Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/22 in all areas

  1. That's shellac. It's used an adhesive to set the pallet jewels in position. That's perfectly normal. The colour of the shellac can vary from a very light blonde to a very dark brunette.
    3 points
  2. Not every military issued watch had the arrow. I have a military issued and battlefield damaged/repaired Cyma, and the dial is very similar. Case is very different though. Case back is completely wrecked due to someone in the past scratching off the D#. Numbers are brass(?). Hands are not original.
    2 points
  3. Obviously the watch was made by Certina for your father‘s company (Waitaki Refrigerants Ltd.) in a limited number using a quartz movement of the Swatch group. Waitaki Ltd. used it as a 30 years jubilee gift. Most likely it has a decent quality but has little material value.
    2 points
  4. Hi Greg. Yes the hour wheel should not be a tight fit, it needs to revlove freely independent of the cannon pinion. Maybe one or the other has been changed or damaged at some point. Was it tight as soon as it was placed on the cannon pinion or as it was engaging with the intermediate wheel ? I would first start by removing the hour wheel and observe how the watch runs. Do you remember it being tight when you removed it ? If not has something happened since then ? Have you raised any material on the cannon pinion that could be causing friction between that and the hour wheel when you removed the cannon pinion ? Yes Greg it should be a reasonably firm fit. Generally they are more prone to becoming loose, this would cause the minuit hand to flop around. Your issue is pointing towards the tight hour wheel. Just as a side note to helping newbies with slowing down their eagerness to jump in strip down and then faulter to put back together. # inspection during disassembly is just as important as correction of reassembly # Guru Richy
    2 points
  5. Welcome @georgem10, Marshall has a good YT channel and he makes it look easy. Just remember you will probably take longer than an hour to repair your watch! There are a lot of helpful people here. Where are you located in the world?
    2 points
  6. For you who encounter this problem, things have changed at least here in the USA, dont hesitate to try and correct your vision,my cataract surgeries were very easy , the vitrectomy WAS scarry to me,, they stick 2 needles in your eye and a light in the 3rd hole, and draw all the vitreous out that has all the old yellowed /stringy fluid/ floaters, blobs and what nots.mine were so bad they floated up in my vision blocking what ever i tried to work on, and driving was a booger. they replace it with a solution, I COULD NOT believe the clarity difference, i had no vision the first day, it did hurt a few days and i looked liked someone gave me a black eye but it all healed in a few weeks by the 3rd day i could see watch parts again!!, now i have 20/16 vision in my right eye that was 20/200 before, i had to wear glasses ALL of my life,, i am heading Back to have the left eye done in a few months,Take care of yourselves,,stay well, no one will do it for you,
    2 points
  7. Hi, I teach watchmaking to complete beginners at Epping Forest Horology Centre, close to Epping and this is one of the lessons on the BFG 866. I wanted to show my class a classic pin pallet (Roskopf) movement and how to service it, as many watchmakers won't touch these watches as they hold no monetary value. Turn the setting lever screw 1 to 1 and a half turns to release the winding stem A piece of watch paper or small plastic jiffy bag to protect the dial, whilst removing the hands The driving pinion is part of the friction fitted minute wheel on top of the barrel. This work in a similar way to a friction fitted canon pinion to set the watch hands Remove the keyless work: setting lever, held in place by the setting lever screw, screwed from the other side of the mainplate, then the yoke, which sits on top of the clutch (castle) and also the winding pinion. I have three other lessons on this movement that cover bringing the watch 'into beat' as well as taking apart the friction fitted minute wheel from the barrel, lubricating and staking back on to achieve the correct friction setting and finally how to remove the centre seconds wheel safely and refit using a staking set. Many people leave the friction fitted minute wheel on top of the barrel, not realising the amount of old grease that can't be cleaned out from it, as well as not removing the wheel of the centre seconds arbor and again not cleaning out the pipe which has old grease inside. Hope you enjoyed the tutorial? More to come....
    1 point
  8. it was 60 bucks' and it keeps great time
    1 point
  9. The answer is there, its an in-house Cyma movement so any dial that fits it must have been made for this caliber. The back side of dial plate may reveal more as to the possibility of it being an after market dial .
    1 point
  10. Haha. I doubt it. Swatch group watch, probably a Swatch group standard movement of that time. Nothing to do with the swatch watch.
    1 point
  11. well to be honest i went to a certina vintage site and asked some questions there and i dont know weather he didnt speak english or he wasnt happey with neon swatch watch parts but no one even bothered to talk to me, So to come here and get a fist full of logic and and good feedback is refreshing to say the least so im of a mind to have a go at deconstructing my bolex and if that goes well ill at least remove the back of dads one just because im interested to see if the movement is fluorescent pink and yellow, ill have some time on my hands as i refused to take the Health dept up on their ever so kind offer to inject an unknown substance in to me that "doesn’t make any immunity but is a thing people do repeatedly im led to believe) so i suppose im a 2nd class citizen with no job at the moment. my problem being once im in possession of my tools (next week) i dont really have any small enough to even consider watches......hmm i may have a 5 mill pin punch though ,hench the question about pegwood eirlier and a new question i saw someone talk about videos on watch subjects are they here somewhere?.........so i think i will stick around someone may need to know how to weld a 30mill thick plate steel back on their watch for bulletproofing reasons
    1 point
  12. Really nice. The syringe hands look more in keeping with the 40s. I would think any military pilot or field watch would have lume on the dial and hands. Yours doesnt have any. Case doesnt look anywhere near as robust as these. So Its a cyma so half decent quality, it looks quite nice the fat crown gives it a bit of character. I have a navystar with a silly little piddly crown no good for my chunky pinkies.
    1 point
  13. Hmm you're right just a bit more precise nucejoe. I think maybe a little undervalued at 10 notes, unless the gold market has completely crashed and we are now finding nuggets on the beach. Wheres my floppy sun hat and metal detector ?
    1 point
  14. Thanks . You seem like a decent bloke. I love banter with folk such as yourself. Are you staying or leaving us now. You going to repair collect what matey ?
    1 point
  15. Your question has already been answered. Here For a more precise appraisal I recommend jewelers forum. Regds
    1 point
  16. i still do \0/ and truth be told the skin probably holds better vits and nutrients than the rest of it (disclaimer i know naff all about the vits and nutrients of kiwifruit) i think the yellow one was bred naked (no hair) https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/eating-kiwi-skin they would be more likely to undervalue it if it was too hard for them to get the answer cos a guess is as good as the real answer (they havent had a good rap since the earthquakes they shafted thousands of people while being bailed out by govmnt) its not that important in the big pic
    1 point
  17. See thats the kind of detail i would never have picked up on , I like the cut of your jib young man youve got a logical perspective so would i breech this in the same way as dads watch a practice piece so to speak its a fake so im told , but im going to have to get the back off to see what the qurtz movment is in dads one (im hoping no neon swatch watch colours)
    1 point
  18. What makes me wonder is the fact that there is no „swiss made“ on the bottom of the dial. „Swiss Quartz“ indicates that the movement is swiss made only. That leaves the suspicion that SMH allowed a foreign watch producer to use the brand name „Certina“ for this kind of cheap „special order“ watches. I might be wrong…
    1 point
  19. There's no particular standard for the taper, different manufacturers definitely used different ones. I believe the closest thing to "standard" was 2 degrees.
    1 point
  20. Welcome to the forum Karl. Enjoy.
    1 point
  21. in addition to this very good paragraph it would be nice to get a background history of the watch? In other words what was its condition before you attempted to clean it. Seeing as how this is a wristwatch a very old wristwatch it probably had a plastic crystal. It will sometimes come up on pocket watches but the early crystals had an unfortunate habit of becoming yellow in color. That is a harmless side effect but it also had a habit of producing nasty chemicals which rusted things like the hands. Are your hands rusty? Often times the rust progresses farther into the dial. But it's usually nice if we get a background history and as stated above when you are disassembling it did you notice any problems. rust also is an issue with wristwatches especially old ones because they don't have the gaskets and there were more likely to be out in the weather like on your wrist when it rains. Ideally you like to figure out what the problems are before cleaning. If the problems that can be fixed you attempt to fix the problems unless of course you diagnose that cleaning will fix the problem. But the hour wheel the minute wheel and the rest of the wheels on the gear train other than the cannon pinion have to be free to turn. If they have corrosion rust or extremely bad old lubrication gluing them in place that's very undesirable. yes the unfortunate universal newbie tactic of if it doesn't work strip it down clean it again and it will somehow magically work. In other words cleaning fixes everything. If only it was that simple? then thank you for the picture because the picture gives us a serial number serial number on the website below gives us nicer looking pictures of the same watch and a little background history. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/8345234
    1 point
  22. Lol G how much editing and how many retakes are we thinking Marshall is doing ? Good morning george my Uk buddy . How the devil are you ? Remember matey, you know when you take something apart and it comes to putting it back together and you then think " oh bugger ". It happens, it happens a lot , a real lot. Have i covered that aspect ? Lol. Sorry crazy day coming up, some effort is going to be required to keep it together. This is what happens when i take a day off, apologies in advance. So fella, mate , buddy whatever you prefer, yorkshire is sunny, hope it is where you are. Photos mister, lots and lots and lots of photos during disassembly, did i mention photos ? Yes i did so let us proceed. Take a photo with every part you remove, keep the screws that came with that part with that part. Group the parts, bridges screws and components together, as groups. Learn your parts, learn them well. Dial side will more than likely be your biggest obstacle in remembering how they go. That and train wheel orientation, location, and order so please please pay special attention to these as well as taking lots of very close photos. Be very careful with all components as they are very delicate especially the pivots (the very very tiny pin point at each end of each train wheel, pallet, and balance staff approx 0.1mm. Whoa thats bloody small and fragile if you start pulling stuff around. I will give you my new quote, its very simple, very logical like me and very apt for newbies. Will help you find an issue early on and also help you identify if you caused that issue . # inspection during disassembly is as important as correction of reassembly #. So in other words take note of how things fit together and how they work together . If they dont fit during reassembly as well as they did during disassembly then you've buggered up somewhere. Stop rethink go back until youve worked it out what has gone wrong otherwise you will just compound the problem and end up breaking something. Inspect everything as you remove it, put it back take it off again that will also help you remember how it goes. Maybe not the train bridge as that can be a real troublesome monkey getting it back on, unlikely you will enjoy that experience to start with. But if you feel brave go for it, it is good practice, if you break a pivot you may be stuffed or halted with the repair. But hey youre going to break something at some point so dont worry about it, just try your best not to. But whatever you do dont rush it and DONT get frustrated when things are starting to go pear shaped. Because if you do that pear will become an inorganically grown, pestiside ridden, genetically modified monster fruit. Keep us informed of your progress and ask away at any point that you feel you need help. Everyone here is very friendly occasionally a bit crazy but mostly friendly. "Its a good kind of crazy" so no need to be affraid matey.
    1 point
  23. I can already see how skilled Marshall is after spending a few hours disassembling a movement. However I really enjoy taking things apart so I am glad i decided to get into it ! I am from the UK.
    1 point
  24. Hi kiwi. One of my favourite fruits by the way, considered as something of a super food by some. Oh yeah watch forum. What are you wanting to know matey ? Just about the model you have ? Its value ? Some googling may give you a few answers. Or about the watch company's history. Certina has been a good make since its beginnings. Founded by the kurth brothers around the end of the 19th century in Switzerland at the base of the jura mountains where a lot of swiss brands originated from. They followed a path of a good marketing strategy, sending their watches to the depths of the ocean and to the peaks of the himalayas. And recruiting famous folk such as Ali to adorn their wrists with them all in order to promote their brand. A tactic employed by other brands, more famously Rolex who were masters of it. So yes in history a very good brand. Sad to say that all this information is more or less irrelevant to the Certina brand of today as the company was taken over by the swatch group in 1983 . As you can see by my disgruntled face that fact bothers me. Maybe it was out of necessitity for a failing company or maybe it was the family just wanted out and a large lump of cash in their pockets, i suppose who can blame them. Either way another quality brand plucked from history by swatch to add to their collection , note my annoyance once more. So probably still a good watch probaby still made in the same factories made by the same people but under swatches rule. Your watch is still swiss made so of resonable quality probably on a par with Tissot possibly a bit better as im no expert on Certina's quality of this period. All this besides it was your old man's watch, its a nice watch and you have good sentiment my friend and your children will cherish it. I have my grandfather's russian sekonda, its a battered piece of shite but its my favourite watch. X
    1 point
  25. A well know brand Certina In-house mechanical movements were high grade. Quartz watches are less pricy compared to mechanicals and your watch says Swiss Quartz, doesn't say" Swiss Made" so is of inferior quality to Swiss IMO. Regds
    1 point
  26. Hi ws . It has been used traditionally since the use of low friction synthetic rubies in the escapement. You will also find it used to set the impulse jewel in place on the roller table of the balance assembly. Be careful with cleaning of these parts , ipa solvent can have a tendency to soften the schellac if left exposed to it for too long. Introducing heat to these areas softens the shellac should the jewels need to be reset.
    1 point
  27. Be careful as alcohol will dissolve it.
    1 point
  28. Shellac has been used for years and its origin might surprise you. Wikipedia is your friend.
    1 point
  29. I’ve mentioned here a few times on the forum. I use a #7 arbour and a #6 winder it works fantastic for these 7xxx main barrels. You can also use a #7 arbour and #7 winder, but the #7 winder is a little thicker for comfort. Also, you need a flat washer spacer when using a #7 winder to space the spring enough to make proper contact with the hook in the winder. And remember you need left hand (blue) winders. I use a super thin layer of 8200 on the spring prior to installation and then 8217 as a braking grease on the inside barrel. I’ve made two videos showing it working, although I can do up a detailed video if you’d like?
    1 point
  30. just adding some pics to the reason im here and thank you for having me
    1 point
  31. A pic of the keyless helps identify the caliber.
    1 point
  32. Welcome to WRT forum.
    1 point
  33. I don't know how long you have been working on Mark's courses. When I started my apprenticeship back in the early 70's it took me 5 years of learning then another 2 what they called improving so 7 years and even now being on this wonderful interesting forum I'm still learning I read something new nearly every day. grsnovi, you will never learn everything there is to know in horology. Keep at it just improving your skills will make you a better watchmaker.
    1 point
  34. I know there are folks here that know Seiko well. I can't say if it's a good place to start. Some say to start with an old pocket watch because they're bigger. That's where I started and I wouldn't say that I'm happy yet with where I am now. Starting with a working watch might be a good idea. I think those of us who watched a lot of YT videos and saw a dead watch brought back to life in 45 minutes might have unrealistic expectations...
    1 point
  35. Usually best on old discussions is to start a new discussion. Like for instance if you have a watch this giving you a problem you should start a discussion with that watch because I tend to view each watch as an individual watch which means each watch has its own unique problems A generalization of people new to watch repair is the failure to grasp the consequences of mixing and matching components. After all you can swap the screws but what about the other stuff and did you notice American pocket watches have serial numbers on all the plates and the balance wheel typically ever wonder why that is? American pocket watches are made in batches. But even in the batch all the components like the main plates are serial numbered because are manufactured to gather the ability to swap plates is somewhat problematic. The balance wheel is usually serial number to keep that but the pocket watch because it's been adjusted to fit that watch. Specifically the escapement gets adjusted to match the balance wheel looks in their once again problematic if you start swapping you can adjust for the new balance wheel providing understand how to do that. They hairspring is of the most interesting in that in modern watchmaking and I have a link typically each hairspring is matched exactly to that balance wheel by a process called vibrating. Even though the link shows how they typically do it in school and the factories the machine that does it is really really fast but still each hairspring is matched to that exact balance wheel http://www.bobinchak.com/watchmaking/2017/4/26/hairspring-week-vibrating-the-hairspring Now there is some exceptions to the rule? In the case of American pocket watches that have over coil hairsprings or basically any watch with over coil hairspring they hairspring was premade to very exacting specifications. This means that they hairspring will not match the balance wheel causing the balance wheel to have to be matched to the hairspring. So if you look at the ancient pocket watch parts books you would have been able to obtain timing screws to adjust your balance wheel to match your hairspring. The simplistic of this is if you start mixing and matching hairsprings you're going to have some interesting timing problems? Then of course there's the other problem the jumping on conclusions that may or may not be correct for the situation? In other words if you're having a timing problem with a pocket watch is it because somebody else swapped they hairspring before you or are you just having a problem because new to watch repair you failed to grasp the fine points of how the balance wheel and hairspring operate. In other words if you don't know what you're looking at you may not see it in may not grasp the problem at all. This is also where having a microscope may not actually help you if you still don't grasp what you're trying to look at. Then probably the best way to deal with this is start a new discussion with your watch. Give us a background history of where it came from what you've done to it what it's not doing I don't suppose you have a timing machine? Yes there used for more than regulating the watch their used for diagnostics anyone that's trying to repair a watch without a timing machine well does make it a lot more difficult because the timing machine can show us stuff that you can't see otherwise. Then of course we need some really good pictures of the watch you working on and if you having timing issues good pictures around the balance wheel like looking straight down looking inside ways we need to see what you're not seeing if were going to help you out.
    1 point
  36. I'm still waiting for this to become affordable.
    1 point
  37. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.
    1 point
  38. Welcome Carl. You are a braver man than me, tackling a watch of that quality! You have come to the right place for advice. Make yourself at home.
    1 point
  39. Thanks for the intro @Kalanag welcome to the WRT forum! I'm also relatively new and I'm in the middle of my first service of an Elgin Grade 313 movement. There was a time when I also wrangled mechanical engineering projects but like you, I'm also now retired. Watch projects are now something to keep me busy. Maybe when the pandemic lightens up I'll go back to travel?
    1 point
  40. Hello and welcome Karl to the fortum.
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. Shiny new dial waiting to be fitted to its shiny new sellita sw200. I know the sw200 has a date complication, but it makes more sense for me to buy these as I can use them in projects with date windows if necessary.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...