 point
  16. Apparently acetone works. I didnt have that so tried api overnight, it didnt budge so then naptha for a couple of hours. Still was tight so i just got stuck in with a craft knife to cut away, 30 secondss later it gave in and released. The superglue just peeled straight off. You can actually buy debonder which softens the glue in minutes, i used to use it years ago at work. Do you mean the problem of fakes? That goes against the grain of anyone that appreciates quality craftsmenship in anything and is willing to pay for that quality. Fake is as fake owns or wears. I consider myself to be a genuine person not create an image that doesnt exist, what you see is what you get with me. If i cant afford the genuine article I'd rather not pretend that i can. Sorry if that offends anyone thats just my opinion. This was an experiment to see what can be copied and how bad or good it could be done, I'm a very curious bugger. The solution - i don't believe there is one fakes of everything will always be made and will always be bought. We live in a facade world where everything has to look good even when its not, most of what we see and hear is just bullshit. And a lot of media just promotes that because it keeps us in our place, spending our hard earned cash and supposedly happy. This is where i dont fit in i dont even have a tv. Might be better if i stop here.
    1 point
  17. Well, that depends, but out of principle - being a Seiko fanboy - I'm going to disagree They're no less repairable than any other brand. In fact I'm working through a batch of 13 of them as we speak. Granted, I strip parts from donor movements (as that's cheaper than sourcing new parts) but they're so prolific that it's hardly an issue to get spares. It's a hell of a lot cheaper (and easier) than buying parts for swiss watches.
    1 point
  18. When you click the register button, does it show a spinning circle or it does nothing? If it does nothing, review the fields you've filled, you may have skipped one or more that are required, and they will be painted in red, but there will be no warning near the button so you might not see anything without scrolling up. I've just created an account with no problems once I corrected my mistakes (leaving the phone number blank).
    1 point
  19. Super glue gets dissolved easily by acetone or nail polish remover „extra strong“.
    1 point
  20. I think it‘s just for checking wheater you are in the ballpark with the beat rate.
    1 point
  21. Good move Gert old boy and very considerate. Its not true what they say about you I knew you was a nice chap.
    1 point
  22. I've no idea whether other members do have a "story" with each watch they own ? For me that's the case and this watch is no exception. A seller on eBay had a bunch (10 or so) brand new Zodiac dials (with "red-dot") on offer, I think €25 each. Initially I thought that they were too expensive, but somehow I couldn't get the dial out of my head and bought it. At that time I had never heard of Zodiac and had no clue about the meaning of the "red-dot" either. Weeks later the dial arrived and it was actually very nice and clearly of very high quality. Perhaps one more? ....... Too late, all gone. Further search revealed that these dials (and watches) are quite sought after and command much higher prices than what I paid, depending on the condition of course. With this in mind the dial deserved a good movement, nice hands and obviously a divers case (sapphire). The movement is a new automatic ETA 2824-2 (28,800bph) and even though the hands were bought separately, the lume of them (also during the night) do match the lume on the dial perfectly. It has become one of my favored watches to wear;
    1 point
  23. The hairspring vibrator is a very expensive tool, some way down the line for most. Sooooooo much more to learn before that. But good for you that you are thinking about it. So for your hs work you do need a lot of practice to become proficient at it. If you've only just started then you are jumping in at the deep end somewhat. Saying that it also depends on the person you are, we are all different and pick things up at different speeds. So you may be very well capable in a short time span. As example i was less than a month into the hobby and was manipulating and repinning hairsprings, mainly from necessity. It was a case of get it done so i could carry on the project. A couple of tips here may help you along. You must be calm and relaxed, confident without being complacent. If you let nerves creep in this will affect you greatly. Plenty of practise on scrap, and when it comes to the crunch of the actual project, try to forget its value but not if that makes sense (probably not). If you think about its value you may panic, if you dont think about its value you may not care. Its a fine balance to find. So to combat this the practise piece must be treated as the actual, try not to think "oh ffkk it, its only scrap". This way you will be doing the same decent job over and over and when you get to the Omega you will just do it. So depending on how much time you spend on the hobby, you could easily be a month away from the Omega. So dont rush onto it, even when you have the skill down, have a break from it and then go back and practise some more until there is no doubt in your mind that you are capable. . Oh and also to keep in mind, watch your hand shake at this magnification, a low blood sugar level will be much more apparent. Thanks Kalanag. Yes I've watched this a few times before. Haha and that music drives me bonkers lol. I'm curious to know how accurate this is compared to a dedicated hs vibrator. I wonder if the point of holding and the height of stretched spring is taken into account.
    1 point
  24. You‘ve seen this video by T&T&T? (I know it‘s not the music you like) https://youtu.be/Ye6i14NaWKI
    1 point
  25. Absolutely the right thing to do jp, you will never go wrong with John's advice. I was just clarifying that for you earlier it seemed that fact maybe had been mistaken. Hairspring work is not easy and until its been attempted then that cant be truly appreciated. It also goes a long way into not ffing it up the next time Rich. If you dont try you wont ever learn or get better. How you doin yorkshire buddy, Ok ?
    1 point
  26. Many thanks for the welcome, I know that I've only just started and I can see a long road ahead of me. I do in fact have a question to ask, so I'll wander over to the correct area and post it.
    1 point
  27. Welcome to WRT forum and good luck with your forey into horology.
    1 point
  28. Welcome Railway. Thank you for your introduction, thats always nice and to have a bit of background on members can come in handy. Where you at matey ? You have made a good choice. The forum here is full of friendy very knowledgeable folk from all backgrounds and with all different skill levels so dont let yourself feel out of place. We have some amazing working pros and also some very knowledgeable amateurs some even considered as good as pros. The old timers are my favourite with a wealth of knowledge and so helpful. Look out for Watchweasol he is an absolutely gem in my opinion and i personally have a ton of respect for as does everone on the forum. JohnR725 is also super knowledgeable as is nicklesilver both pros and a couple of other pros that occasionally pop theirs heads in. Post up any questions you have and as ww quite rightly says "no question is silly " so dont feel like that when asking anything. When posting we need plenty of photos of what you are working on to go along with your questions. Dial, caseback, dial off side and the train side. Any history information of the watch that you can give us is always useful. Any contributions you can make to help anyone are also welcomed and encouraged. Look forward to speaking soon
    1 point
  29. nice that you figured out the problem. rare on other watches not rare on some Rolex watches. You look way back at the beginning of the discussion somewhere there a certain Rolex calibers that come in different frequencies. So people don't understand the base calibers one frequent see the later's are different frequencies. Somebody just wants to sell you watch they don't care mix-and-match it's your problem figure out why maybe it hasn't keep time. So is actually quite common for Rolex watches unfortunately a Sena discussed in other discussion groups a seated in the shop that I work at. All too common. Because unfortunately why is nice that the watch you buy is running as opposed to its in potentially running condition or some other clever wording. I know you can do something similar with Omega watches a few of the calibers but I don't number which one. Just seems to be more common or I paid more attention that they can happen with these particular Rolex calibers.
    1 point
  30. Absolutely G, I'm not knocking anyone that tries and of course there comes a point when you have to stop and know when any further tries are fruitless ( failure is not in my vocabulary ). But that comes hard for me to accept. Some of my decendants were scotish so i grew up with the story of Robert the Bruce. I have always strived for excellence in everthing i do so i'm not able to give up without a fight. Not everyone is great at everthing we all have our strengths and we all have our weaknesses. My strengths lie in not letting my weaknesses hold me back. Aim for the best version of yourself, like i said i want this in myself but i want everyone else to aim for that as well, thats whybi encourage folk whenever i getvthe opportunity.Thats the point i was making.
    1 point
  31. See this: https://youtu.be/ps6dPxoxe9c https://youtu.be/XgnvYfPVedY
    1 point
  32. Correct. In the videos you might observe that I am using a 13 3/4 ligne holder for the ST19 (also for the Poljot 3133) - the Venus 175 is 14 ligne. Here is the product on Cousins. Expensive, but very low risk to the movement. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/by-size-bergeon-5914
    1 point
  33. Would you like to run the forum @Paul80 ? @KarlvonKoln - it's the first topic pinned in this section of the forum:
    1 point
  34. Have you given a look to the comprehensive topic below. It has answers to all your questions and then some. In short, petroleum ether is availabile on Ebay UK, it's a proper horological products of guaranteed purity, and it cost less per quantity than fuels that are made to burn, not to clean.
    1 point
  35. I am just saying that no gasket will fit and the logical consequence is that it has to be glued. Which if done correctly allows no water to enter. The fact that you found the original gasket disintegrated, as in leaving only small debris is consistent with the above. BTW, screw down crown and case back are simply features of quality construction, back then as now normally found in dress watches as well. These in itself do not guarantee impermeability, nitryl gaskets do. And in chronos water has also another major way of entering, from the pushers.
    1 point
  36. the second fluid looks interesting the first does not. it might be okay but we have a problem. I've attached some PDFs there the safety sheets the safety sheet for this is unhelpful. Your second product actually says is for cleaning that's a good sign. If you look at the material safety sheets for the cleaner in the rinse you'll notice that the base solvents are basically identical and the cleaner only has a few little additional things for the cleaning aspect. Typically for hobbyists they go for a solvent to do everything which works but it's not as nice as having a cleaner with a rinse. Which technically all of that is referred to as cleaning so we get from the safety sheet we get Mineral Spirits Regular as the prime ingredient which is also referred to Stoddard solvent which I think if you do a search will probably come up in this group somewhere. I think it might actually be a dry cleaning product. then of course Solvent Naphtha with a reference that the actual mixture is a secret or trade secret . In any case with safety sheets you can see the substances in both the cleaning and the rinse which is basically identical except the cleaning just has a few extra things. The cutting-edge a clue of the types of solvents are looking for. Oh and then there's the safety sheet for the fuel and it doesn't actually tell us what it is which makes it kind of worthless if were looking for ingredients that are bad for watch repair but the online that has the second stuff there are some other things that may be would be suitable also the only way can really tell is look at the safety sheets and it talks about using it for a cleaner which some of the other one said they are for the usually a cleaner with leave a residue behind probably. I have to use the word probably because I know of a cleaner that we use here which is not used typically and watch repair and I discovered one is using the clean glass it left a residue behind although I don't think it actually said it was for cleaning glass. But if you had a cleaning fluid that said you could use it on glass mirrors etc. that would be good oh just to spell out what I meant by this. Somewhere in Ireland that I know what existed at one time because I knew somebody who worked in Irish material house. Our places in this country called material houses cousins is one. But anywhere you have a sizable quantity of watchmakers are in a quantity watchmakers there will be a place where watchmakers can buy the parts and their supplies and the tools. Some of them are friendly towards hobbyists some are not. The problem is they're really good at hiding especially the ones that do not do online business because are considered for the trade. But as I said some may do business with you they become hidden gems of obtaining stuff that you can't get online especially if they have been around for a long period of time. ultrasonic_watch_rinsing_solution.pdf FDSQQ109974.pdf extra_fine_watch_cleaning_solution.pdf
    1 point
  37. There are a couple of things I'm good at. At 68, I don't feel that I have to excel at everything I try and think I know when it's worth saying: enough is enough. I'm also OK with determining that some projects are lost causes and it's perfectly ok to give up and move on to the next piece. After all, I'm not flipping my messes back onto eBay...
    1 point
  38. This happens, but rare . I think the old wheel must have been for a variant of this caliber which beats different.
    1 point
  39. Good for you matey. Isnt that feeling just great Good watching but bloody awful music, i have to turn the sound off. You make so much sense John. Trying to explain to a beginner how difficult some of this work really is, isnt easy. I think you do a good job of putting things into perspective for them and probably save a lot of damage to their watches in the process. Just keep practising matey, now you know why JohnR725 suggested you practise on something scrap. You did well to listen , some folk do not. That was just jp's practise piece G. But besides this is what our amazing hobby is all about. Being able to do and being bloody good at it, not giving up at fixing something until the job is done or it has broken and gone beyond its repair. And at what point you decide to quit and move onto something else will dictate how good you will become and how determined you are to become the best you can be. I know i want that in myself and everyone else for that matter as well. Can i ask John, do you vibrate hairsprings ? this something i want to learn eventually.
    1 point
  40. Brilliant idea. Any pictures that anyone can find so not limited to movements actually worked on by forum members. Or beginners may struggle to come up with much. Or actual worked on movements. ? If so then I have a compilation of the world's shittyest movements ever made
    1 point
  41. It doesn't matter - WRT isn't a democracy. Your idea would have best been addressed directly (in private) to Mark.
    1 point
  42. Many Russian watches use this type of casebacks. Vostok Amphibias and Komandirskies are pprime examples. And yes, Bulova use this on all their tuning fork watches.
    1 point
  43. because the case back does not unscrew. so using that method using the ball would all be a waste of time because all you going to do is break the case back if you try to unscrew it. Then the conventional case wrenches is a mistake especially if you type net tight as you'll just damage the case back. You can use a conventional ranch if you grasp what you're doing but you're probably still do a scratch things up you really need a special case opening tool. By the way this back is actually quite common for Bulova it's the standard back found in most of their tuning fork watches and it comes in two separate sizes. I'll see if I have a picture lurking in the meantime I found a picture of the wrench found in the servicing manual for the tuning fork watch and a picture of the ring found in the parts list for that watch. You have to get the ring off if you want the back off. if not going to find this inside your case but the picture of on the left the wrong type of wrench to use the proper type on the right and why anything trying to remove the back is a waste of time because the back is a little notch and even if you could screw the back itself you still have to get that ring off. then everything am showing as for the normal size ring there is a different looking wrench for the smaller ring found in the ladies version of this watch. But this will give you an idea. Then in case you think this is unique ever buyout a watchmaker you might find old boxer drawer filled with peculiar wrenches like this because there are lots of peculiar case back set come off in peculiar ways. Then not just the case back casing can just get really interesting as there are so many variations.
    1 point
  44. I agree G that things can quickly go off topic once another aspect surfaces, but it often does come back to the original question. Surely nobody takes offence to some temporary friendly banter. Do they ??
    1 point
  45. Maybe it was or maybe it was not in the correct place for that discussion. But the OP isnt especially responsible or aware of which direction the talking is going to go. So maybe it should have been moved ? Bit sad and boring if you have to think everytime you post anything if that is going to diverse things a little bit dont you think. I hope nobody is saying that humor should be checked constantly, if thats the case then i wont be lasting too much longer
    1 point
  46. Based on your advice I have put aside the hairspring that I need to work on, to practice. I had another hairspring, from a gents wristwatch, and I have spent hours on it. The pictures show a progression of my learning, which is actually more like circular attempts to fix, worsen, and remedy. The more I try, the worse it seems to get sometimes. So I now use a hard surface - a white ceramic tile. I had to purchase two new tweezers - Dumont, which made a huge difference. I still find doing this with a loupe difficult. The problem I am still not able to sort out is twisting. So still some more to work on.
    1 point
  47. I'm probably the overly suspicious type but if the watch value is approximately $2400 in somebody's selling it for $250 that seems a little suspicious? Now faded said the watch value was perfect in running condition is 2400 and currently it's a piece of crap that doesn't run but I want to 150 or make me an offer that would make more sense but that's not what the person is saying. Then the description of the repair as noted above by someone else isn't quite right. out of curiosity I looked on eBay and you're getting ripped off. Somebody else has one for $200 you can even make an offer. Although its condition is quite amusing apparently it is an automatic but it need something to make it work apparently needs a battery the cost of which would be $12 from the jewelry store. oh and then there's the other little problem typically on eBay don't want to buy from sellers that have a bad rating or zero rating. I do see another one for lesson $200 but it is an auction it's from a seller that has hundred percent good rating and looking at the other items it will soar way beyond the price. Sometimes of things are too good to be true I think that's a safe way to think. Unless you could actually physically see the watch and make sure it's a legitimate watch who did very definitely questionable what you're buying especially with the very poor description of what the problem is.
    1 point
  48. I have found Aquaracer to be very waterproof. I have also found that many Tag Heuer watches are fake. I do not want to discourage you, but be careful. Might be a fake with a crap movement. A Tag Heuer expert told me the newest fakes are very difficult to tell unless opened. You could do a repair and be left with a $50 watch.
    1 point
  49. So if anyone is interested, I made the print-outs for the box lid (at least for my version). You can fin bellow the pdf and the editabler corel file. boley3.pdf boley3.cdr
    1 point
  50. Mine didn't have the user manual, either. But don'worry, it wouldn't have helped you using it. It is just a basic description of the tool. From what I've searched the internet I found the following: the german manual: Boley198d_7.7.pdf some four-languages tables: I know it is in german but you can use google translate app on your android to translate (just point the camera towards the image on your monitor and the app will translate):
    1 point
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