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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/07/22 in all areas

  1. No, you push the case out appying pressure from the crystal side after releasing the split stem. I had to use a press to push it out (crystal side up, pushing down). Once it is out, you remove a very thin ring that surrounds the crystal and the movement just falls out from the case. I suspect if the one i bought hadn't so much crud/corrosion, it would have been easy to extract. I was able to totally get the movement out this morning, dial off etc. Turns out there is a rather nice ETA 1080 in there that is in very good shape (and ticking no less once I was release from the cae).
    3 points
  2. I know this comes up from time to time but a search failed to find a dedicated thread (Mods please move if there is one) so thought the following might be of interest to newbie’s like myself. It is I suppose common knowledge that you should not clean the pallet fork in IPA because its supposed to dissolve the shellac used to retain the Jewels. Having tried in the past to dissolve shellac in IPA for another non watch related use and found it to not be very good I was rather sceptical of the claim "It dissolves Shellac" so thought I would give it a go with a spare Pallet fork I had. Obviously the pallet in the picture below was soaked for far longer than it would be if I was just cleaning it but it clearly shows that after 6 hours soaking almost all the Shellac was dissolved. Proof if proof is needed I suppose. Hope this is of help to the new members who like me were wondering if IPA did actually do any damage or it was just anecdotal reporting Proof is in the picture below
    2 points
  3. That's because the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring to unwind by itself. In fact, to unwind the MS in these watches you need to first remove the 2nd reduction wheel and then you can hold the click and unwind it.
    2 points
  4. For a balance staff I find I'm as fast making a new one as repivoting; also, with repivoting there are several pitfalls that can turn the job sour and you're left with a useless staff, so you end up making it anyway. I would always make a full drawing before either. Technically, a properly done repivoting is as good as original, there's no reason it would fail or perform less well. For trickier parts like a pinion, it is usually far faster and easier to repivot than remake. Doing a correct repivoting of a balance staff isn't easier than making a whole staff, it's just possibly quicker, but in my experience not really unless it's an ultra high grade staff (or marine chronometer or something). Getting the staff running perfectly true to drill, drilling a truly concentric hole that is straight and to proper depth, making the plug with the correct friction fit, fitting the plug, then turning the plug to final size and form and length, finally finishing off in the Jacot*- there are a lot of skills wrapped up there. *using the Jacot you really find out if your plug was fitted correctly!
    2 points
  5. Looks like a little Swiss 5-bar cylinder movement made for export to an English-speaking country (thus the "fast" & "slow"). It's hard to see, bit of blur, but the characteristic type of steel escape wheel intersects at its edge with the axis of the balance - wherein you'll find the cylinder. That's Swiss. When the English made cylinder escapements, most of theirs were made long before and the old ones had escape wheels of brass. And they used bridge plates instead of bars like this. They aren't hard to work on really, once you have tools for them. Oiling them just right, and setting the beat, can be rather tricky at times. Being key-wind/key-set in the back, I'd guess she was made about mid-1800s, but not much later. Shortly after, you would start seeing crown-wind/pin-set.
    2 points
  6. The primary parts missing are the reamers. Looks like a few pushers are missing too, but that's not a big deal. You can get a set of reamers from Horia that will work with this tool for about 200 bucks, so to get it fully functional you're at 400 or so, which honestly is OK for a tool like this, with all the other parts that are there. One really nice thing with these as opposed to Seitz is the spindle for holding the reamers takes little precision collets, made by Schaublin. Those are 80-115 bucks each in the normal sizes (more for the more oddball ones). This set looks to have them all, which would be from 0.5mm to 3mm, with an additional (in the spindle in the pic) at 2.2mm, which for whatever reason is the body size of the reamers. These are often missing some to all of them. With the additional sizes you can easily hold drills and taps, a very useful thing. It won't work with Seitz reamers since they are held in a special spindle by a taper fit. But it will work with Seitz pushers, which are reasonably priced from watch material suppliers.
    1 point
  7. Hi You can purchase single stumps and stakes on ebay at approx £7 a piece so by the time you have replaced the missing parts ypu would have bought a new chinese version from Alo Express.
    1 point
  8. To Attempt to repair 400 day clocks is hard enough but bwithout twerwilligers book, beat setting tool, and knowledge a waste of time as theyare as mentioned tempremental and will not run unless dead level. They are not the type of clock you fiddle with you either get stuck in and repair the thing which may take days /months to get it working correctly. On the face of it the mechanisms are simple single train, what can go wrong ? try one snd find out. I have several of these guys and love working on them. The last one was a Bentima broken spring (the usual problem). They were factory produced in Germany not overly expensive unless you pock up a Gustav becker (disc Pendulum job). all the best and gook luck if you attrmpt the repair.
    1 point
  9. Hi joaquin. Ive just been watching this same one myself on ebay less than an hour ago. i was going to bid for it but the price went above what i thought it was worth at 143 gbp. I imagined trying to source the missing parts would not be easy. I did feel the same way about this one so i left it alone
    1 point
  10. The missing inserts (6 - 30) would concern me. I would like to have such a tool set being 99% complete.
    1 point
  11. This looks like a flaw in the timing machine. Software that lets you see a plot of the sound will tell you a lot. There's free software that does this, but it helps to have knowledge with using computers to use it. Can't be sure, but I think what you'd find if you investigated is that the the beat isn't a nice clean signal. There's supposed to be three distinct ticks with the 3rd the loudest. But there are more noises than that in there. The timegrapher is picking one sound of many in the beat and saying, "this is THE beat," and that's where it draws the dot. There's lots of stuff going on in that sound but all you get to see is one dot. It picks the same sound in each beat for a while and you get the straightish lines for while. What we might expect for a watch running at -22 s/d with 1.6 ms beat error. But then it decides a different sound will be the beat where it draws the dot. And this makes the line instantly jump vertically by the offset between where the old sound and the new sound are. But other than this jump, the lines keep going exactly like they were before.
    1 point
  12. I assume you looked under the balance wheel for markings? Then we need a picture of the dial side without the dial and the diameter size of the movement. Often times when you take the dial off their may be a makers mark their. Otherwise we can use the setting components and the size to figure out what it may or may not be. This is where having a copy of the bestfit book physical is really nice but PDF is also nice. Because you can use that the lookup a heck of a lot of wristwatch movements.
    1 point
  13. Looks FHF family e.g. 28 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&FHF_28 @ 10.5 ligne or 283 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&FHF_283 @ 11.5 ligne.
    1 point
  14. make sure when you're purchasing this you also purchase the associated rinse that goes with it. then in the US you can purchase it from Amazon at about $10 more but it includes free shipping. Claims if I ordered it now I can have it by Thursday. So looks like relatively fast shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Ultrasonic-Ammoniated-Watch-Cleaning-Solution/dp/B06X9CC2RM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2L7XCW6QIFH2W&keywords=l%26r+s+%23111+waterless+watch+cleaning+solution+ammoniated&qid=1654622753&sprefix=l%26R+111%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-2
    1 point
  15. Flash is the temperature when the fumes would briefly ignite if exposed to a heat source. So don't have any flames near it, obviously. All it really tells you is that it's volatile I.e has a low boiling point. The autoignition temperature means that if it was heated to that temperature it would burst into flames.
    1 point
  16. See here: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3552-cleaning-fluids/?do=findComment&comment=188939
    1 point
  17. I would first suggest to clean the case of the watch before opening the case back. This is to avoid getting any debris into the movement as the case back is lifted. Begin by removing the bracelet first. Once the bracelet is removed you can use a soft cloth, old tooth brush and such with warm soapy water to wipe away any exterior grime or dirt. Wipe with cloth, do not dunk or rinse. You will see a notch above the battery hatch. This allows for a tool to be inserted and to lift the caseback. See attached photo. You just need a thin tipped tool to insert and pry up.
    1 point
  18. Don't know but definitely foreign silver. This one is Swiss imported into Germany
    1 point
  19. Definitely 32F (see attached picture). I did the math, and petroleum ether comes out to about the same price per ounce as 566 and 111. Difference is you can buy small quantities of lighter fluid XD
    1 point
  20. O.K., they should have been writing „assembled manually in high perfection“, right? „PI“ indicates the movement P 400. The plates should be 54mm x 44mm x 1,3mm.
    1 point
  21. That clock is not hand made it is factory made, to say it is quality is a poor joke.
    1 point
  22. All I can tell you is it's not English. .800 is foreign silver.
    1 point
  23. Most chiming movements need cleaning and re bushing due to wear. Sometimes springs need replacing and always if it has a pendulum replace the suspension spring. In order to properly service any clock that has its springs in barrels it is a must to have a mainspring winder. The only other way is to remove the spring in what way you can and replace the spring with a new one. Mainspring winders remove springs in such a way that the spring is never distorted. Springs out of shape can and do damage the barrel and will cause the power to be irregular which causes the clock to keep poor time. The strike and chime springs will cause the strike and chime to work in a poor manner.
    1 point
  24. So this little tiger is accompanying me on my travels today. A cute little ladies silver pocket watch. I'm working today so i dont have time to date it till later. But if anyone is sat at home bored and wants to help out and have a crack at dating her that would be wonderful. Here are some pictures. And who knows she might talk to me this evening, i get on so much better with women especially mature women, their senses of humour is fantastic.
    1 point
  25. I have a Benrus that looks to have a similar style case and you have to pull the crown off (it's a split stem) and then push on the crystal which will drop the movement out of the back.
    1 point
  26. I wonder how @oldhippy keeps all his clocks. He recently got another 4 clocks. And he keeps cats too! When I had a stray cat that came to visit my mum every afternoon, she (the cat) would crawl behind my shelves and knock things off.
    1 point
  27. Yes they are and they are hard to come by. But the good news is once you get a complete set of containment rings, you can work on most clocks. Well maybe not Big Ben. Have a look at Cousins website https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mainspring-winder-ollie-baker-style In addition to the winder, you'll need a set of let down tools and a beat adjuster. Your clock might be missing the lower suspension block. But Cousins should have spares for that. A 400 day clock is deceptively simply but a real pain to get it going. It's probably the 2nd worst clock for a beginner.
    1 point
  28. so it wont let me upload the file directly here so i uploaded to thingiverse here is the link! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5404710
    1 point
  29. A couple of weeks ago I picked up a set of four of these 300ml jars. The Elma basket fits inside very nicely. I fill the basket with parts, drop into the jar and put that into the ultrasonic, then fill the ultrasonic with water to a point below the rim of the jar. I don't use the lids for the jars but so far I've just been pouring my naphtha and IPA back into their containers. Part of me likes the economy of using naphtha and IPA but I might break down and buy a gallon each of the L&R cleaning and rinse solutions (to last the rest of my life). If I do that, I'll use the lids on the jars.
    1 point
  30. Its low quality. It will need a complete overhaul. These clocks are very temperamental. If you have never done any clock work, this is the worst type of clock to start with. I can help you with it. For starters you are going to need a clock mainspring winder and this book Charles Terwilliger Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide
    1 point
  31. Ok so I'm a bit gutted I've just worked out my latest acquisition from ebay. 83 quid for 17 pocket watches. Which calculates to £4.88 each and not the required 404. Gutted I've not made the mark but very pleased with my purchase. Which includes 6 Ingersol not inc. the boxed one this was a seperate purchase at yesterdays carboot hunt. A kienzle, a cimier, a westclox, an excelsa, a french chronometre, 5 unnamed 4 of which are silver inc. 2 ladies, and a brass full hunter. Some of these ive not been able to get in the back as yet. This comes from the man that wasnt particularly interested in pocket watches that now has a total of 20. Hence Neverenoughwatches, which i may now have to change to neverenoughwatchesandpocketwatches.
    1 point
  32. Here are some photos of the plug. the first two are the motor cable. The second pair are the switch at the machine. These are from an early machine without the ultrasonic.
    1 point
  33. Don’t do it! I wouldn’t service that especially since the performance looks so good, that’s just asking for trouble. Maybe in a couple of years time…
    1 point
  34. A couple of weeks ago a member asked how to measure the coil resistance of a Timex Electric. As I'm working on a dead Timex Quartz, I took some photos to show how it's done. May I ask what kind of meter I should use to test the coil? I'm having what I believe are coil problems with my watch. Also need to check for completed circuit. If you look at the above photo, the coil terminates on either side of the balance staff. The one on the left is the common ground and the one on the right goes to a pin that will touch the contact wire. On the other side, the contact pin is just under the roller table. So to measure the resistance, you must contact this pin and any metal part of the balance. Hope this helps.
    1 point
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